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Mulberry and oak wood!

Made from 1/4" plywood and some shop scrap--cedar I think, fence rescued for sure. About 8 inches tall and 11 inches long. Pattern supplied by Birchbark, slightly modified by rjR. The Tractor is a "Friday" Brand and very rare. The customer has seen a picture of it and loved it. So, I dared to then post it here. Background has a very slight torching added. Coated with a quick coat of spray poly. When I cut things like this I always try to make a template at the same time. I stacked 3; with the template and the P-C saw did excellently!

Cloud 9 Table Sign Pattern Feeling happy? This sign will help to tell the world. Nothing like being on Cloud 9. Download from my free pattern page. http://baggetta.com/pebooks/puzzle_patterns.htm

Here is new Celtic knot and my whole collection (only 3 now , but I like to cut it and plan to make more) Plywood 1/6 inch (about 4mm), stain, glossy varnish Video of making knot Celtic Knot patterns

On the rbi saws there is a place to mount the light and it easily swings back and forth and to me it is so second nature I do it automatically and do not think about it. My blade changing is like a dance and can be done in about 5 to 10 seconds.

An Alex Fox pattern. 8 1/2 X 11. 3/16" luan , 2/0 Pegas MG. Still needs 50/50 BLO.

The first commercial popcorn machine was invented in Chicago by Charles Cretors in 1885 and ever since people everywhere have been a-poppin. Make this nice little sign for your popcorn loving friends. Download free Pattern from my Free Pattern Page

Got The Beat In Me Here's a nice sign that will warm the heart of your dancer. Some people like dancing and some people just can't stop dancing to the beat that drives them. Download the free pattern and sign up for my free daily newsletter: http://baggetta.com/pebooks/puzzle_patterns.htm

Two dragon patterns I found on Google. Cut in 3/8" BB ply (I think....they were sized right and came out of my scrap pile). Pieces are stained Dark Walnut with a clear satin lacquer, backer is neon green rattlecan with a clear glossy lacquer. These two will be the front and back panel of a dice tower (basically an enclosed box with an opening at the top and bottom, and angled baffles inside so that when you drop dice in they bounce around and roll randomly, no chance of someone trying to manipulate a roll). The right-hand dragon is shorter to leave an opening at the bottom of the tower for the dice to exit. I'll post a pic of the final product when I get it finished. I couldn't really find any good step-by-step plans, so this was mostly "take a look at a bunch of pictures and then give it a solid try".

I know this has been covered before but I can't seem to find the posts. What kind of magnifying lights do you use for your scroll saw. I was being cheap and looking at the Harbor freight one for $39.99 has anyone tried this one out. Steve Good said it was pretty good for the money. I have a couple that I paid around 30.00 bucks each but they are about seventeen years old and one quit. If you don't mind let me know what you are currently using. Thank you grizz

Nice cutting! The baskets and phone holders look great.

While that's true it's difficult at best to try a variety of lights, especially if you buy on-line. Even if you purchase one at a craft store it's unlikely they will be on display to try out. So going by the experience of others is valuable. I don't think I've ever seen a comparative review in any of the woodworking mags I subscribe to?

I also have a magnifying light. Couldn't find a location for it to focus that wasn't in the way for blade changes. Use it as an expensive light mounted just above the saw. Wear a headband magnifier over a welders cap. Just the headband without the cap was uncomfortable. Like that it is portable & always use it for drilling. jerry

I have 4 pair I use these also. I have 4 pair. One at the saw, one at each of my 3 clock benches. They are inexpensive and out perform my several Optivisors. They are a real bargain and have several magnifier lens.

Well just cause I am different, I dislike having to move things when I raise the saw arm especially, I use these https://www.amazon.com/Headband-Magnifier-Glasses-Handsfree-Magnifying/dp/B0716ZCYXZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=headband+magnifier&qid=1564321188&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I also have a H F light, and works great and no problem.

