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Made these for a church event next month. Good way to use up small leftovers.

No one in my family understands so I'll brag here. We have a local store named Ollie's that carries overstocks and close outs and occasionally they have stuff us wood people like. Went in today and got 3 shades of Watco Danish oil for $3.99 a can and 4 cans of Watco Butcher Block oil for 99 cents a can. There, now I feel better.

Finished this Tractor pattern by Travis, closest one I could come up with, since no one came up with a pattern that I posted a while back.

Some 1/8" plastic,1/2" corian,1/8" plywood,with veneir name on 3/4 ply stand

Time to think about Christmas, this is my first Christmas project this year Video of making Christmas deer Christmas deer pattern

This is not new or even my idea but thought I'd pass it along. I purchase Neodymium magnets from K&J Magnetics and use them for making refrigerator magnets. They are super strong I use them in various places. On my scroll saw I attach a magnet with double coated foam tape on the left leg of my saw to hold my blade clamp key. I could reach for it in the tray on my saw but now I no longer look for it as motor reflex automatically places my hand on the key just like you don't need to look where to insert an ignition key. Steve Good suggests a magnet on the side of the side of the saw to hold a blade to use for punching small pieces through your cutting. I also use them to hold small trays to my saws.

Try slowing the blade speed. An overheated blade will break easily. I also use a piece of paraffin wax rubbed against the sides of a moving blade for lubricant and to keep it cooler. Small blades require a little less tension too, but still break easily and dull quickly. Look closely at the sides of your broken blade to see if it has changed color in the cutting area when compared to the end color. If it's changing color you are overheating the blade. The increased temperature will cause the metal to become brittle and it will break much more easily as it becomes brittle. Charley

I know there are a few folks using this set up.. As time passed using mine I've noticed that it's not sliding across the wood blanks as easy as it once did.. and I've been having to lift it to the next spot.. If i tried to slide i to the next spot it's make the whole board slide.. Today while using the Johnson's paste wax on my Excalibur's table I thought I'd wax the bottom plate of that plunge router.. WOW! that thing just glides across now... Also the two post on each side where the mechanism slides in the up / down... either wax or spray a little spray lube on those makes it plunge easy too..

Ever since Kevin first mentioned PB Blaster I have tried it and found it be a great lubricant, I too use it on everything But, WD40 has its uses, it will clean damn near anything. Including paint, glue, silicone, grease, etc off your hands and fingers. It will also cauterize a cut - don't ask

I did not know that WD-40 is corrosive and wonder if that is true. I looked up the ingredients and found nothing corrosive and it contains some anti-corrosives. It does work to clean parts and should be followed up with a full lubricant.

While looking at saws, I heard that some folks do inlay with a tilting table instead of head. So I thought I would try it! Keep in mind I just drew a shape on a scrap and grabbed a scrap of a different color. Blue taped them together, set the table at 2 degrees and cut one round in a clockwise direction. The boards weren't actually flat...and they were different thicknesses also...and I had the speed cranked wide open. But I guess it worked...sort of. The bottom did come out, and I could push the top into the bottom , with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet I'm just not sure where you put the hole for the blade? The outside of the top board is scrap...and the inside of the bottom board is scrap... Much larger hole than I needed, but I didn't take time to change the bit for a scrap test. Now that I know I can do it, I'll have to watch some videos and see the details that I missed.

Not exactly the spitting image I had hoped for but recognizable I think thanks to his "mate". I thought it only fitting that the backer be khaki.

Sadly it's normal, however this is a little more than normal. I sand, remove dust, apply finish allow to cure, apply pattern, cut.

Glad none of you guys live around here. I let the cat out of the bag!

I think it's more fun since you don't always find stuff. I'll probably go back and buy more oil. Doesn't seem like I'm spending as much if I do it a little at a time. I buy all my brushes for staining there. They have really decent brushers for less than a dollar.

The hole is way to big, you need to get the smallest drill possible for the blade you are using, I use a pegas MG #3 and a 61 drill bit Start the hole IN the inlay piece close to the line (but not on it), I prefer right at a corner, not in the back ground piece. Then you mix up some glue and saw dust into a paste and fill the hole. In your bell I would put the hole at the bottom where the base line starts to curve down In the cat below I put the hole at corner in between the legs at the corner, and on the butterfly on the right side where the wing ducks in and out again

Looks pretty darn good to me.. I've done this a couple times.. pretty much on scrap too, LOL.. Keep saying I'm going to do more of it one day.. but then orders come and gets me sidetracked.. then I forget what I had started etc.. LOL Another thing I want to try at is Intarsia .. Someday I'll do it..

