Leaderboard

Few things I’ve done lately

I just had to do it.I worked on the pattern for awhile, got it done, looked at it for several weeks ,and now that I,m back in my shop making dust, I said go for it. I cut the frame that had the words on it,but I didn't allow room at the bottom.they covered Lee,s mouth.so I took my dermel tool and cut them off.wont be making that mistake again.

I have learned so much from all you guys here at the village. Thanks so much. When someone mentions a product I buy it and try it and see if I like it better than what I am using. I must admit that I have a few opened containers of product product that I might was well pitch because it I wasn't for me. I have four different types of sanding mops. I use them all depending on what I'm making. My go to finish on plaques is SW pre catalyzed lacquer. I spray it clear or in colors. I have tried everything and I keep going back to it. It isn't a great process for doing small pieces like this . I have found that I like using Watco Danish Oil followed up with a coat of Bees Wax and mineral oil. Special thanks to Kevin for doing the video of how to make it.

Glued up some scrap and went to cuttin' So as an informal poll, what do you like better the red or green flocking (green box provided for comparison, I think I already posted this one)

This is another pattern by H Botas. These will join the elephants that I posted recently on my market table this weekend. Cheers Peter

Person selling Black Walnut for $1.50 BF. Said it was cut 70 years ago. I got 30 BF for $46.50.

My first time using spiral blades along side my flat blades. I found the spiral quite 'scary', mainly because I'm relatively comfortable with my flat blades and I like nice 'clean' points and corners and the spirals gave me neither. . However, I'm not unhappy with the outcome and I can see that they have a place in my 'tool box', just not too often I think. !!

I did the 50/50 BLO on them today. The frames are my usual fence boards trying to save the knots wherever I can. One is 1/4" real BB from Woodcraft, the last piece I had. The other is the sacrificial 3/16" underlayment. I thought is looked OK, knots, grain and all. Just as easy to make two frames as one when you make them at the same time.

You could do what I did & buy a sheet of magnetic flexible sheet from e bay & cut it to size and place it over the table surface. I find it works fantastically.

Made this pattern that I done last week into a shadow box, seem it is a lot clearer then the one I post before. H Botas pattern.

Back to bowls - here is one more new bowl, last one was at April Birch plywood, recommended thickness - 1/4 inch Video of making scroll saw bowl Bowl Pattern

awesome deal congrats

Yep, it sure does.

And there in lies the problem. My wife likes the red, but my girlfriend likes the green

Does that modification work well for all sizes of blades?

I don’t know about the finish but that piece is beautiful, RJ

Well the finish on that great looking clock is perfect. Nice Job!

I like using Danish oil and I like using Kevin's concoction. Never thought of combining the two. I'll have to give it a try. Cool clock by the way.

Just your usual beautiful work, Dave. As always, super scrolling and finishing.

A grade school teacher in Heppner, Oregon where we lived for 15 years before we moved to Arizona, told us last month that she retired at the end of last year. She is a good friend and continues to give of herself to so many people. She is always the one that volunteers for just about everything that is in need of another body. Her statement to me was, "Now I will have more time for the little ones at church to help them learn about God. My wife and I both love her a lot and she has spent a lot of time at our house, when we lived there, having diner with us or using our outdoor fire pit to conduct a fun time for others and to sing songs and roast products. Always a good time and everyone was always welcome to come and enjoy. I know this plaque does not fit her ways much and is pretty masculine. but I think she will love it and cherish the fact that we cared enough to make this memorial of HER retirement special by giving her this little Item This is a Sue Mey design, cut with BB ply and finished with semi gloss spray. Dick heppnerguy

Something simple after all those 'spots' And I know just the little girl who would love to have this. I'll surprise her over the weekend with it.

Many thanks once again to @Birchbark for doing this pattern for me, it's truly appreciated. They are leaving home on Sunday I do hope it's to their liking but if not they can stay here with me, I love them.

