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I had to find a birthday present for good friends 80th Birthday, she has 2 King Charles Cavaliers. After a bit of hunting I found a pattern by Sue Mey of a key/leash rack. She loved it. 4 tray more puzzles. The number one I scanned from an old book a long time ago, the Plane picture I got from a colouring book and just divided it into pieces.

Well I got my rust bucket cleaned up. I removed the arms, cleaned them and lubricated the bushings. Looking a little better now. It was filthy and every steel part was rusted. Chipped paint on the stand. This saw was unused for many years. The lady selling it said it was her fathers and she kept it to make things when her kids were in scouts but said she never could figure out how to use it. It's been sitting a very long time.. All it needs is the tension rod at the rear of the saw. Hegner wants $61 for the rod and two wedges. Not gonna happen. I'll make one tomorrow. The spring is rusted but certainly usable. Hegner wants $10 for a replacement. Not gonna happen. I does run smooth as silk through the entire range of speeds. It will be a great little saw. It has taken some serious rearranging to make room for it. It's not ideal but is workable. It required moving my drill press outside the shop but that's OK.

Pattern From Sue Mey

Finished Bobscroll Guitar clock, picture not that great.

Just finished this in oak and a real horse shoe to fit my gate post.

Watching Apollo 11 In the news lately there has been a lot about the Apollo 11 landing on the moon and the attempted assault on Area 51. So I thought I'd combine both ideas into a little sign with a little twist I call "Watching Apollo 11" I don't know if there is anything "out there" but we do know the Americans were the first to land on the moon. Might make a nice gift for a 51 fanatic or any space explorer. Download the free pattern from my Free Pattern Page:

Nice find and great saw.

Congrats on the new toy. I love my 18" Hegner.

Looks like you found a new toy. You will have lots of fun making saw dust with this. I tried one and it wasn't for me. But they are nice saws and I am sure you will enjoy it. grizz

Looks good. Congrats on the baby.

And surprise, surprise.... another pattern by Botas Helder. Very cute owl. I think.

I finally put pictures away for the time being and cranked up the old scroll saw. This Nativity Scene is cut out of 3/4" Poplar and it is a Steve Good Pattern. I will probably cut a couple out of Walnut and clear coat them. Thanks for looking Jim

Well I finally got something off the saw. With table saw upgrades, some jigs to work on, outside work, I have only spent a hour or so a day a few days a week on the saw. But I have this one cut and have another picture I have been working on for my son about 1/2 cut. This a Charles Hand pattern. I did the Ornate tiger, this one seemed to go slower for some reason,, not more difficult. I like having these on a saw. I enjoy cutting them. The next one will be the ornate howl.

Made from shop scraps. About a foot wide and 10-1/2 inches tall. Real wood trim. Barn pattern by T & E designs and the tractor is a free internet pattern that was highly modified for this project. Hooks are new,

That's where I know him.. I knew that name when I read this earlier...

Bob used to be on the staff at Fox Chapel Publishing and moderated the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts forum. He recently took a position as National Sales Manager for Grobet USA. He's very in tune with the scrolling community and it's no surprise to me that he came through for you.

Just a quick note to update. I emailed again to the email address that was supplied here and got an almost immediate reply from the Grobet sales manager Bob Duncan. In less than a week, I received a gross of blades yesterday to replace the 11 dozen I still have left of the defective blades. I'm a happier camper and will continue to use Pegas products. Great/fast customer service.

I would love to make a copy of that to pass out when I am giving a class.

I also bought the Tightbond quick and thick. I like it a lot.

I am back with Flying Dutchman. I like them.

Those turned out great !

Great looking puzzles. Love the colors!

If you have the 3d file, I can take a shot at it by slicing as much as would be practical but we still need to design ways to put it together. Let me know

Frank, I have cut without the spray laquer and it's okay. Laquer is better. I finnished the back of the puzzle first with tung oil, then glued the photo to the unfinished side. There is a video on the Gwinnett site. Can't remember the guy's name but the cuts with the photo on the table side. The trick is to turn the blade upside down. Steve Good has pattern templets available and a pattern book for sale.

I presume it could be done with a CAD program with 3d capability, by drawing the object and then taking sections at intervals from back to front (or side to side) and exporting them as 2d drawings. I haven't used CAD for years, mind, so I have no idea which program would be best for this.

Feels good to make people happy. You piece have and well. Great work.

very nice work

great job

Now that is Very Cool.Awesome job!!

Love everything I see.The Puzzle will be a Big hit.

Fabulous work on all of your projects John. Happy birthday to your friend too. Marg

You did a fabulous job Roly, well done. Marg

Well done John & very colourful as well .The kids should love those.

Super nice Roly. I love the use of a real horse shoe.

That is very cool!

Nice one Roly

Very nice!

I think the Titebond equivalent is their "Quick and Thick" . I like using it. I have not tried the Weldbond yet.

I just started using the Shark Blades,I haven't been using them that long,but so far I am really impressed.I like the length of time they last,cutting 1/4 luon,The smooth way they cut.

