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Centered some of my creations on the wall above my Sleep Number Bed... I very much like the looks of it...

After getting the idea from this forum, I made my first phone stand and after showing it to my friend he wanted it. I gave it to him and am working on more. Made of 3/8" cedar.

I may be a retired Air Force veteran but I'm also a tremendously proud Navy Dad... My eldest daughter is a Navy Corpsman stationed at Camp Lejeune in Jacksonville, NC... This little gem was designed by Steve Goode and I blew it up from 7 1/2" in diameter to 14" in diameter... I put a normal ball cap in the picture for size reference...

One of my favorite movies. And I spell it wrong. lol. Maybe I’ll just cut the name off. Pattern is by Neptune from the SSV library

Finished another batch of standing puzzles. There is a lack of Aussie animal patterns so I made up an Echidna and a Roo. 30mm thick, two coats of lacquer, cut with Olson #7 PG and FDUR #7 A koala is almost ready to be cut. The tray puzzles have pegs for little fingers and cut with a #3 FDUR, will use a #5 next time just to make it a little easier for the billy lids.

This is a small job I finished yesterday for a teacher friend of mine. I want to thank JimErn for doing the pattern for me. It was a pretty easy one to do. The hardest part was painting it. I'll give it to her tomorrow. She wants to hang it on her classroom door. She's going to add a bow to it.

If you want minimal dogears on your shrink wrapped puzzles or any other odd shaped pieces, find a local source for Syfan MVP film. If you use an impulse sealer like JohnB, buy centerfold film like he uses. Either 45 or 60 gauge will do the trick.

Cut From Oak and Walnut

I am sure what I am going to say will bring out hand wringers but this type of pattern is really, in my own opinion, a pattern designed to use spiral blades such as a 2/0 or #1. So far you are doing a great job with those big blades but do shop around and try to get a variety pack of blades from Flying Dutchman, Pegus, and Olsen. That will give you some different sizes to work with and find the one that you can use the best. Also if you find the cutting going to aggressive slow your speed down and get used to the feed rate, not to fast, not to slow, just let the blade do its thing. You are off to a great start and be sure to show us the finished project! Erv

It is coming Slowly but I am happy with it In my introduction topic amazingkevin said that the eyes are the hardest so best to do first. I did them this morning and I am quit happy with it. After walking wit the woofers gonna make a few holes more

I made this for friends who will be celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary in November. Pauline and Dave are very musical and have been members of the best choirs (both classical and barbershop) in Canada. In Dave's case, it's the best in the world since his choir won the World Barbershop championship about three years ago. The word design comes from Keith Fenton and the music on each side is my modification of a Steve Good design. The dark wood is Roasted Ontario Hard Maple and the light wood is Padauk.

Everybody has their own way of doing things, this is mine. I shrink wrap the puzzles with a card with a hint and the number of pieces. If I ramp up, I will include an email address and some other info. I have taken pics of the front and rear of the puzzles.

Thanks for the kind comments and input. T As to price: I live in a low income and low cost of living area and I sell at our local farmers market, so the price needs to be low in order to sell. The wood is scraps, so no cost there. I can make this in about six minutes. I plan to offer it for $6. It is well worth $10 though. I sell all my stuff pretty cheap in order to move a lot of it. This means I get to do my self funding hobby and don’t need to just burn the stuff I make. I spend about forty hours a week in my workshop so I go through a lot of wood. Much of what I make I give away. (Toys for local hospitals and other charities) Some of the other phone holders I am making, I am using images already made by me when doing inlays. I have been giving/throwing away those so this is another way to use them.

Melanie, I have them listed for $15. Maybe thirty minutes to complete and use up scraps.

I just receive this link in a Wood Magazine e-Newsletter. Maybe it will be of some planning help; https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/shop-organization/shop-layout-grid-and-tool-templates By the way, my shop is the size of a one car garage, around 20' x 15.5', heated and cooled, attached toilet, refrig and computer nearby, and I am very happy with it. Nice if it was bigger so I didn't have to move tool around to do what I want to do, but I'll take it,,, well I have for 38 years. I have built a 17' kayak and a 12' sailboat hull in it. May have had to open the bathroom door at one end and the back exterior door at the other end, to plane and rip the stringers and gunwales.

