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So this is my first time cutting this pattern. The whiskers are so easy to break. I'm thinking on my next go around I will make them just a little bit wider. I still need to sand and paint or stain this one. This is cut out of 3/4" Poplar and is a Steve Good pattern. Thanks for looking. Jim

Finished a few stand-up Koala puzzles, I think I'll stick to the mum and joey. Also another couple of tray puzzles

Had a visit from the fire department for burning my designer firewood one evening. No ticket but a few comments about how well it was decorated. Ended with a don't do that again.

After getting the idea from this forum, I made my first phone stand and after showing it to my friend he wanted it. I gave it to him and am working on more. Made of 3/8" cedar.

Okay, if you could all see me now I bet you will laugh. I finished my sawing and now try to peel the pattern of. And let me say....it goes even slower then the sawing I bet you all know a better way then just peeling thirds of inches of

Though it did not went all how I wanted I am quit happy with the result for the first time I wanted to use keys as hooks but the first one already broke by bending it so....next time better and just used some normal hooks so that I could show you all the results. I really wanted to show you all because it was fun to make it and had great help from all the tips I got here And we already have it in use

I made this for friends who will be celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary in November. Pauline and Dave are very musical and have been members of the best choirs (both classical and barbershop) in Canada. In Dave's case, it's the best in the world since his choir won the World Barbershop championship about three years ago. The word design comes from Keith Fenton and the music on each side is my modification of a Steve Good design. The dark wood is Roasted Ontario Hard Maple and the light wood is Padauk.

If anyone is looking for a challenge, here it is! I think there was 2 million pilot holes, give or take a million, at least it felt like it was that many! It is a great pattern, but it is a tough one to cut. This was made for a friend to raffle off to raise money for the national wildlife turkey federation. I left the plastic on the frame for shipping.

Thanks all for the great tips

I usually print my patterns onto full-page shipping labels. No tape, nothing. I just use a heat gun and they lift right off after a bit of warming. And the residue that is left behind sands off very easily.

Well this may sound odd.But I use Carbon Paper.

All of the ways described work well. I have used all of them over the years. I tried the contact shelf paper with the pattern attached with spray glue on top of that and found it to be by far the easiest to remove. I can remove it all in one piece even on detailed portraits. I have used all the methods described, but now do the shelf paper almost exclusively unless I am stack cutting some project where a wrap of tape holds it together in the stack also. I am using shelf paper from the dollar store at this time, but not sure it holds quite as well as name brand, but it has not failed yet. I can just tell it doesn't have the same adhesion. Been doing intarsia and smaller scrolling with it. I don't think I would trust it on a detailed portrait like I have done with name brand.

Pauls advice is good. The mineral spirits will make it easy to remove the pattern. Many years ago I was a little misunderstanding about the tape thing to, what relief when I finally figured out how it worked. But then I always learn things the hard way. grizz

Either way works fine, it is personal preference. I do it both ways, depending on which person I am on a certain day...... You can also use the Mineral Spirits to wipe off the residue glue left on the wood from the adhesive.

Thanks, I used spray adhesive and direct on the wood. I do understand from this I better can use the tape before I put on the pattern instead of the other way around like I did now

Take all the mistakes and miscuts and nail or glue them together. Seen enough tacked together shapes they call art. Just make sure to sign it, charge a really high price and call it a one of a kind original work. RJF

Ditto what Paul said, except a fingernail works as well as an x-acto knife and there is little chance of gouging the wood

This is a little fun project you might want to make for a child you know. It is a pencil holder in the shape of a Surface-To-Air Missile launcher. Doesn't really launch the pencils (missiles) but makes them readily available. Will hold 3 missiles (and is modifiable). This is an easy project so I made a video for you to follow rather than put all the details here. You can view the video and download the free pattern on YouTube on my Channel. https://youtu.be/VmggimW7leQ

I'm now back on my saw after my run in with C.A Glue. I took some time off so I could heal, I also have been busy with the dogs as the 'Competition Season' is in full swing so haven't had much time to do anything else. My foot is now so much better, my GP gave me some Silver Sulfadiazine cream and a couple of dozen dressings, (fortunately we don't pay for treatment) he says it will take at least 3 months to heal fully. Here is the progress from day 1 to now. To be honest it looked better on day 1 than it did a week later,