Yes I used WD-40 but it's not really a lubricant and I don't like using it for that as it is very corrosive.. Since I was out of PB Blasters Garage Door Lube I used the WD-40.. The Garage Door stuff is awesome.. It's a dry lube and I think it's silicone with Teflon added.. awesome stuff.. that's why it's gone.. I went crazy using that stuff on everything.. Throttle / Choke cables on my mower.. wheels on my push mower.. pushed so much easier LOL.. Bike chains and all kinds of stuff, LOL

We understand you. Great catch. Now you are stocked up for a while. Marg

Good thinking Les! I keep a magnet on both sides of my drill press head to Hold my chuck key.

It is always good to feel better!

I used up all my FD corian #3 blades and am looking for replacements. Today the first batch of test blades came in. One dozen each FD Polar skip #1, #3; Pegas Skip tooth #1, #3. I am cutting the interior of my heart boxes, 1 1/4 inch thick oak, some fairly sharp corners, same pattern for each blade, two boxes per blade type. FD-P #3 first up, fairly good cutting very smooth finish, drop out slides back and forth in the hole without binding, good tracking (didn't wander off the line) PST-3 good cutting, not as smooth finsh, one drop out would not slide all the way through, poor tracking. PST-1okay cutting, broke one blade an inch into the cut, finished the first and second box with the second blade,not as smooth a finish as FD, drop out slides back and forth , poor tracking. FD-P #1 great cutting, smooth finish, drop out slides back and forth, good tracking. I think this is the winner, especially for the sliding dovetails. I'll continue to contrast and compare these blade to one another as I make more boxes.

WOO HOO!! I did a stack cut! OK...I know it's no big deal lol. But the first one is to me... I did a 4 stack with 1/8th in. B/BB plywood, and a very easy ornament pattern. I was more interested in the mechanics of doing a stack than how intricate the pattern was. Found the patterns in Sun Catcher Studios on line. I can practice some more with Christmas ornaments then get little more interesting patterns. I used a Pegas #5 blade that I got at Woodcraft when I was in KC yesterday. Really surprised me! I don't know if I am getting better, it was the 4 stacked, or the blade but it was very easy to cut! About 1 1/2 hrs. from cutting the plywood into 5" squares on the table saw to pealing off the pattern/blue tape...which is very fast for me. It surprised me that a #5 cut that easy and smooth. Also the Pegas blade did not wander at all!! It just followed the line wherever I pointed it, and was easy to make the few sharp turns also. But I'll tell you...as a newbie taking the trip around the outside of that 4" ornament seamed to take a long time... Hey Kevin...or anyone else that does hundreds of ornaments every year. Is there a fast easy way to put a nice looking finish on them?

My dad found some old rough cut cedar planks at an estate sale a couple years ago. He gave me an idea and I expanded on it a little bit. I went online and found a bunch of horse silhouette in different poses, cut them out and stained them different colors to make a small herd. I also used a smaller piece of walnut I found lying around and thought it would be cool to try too. They turned out pretty good. I kept the smaller walnut one. I have a similar idea for some old grey barn wood and a stagecoach.

Did another Steve Good pattern. This one a NASCAR #48 Jimmie Johnson ornament! I wanted to try something in 1/8th B/BB Plywood. Yes it does cut easier! I took my projects up to the Red Barn Flea Market where I have a few woodworking things. The owner really liked it all, and wants me to make more for the store! She especially likes the hummingbird, KC Chiefs, and Buck and Doe. I told her I would also make some ornaments about this size with Christmas stuff, angels, bells, tree, etc. she thought those would sell good.

How long was that taped up.. or how old is the tape.. as that tape ages.. it gets harder to pull it up as if it gets stickier.. I've not had that happen that badly except one time when i left the project half done for about 2 years and then finished it up.. In this case.. I now will set the project out in the direct sun for about 30 minutes.. then it will peel off more normal.. you almost always get a very small amount of these splinters but not nearly that bad.. Can also use a hairdryer or heat gun to soften up the tapes glue.. Also as mentioned, I pre-sand the wood down to around 220 - 320 grit.. and clean off any sanding dust.. I use shelf liner now days instead of blue tape.. but keep blue tape on hand in case it's a real small project that would only require a couple strips of 2" wide tape..

That's beautiful work Jim. And thanks for the tips! I knew the drill bit was way too big, but was to lazy to change it on a scrap test. Just wanted to see if I could do it with a tilting table...or at all lol. I will probably get a King 16' with a tilting head. I do love your "cat box" and I saw a photo Jim Finn put up of a bunch of boxes...the possibilities are endless! How do you make your boxes? He glues them solid and I think finishes them then cuts the lid off with a band saw. I don't have a band saw...yet.

You should! I find lots of deals on paint brushes, stain, little things for the shop.

Yea...I'm going to have to dig those two titles up again and start a scroller's library. Also watch that Dave Monk video again...and pay attention this time...lol. First time I saw it I thought...maybe in a year or so. Now I'm thinking my timetable just got moved up!

From what I have been taught and read, the trick to hiding the drill holes is to start the drill bit on the waste area of the saved piece and have the drill cross over at an angle to the waste area of the lower piece. Drilling the hole at the same angle as your table is tilted prior to cutting. I wish you had access to the book that I talked about..It is all explained there in pictures. By drilling straight down, you are effecting both pieces in the same place. You have to find a way to slant drill from one side to the other.

