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A new saleman is at my insurance office so I made this for him.

Finished another batch of standing puzzles. There is a lack of Aussie animal patterns so I made up an Echidna and a Roo. 30mm thick, two coats of lacquer, cut with Olson #7 PG and FDUR #7 A koala is almost ready to be cut. The tray puzzles have pegs for little fingers and cut with a #3 FDUR, will use a #5 next time just to make it a little easier for the billy lids.

Cut From Oak and Walnut

Everybody has their own way of doing things, this is mine. I shrink wrap the puzzles with a card with a hint and the number of pieces. If I ramp up, I will include an email address and some other info. I have taken pics of the front and rear of the puzzles.

Cut From Red Oak

This is a small job I finished yesterday for a teacher friend of mine. I want to thank JimErn for doing the pattern for me. It was a pretty easy one to do. The hardest part was painting it. I'll give it to her tomorrow. She wants to hang it on her classroom door. She's going to add a bow to it.

Probably get many different answers to this.. but "for me" the rule of thumb is.. I try not to make my stacks any more than 3/4" thick.. Not saying I haven't made stacks that were 1-1/2 inch thick.. just saying I think the best results come in when i use a 3/4" thick stack than a 1-1/2" one.. Also.. the more pieces you add to the stack the slower the cutting becomes and there is a point where you can cut the same item two times and be faster than cutting it all in one stack.. an example of this is when i make backers.. I use to cut them all at the same time.. stack of 5 1/4" BB ply.. I found it's faster to cut it two times with 2-3 pieces per stack than one time with 5 pieces in the stack.. Hope this helps,

Hi All, This is a pattern by Grampa Wood is Cedar of Lebanon. I planed it down to 6mm. The smell from this wood is amazing. I used a Olsen 2/0 blade for the pattern changing to a No5 for the fishing line. It is a great pattern but I managed to mess it up.

Asked for a pattern for this a couple of weeks ago and @CATRKcame through, thanks Richard. Went with both horses for the cut, just looked better. Stack cut two 1/8" BB ply and used Sawbird #3 Ultra reverse and #2/0 spiral, 256 cuts. Approx. 14 X 15". Jeff

I find it weird they had to do that, because as Kevin wrote the Pegas is a Pegas because of their clamps. I never had to look under my Ex table to clamp the bottom of the blade in, and I am a bottom feeder so I didn't do as routinely as the top feeders do. I now have a Seyco ( an Ex with a larger table) that I have put the Pegas clamps on and I do not have to look to clamp the bottom of the blade. Easy to do by feel alone. And the Pegas clamps are nice. When Heppnerguy (Dick) visited last he checked out my Pegas clamps and ask me to tell him honestly, why they were better than the original Seyco/Excalibur clamps.... I had to think a few seconds and all I could really come up with is they are such a pretty red!

We have a big boat (33ft cabin cruiser) that we have on Lake of the Woods, Ontario. Love going to the various islands to anchor overnight, always a different view. I have turned a few of these into puzzles.

of what wood looks good after sanding and finishing, needs some work. First double inlay red cedar base, basswood walls, curly maple with red cedar and red oak inlay and though not shown, hunter green flocking inside EDIT: I finally figured out what has been bothering me about this pic, the wall of the box is basswood, basswood is white. not being the sharpest ac in the box I took the pic on a gloss yellow backing I had, photoshop to get rid of the yellow back drop and just missed that the white basswood had picked up the yellow reflection. Sorry about that

I think it was 2 Summers ago I took my wife on a day trip to get out of the hot desert. This is where we went, Mount Rainier in Washington. Such a beautiful sight! I see by the date on the picture it was 3 Summers ago. Time flies!

Just thought I would share my latest project. Made this out of 1/4 inch oak plywood for my daughter.

