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I’m in the groove Charles Hand pattern thank you charles Hand and Charles Dearing for pushing my limits. There are many fine designers out there but these two have produce most I want to cut so far but I’m always looking for new challenges

she wanted me to do an elephant for her. I put it in the back of my mind intentionally, letting her think I forgot - have to keep them guessing. Last night I gave her this one

Cut these from 1/4" birch ply, they measure about 3"-5" for Santa, Spielman-Reidle patterns. I coat the sides and one face with poly , this allows someone to sign the back and attach it to a present as a keepsake. Stack cut 4 at a time. Thanks for looking.

found in scrollworkshop mag. from 2004

Hello all, If I can work out how to do it, here is a photo of one of my first pieces. Steve Good pattern. Thanks Steve.

Got a new toy today. I figured most of the wood I will use will be 1x or 1/4. Table saw is under a pile of stuff (got to clean out the shop...maybe next year) and the circular saw is a pain trying to cut smaller pieces of 1/4". Neither would be small, light and packable to go in the RV this winter. I think this little saw will be just right. Anyone else use something like this?

This is my first attempt at flocking. As mentioned in another thread I was not very happy with the outcome. The first time I did it my coverage was not great. I went ahead and put more coat of glue over the existing flocking on the bottom. I did a lot of research and no one recommended doing this but I am always willing to try something once. The results weren't great. The coverage is good but ended up with small bumps. I won't try that again. Octoolguy inspired me to do the round box. He made one and posted it probably about a month ago. I did change it up a bit.

The pattern is by Diana Thompson and found in "Custom Wooden Boxes for the Scroll Saw". The box is approximately 5 1/2" in diameter. It is made from Hard Maple with Red Cedar Butterfly inlay. I used FD Polar #3 and #7 blades. The finish is one coat sanding sealer and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Semi Gloss. Comments Welcome.

Looks like you cut the outside of the antlers, then looped back around to the inside. That means all the stress of blade vibration/pressure sits on the tiny connection piece. I try to find all the little islands and cut around those first, then loop back around the outside. Looking at it another way, if the thick black line is a river, cut the part that touches the inside of the antlers first. That way, you have all the rest of the piece of wood to help provide stability to the weak bridges. Coming back around the other side of the river, the antler points still have the rest of your project for support. Its a hard lesson to learn. All is not lost, though....wood glue is your friend!

Not a lot of wood to hold together at that spot. I try to hold a weak spot with my finger as I cut. This will help keep the wood from vibrating and the blade from pulling it up.

My guess, the #5 blade is too large for 1/4" plywood. I would use a #1.

I was sort of awe struck when I saw the demo video that Steve Good did. I did not know that anyone had even thought to make a bandsaw that was capable of using such a small blade. I have to say that Pegas Company is quite innovative. Their products are on the spendy side for me, but they all seem to be well engineered. I would give this saw high marks for probably quality but I, personally will not be in the market for one. Dick heppnerguy

Great work Dave! Wonderful boxes! I agree flocking is a flocking pain to get perfect. As to hiding the entry hole, what I do if it is obvious, is to shave off the imperfection with an Exacto knife before gluing the inlay in place. This gives a slightly wider kerf space that is not noticed after filling in with filler. I also usually use 3/8" wood but I needed to do inlay in 3/16" thick wood that I am using for the sliding cover of wine bottle boxes. Without changing my saw table angle I just inlay the 3/8" wood into the thinner wood and push it through until the back is flush. I then cut and sand off the front flush. Here is a photo of my first three of them.