Ottlite here too. Much better optics.

There is a pretty big difference in the optical quality of magnifying lamps. I had a HF and hurt my eyes. I got an Ottlite and much happier. Your eyes will tell you which one is best.

I have the HF Light and have been very pleased with it !...Excellent light for the money !

Cute. Great cutting Les. Marg

Most led magnifying lamps will work if they are 3X. 5X in my opinion is much too strong. I know because I have 3. The aforementioned Is ideal as it does have 3X. A search will find other 3X cheaper but they are less common than 5X. Takes a bit longer to find

https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/33929-slimline-led-magnifying-lamp/?tab=comments#comment-377922

If the new clamp works as Hegner claims I should not need the quick release besides where can I find a machinist?

Thanks for the heads up. Here is the direct link. https://www.fionakingdon.com/scrollsaw-patterns

I finished another rocking horse. This one is a buckskin and belongs to my daughter. She was not happy when the other one disappeared. As you can tell by the photos, the Quality Control Department at home approves of the construction and functionality of this rocking horse.

Just something to make for a stores employee lunch room.And don,t know if I showed this one yet.

If you are close enough to a sawmill you can get a carload of free "first cut" slabs that re great as backing for scrollers. When a sawmill gets a log they cut 4 sides to square up the log before cutting into studs. They are "scrap" for them. Just ask. John Old Dust

Hi Tony and welcome to the Village. I am not familiar with that machine. Does it have a blade already installed on it? If so, you may want to remove it and take a good look at it. There are basically two main “types” of Scroll Saw blades used with most saws. They are pin-end or pinless. you will want to figure out what kind your machine uses. (Some will accept both.) Pinless is better because it allows you to use smaller (thinner) blades because you can drill smaller holes. Blades with a “pin end” require a bigger hole to be drilled so that you can insert the larger pin-end through After that there are spiral blades and straight blades. Some people swear by spiral blades while others hate them. Most people recommend that beginners use straight blades to start. Then later after you are comfortable cutting with your saw, you can give spiral blades a try. After that, the blades come in different sizes, and “styles”. The smaller the number, the smaller the blade. So a 1 is much smaller then a 9 or 12. How big or small of a blade to use is dictated by several things including the type of wood being used, how big the hole you need to insert it through, type of cutting you are doing, and more. For most general cutting, most probably reach for a 3 or 5 but it really depends on the end user’s personal preferences. Then after “size” you will find there are some additional features like “reverse” teeth - this is where the bottom few teeth are “reversed” the thought being that by doing that, it reduces the tear out on the bottom of the piece. There are others that I won’t go into full details on like a skip tooth and more. Once you understand the basics about the blades, then you find there are different brands/manufacturers of blades. Some people use different and.various brands, like Olsen, Flying Dutchman, Pegasus, and many more. Others stick to one brand. It’s all really personal preference, you just have to decide what you prefer. you can do a quick google search and find lots of details and info about Scroll Saw blades. however, here is a Link to Steve Good’s blog where he has shared a lot of info. On blades over the years and you can find them here: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/search?q=Blades Steve shares a lot of great information plus a free pattern almost daily on his site so it’s a great place for a newbie to the Saw to look back through. Here is another article from Woodcraft’s site: https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/choosing-scroll-saw-blades and an article from Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine: http://scrollsawer.com/2017/09/06/choosing-the-right-blade/

I swore I was not going to start a topic but it seems like there is not much going on right now so, I thought, what the heck. I was just wondering how folks go about a project once you have decided to make something. Do most of you keep a stock of wood on hand or do you go out and buy for each project? I know those of you who do a lot of work on Baltic Birch keep a supple of that on hand but for those who are like me and do most of our work in hardwoods, do you keep a stock of it on hand or what? I don't have a lot of space so I'm limited to what I can keep. I'd really like to hear how others do it. I'm hoping this doesn't turn into a controversial subject. Let's just share our ideas.

