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This is my first attempt at flocking. As mentioned in another thread I was not very happy with the outcome. The first time I did it my coverage was not great. I went ahead and put more coat of glue over the existing flocking on the bottom. I did a lot of research and no one recommended doing this but I am always willing to try something once. The results weren't great. The coverage is good but ended up with small bumps. I won't try that again. Octoolguy inspired me to do the round box. He made one and posted it probably about a month ago. I did change it up a bit.

took awhile thinking im loseing interest

Charles Hand pattern

OK people...don't laugh too hard. This is the 1st full pattern I've cut. Practiced a little on a cedar fence board then cut this out of 1/4 birch plywood. I started with the buck's antlers then head and neck. I would cut a little then go across and drop out the piece...then continue to the next section. I cut most of the "LOVE" and dropped out the piece...it was then that I realized I was missing the center of the L, O, and E! I looked at a copy of the pattern and there they were. I think you call them "floaters"? So I just finished the doe for practice. Wasn't really a scroll saw pattern, just one of a bunch of pictures on the internet. Now I know what to look for when I think I've found a project! Does anyone have a real pattern like this?

The pattern is by Diana Thompson and found in "Custom Wooden Boxes for the Scroll Saw". The box is approximately 5 1/2" in diameter. It is made from Hard Maple with Red Cedar Butterfly inlay. I used FD Polar #3 and #7 blades. The finish is one coat sanding sealer and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Semi Gloss. Comments Welcome.

Hi everyone again! I know that I don´t post a lot, but that´s because I can´t spend all the time that i´d like in the scrollsaw. Sorry about that, but when I have a finished project, I share it with all of you This time, I bring you a little project that I made for a kind of contest, in which the topic was the game "Grand Theft Auto V". I take a photo from the game, designed the pattern and finally cut it in 5mm plywood. I leave you the original photo, the pattern and the final result. I hope you all like it

These Steve Good cell phone holders are popular with the folks I work with. People love them.

Places we have vacationed. THANK YOU BOBSCROLL!!! Surgery recovery therapy...lol

I was cutting a Mickey Mouse figure for my Grandson out of 5/8" Maple. I had a few different brands of #5 blades, so I tried cutting with three. They were Pegas MGT, OnLine Gold ( I got from Judy Gale Roberts about 10 years ago) and Flying Dutchman FDUR. The FDUR were from a sample pack I received about 15 years ago. The Pegas MGT is my normal blade and was the easiest to control. That might have been because I am use to them. In my unscientific test, this blade seemed to last longest of the three The OnLine cut fairly similar to the Pegas, but the wood finish (cut edge) was way smoother than the other two blades. The FDUR had the roughest cut of the three. I know that most people really like the MGT, but in this case, I liked the OnLine Gold best. As a side note: I did try cutting another pattern with the OnLine Platinium which is more expensive than the Gold, and I hated the blade. It did not cut very aggressively and it seem to dull really quick. Fortunately, I only have a dozen of these. I am sure others have tried a comparison and came up with their own opinions.

Well here is what I have done this week.I plan on doing more next week.I want to finish up a sign that Steve Good made,about Browsers and Buyers.All comment are Welcomed.

Hello all, If I can work out how to do it, here is a photo of one of my first pieces. Steve Good pattern. Thanks Steve.

Seems like for those of us that don't know how to do patterns, there are lots of free stain glass patterns that would work well for this type of art. I really like what you are doing here, Dick.

As Matt noted, the OnLine blades are sold by both JGR through her studio and website found here: https://intarsia.com/collections/scroll-saw-blades or at Seyco’s site found here: https://www.seyco.com/blades/ (Seyco also sells Olsen blades.) JGR sells them by the dozen or a gross and you can mix and match sizes to get the gross. I think you may also be able to mix and match the Gold, Platinum, TLB, but not positive on that one. (you can reach out to Stacey her office manager who does the orders usually and ask.) They have a toll free number you can call. Looks like Seyco will let you mix but have to stay in same “group” like all Gold, all Platinum, etc. One note, While JGR pretty much strictly does Intarsia, I have used these blades for all kinds of Scroll Saw cutting, not just Intarsia so they do work well for other things. However, like JGR notes on her FAQ section in the Blades discussion - “The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like.” I checked my packaging on my blades and on both of their sites and it does not identify them as anything but Online blades so I do not know who manufactures them for them. On Judy’s site, if you click on each blade type, it gives you some different charts that show the blade width, thickness, TPI, etc. for each size. She also shows recommended blade size for different Wood types based on 1” thick. In her FAQ section, she has the following info. that explains the different types of blades and what woods best used for: (found here - scroll down a little to blade discussion) https://intarsia.com/pages/faq

I love the middle one also and I understand your explanation. Crupier is a master at this type of work so you are learning from the master. Marg

I know lots of people who would probably kill for that HD box. Great work!

