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Not exactly the spitting image I had hoped for but recognizable I think thanks to his "mate". I thought it only fitting that the backer be khaki.

WOO HOO!! I did a stack cut! OK...I know it's no big deal lol. But the first one is to me... I did a 4 stack with 1/8th in. B/BB plywood, and a very easy ornament pattern. I was more interested in the mechanics of doing a stack than how intricate the pattern was. Found the patterns in Sun Catcher Studios on line. I can practice some more with Christmas ornaments then get little more interesting patterns. I used a Pegas #5 blade that I got at Woodcraft when I was in KC yesterday. Really surprised me! I don't know if I am getting better, it was the 4 stacked, or the blade but it was very easy to cut! About 1 1/2 hrs. from cutting the plywood into 5" squares on the table saw to pealing off the pattern/blue tape...which is very fast for me. It surprised me that a #5 cut that easy and smooth. Also the Pegas blade did not wander at all!! It just followed the line wherever I pointed it, and was easy to make the few sharp turns also. But I'll tell you...as a newbie taking the trip around the outside of that 4" ornament seamed to take a long time... Hey Kevin...or anyone else that does hundreds of ornaments every year. Is there a fast easy way to put a nice looking finish on them?

My dad found some old rough cut cedar planks at an estate sale a couple years ago. He gave me an idea and I expanded on it a little bit. I went online and found a bunch of horse silhouette in different poses, cut them out and stained them different colors to make a small herd. I also used a smaller piece of walnut I found lying around and thought it would be cool to try too. They turned out pretty good. I kept the smaller walnut one. I have a similar idea for some old grey barn wood and a stagecoach.

So this is my first time stack cutting. 3 pcs of 1/8 bb ply. Tried it with a simple pattern. First time using something other than a 2/0 blade. Ended up using a FD ur 1. Was surprised how clean the cuts were. Virtually no fuzzies. The backer was 3 pcs of 1/4 bb. The fd ur 1 wasn’t cutting it so I went to a fd ur3 which worked well. Some things I learned were that a number 3 blade has no problem cutting through your finger tip and through a fingernail. Make the backers a little larger so you have some room to work with. Requires a lot more finishing time. Didn’t like using packing tape. They turned out ok. Steve Good Pattern.

Finally had something to post......I've made these before but this is a new set for someone......made from cedar fence pickets painted....solar light in top.....comments are always welcomed......thank you

Paper cutting is very similar. If you're googling it, the term is scherenschnitte. Lots of patterns. Very cool stuff.

I guess I am weird, well we knew that, but the only use I have found that I like for those test tubes, is to hold different wood saw dust that I use for filler. I get the blades in that plastic pouch, cut the top off, unwrap them and put them back, then I just get one out as needed. no labeling, no tops to drop, works well for me.

I took orders for 6 leash holders at my event this past Saturday, here are 4 of them done along with a custom WOLFPACK request I'd received earlier. Last weekly market coming up this Saturday, then my best event comes up in October, followed by 4 holiday markets... Busy markets, lots of cutting to do...

Time to think about Christmas, this is my first Christmas project this year Video of making Christmas deer Christmas deer pattern

I was doing my usual Google search for patterns (my daughter requested a multi-layer shadowbox with dragons...), and ran across a potential new source: papercutting or papercraft. They work under the same physical constraints as scrollers (islands, etc), and there's a TON of awesome patterns out there. Just as an example, I was looking at the patterns done by "Wildchild" on Etsy, found a couple of multi-layer shadowbox patterns that will work well for my needs. There are millions of patterns out there, though, if this style doesn't appeal to you. https://www.etsy.com/shop/WildchildDesigns77

I know there are a few folks using this set up.. As time passed using mine I've noticed that it's not sliding across the wood blanks as easy as it once did.. and I've been having to lift it to the next spot.. If i tried to slide i to the next spot it's make the whole board slide.. Today while using the Johnson's paste wax on my Excalibur's table I thought I'd wax the bottom plate of that plunge router.. WOW! that thing just glides across now... Also the two post on each side where the mechanism slides in the up / down... either wax or spray a little spray lube on those makes it plunge easy too..