I saw a cute poster once that said "Buying craft supplies and using craft supplies are two different hobbies" I typically have between 10-20 pieces of 1/2 inch hardwoods that are 6-8" wide and 8-16" long. I cut bigger pieces down to smaller sizes that work for most of my projects, are easy to store and are ready to go. I also typically have 10-20 square feet of 1/8" baltic birch plywood cut in to pieces. I also have a lot of scraps and random pieces that "could be useful", but I am making a better effort to use or throw those. Sometimes I find that having to make a trip to the lumber store can derail my inspiration for a project, so I like to have some stuff on hand.

Normally, I do not use plywood. I do not do fretwork. I do inlays and make toys. I purchase cedar and maple from a local building supply house, as needed. The wood I use for inlay (walnut and hard maple) I purchase about a years supply at a time. Because I am the most active member in our local woodworking club, any wood donated to the club, I receive. Because of this, Most of my wood, used for making toys, is free to me. Mostly poplar.

My system is simple. I have no room for storage of any kind. I buy 3/16" X 4 X8 Luan underlayment and Home Depot quarters it for me. I stack it in one corner of the garage. The Poplar and Oak I buy in two foot lengths. I but pine boards one or two at a time. Fortunately Home Depot and Lowe's are only about ten or fifteen minutes away. I occasionally purchase a few pieces of wood from Woodcraft when they have a sale. Woodcraft is about 40 minutes away through traffic so I don't do that often Ray, I'm in the same boat you are. Now STOP stirring up trouble! :>)

I have over the years purchase a little. Mainly I have had friends and wood workers who had wood left overs and like money if some one asks if I might be able to use it I say yes. I met a Doctor who in the 70s harvested from his wooded land to build a regular size Barn to store and work on his John Deere tractor Collection He had 10 when I met him about 2000 but took He did not know I was interested in wood working for a bout 10 years later when he saw some of my scroll sawing work and noticed I was dumpster diving in the parking lot. They were renovating the hospital and were throwing out 2 inch Oak rails doors and thinner base board. He invited me to his barn to take some of the wood he was not going to use and since he used to build large projects maybe I could use some of the wood he wouldn't. So he had a lot of walnut some oak birch and cherry so this is what I have been using since. Rough sawn but had a band saw and planner. For a project I either find a pattern and see if I got a piece of wood to fit or I pick a piece of wood and find a pattern to fit.

I have some stock on hand and it serves for many projects, but I always find buying something I don't have. Recently my daughter asked that I make pull-out shelfs for her 50's kitchen. She asked for melamine, so that meant another purchase. I picked up 2 sheets of 5/8" - 49" x 97" (barely fit in my mini van). Here are some pics of my wood storage. Some outside in an unheated garage and some in the shop. I have pw from 1/8 to 3/4. Mdf I have 1/4 - 3/4. I keep some of all of these: walnut, cherry, red and white oak, doug fir, yellow pine, maple and poplar.

I order bb in bulk, usually 45ea 12x12x1/8, or 1/4 - they come in a box easy to store hardwood I order as needed if I have an idea, not all ideas turn out worthy of being called a project, but typically 4-6 boards from ocooch at a time Poplar I get at home Depot if needed, like for kids puzzles

I think I wish I was your neighbor.

Hard to imagine this getting heated, but stranger things.... Anyway, I usually have wood on hand. My circumstances probably aren't typical. I have access to more than a thousand board feet of white oak, cherry and maple lumber that was cut from my father-in-law's farm several years ago. My BIL & I share it. If I want to use a different species, I buy it locally and usually buy some extra, so I have it for future projects. I keep some in my shop, but my space is limited. The bulk of the lumber is stored in the barn and wagon shed, which is on my in-laws property, just across the road from my house.

Thank you everybody for your input. Sounds like I might be better to spend my money on an Ottlite. I will do some research today. grizz