Okay, I am quit new and as I said in my introduction topic I bought a pattern from Sue Mey. Of course I picked one I really liked Yvonne already told me it is still a bit to hard for me and of-course I know she is right but ....wel....yeah ...how can I say it I just want to try because it doesn't have to be finished today I had a very old machine before and on that I did made some things as also the one on the first photo. I recently just had a new machine were of course I wanted to do the new pattern on. BUT WOW, I never experienced before how fast and easy the balde goes trough the would. So hahaha yes I already made some mistake but I go on easy and with patient just to get the feeling of the machine and who knows it maybe does turn out quit nice with the mistakes Photo 2 is my little start and mistakes

Hi Miran, You are doing a great job on a good pattern, Can't wait to see it finished, Good luck! Bob

Nice phone stand, I like the design better on these than the tablet stands I used to make.. Though the ones I made was collapsible for two reasons I can think of is.. easier shipping and easier for people to pack and take on a vacation.. Just a thought for those that maybe try to sell these... toy around with a design to make it compact.. The phone ones are not nearly as large as the tablet ones I had made in the past.. I got my tablet designs from Steve Good.. I stopped selling them because I had issues getting them to sit level.. either the board was cupped or my cutting was off.. and I didn't want to sell a teeter totter, LOL I would think the phone stand being smaller in size might make it easier to make with the collapsible style.. Melanie, @meflick If you start a etsy shop this is a good time of the year to get in on it.. the holiday shopping will be kicking up and usually an uptick in sales start once the back to school stuff is done and summer vacations stop taking up everyone's extra cash.. Then all heck breaks loose the week of Thanksgiving and hold on from there to the years end... Don't ponder too much longer, People that start selling during the off season get discouraged and many leave.. especially for the new shops that haven't built up a following yet.. it'll be crickets for most shops during the off season for the first few years.. Lot's of shops are only open in the fall.. then they let their stuff expire until next season.. How big are these? I could maybe give some shipping tips..

very nice job

About the only time I worry about trying to match the drill bit to the blade is when making veining cuts. The closer the entry hole is to the size of the blade, the less obvious it is. Otherwise, I let the size of the fret dictate the size of the drill. I typically use 3 different sizes; 1/16" for most frets where there is plenty of room, a little bitty one (#56, I think) for most small frets and an itsy, bitsy, teenie one (#72, I think) for anything that is too small for the other 2 sizes.

I like that one Jim. Can I ask what price you plan to sell them for? I know @Denny Knappen also made some and put in his shop As well. Maybe he can share what he is selling them for as well. What I have seen online, they sell for $20-$25 (or listed for that anyway. ) I bought both the sets from online and showed them here before. Enjoyed making them and then started designing my own. I need to get photos of them to share. I have given several away, and people always ask about them. I keep tossing around idea of trying to sell some or not. considering an Etsy shop. Kevin, @kmmcraftshas planted the seed. Just trying to decide if I really want to go there. also, trying to decide exactly what I would sell in shop. I also do other craft type items and tossing around ideas in my head. Need to decide and “get off the pot” as my dad used to say. It’s the whole shipping that keeps me hesitant. Maybe some of you guys who ship can give some helpful info.on that. I was considering starting with a local show this Fall at a college homecoming and talking to a local store that sells handmade items and going from there. Just need to take the plunge.

Just ordered some spiral blades Keep going like this and when they arrive I will sure try them. Thank you very much

Great minds! That is exactly what I was thinking.

@JohnB, I'm with you on that. Sometimes 1/16" is big and the smaller (micro) bits are used but sometimes a pattern comes up that needs a few very,very fine cuts (like the one I am doing at present) and then I use the smallest blade I have and drill half a dozen holes at a time then cut, rinse and repeat, until the project is finished.

@don watson Don, I never worry about the drill bit size. I find that 1/16" (1mm) suffices for 95% of the time. I do have a few sizes of the Micro (Numbered) bits but only need them rarely. The other advantage of using larger bits is I can find the hole to thread the blade through

My husband would like that one and he wouldn't even notice the spelling mistake. Well done. Marg

G'day Miran, I have an Impulse sealer and a roll of shrink plastic. The plastic comes folded in half on the roll, effectively the bottom or one side of the package is preformed. I place the item between the folded plastic, seal the other 3 edges and using a heat gun shrink it tight. You can use bags, but they are quite a bit dearer and they leave a lot of material bulged up around the edges. I like to show my puzzles standing. The rolls of plastic make it possible to wrap larger items.

We have all done that one at one time or another; I do NOT mean the nice portrait, I mean the spelling goof!

Pegas balde holders ?? Is anyone with a ex21 gone to these blade holders is it worth the money ?? tell me all about them if you wish

I've been using a #68 for nearly everything. It is seldom that I use anything larger than a #5 blade. But then I cut very few things greater than 3/4". Others may have different needs.