WTB, Wooden Teddy Bear https://woodenteddybear.com/ scroller online http://www.scrolleronline.com/ Alex Fox https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA?fbclid=IwAR0UpHYrz9q5FrRsprUcvnogujbmsaBay5gfCNyU_DZsLNj2uetoQKhIplc Charles Hand https://scrollsawart4u.weebly.com/ to name just a few

Well here is what I have done this week.I plan on doing more next week.I want to finish up a sign that Steve Good made,about Browsers and Buyers.All comment are Welcomed.

yesterday I joined this village and said hello to you this village was kind of adventure to me I want to say thank for your warm greeting it was touched really english and village stuff is still strange I feel like I traveling around world now I will get used it soon hopfully in Korea there is villages like this and I know we just same as we like to make scrollsaw stuffs I made shark recentely coz of my son wanna see that movie Megalodon he is too young to see that movie so I made Megalodon puzzle for him

Here is my next attempt to learn the method I want to do more of. Getting my lines smaller, but I have found this method is the most difficult one, for me, that I have tried so far. Even the Eiffel Tower and the Tower clock were less stressful for me. One of the reasons I wish to learn this method is because I want to do cartoon plaques for my great grandkids for Christmas. What I learned from cutting this one is I need to increase the pattern size quite a bit. Several of the pieces really needed to be at least 50% larger because I lost of lot of the size I would normally have by having to cut on the inside of all the black lines and making the actual painted pieces really small, as a result. I drew this pattern on inscape and used a maple board I had so that it would not have fuzzies and to lessen the chance of chip out. Overall, I like it but made a few mistakes. That is part of the learning process for an old guy like me. I will wait to start the next one and give myself a break. Dick heppnerguy

Last week Steve Good posted these patterns and I thought it would be fun to make. I used 1/4" Walnut. It is 3 1/4" wide and 6" high. I tried to make the 3" out of Cherry, but it broke and I was unable to glue it together. I used FD UR #1 blades and finished with sanding sealer and two coats spray Lacquer Clear Semi Gloss. Comments welcome.

Like is mentioned above. Start with the smaller inside cuts and work outside cuts last. that way the smaller inside cuts have more support when cutting. We all have wood pieces that break out on us from time to time. Just think of it as more practice opportunity as your start to recut another one. Blade suggestions are good here. Use smaller blades and let the blade do the cutting. Don't force the corners with pressure on the piece by the blade. Slow down on the curves. Also I would use a smaller drill bit so that the wood on the bottom of the piece does not tare out into the finished project. Dick heppnerguy

ROFL you guys are so funny

Les, I tried that method and had three neighbors in the driveway with their shoes off and still couldn't figure it out. But, it looks like @JimErndid the heavy lifting.

For the life of me I can’t remember the online pattern designer that you can purchase there patterns, one of them was Sue Mey, but I thought there was another one, anyone know what it is, thx in advance, RJ i had Just remembered Sheila Landry, thx RJ

Thanks for the replies. I like to test myself. Rockytime.......I used to work in a Diesel engine manufacturing company. I was in Q.C. I would take a sample of fuel pumps from the suppliers, mount them on a test rig and check them. Mainly for fuel delivery.....smoke emissions etc. i had to take early retirement from work due to foot problems. i bought a turning lathe and made pens, bowls, clocks etc. I have now graduated to a scrollsaw. Enjoying it very much. Here is a picture of my turning. 750 segments. Stands about 12” tall. Very slow job making those! Barry.

Actually a lot of bandsaws do not come with the fence... that's an added expense in some cases... also a lot of them that do come with a fence... the fence isn't tall enough for resawing anything very big anyway.. This Pegas saw I think only accepts very small blades as it's a "scrolling" bandsaw so the blades for it I believe are only about the size of the "larger" scroll saw blades. With all that said.. It's "not" the traditional bandsaw as we know them.. and I also believe a "traditional" bandsaw will not run a blade as small as these do.. even with the Carter set-up.. ( I believe anyway ).. So as I've said before.. I think it probably has some value for it in someones shop that does a certain type of work... That shop is probably not "Our" shops.. Years ago I bought my bandsaw with the intent to re-saw and also make bandsaw boxes... It does great at both.. But with that said.. as much as I was switching back and forth between the two.. swapping set-ups from a 3/4 - 1 inch re-saw blade to a 3/16 blade all the time.. a dedicated bandsaw such as this Pegas unit doesn't look so bad in my eyes if I were still doing bandsaw boxes.. simply because I wouldn't have to continually change set up.. plus there is not the temptation or even ability to change the set up on this saw to re-saw anyway.. I gave up the bandsaw boxes mainly because of having to change set-up all the time.. That said.. the money for this saw and being limited with blade source's I'd be more apt to buy another traditional bandsaw so I could have the option for more flexibility if I needed it.. I'm not sticking up for this Pegas bandsaw BUT, before I write this Pegas saw off.. I'd like to use it OR at least see some feedback on it from some " Real " wood shops other than those promotional videos showing off their new invention..