One of my favorite movies. And I spell it wrong. lol. Maybe I’ll just cut the name off. Pattern is by Neptune from the SSV library

This is an older one, but I have cut this into a very difficult puzzle before. Printed it 11X14 and sold it in a quart canning jar and called it "A Quart of Peppers". The other was shot the same day, but I have yet to puzzle it.

On the D&D site when you order pegas blades it tells you what drill size to use for that blade, as well as the measurement for the blade. Since that is all I am using right now, I am not sure about niqua (flying dutchman) but I would expect that is there too, or if not on the WTB site

Thanks for this. I never knew that the makers had there own sizes ?? I will either need to use 1 make of blade or measure every blade I use. There is a post somewhere else on the forum where someone wants a drill chart to suit his blades ?? looks like that will be a long job. I must go out the shed and see what my blade sizes look like, I am using Pegas and Niqua at the moment but there may still be some Olson. Thanks again for this. Don W

I agree completely as the price is way to high.

I found out the same way you did John. It's surprising that some of the smaller numbered blades are thicker than the larger number blades. I know they give you the thickness in the chart but I never was good with math anyway, so just trail and error for me. we are never to old to learn I guess. grizz

This is true..... I find Pegas to be the thinnest....

Finished today Butterfly clock Bob scroll pattern, and phone stand is Steve good pattern

This is a Charles Dearing design. I got it finished up this morning. I’ve been trying to “make” this pattern for a long time and just kept falling short. I gave it to Charles and he made it happen. One of these days I should learn how to make patterns. I think his version turned out awesome.

I'll kick this one off. Most folks I talk to always gush about beach vacations, cruises, sand and palm trees, Hawaii.....they can have em. Send me to the mountains! Forests, rivers, lakes, waterfalls, the peace and quiet of a shady trail with nothing but the sound of the wind to disturb the afternoon (and the occasional curse as my clumsy ass trips over a root). My wife is of the same mind, although she enjoys the beaches more than I do. Thus a Steve Good pattern, not quite finished yet (I'm juggling three or four projects at the time), but still....is mountains. Is good.

I can accomplish the same thing on my 14" bandsaw, with a 1/8" blade and the carter guide.

I have a Hegner Saw. I have never stack cut before. Is there a general rule on how many layers you can cut at one time? I am thinking of 1/4 baltic birch. 2 or 3 layers? Thanks

That is why I do not make toys or anything for kids. Today is a sue happy society. I will raise that age number when listing mine but they are not for kids anyway. Good idea to include something because the pieces are small.

And I can not understand why the price always has been high on this tool. Maybe they are not mass produced to help bring the cost down or what. There really is no proprietary parts used in them. As shown they have been copied and home made.

I also try and not go over 3/4 inch. In my experience my blade tends to wander to much if it is much thicker than that.

I don't have many suggestions, except to say that you might want to divide your space between dust creating machines and a dustless area for final work and finishing. My basement shop is divided this way and it allows me to work on other projects in one space while others are drying in the "clean space". Aside from that, virtually everything is on wheels except my mini lathe, chop saw, Scroll saw, and work bench. Hope this helps!

Interesting chart, I would think that the current would go up as the motor strains to maintain it's designed flow rate. This could turn into another entirely different discussion. My thinking is if you restrict the flow on your shop vac you can here it working harder to to maintain its suction. If the motor slows down you don't get the same velocity or flow.