I used up all my FD corian #3 blades and am looking for replacements. Today the first batch of test blades came in. One dozen each FD Polar skip #1, #3; Pegas Skip tooth #1, #3. I am cutting the interior of my heart boxes, 1 1/4 inch thick oak, some fairly sharp corners, same pattern for each blade, two boxes per blade type. FD-P #3 first up, fairly good cutting very smooth finish, drop out slides back and forth in the hole without binding, good tracking (didn't wander off the line) PST-3 good cutting, not as smooth finsh, one drop out would not slide all the way through, poor tracking. PST-1okay cutting, broke one blade an inch into the cut, finished the first and second box with the second blade,not as smooth a finish as FD, drop out slides back and forth , poor tracking. FD-P #1 great cutting, smooth finish, drop out slides back and forth, good tracking. I think this is the winner, especially for the sliding dovetails. I'll continue to contrast and compare these blade to one another as I make more boxes.

Yes, I pour out the oil into a tray, those flimsy tin trays you find in the dollar store, smaller version like what you put a turkey in for the oven when done I pour the remainder back in the can using a funnel and piece of cloth or paper towel as a filter. Wipe out the tray with a paper towel. I use a marker on the tray to tell me what oil I used, natural, oak, etc, probably overkill but I don't want to mix oils by using the same tray over and over. I try spirals every now and then, but since I don't use them a lot, I might as well not. so far flat blades have done everything I want to do.

I might be one of the few that have used the dust port and actually like it other than the noise of the shop vac.. It does suck the board down especially when you first start cutting ( fretwork ) but once you get a few holes cutout so some air can flow it gets better.. I will say also.. It helps a whole lot to keep the saw table waxed real well.. doing that regularly makes it much easier.. I guess I thought all the Excalibur's came with a foot switch? If not.. Harbor Freight has them fairly cheap and I used one from them for 12 years on my Dewalt without issues... I couldn't be without a foot switch.. I don't know how I did it before I got one.. LOL

There is more difference than just the tilting head.. The King, Ex etc saws you can also loosen the bolts on the motor and spin the motor to give the saw a less or more aggressive cut.. most folks turn it to a less aggressive which makes those sharp turns easier to do.. DeWalts are pretty aggressive saws.. great for cutting thicker stock.. I've had a DeWalt that I used for 12 years before getting the Hawks and the EX.. DeWalt is a good saw but the EX, King type saws are really nice with the fact you can tune the aggressiveness and the tilting head rather than the table is a plus.. I'd go with the King / EX-16 before a DeWalt especially considering the space for traveling etc.. but even without dealing with the space.. the saws features out weigh the throat size for me.. as I said.. not many projects require that large of saw.. and I could honestly do without making those things that require a larger saw.. Smaller projects are better for me due to I ship everything I sell and so makes shipping easier as well as the space required to store larger inventory pieces vrs small inventory items.. Just my 2 cents

I use the test tubes for blade storage and have for years. Probably saved a lot of tears if I dropped the envelope through the years.

Thanks Kevin! I've thought of getting tubes...and was going to make a holder for some. But I'll get these so they'll be the right size to put on the saw if the one I get has a holder. Speaking of size...of saw...what kind of things would you HAVE TO HAVE a 21" or larger that you can't do on a 16"? I get it there is a 5" larger throat, but I can't think of anything I would NEED to do that a 16" couldn't handle. I'm thinking most work will be 12"x12" or smaller, possibly a little larger. I would like to buy one good saw and not have to buy another...yea right this coming from a man that has 30 - 40 fishing poles.

@JimErn I did that for years.. and while it works well and the tubes really aren't "needed".. Since I have multipal saws.. and the packages do only last so long.. It's nice to have a package / tube of your blades at each saw.. I keep between 3 and 6 doz. blades in the tubes.. when I refill a tube and use the last of them in the package.. that's when its time to place my order for more blades... knowing that I have plenty of blades between each saw in case the blades end up being back ordered etc.. It's just my preference and method that I use to help me keep track of inventory.. Back before I had the tubes.. the package was always on the other saw across the shop..