I have one only different brand. It was given to me, thought I would never use it, but it cuts 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood easier and cleaned than my bigger circular saw and I seem to be able to cut straighter with it.

It is a technique called double bevel inlay. You can find a video I did in the tutorial section on page 2. Jim Flynn (who is an expert at it) also has a tutorial there.

I second what Scrappile just said. First of all, we all have had a lot of firewood. Sadly, I have no fireplace. Second, wear a dusy mask no matter what you are cutting. Scroll saw make a ton of fine dust. Many of us have a 20 inxh box fan sitting along side of us to draw the dust away. Put a furnace filter on the inlet side. Make sure your dust blower blows the dust away from you toward that fan. I vacuum off the furnace filter after every session. It's amazing how much it catches. 3rd, Rockytime buys sheets of under layment plywood ay H/D for just a few dollars. It's about 3/16" thick amd seems to cut well. And, 4th, do tell us a bit about yourself. Welcome to the village. It's the friendliest place on the web. 5th, no such thing as a dumb question!!!

I would like to help I only have 10 fingers and 10 toes. And i wear socks so that makes it even more difficult.

Plywood is not suited to our hobby, the filler in between layers is not always dense enough and has voids Baltic birch plywood is the best plywood for scrolling, hard to find a lot of time locally, but it can be ordered from amazon in various thicknesses and sizes. Poplar is sold at the box (Home Depot, Lowes) stores, that scrolls well and is reasonably cheap. Pine works too, especially if you cherry pick a stick with few to zero knots. The box stores usually carry regular pine and "select yellow pine". Designer firewood is a part of this addiction, we all have it, and sometimes boast about it. chipping rare when using baltic birch plywood. But it can also be somewhat controlled by speed. I believe that a high speed on the saw, and a slow feed rate allows the blade to "revisit" the cut and reduces the fuzzies. Feed rate = the rate you allow the wood to hit the saw. Blades with reverse teeth also reduce the fuzzies a lot. If you read on here a lot you will devotee's to about any blade made, with the exception of the blades you can buy at the box stores. Flying Dutchman (Niqua), Pegas Modified Geometry are the two main brands for the majority of us.

I passed Geometry class in the last century, and I firmly believe I only passed it because my teacher didn't want to deal with me again the following year. I'm more of a visual kind of guy, so I'd draw a circle the size I wanted, print off a bunch of patterns and start laying them around to see how many fit around the circle. If the patterns overlap, make the circle bigger. If there's space left over, you can either widen the gap between sides, shrink the circle down, or make the circle bigger and add another side. Just reading Jim's maths made my head hurt.

were you using a zero clearance fix of some sort? I've given my self many scroll saw manicures over the years. lol

I wonder if they are phasing out the Original stuff to go with the Latex . Everywhere I looked the solvent for the "original" was discontinued. Have you ever tried the latex type? I'm wondering what kind of solvent would work with the original,,, maybe mineral spirits..

I still use FD UR #1 blades. Lots on hand.

I always keep a can of solvent. When it gets a bit stiff I just add a bit. As long as I keep the lid tight it will last forever. The solvent is a bit harder to find. Luckily my local lumber supplier carries it. Some of the colors don't match perfectly mainly because every piece of wood is a different color. I have the hardest time with a real light maple. I keep red oak, maple, alder, walnut, and natural. A lot of times I use alder fill to fill oak.