I just find that using a #1 blade makes it rather difficult to stay on the lines and a #3 or #5 , I can still cut some pretty close fret and it is easy to stay on the lines at the same time. Everyone is different and that is what make things in this form of art, interesting to me Dick heppnerguy

By the way, 'MOST' home wire is 12 gauge. 'MOST' homes have 15 or 20 amp breakers. that breaker will normally be used for a group of wall outlets, not expecting all to be pulling 15 amps. If something is pulling more than a separate breaker is put in, and the right wire gauge run for that item. IE dryer, furnace, AC. Be careful running your own line. Its worth having a lic electrician to do it. If its too much, you may be able to help pull wire, drill holes and drop the cost as a helper. When a house sells and its found a line wasn't run right, wrong gauge, no permit, its going to cost again to pull it and have a electrician run it. For extensions, there are charts on the amount of amps and the length. The extension cord itself acts as resistance and starts heating up. To much pull and its a melted extension or fire. Especially electric heaters which are pulling 15 amps already. Any work I do I use a 10 gauge extension cord. Its normally 12 gauge in the wall, so a 10 gauge is one size larger. Since my past profession was electrical engineer, I would be very embarrassed starting a fire with an extension cord, not knowing my wire gauges. RJF

Nice job and you have every reason to be proud of your daughter. Thank you for your service in the Air Force and thanks to your daughter for her service in the Navy. I need to find that on Steve’s site. My husband has a partner who’s son just graduated from high school in May and has joined the Navel Academy. Been there about 6 weeks or so I think. They finally get to see him this weekend I think. I appreciate everyone for their service and sacrifice for ours and the world’s protection.

Still got room in front of the toilet and under the bed. RJF

I've been scrolling a little over two years I think. I recently purchased a 14V Hegner and you have to load the lower clamp first.I don't think I know how to top feed with it. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something.

Great cutting. I love the animal puzzles. What is the finish? Looks splendid.

I'm envious of all your space Ray. You have 117 sq ft. My little 8 X 14 is only 112 sq ft, You are one lucky fella.

Lovely work, John, Thanks for making the children's day and thanks for sharing with us. God Bless! Spirithorse

Now that's funny! Great job cutting...but funny! Maybe scroll a Humpback breaching behind him.

Not to be a know-it-all but I find this sort of amusing. It's really so easy. I have no problem inserting a new blade in my EX. I just put it in the top clamp first. I lower the arm and guide the blade through the table hole and down to where it is in front of the blade clamp. I can feel the blade and it's not difficult to push it into the slot in the clamp. I might have to open the slot up a tad but it's not a big thing. I put the blade into the slot, pull down a bit and close the clamp. Now, I can release the top clamp and go on with my cutting. I don't understand why anybody would have to get down on their knees to do this. I don't think any of these folks are as proficient as they claim to be. JMHO!

For the record, I struggled with the Hawk clamps when I first got my Hawk.. as well as all those other saws.. everyone has a starting point.. as I said.. not everyone is proficient on every brand and style of saw.. Let each of these guys run the saw for say 100 hours.. then see if they still struggle with blade changes.. I wasn't dis-crediting any of the " well known" sawers.. my point was.. they do not have the experience in running those saws for nearly enough hours to be proficient.. I understand what you're saying though.. promoting a saw and not knowing how to use the said saw proficiently makes the saw look bad.. In promoting this saw at these shows... They should have someone demonstrating the saw that is experienced in running one so to make it "Look" easy to use.. I sure wouldn't have wanted the cameras aimed at me when I first started using the Hawk.. Most of the talking would have needed bleeped out, I couldn't for the life of me get used to those round barrel clamps... or the blade Tension.. Kept breaking blades or having them pop out.. Mind you.. I was using a very well used saw too.. so not all of it was my fault.. it turned out to have a worn tension cam, wedge.. and other parts.. Now on the same saw.. I can reach around the front angle bracket and insert that lower barrel clamp without bending down to look.. I also have at least 200 hours run time on that first old Hawk I have.. I don't think you've offended anyone.. most folks won't reply to this thread because they don't want to spark a flamed thread or get involved in one.. You and I will stand our ground on our own believes.. which many times differ between us.. everyone else grabs the pop corn

And I can not understand why the price always has been high on this tool. Maybe they are not mass produced to help bring the cost down or what. There really is no proprietary parts used in them. As shown they have been copied and home made.

I also use shrink wrap for my puzzles. I also add a bag with a zip closure to keep the pieces in after they are unwrapped.

Asked for a pattern for this a couple of weeks ago and @CATRKcame through, thanks Richard. Went with both horses for the cut, just looked better. Stack cut two 1/8" BB ply and used Sawbird #3 Ultra reverse and #2/0 spiral, 256 cuts. Approx. 14 X 15". Jeff

I found out the same way you did John. It's surprising that some of the smaller numbered blades are thicker than the larger number blades. I know they give you the thickness in the chart but I never was good with math anyway, so just trail and error for me. we are never to old to learn I guess. grizz

This is true..... I find Pegas to be the thinnest....

Looking very good!

Your cutting is excellent. The thing is you see when you miss a line but when the pattern is removed you can no longer see it and everything looks perfect. Don't be hard on yourself, you've done great!

Painters' tape will also make it easier to remove the pattern afterwards, even on thin, fragile pieces (just pull slowly). Keep it up, every hole cut adds a bit to your experience level! And wolves....they rock!

Yes, I designed this and all of my patterns. If you look closely, the train is stopped, and there is a man walking toward the deer to help rescue the trapped fawn.