The blade chucks are very much an upgrade from the stock EX clamps.. Much more user friendly... I agree with Ray... If you're looking to buy this type of saw.. Just go with the Pegas saw.. But also be aware that these saws ( at least were ) back ordered as they sold many more than they expected to.. If I ever buy another new saw again.. That would be my choice.. second choice would probably be the seyco. If I remember correctly though you are planning to lug the saw around with you as you travel? I'v thought about buying a Excalibur EX-16 just to take along camping with us since it's smaller and wouldn't take up a large amount of space, and slightly lighter to lug around.. In this case in my experience I'd upgrade those clamps and go with the smaller saw.. The Pegas isn't much bigger but when living in tight spaces.. every little bit helps..Also recommend getting blade storage tubes as the oval slots on the base of the saw is for storage tubes to eep your blades right with you at the saw.. I had storage tubes and a holder case for them but they was too large to fit the holes in the EX base.. so I ordered these here.. fit perfect and this is so nice to have the blades right there on the saw.. I wish other saw brands would have something similar.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-16-x-150-mm-Clear-Plastic-Test-Tubes-with-Blue-Caps-6-Inch/381314545375?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Jet 22. Made a good saw great. Fixes all the issues with the factory clamps and allows top feeding, which I am now learning. For my Jet, well worth the cost to upgrade.

My workshop is my office. I use plenty of painter's tape when I'm scrollsawing, so this little project will be very useful.

Poplar burl slab, 18 X 18 inches, pattern by Janevski. Cut with Sawbird 2/0 spirals. Burl was harvested locally by fellow woodworker, also got some birch and red willow slabs. Jeff

Anybody wanna venture a guess who this is going to be if I don't turn it into firewood. Not sure I'd know if I weren't cutting it. Hopefully I'll post the finished product in a day or two.

I know I should wax the tables more often...but just forget it...lol. I just set up my KC CHIEFS pattern to do...think I'll go wax the table before I start it. Thanks for reminding me!

I think it was Dave Monk that did a video I saw...making a Batman emblem for his granddaughter I believe. I really liked the boxes Jim Finn put up! He posted a photo of his flea market, or craft show, setup. And wasn't that Scrappile that put up a inlay box talking about flocking? Also I forget who posted a beautiful Harley box the other day. I think it would be so cool to learn to do that, and a tilt head saw would make it easier...I think.

We have a 35 ft. Keystone Sprinter 5th wheel now. We've made the rounds though. In the 22 yrs we've been together we've had 2 - 5th wheels, 3 - travel trailers, 2 - pickup campers, 1 - class A gas motorhome, 1 - class A diesel pusher motorhome, and a popup camper we pulled with 2 different Goldwing motorcycles and a VW powered trike!

Don't let that dust collection feature fool you. I have heard that it is so concentrated that it literally sucks the workpiece to the table and makes it unmoveable. Lots of folks have removed it and made their own design for vacuum hookup. After having my EX I can tell you that you won't be sorry you chose the EX. On another note, you mentioned inlay work. If you get interested in doing inlay or marquetry, there is a great book that you will want to get hold of. It's name is "The Art of Marquetry" by Craig Vandall Stevens. It explains a lot. Also, Dave Monk did a great video on inlay that you will want to watch a few times.

The Dewalt is larger than the EX21 or Pegas. With that said, if you are looking to stay small I'd probably go with either the EX16 or keep your eyes open for a used Hegner 14. They seem to be plentiful and make great travel saws. The Dewalt is quite heavy. Not small in any way. I've been a full-time RVer and after being in your shoes, so to speak, I know how space and weight figure into your travels. I think the 16" EX would be my choice.

Yes you pour Danish oil into a container and then just dip the ornaments into the oil.. let sit in there a few minutes then take out and wipe excess off.. pour leftover back into can.. I've been planning to build a drying station for the ornaments so they can drip dry.. Thinking along the lines of something similar to a cloths line with a rain gutter section to catch the drips.. Hang the ornament with some metal hooks let drip dry and the gutter catch the drips..