This past Saturday, I scrolled all day working on various projects. I use a wooden bar stool. I’ve used it for years without any problem but this time, my back and shoulders were hurting. I decided I needed a more comfortable seat to scroll. So, I went on Amazon and found a nice drafting chair. I told my wife what I was doing and she said “ oh, let me get it for you for Fathers Day”. Well, it came today! It took about 15 minuets to put together, but man, is that chair comfortable! I ordered it without armrests as I figured since I was using it for scrolling, I wouldn’t use them anyways. I was worried the backrest would be useless, but it actually supports my back while I’m scrolling. Definitely a game changer!

Hawk makes benchtop legs.. They are just short legs to use on a benchtop.. but I have no idea how the cost is.. and if you're going to do that you could just make short wood legs or build your own stand and make it work..

Brilliant, well done. Would never have known it was your first.

try a bike seat, they are expensive but worth it. I do 500-600 miles a day on it at times. https://www.jpcycles.com/product/800-325/mustang-wide-vintage-solo-seat?mrkgcl=444&mrkgadid=3298931668&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=465824127318_product_type_motorcycles_product_type_seats_and_backrests_product_type&utm_campaign=Google+Shopping++Manufacturer+Intent+-+Seats+and+Backrests&product_id=800-325&utm_content=pla&adpos=1o3&creative=278823731736&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-b7qBRDPARIsADVbUbXxw80RohiUWgYXkwejqYVwwPwhP7wi6ZpfeXEFJDKwBLV8omfwAWoaAqtjEALw_wcB or google for motorcycle solo seat - roadking or electra glide

I know of bottom feeder in fishing terms which one is a catfish. RJF

When I first bought my EX, I could not keep the blade in the holder at all! I was ready to quit. The Pegas blade holders fixed my Saw. I think it is their best product.

I use the ‘contact’ shelf paper and self adhesive labels. No problems. No tape, no sticky spray. I only use the spray when the pattern is too big for the labels.

I bought a drafting stool like that from Office Depot recently, it is very high. It took some adjusting the saw and the stool to find a comfortable position. My husband is VERY patient. I have to use a box to put my foot switch. He even helped me position it, with me in it, and locked the casters. Now I can swing around, hop out, and hop back in and swing back and saw. Very high.

It went for $100.00 last night

When spray gluing the pattern to the wood use a repositionable glue onto the back of the pattern not the wood. No painters tape or anything else needed except for thick wood 3/4" and over, when clear packing tape over the pattern to prevent the cut burning. I have used this system for over 20 years and it's never been a problem getting the pattern off of the wood.

I have not had good luck with shipment of scroll saws via UPS or FEDEX. They are pretty rough in handling. Although the price is right, the first seller (ToledoSells) does not accept returns. I'm on Home DePots watch list for the saw and hopefully it will be available. I see that my local Lowe's offers the same saw but over $400. Lowe;s used to honor Home Depots price but probably not in this case as it is presently unavailable from Home Depot. bb

Some glues designed for scroll sawing come off easily, sometimes before you have even finished sawing. Other glues can hold too good. Can you tell us exactly what glue that you used? If you can't peel it off and it's on flat work, have you tried just sanding it off? Maybe a paint thinner, applied to the pattern, would dissolve the glue bond. I mostly do 3D scroll sawing and use regular stationary store rubber cement to attach my patterns. For most of what I make, the pattern comes off with the scrap wood, so I never have a problem removing it, but paint solvents do dissolve rubber cement. Charley

Glad healing for you Brenda. We need some updated pics on those puppies by the way.

WOW! So glad it is healing. That does not look like fun, for sure. Gives me new caution about CA glue. I have always been careless with it.