Yep, I read about putting water in on their website and gave it a shot.. Put just a little water in it.. shook it up real good and went back to gluing the backers.. I do like the glue very much.. it sets up pretty quick and seems like a real good hold since I tried to take them apart with no luck.. I think I'll be using this stuff from now on with the backers.. and maybe even more stuff.. seems like a very good all around glue..

I use Weldbond all the time and it does have a quick set up time. It is really great to use with the Grandkids as they have no patience to wait. Also, Carole Rathman use on all her bowls. I have been using lately to glue BB to High Gloss paint and it works fantastic. See picture. I transfer to the accordion squeeze bottle and a few drops are enough. My bet is that your glue was old. If you are close to the US border visit a Canadian Tire and they carry it 2 sizes.

I started with just spray adhesive to the wood, far too much work to remove the pattern. Then I tried packing tape, better, but clear packing tape is a royal pain for me: static electricity makes it very hard to manage. Then I tried blue painters tape, still have 1/2 a roll somewhere. Okay, but takes several strips for each piece of wood. Last year I started using clear self adhesive shelf liner (Duck brand). I have paper cutters and use them to size the shelf liner to the piece of wood, one piece of shelf liner per side and done, note that the shelf liner stays tightly rolled until the backer is removed... then it relaxes and is fairly easy to apply. In my experience the shelf liner maintains good adhesion for extended periods of time and then removes easily with little or no residue (the welcome sign took several months to complete, the only issue was the paper pattern overlap not staying down, problem with the paper and not the liner). Your mileage may vary.

Hi Tony and welcome to the Village. I am not familiar with that machine. Does it have a blade already installed on it? If so, you may want to remove it and take a good look at it. There are basically two main “types” of Scroll Saw blades used with most saws. They are pin-end or pinless. you will want to figure out what kind your machine uses. (Some will accept both.) Pinless is better because it allows you to use smaller (thinner) blades because you can drill smaller holes. Blades with a “pin end” require a bigger hole to be drilled so that you can insert the larger pin-end through After that there are spiral blades and straight blades. Some people swear by spiral blades while others hate them. Most people recommend that beginners use straight blades to start. Then later after you are comfortable cutting with your saw, you can give spiral blades a try. After that, the blades come in different sizes, and “styles”. The smaller the number, the smaller the blade. So a 1 is much smaller then a 9 or 12. How big or small of a blade to use is dictated by several things including the type of wood being used, how big the hole you need to insert it through, type of cutting you are doing, and more. For most general cutting, most probably reach for a 3 or 5 but it really depends on the end user’s personal preferences. Then after “size” you will find there are some additional features like “reverse” teeth - this is where the bottom few teeth are “reversed” the thought being that by doing that, it reduces the tear out on the bottom of the piece. There are others that I won’t go into full details on like a skip tooth and more. Once you understand the basics about the blades, then you find there are different brands/manufacturers of blades. Some people use different and.various brands, like Olsen, Flying Dutchman, Pegasus, and many more. Others stick to one brand. It’s all really personal preference, you just have to decide what you prefer. you can do a quick google search and find lots of details and info about Scroll Saw blades. however, here is a Link to Steve Good’s blog where he has shared a lot of info. On blades over the years and you can find them here: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/search?q=Blades Steve shares a lot of great information plus a free pattern almost daily on his site so it’s a great place for a newbie to the Saw to look back through. Here is another article from Woodcraft’s site: https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/choosing-scroll-saw-blades and an article from Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine: http://scrollsawer.com/2017/09/06/choosing-the-right-blade/

After I changed the blade clamps, I had other issues and ultimately DeWalt replaced the whole saw. Started the new year with a brand new saw. Not taking it apart anytime soon. I will eventually replace the blade clamps with the Pegas clamps I have.

I strongly suggest you contact Vivian at: VXB.com BALL BEARINGS 2165 S Dupont Dr Unit F Anaheim CA 92806, USA Tel (714) 442-2740 Dir. (714)385-0022 Fax (714) 442-9740 http://www.vxb.com/ She has probably gone through this a thousand times but I'll try to give you as much info as I can. These are the bearing kit numbers and how many you will need to do the entire mechanism with the exception of the motor itself. I have the sleeve numbers around here somewhere. They have to be bought from Dewalt at http://www.service.dewalt.com. kit # 8616 part # HK0609 times 12 kit # 7492 part # HK0810 times 2 kit # 7189 part # HK1412 times 2 Ok, just found the sleeve info. Here it is: quantity 8 of 286294-00 short sleeve quantity 2 of 286295-00 long sleeve quantity 2 of 286430-00 Drive link sleeve quantity 1 of 286282-00 Pivot rod sleeve Good luck on your rebuild. If you haven't already watched it, I strongly recommend watching the 4 part video series that Bob Brokaw did for the Gwinnette Wood Workers. It's on Youtube.

Could you send the model over? I'd like to try this... Tom

No, it's an H.Botas pattern, although from what I see, most people cut it without the 'circle' , but it appealed to me as it was.

Thanks Marg, Tony hasn't seen it yet, he's been away for the weekend. Must admit this pattern wasn't too hard, but the hair was a bit nail biting

Does anyone know of a program that can turn a 3d object and put it into slices so it can be put together after cutting it out, like the one in the picture

Pegas blades just don't work for me. I like the FD Ultra. Lasts twice as long for me at high speed.