OK, now that you have that out of the way, it's off to the races, right? I've been cutting Christmas ornaments for 25+ years, giving dozens away every year to friends and family. I gave away over 100 last year. For those kinds of quantities, I've found that spraying is the most efficient method of applying a finish. I use shellac, because of the low odor and fast drying time. I can generally get all of my ornaments sprayed with 2-3 coats, (both sides) in one full day (maybe 10 hours). I've dipped in oil before and while I like it, I don't do it very often. For me, it's messier and more time consuming. YMMV

looks great to me, very nice. jim

Thanks! I think a 16" is all I'll need...at least for a while. We'll head for the Mexican border in Mission TX, about a mile from where our house was. I probably won't unpack it till we get there. But being in one spot for 3 months I thought it would give me a good opportunity to practice and sell stuff at the many flea markets all over the Rio Grande Valley. Also when we go other places I'll take it and cut if we are going to be in one spot a couple of weeks.

The quick clamp and the clamp that these old 15" saws take are different.. and this website does show they have clamps for this saw.. Not sure if they're OEM style though or not.. Copied from the website... 4. EZ Set Blade Holder System used with 15" Scroll Saws• Penn State • Grizzly • Delta • Jet • AMT • True Value • Central Machinery • Foremost • Buffalo • United • Value Craft • Powermatic • And many other imported brand scroll saws! Cost: $24.90

http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/ Woodmaster1 not sure what you saw but he no longer has the Delta quick clamps. He was using them to make the modification for the Hawk saws. I still have them on my Hawk. The problem with the Quick clamps was that people did not know how to use them and over tightened them causing the arms to bend. I occasionally find an old Delta at a yard sale. and scarf them up for parts. I did not find any this year.

very nice job

very nice work

Also the Pegas blade did not wander at all!! It just followed the line wherever I pointed it, and was easy to make the few sharp turns also. I found that to be true too, the pegas #3 is my goto blade When I make ornaments and puzzles, I dip the item in Watco oil finish, let it dry on a paper towel and wipe off the excess.

I have watched his show several times I did like it.I see his kids are picking up in his place.You did an Awesome job.

Very nice cutting, you are off and running now, keep up the good work, RJ

I use to follow his show, really enjoyed it. Crocodile Hunter, right?

Looks like you did just great! Not into Christmas ornaments I have no idea how to finish them.

The part number you need is 40-155 blade holder assembly.. They are no longer available.. If you keep an eye out on eBay etc every now and then one pops up new old stock in the package still... I don't think this clamp is used on many other of the saws if any.. but i may be wrong.. Not too much to them.. if you had something to show a machine shop.. they;d probably be able to hook you up.. Doing a search for Delta 40-155 will bring up images of these.. Both top and bottom clamps are the same part number so I assume they're the same..

Here he is I name him slim.

very colorful and interesting piece. Should draw the a lot of attention when seen Dick heppnerguy

made a while ago from creative woodworks crafts mag cant find the issue

Thank you Len. What a nice thing to say. I always prefer to do things with my wife rather then with other people and without her, but that is how it has been since I met her. Dick heppnerguy

How well i know the feeling of running out of blades of choice. My #5 gross disappeared somewhere form a avalanche and i'm out of #7's So i'm cutting with #9's an 12's .We will survive!!!

Here are a few items that made it to the office. I particularly like the Attitude is everything. Some days it means something completely different than other days! Doesn't define what type of attitude

This was my first ever scroll saw project, but it needs to be explained. I have worked with my hands most of my life. Built 2 motorhomes in my earlier days, as well as various machines and/or improvements. Took a woodworking class at a trade school & built an oak desk. Time & patience mean absolutely nothing to me. The clock was cut with a $69 Performax saw from Menards. Not visible is the pedestal that made the total height about 6 1/2'. It was given as a housewarming gift to our son in Des Moines, Iowa. To you nice people that hesitate to start what looks like a challenging/difficult piece, just remember it is always 1 hole & cut at a time. It doesn't make any difference if it takes 7 months (as this did), or you start 1 or more projects per day. The amount of sawdust is the same either way. jerry