I was a paper Crafter with an electronic cutter before I was a Scroll sawer. I often bought the Scroll Saw magazines for patterns to Convert and cut in paper. I always told the paper crafters to look for Scroll Saw patterns for more ideas. Then when I became a Scroll Saw User, I started converting some of those paper cutting patterns into Scroll Saw patterns. I think I have shared some photos of some of those I did before. Will have to see.

Great Find. I am like Kevin, we have an Ollie’s in the area, but may have been on it once, if that, so maybe I need to go and check it out.

Sounds like I need to make a trip to Ollies next time I go to Ft. Wayne.

WOW!! What a deal! Unfortunately The closest Ollies is Little Rock AR...about 200 mi. away. If I can remember to check next time we're in Hot Springs.

I get 1/4" from Lee Valley for my refrigerator magnets. They have a variety of sizes. Bought a pack at Hobby Lobby and didn't pay attention and they were .33" inch and I don't have that size Forstner bit, so they go to other brainstorms.

May head to Ollie's here in a few.

Dang I used to go there for patterns all the time.. I was thinking the other day about getting a pattern of his but had not made it there yet.. I wonder if we message him we can get an invite..

WOW! Great deal.. We have a Ollies here but I've only been in the store about 3 times since they opened up 3-4 years ago..Maybe I need to check there more often..lol

Here is the blade holders in your picture from the website. If you are using our Retrofit Kit on your scroll saw, then you are using this style of lower blade holder. For use with: 15" Scroll Saws • Penn State • Grizzley • Delta •Jet • AMT • True Value • Central Machinery • Foremost • Buffalo •United • Value Craft •Powermatic • And many other imported brand name scroll saws! 16" Scroll Saws • Sears Models 23611 & 23612 • Ryobi Model SC 160 • Dremel Models 1671 & 1695 • Northern Hydraulics Model SS16 • AMT Models 4601 & 4602 • Reliant Models DD66 & DD67 20" V.S. Scroll Saws • Jet Model JSS20VS • Tradesman 8370 • AMT 5220 • Central Machinery Cost: $12.95 per set.

The quick clamp and the clamp that these old 15" saws take are different.. and this website does show they have clamps for this saw.. Not sure if they're OEM style though or not.. Copied from the website... 4. EZ Set Blade Holder System used with 15" Scroll Saws• Penn State • Grizzly • Delta • Jet • AMT • True Value • Central Machinery • Foremost • Buffalo • United • Value Craft • Powermatic • And many other imported brand scroll saws! Cost: $24.90

Stephen Robert Irwin, nicknamed "The Crocodile Hunter", was an Australian zookeeper, conservationist and television personality. Wikipedia Born: February 22, 1962, Essendon, Australia Died: September 4, 2006, Batt Reef, Australia Spouse: Terri Irwin (m. 1992–2006) Children: Bindi Irwin, Robert Clarence Irwin Irwin died at 44, after being pierced in the heart by a stingray barb while filming an underwater documentary titled Ocean's Deadliest.[1]

Try Pozsgaidesigns.com I see they still have them for sale. I got some from them years ago. I just check their website so call them and see if they can help.

There are a lot of old Delta machines on my local C/L. Do you folks know if the blade holders will interchange between models at all? If you can run down what saws have clamps that might interchange, I might be able to put you onto used saws near me. I just found one for $30 but I'm not sure about the interchangeability of the clamps. I realize that the Delta part numbers might be different but if one model's clamp to could be made to work in another model saw, it might open some doors of availability. Let me know and I'll try to help. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/tls/d/san-diego-16-delta-scroll-saw/6986697372.html

I agree that blade may be a little too small for 7/16" thickness of plywood. Plus I find the Pagas blades a little smaller than the same sized FD blade, not sure about other brands. Might try around a Pegas #3 reverse skip for that thickness..that is what I use for around 1/2" stock, if I want to use Pegas...That is just me, doesn't make it right.

I use that size blade on 1/8" bb only, any larger and it breaks or just is too hard to control. Also try going slow. That way the blade wont heat up as much.

I rarely use a blade that small.. but plywood does chew up the blades fast... I've never broke blades like this with my DeWalt and Excalibur saws.. But every one of my Hawks will break blades when they get dull like this... Problem is.. I run a blade way too long sometimes.. also the Pegas blades seem more fragile than the FD blades.. Never break the FD blades or at least very rarely do I break them compared to the Pegas.. I get between 10-15 minutes of cutting on a blade with my Hawk.. The Excalibur get 15-20 minutes before it gets dull to the point of pushing hard to get through the wood.. Those numbers almost double when cutting solid wood.. so yeah the ply is really tough on blades..

Came out very well. thanks for posting it Dick heppnerguy

Well done Christmas Ornaments will be loved

Very nice, well done. Marg