I don't know if this helps you at all or not.. Meaning you was hoping to get one in store? This one is priced right anyway.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delta-Scroll-Saw-1-3-Amp-20-In-Cast-Iron-Table-Blade-Tensioning-Lever/264413632691?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 AND For those that rather shop Amazon.. https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-40-694-Variable-Scroll/dp/B00IK8DIU8?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAIENXGIYD2VI6D6IA&tag=axiontool-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00IK8DIU8

uhm does that stay on well? Because with my work, my woofers and kids I don't have the time to sroll 1 pattern just in 1 or 2 days. It is really a hobby were I take the time for when I can and want. So sometimes it has to stay on for days

Looks good, Can you cut it the other way on the board, that way the whiskers will be long grain and shouldn't break near as easy.

I think we've all done that Brenda, me more than once. What I do now when I've had a bit of a layoff from the saw is to do some practice cuts before starting a new project, just to get the feel of the saw once again. I hope that you're going to cut it again.

Well you know where you went wrong so go out there and do the same pattern just don't make the same mistake. Marg

I rebuilt mine about four years ago. It was not worn out I believe the motor cam bearing gave out and Ray at Seyco actually sold me the whole linkage kit and a new motor cam that has the bearing in it. When I took it apart there were two very slim shims in behind the motor cam. I missed putting those back in and the bearing would just vibrate out of the housing. A quick call to Ray at Seyco and he figured out what it was. He said they really should not have been in there but some saws did have them. It actually ran so much smoother after I rebuilt it. Still running strong although I use my Seyco the most now. It was not a cheap rebuild. Seems like it was close to a couple hundred bucks if I remember right., grizz

I just acquired another Hegner this evening. A Maxicut 18. It was advertised on "Letgo." A friend pointed it out to me Sunday. The seller said to see him on Monday after 5PM. I texted him for an address but never received an answer.Tuesday evening I texted him again and asked, "If still available I'm still interested." He returned the text and said he would be home this evening. I found him in a mobile home park. Very nice park but his back yard looked like Sanford and son. I walk with a cane and I had a terrible time getting into the back yard. I was expecting a rust bucket but was pleasantly surprised. Everything is in great shape except the exposed steel parts. I can take care of that tomorrow. Great buy at $300.

Nice addition Jim. I just turn my phone upside down so the charge cord is on the top.

How did you put it on? Spray adhesive and stuck to the wood or did you put blue painters tape on first. If it is glued directly to the wood with a spray on adhesive, wipe it down with mineral Spirits and is should lift right off. If I use the painters tape, I use a flat end X-acto blade to work it up.

I have altered the stand a bit in order to be able to charge the phone while in the stand.

I cut some thick puzzles from Judy Peterson from 3/4" material. I tried to use blade thickness to determine how tight the pieces fit together. While the thickness was important the type and brand of blade and how the teeth are set was also important. For this use, the width of the saw kerf was critical and you can get different width needs from blades with the same thickness.

That's a dilemma Ray. The 18" Hegner has turned out to be in literal perfect condition. The rust was only very light surface rust. Brass bristles on the Dremel removed all of it. The only thing missing was the table insert which I ordered last night. The Hegner is such a nice heavy machine and the Hawk is set up just perfectly for me and is smooth. I think the 14" will have to go. Hard to do since it works so great. The Hawk has the nice big table and the Hegner works so well too.

I myself am working on that... I want one chucked up with my 1-3/8 forstner bit. can't tell you how many times a day / week that I'm swapping out the mini chuck to the forstner bit.. then back to the mini chuck.. I've been saying for a couple years that I want at least two more drill press's.. Wouldn't mind a press set up with a sanding mop too.. LOL

I've been using a #68 for nearly everything. It is seldom that I use anything larger than a #5 blade. But then I cut very few things greater than 3/4". Others may have different needs.

I do the same as Bill. I have each drill bit chucked up in their own mini drill chuck so they are always ready to go.

About the only time I worry about trying to match the drill bit to the blade is when making veining cuts. The closer the entry hole is to the size of the blade, the less obvious it is. Otherwise, I let the size of the fret dictate the size of the drill. I typically use 3 different sizes; 1/16" for most frets where there is plenty of room, a little bitty one (#56, I think) for most small frets and an itsy, bitsy, teenie one (#72, I think) for anything that is too small for the other 2 sizes.

Agree with what Kevin said.