Two things come to my mind here and I've said this in various replies over the years both here and on facebook.. and also not trying to toot my own horn.. First thing is.. Just because they are well known scroll sawers doesn't mean they are professional and proficient at scroll sawing.. ( truly nobody is ) especially across all brands of saws.. They are well known because they aren't camera shy and put out videos and content, are in magazines, and they have time to go to these big events and become well known etc etc.. Most of these well known folks are well known because they take time to " get well known " by playing around with putting videos and content up all the time.. and many of them are designers.. they want to be well known to get people to buy their patterns etc.. So they don't spend " most " of their time scroll sawing.. they spend most of their time putting content out there and new patterns to get well known within the scroll sawing community.. I don't have any issue with inserting the blade in my Excalibur now that I upgraded to the Pegas clamp.. which is basically a Pegas saw.. The Hawk IS much easier but I am proficient with either saw as well as the DeWalt and old quickset II Delta blade clamps.. Though I haven't used the old Delta in a couple years so I might fumble for the first couple blades changes etc.. but that muscle memory will come back.. Just to give an example and not picking on Rolf.. But a while back when I was talking about putting the hour meters on my saws.. he mentioned he had nearly 400 hours I believe is what he said.. He's own that G4 since 2005.. He test patterns for the magazines etc. and is a ( in my opinion a well known scroller ).. I got nearly 100 hours on my new Hawk.. at that same time I put hour meters on all of my saws.. The Excalibur is around 60 hours now.. the older Hawk Ultra has about 35 hours and the oldest Hawk is only around 10 hours.. I cannot remember when I put these meters on the saws.. but it was right around the time I got my New Hawk delivered.. which was I think March.. I haven't cut nearly as much this year as I have in the past either because other family things have been taking up some of my time and I'm trying to learn this CNC.. Anyway, This is just my 2 cents worth. and hopefully I haven't offended anyone in what I've said.. Again.. not tooting my horn.. just making a point.. They are well known not because they're professionals.. but because they always putting content out there for people to watch..

It is coming Slowly but I am happy with it In my introduction topic amazingkevin said that the eyes are the hardest so best to do first. I did them this morning and I am quit happy with it. After walking wit the woofers gonna make a few holes more

Nice cutting on that Jeff. Love the horses.

Love the inlay. I have to try that again.

Those came out great. Love the eyes.

I do the same.. I also add a choking hazard for small children paper in my wrapped puzzle too..

Those turned out great !

Very Nice. Have my Sister In-law's Xmas pressy sorted now.

A big WELCOME from me. Roly

Amazing hold your breath cuts!!!

This was designed by my Good Friend Marcel who Lives in Holland. I have already cut many of Alex Fox's Patterns like this and Enjoy them. Color scheme was decided mostly by my Wife. I did help some. LOL Let me know your thoughts...........Thanks Danny :+}

Beautiful work there!

I've always been a fan of Sherlock Holmes and the many other fictional detectives. I thought a nice table sign glorifying this type of fiction would be in order so I came up with Smart Sleuth (think Nancy Drew) Might make a nice present for a movie for TV fan of mysteries. Coated this simulation with a Koa veneer. The image has a perspective to it, but the pattern is pretty straight forward and easy. Free pattern download: http://baggetta.com/pebooks/puzzle_patterns.htm

so far we have a winner!!!

Way to go.Inspire us to try our dreams.

Right nice to see. love your work here.

One can do almost anything by hand but a Sand-Flee type tool makes it easier. One use I have found is with boxes. When I make small boxes with finger joints or dovetails it works great to sand the corners down. I spent maybe $50 to make my sander as it was wood and hardware store stuff. Could it be done by hand....certainly. However, as I get older and with arthritis, I do less work like that by hand.

When I got my scroll saw a few weeks ago, I imagined that by now I'd be turning out interesting, artistic pieces of a standard that would demonstrate my natural ability and flair... Anyway, it hasn't quite turned out like that! Not only is scrolling not as easy as it looks, life's got in the way and I've not had much time to devote to it. I have had to do a few DIY jobs around the house. For these, I've used my saw whenever possible, and it's a superb addition to the workshop. For instance, today I needed to cut some pieces of pine to fill gaps in a door frame, where locks had been moved. I cut a 5/16" thick piece to 1" x 10", and then ripped that along its length, to make two pieces each about 1/8" thick. There is no way I could have done that with any other tool in my possession, and it was quick, fairly easy and after a bit of sanding and planing, reasonably accurate.

What a cutie! Sweet.