I have been wanting one of these for the same purpose. Glad I am not the only one thinking this way.

good idea and nice useful projects. I really enjoy making things for people as gifts. They always seem to be so appreciated. Dick heppnerguy

This bandsaw is likely great for the specific purpose of running smaller blades. If I had a need for it, I would buy it. Pegas seems to make very high quality things. I have a 16" bandsaw for resaw and heavier work . I also have a Rikon with the Carter Stabilizer and run a 3/16" blade and it works fine but still has limitations . For some work the Pegas would be nice but I do not have the room for a third bandsaw. I have thought about selling my 16" bandsaw and getting a 14" one. I just do not need to resaw anything real big. I find that resawing is more difficult than it sounds. One needs to carefully fine tune their saw and then run the pieces thru a planer. If I was resawing a lot a big saw would be great.

Very nice cutting on cute patterns.

I have two scroll saws, one band saw, guess I don't need one.

Not only do these look great but the concealment of the entry hole is perfect. Beautiful pieces.

The present positions of the notches for the panels are equal distant around the circumference, that distance is the 1/2 the radius ( radius is 1/2 of the diameter) Use a compass, draw the 10 inch circle, radius in this case would be 5 You want 10 panels around r * 2 * 3.14 /10 5 * 2 * 3.14 = 31.4 / 10 = 3.14 use 3.14 inches as the distance for the compass legs, start in one spot and arc the circumference working your way around I would use metric for the last part, 3.14 inches is 76.2 mm, or if want 3.14" is 3 3/16 plus some

Great work on your first. Suggest you keep it in the shop and look at it from time to time and you will see the progress.

I have been trying various blades and I quite like Niqua. I am at present using Niqua #1 and am getting on quite well with them. I thought I read somewhere they are made by the same company who make Flying Dutchman? I have tried Flying Dutchman but just can’t get used to them. I also like Pegas blades. The MG ones work for me. barry.

As Matt noted, the OnLine blades are sold by both JGR through her studio and website found here: https://intarsia.com/collections/scroll-saw-blades or at Seyco’s site found here: https://www.seyco.com/blades/ (Seyco also sells Olsen blades.) JGR sells them by the dozen or a gross and you can mix and match sizes to get the gross. I think you may also be able to mix and match the Gold, Platinum, TLB, but not positive on that one. (you can reach out to Stacey her office manager who does the orders usually and ask.) They have a toll free number you can call. Looks like Seyco will let you mix but have to stay in same “group” like all Gold, all Platinum, etc. One note, While JGR pretty much strictly does Intarsia, I have used these blades for all kinds of Scroll Saw cutting, not just Intarsia so they do work well for other things. However, like JGR notes on her FAQ section in the Blades discussion - “The kind and size of scroll saw blades can vary from one user to the next. What works for me here in the studio may not work as well for you on your saw. I have a certain “feel” that I like when sawing and that can be different than what you like.” I checked my packaging on my blades and on both of their sites and it does not identify them as anything but Online blades so I do not know who manufactures them for them. On Judy’s site, if you click on each blade type, it gives you some different charts that show the blade width, thickness, TPI, etc. for each size. She also shows recommended blade size for different Wood types based on 1” thick. In her FAQ section, she has the following info. that explains the different types of blades and what woods best used for: (found here - scroll down a little to blade discussion) https://intarsia.com/pages/faq

Those look great Marg. Love the natural one's

Just started putting the pattern together but the base is still off. That's on the large one. Everything else fits. Give it a try and see if you have the same problem. It's on the large base.

Just printed it out. Thanks for letting Steve know.

Now I am flattered Dave, using one of mine, thank you! Back in that first thread I did about flocking I said I did not go with the one you are showing, the one I went with used acrylic paint and it works good. So I can't speak to using the paste in the kit you showed. Walmart carries the hunter green paint in the craft section, less than a buck for a 2oz bottle and that is plenty One thing I do is I made a tamper, block of wood rounded on all edges and gently "tamp" the flocking, gives is a crushed velvet look, rather than the felt look - well my opinion anyway. Of course that is after "spraying" a hefty layer of flocking. edit - read Don's reply, I use sanding sealer, one coat, no sanding

This one is not mine but notice the inside.

OK...I'm new...what the heck is he talking about?? Picture please!