I love the middle (first) flower one. If that is considered not finished, then I am up a creek. I would certainly consider it finished!

https://wenproducts.com/collections/parts/products/upper-lower-blade-holder I forgot to order the 2 of the Allen head screws M4x16. So I just grabbed a couple of hex head bolts for now (they are silver in the pictures). I'll change so I can use a T handle Allen wrench or find a metric nut driver and keep these. Scrappile has a good idea about one with a knob end! I'll look into that. Thanks for the idea Scrappile !

Heh. I work in IT (desktop support...some remote support, mostly on-site IT work) for D. R. Horton (not "doctor"....we're a homebuilder). I've decorated my desk with a lot of different patterns, some of them my own, some Steve Good. Usually something IT-related, anti-Monday, coffee, or just plain snarky. I'll get a pic of my desk area tomorrow, but here's some of the stuff I have up:

Hi everyone here I'm living In south Korea I like to make stuffs using scrollsaw and designs patterns I've used scroolsaw for 8years as my kid 8year old he love guns nowadays

found in scrollworkshop mag. from 2004

One of my regular customer ased me to make shadowbox duck scene. Usually I dont make patterns for request, but I have already had this pattern idea at my to do list. And here it is: Duck shadow box pattern

In hindsight, I probably should've included the word "Frequent" in there.

I would like to help I only have 10 fingers and 10 toes. And i wear socks so that makes it even more difficult.

Most if not all the blades sold at hardware or big box stores are not worth the price. Olson, niqia (flying dutchman), Gorbet (pegas) are all good blades. There are others but those are the most common.

Dave, @Dave Monk, The lid on the harley box fascinates me. I'm just starting with inlay but when I do it, there is no way the inlay is flush on both sides. Did you sand the bottom down to make it flush, or use a thicker wood for the inlay part? or?

Made this for a co-worker to give to his wife. Cherry for the top part and Walnut for the base. It is still drying in the pic. It will need one, maybe two more coats. I was going to round off the edges of the base, but my router broke. All comments welcome, good or bad.

You do super work, Dave. Those are beautiful.

On thicker wood, I use a skip tooth blade as they cut faster than a FDUR.

I see a lot of cutting there Kevin. They look great. You going to paint them or leave them natural.

Awesome work Dave.

I found a longer screw that I could use and then used wingnuts to loosen the clamp.

You do good work, Dave !

I keep my upper clamp on my Hegner tightened down in the divot and do not have any problems.

I never heard of those blades from Judy.. But wow.. I might have to give them a try.. only $22 a gross from what little I looked on her site.. That's at least $10 cheaper than most any blades I typically use... I was short on time but didn't happen to see any sample packs.. That's usually where I go with new blades to see if I like them..

Yes Charlie they are. Marg

OnLine blades are sold by Seyco and Judy Gale Roberts. I am not sure who actually makes the blades or if they are the same as something else being sold.

Usually it is done by cutting a rebate in the edge of the wood, deeper than the glass. Glazier's points are then driven in to hold the glass in place, then a retaining strip is put in to help hold the glass in and cover the points. If it is in a window, putty is used instead of the strips to waterproof the joint. In picture frames, a back cover is placed over the points to protect the picture. If the glass is ever broken, the glazier's points are easily removed so the glass can be replaced. The process is known as glazing, and there are probably a lot of Utube videos on it.

What are you trying to attach? Is it flat glass, a glass, textured glass? What type of wood? Not that I will have any suggestions, but it might help others to figure out possibilites

We have used the wine several times and always seem to have good results. As noted, put plenty of the colored adhesive down and then oversaturate the flocking so that yo can not see anything but flocking.

Thanks for giving your insight. I think blade likes and dislikes are as you say, what we get used to. I have tried Flying Dutchmen after so many here speak sohighly of them. However, I have not liked them all that much. I have also tried the Pegasus MG ones and like those ok. I have also tried others. However, my favorites tend to be the OnLine ones from JGR. However, that may be because those are the ones I learned to use first after taking a class early from JGR and then continued to use as my primary blade.

So delicate looking warms any womans heart! You should make a truck load of these and sell out!!! Really really nice work Marg,Keep your work coming!!!

I prefer the middle one when comparing the last to the middle, and thanks for the demonstration. I think the black lines in the middle one, makes it more distinct and lends a stained glass format to it. I also prefer the narrow black lines vs the wider ones in the first pic

I am using a wine with the same color glue.

I don't have the right bit for that. I had planned on cutting it out with the scroll saw like an inlay so it would recess down into itself and cut/sand the bottom part off. Then I realized the cab wouldn't fit under the scroll saw arm. I think a router would present the same type problem with the cab. I used a 1" fostner bit on the drill press making multiple cuts and smoothed it our a bit with a drum sander on my Dremel. Not a real polished finish but my target audience shouldn't notice.

Thanks Harry,, where were you about 10 hours ago? LOL

Thanks Harry,, where were you about 10 hours ago? LOL

Looks Real Good. Quality Scrolling. Did you stack cut? I only go to 4 using 1/8" BB.... Cut Once and Collect Bucks Four times. LOL Danny :+}

Idle hands are the devil's workshop. Looks like you kicked him out of your workshop! Nice work.

Busy busy busy. Great work. Marg

Very nicely done,great patterns Bob