For those of you that use an actual branding iron on your work, do you brand the item before or after you put the finish on? Is your branding iron electric, or heat it with a flame? which do you prefer if you have tried both?

Six little Christmas gifts. 1/2" Poplar

As I continued to be dismayed at the mistakes in cutting my Owl piece that I posted a couple of days ago. I decided it may serve as some relaxation to try something else to take my mind off my frustrations. So I looked through my patterns and found an intarsia pattern that I purchased some time ago from Judy Gale Roberts. So I started it. It has been a long time since I tried an Intarsia piece, so I actually enjoyed giving it a shot. I think I will give it to one of my grandsons for Christmas. Dick heppnerguy

I waxed the table quite well but it still did it. Not a problem for me. My friend's son-in-law is a paint and body man. He would probably shoot it with clear coat if I asked.

You did good on that deal, LOL

What a great find.

I again offered these phone holders for sale today but had no interest in them at all! I am glad that I only made twelve of them.

I think the sheet I purchased was 0.8 mm in thickness

Place by me is $12 for a 5'x 5' 1/8" 1/4" 5' x 5' is about $16. I am super happy I have this place around.

What thickness is the magnetic sheet

hello Don, I'm in the uk, I was mucking about buying plywood here and there Then i started to buy from trustleaf, not sure about the value, They on ebay 25 sheets 600mm by 300 6mm which is almost 24" by 12" for £47.50 free delivery if i need 12mm i glue up Their service is good

I recently bought some adhesive shelf paper at the Dollar Tree. It is not a large roll but for a $1 has gone quite a ways and seems to work just fine. I especially like it for larger pieces as doesn't take so much blue tape.

Looks great to me!

I received a quote last week from the local wood merchant and his prices were for genuine Baltic Birch Ply 2440 x 1220 x 6mm £41 2440 x 1220 x 9mm £41.30 2440 x 1220 12mm £54 These prices are Ex. VAT. I don't know the vat rate, around 20% I think. I asked for a quote as our scroll saw group in the 'Mens Shed' as going to have a go at making wooden geared clocks and it needs the best of wood.

Yes, a Steve Good pattern with the Dave Monk "touch". Beautiful as always.

I am from Canada and Baltic Birch cost 16.75 for 1/8 inch and 26.90 for 1/4 inch. (CDN$ plus 13%tax) My supplier will give you one cut for transportation. So I buy usually 2 sheets at a time and them stack it so I end up with 1/4 sheets. The grade I get is BB/BB which means - BB/BB: Single piece face and back. Both face and back veneers allow 3-6 small color-matched patches on average and some light mineral streaks. Tight pin knots may be present. Inner cores are solid single piece veneers. I can work around any plugs or blemishes for the work I do. B/BB is really expensive and harder to find.

That "starting fluid" is either. Don't inhale much of it, or you may find yourself sleeping instead of working. Use it in a well ventilated area. Charley

Right now I can buy a full sheet of 1/4" Baltic Birch for about $23. You would get about 25 sq ft of plywood that way. Even if it cost 2X more where you live, you will be saving significantly by buying full sheets and cutting it up yourself. Find a local source for the full sheets. With metal knees and heart problems, I can no longer use a foam sheet to support my work or work at floor level when breaking sheets down. I made a cutting table for breaking down sheet stock outside my small shop. It's just a 23" X 70" frame (exact size not critical) made from 1 X 4 pine with 5 short lengths of 2 X 4 laid flat and flush with the top surface of the 1 X 4 frame, one of these across the center and then two more at each end where the banquet table legs (from Harbor Freight) needed to attach. All of the joints were made with biscuits and glue, so the only metal in the wood are the short screws that attach the banquet table legs. These legs fold up into the lower side of the table, so the folded size is only 3 1/2" thick. It stores easily against my sheet stock and comes out first when I need to break a sheet down. I use long aluminum straight edge clamps for guides. One is 50" long and the other is 102". These are available from Peachtree Woodworking www.ptreeusa.com , but you can use any straight edge that you already have, like a board and clamps. I have made a zero clearance kind of shoe for my circular saw. It's a piece of clear Lexan the size of my saw's shoe with a clearance hole large enough for the blade guard to operate through it, AT the front of this hole is a thin slit for the area of the saw blade teeth to rise up through it. This is the actual zero clearance function, and it keeps the wood splinters from lifting as the blade teeth rise up through it. I've been doing it this way since before track saws became available, so never felt that I could justify buying a track saw. In use, I set the saw blade depth to cut about 1/4" deeper than the material that I will be cutting, and I position the sheet stock so the cut line is roughly above the center of the cutting table. You can make a complete cut and the table will hold both pieces well enough that the blade can complete the cut without either piece falling and breaking near the end of the cut. I don't worry about the resulting kerf in the table since it is very shallow and no where deep enough for the saw blade to hit metal. If I ever make so many cuts in the table surface that it becomes difficult to use, I'll make a new table and transfer the legs to it. If I need very accurate sizes of the pieces that I cut from the sheet, I cut them about 1/4" over size and then trim them to final size inside my shop on my Unisaw. This table is light enough to easily carry and set up, and I have almost completely given up my use of saw horses since building it. When doing work away from my shop I always take it with me. When I use my miter saw I place a piece of plywood large enough for the saw on the center of the front edge of the table and attach it with two screws to the center 2 X 4. The the saw gets placed on this piece of plywood. I then have areas on either side of and behind the saw to hold my trim pieces while cutting them. Charley

Plywood typically is not measured in board feet as is Hardwoods. Hardwoods take into account thickness x width x length. Plywood is measured in thickness by board size. A board foot is 1”x12”x12”. If you were going to measure plywood by board feet, your 1/4” x12x12” plywood would be 1/4 board foot. Keep in mind plywood is layers of wood laminated together as opposed to hardwood which is solid wood, not manufactured.

Hegner puts the "saw teeth" in there clamp holder to show you which way the teeth should face, I guess. I have found that I scratched my arm on this modification so I rounded off the corners a bit.

Yep that is what I did, magnetic flex sheet is slippery too

I just made the same this evening. The pop rivets are genius! I have one more to make.

How much did you sell them for? Where can i get the pattern?

Thanks for help. next week i may contact the supplier to see what they suggest .

Thinking that might be the black primer... Mine is reaching that point in a few spots.. If you don't care too much about the appearance you could seal that off with some good clear coat spray.. Automotive urethane spray on the table would last a long time I think.. if you could get your hands on some anyway.. They have gotten pretty strict about selling automotive type coatings ( the good stuff anyway, not the cheap touch up paints ) to the general public in some areas.. The stuff they put on these is ( I believe) some fairly cheap paint.. A quality powder coating would even be better yet..

How old is the Excalibur? My Excalibur has a silver / grey painted table.. and yes the paint doesn't stay on the table after a hundred or so hours use it's wearing off.. But I've not had any issue with it getting on my projects.. My saw is I believe to be a 2017 model.. I think they painted them all for most of the years they was made.. but I never seen a black table one.. The new Jet 18" saw has a black table and maybe the new Pegas? As for taking the paint off.. I'd use either two options.. sand it off with a orbital sander.. and make sure to hold it flat to the table surface.. don't get into a hurry and angle the sander to the edge like i see a lot of folks do.. doing that will just create a un-flat surface which will drive you crazy when trying to saw.. Other option is to use a aircraft paint remover and soak it down good... then use a hard plastic scraper and scrape it away... going that route.. I'd remove the table so you don't get the stuff dripping off the table into other parts of the saw.. probably still need to sand the table smooth and apply a good coat of Johnson paste wax.. and keep it waxed or it'll rust..

My daughter called today and requested an intarsia piece from me, so I found the pattern and got it cut out and ready to start shaping. I will post it when it is finished Dick heppnerguy

That piece would have increased my bad vocabulary some at least!