Leaderboard

This is an Alex Fox pattern. 1/4" BB on 3/16" underlayment. 2/0 Pegas MG. 50/50 BLO. Cedar fence board frame.

Delivered these for a customer this morning. I'm really happy with the way they came out. My customers were very pleased.

Walnut Siam,an oak Jah jah

Cut this optical illusion last week, then went on a business trip and totally forgot to post it. LOL 1" Lowes whiteboard, can't remember what blade. Remember, start from the center and work outwards, don't start from one edge and just work your way around....there's two delicate pieces in the middle, that are hard to spot because of the swirly nature of the pattern. At least, they were for me.

Made these for a church event next month. Good way to use up small leftovers.

Rolf I had a Delta P20 with the cam style clamps and loved them. Used properly they were very effective, and made clamping blades quick and easy. As has been pointed out before the main issue with them was when they were adjusted improperly the result would be the bending of the lever as to much pressure was required to close the clamp. I wish some company would try to buy the rights from Delta to produce a similar design, promoted properly I think they would sell.

The hole is way to big, you need to get the smallest drill possible for the blade you are using, I use a pegas MG #3 and a 61 drill bit Start the hole IN the inlay piece close to the line (but not on it), I prefer right at a corner, not in the back ground piece. Then you mix up some glue and saw dust into a paste and fill the hole. In your bell I would put the hole at the bottom where the base line starts to curve down In the cat below I put the hole at corner in between the legs at the corner, and on the butterfly on the right side where the wing ducks in and out again

Finished this Tractor pattern by Travis, closest one I could come up with, since no one came up with a pattern that I posted a while back.

Finally had something to post......I've made these before but this is a new set for someone......made from cedar fence pickets painted....solar light in top.....comments are always welcomed......thank you

Stoney, I agree.. I have a old Delta saw that has this style clamp and also had a Delta SS350LS that had these on it.. very nice setup.. too bad they are not being made and used on many saws these days..

I took a few photos to show the pattern/tape removal for the 8 1/2" tape ScrollerOnline sells. This is one of Steve Good's personalized Ornaments. This is straight off the saw. There is no cleanup after removal other than normal light sanding to clean up fibers from sawing.

I've used blue tape, shelf liner, packing tape, and they all work, but, in my view the added work when cutting fretwork is not worth it to me. Added work - picking out all the small pieces of tape left behind after cutting I sand the piece with 220, blow it off, spray the pattern, stick it to the wood. When finished I use a sponge brush dipped in mineral spirits on the pattern, wait 30 sec and the whole thing lifts off. Dip a paper towel in the MS, wipe down the surface and let dry

I stack cut the top and bottom, the walls of the box are a single piece with the center cut out, glue the bottom to the walls. When I want a deeper box, I cut two of the walls, stack and glue them, sand the inside as needed, then glue the bottom piece

Ray, what was the name of that book, do you have a link, thx RJ

There's worse fevers to have. And you are, at this point in time, exactly one inlay ahead of myself. LOL

Thank you. I see some of the works you folks do...and my mind never stops thinking of the possibilities. I think I'm coming down with scroll fever...

Here is a picture of my first attempt at marquetry. This was done at the class I took and the material is only about .060 thick. Maybe less. Not sure. We learned shading by using hot sand. It is a lot of fun.

In my experience, I have learned to drill your starter hole on the waste side of the cut line in a corner. Once your blade is thru and set, your angle is set, begin yer cut like any other cut, and follow the line. I have to say, here again, curiosity has this ol' country boy at a stand still.

There is a clear sticky backed mylar sheet available through hobby and stationery stores called "Applique Film". It comes in 8 1/2 X 11 and can go through a laser printer or copier. The top surface is kind of frosted or semi gloss in texture. It may work with inkjet if the printer has a setting for it, since so little needs to be applied as it does not soak in. I use it mostly for power carving, printing my image on it with a computer laser printer. I carve the outlines through it, then peel it off. Then I go back and carve shape and relief into it with different shaped bits. I use an air powered carver with 1/16" shank bits, the same as used by dentists. Gun stock relief carving is similar to what I do, but I do it on cabinet doors, jewelry boxes, etc. Some years back I cut out a cross with vines and leaves, then went to work shaping the vines and leaves, cutting them back lower than the face of the cross as I shaped them. I added veining to the leaves and bark texture to the vines too. I've made 16 of these crosses. The wood used was mahogany, except for one that was white oak. The white oak took forever to look nice. It didn't carve well at all The mahogany carves really well. The cross is all one piece of wood and has a router made key hole slot in the back for hanging. It is 14" tall. Charley

Looks darn good to me! You are ahead of the curve by a long shot.

Time to think about Christmas, this is my first Christmas project this year Video of making Christmas deer Christmas deer pattern

While looking at saws, I heard that some folks do inlay with a tilting table instead of head. So I thought I would try it! Keep in mind I just drew a shape on a scrap and grabbed a scrap of a different color. Blue taped them together, set the table at 2 degrees and cut one round in a clockwise direction. The boards weren't actually flat...and they were different thicknesses also...and I had the speed cranked wide open. But I guess it worked...sort of. The bottom did come out, and I could push the top into the bottom , with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet I'm just not sure where you put the hole for the blade? The outside of the top board is scrap...and the inside of the bottom board is scrap... Much larger hole than I needed, but I didn't take time to change the bit for a scrap test. Now that I know I can do it, I'll have to watch some videos and see the details that I missed.

Nice but I wish 48 would try to put the pedal to the metal for a change

Top notch!

The trick is to use a very light spritz of glue and let it site for at least 15-20 minutes. It will be hardly tacky at all but will stay in place. Also peels right off when done. You have to play with it to get it right but once you do you it will have been worth the effort.

Great work on the Lion and on your frame Les. Thanks for showing.

I just use the suede-Tex. I didn’t know there was more than one type of fibers. Why would someone use it outside?

Check silhouette sites on the internet there are thousands to print many are in color. Christmas cards, postcards, calendar just a few ideas.

Yep, that's what I do too. It suits me.

fantastic job

Really nice work Rocky

The Art of Marquetry. I mentioned it in the earlier thread about inlay. I'm away from the book right now. Edit: Here is the author of the book in question: Craig Vandall Stevens

And I'm not too far ahead of you. I consider myself a novice but I've learned a ton from the good folks here. It's the friendliest bunch I've met yet. And the best part is they're from all over. Some that hardly ever post do BEAUTIFUL work. I'm in awe.

That is awesome Les, you did a terrific job. Marg

Looks pretty sharp. well done. Marg

Rarrr!

I have magnets scattered all over my shop. They hold lots of things in a known position so they can be found when needed. I even put one on my drill press to hold the small drill bit for entry holes. Makes it really easy to find.

Yes you do. It's no harder that what you are doing now. It's just a technique to be learned. If you get hold of that book I mentioned, it takes you through it step by step. You can adapt everything to the thickness of material that you want to work with. The only thing that really changes is the angle of your saw table or tilting head. You're way ahead of most on what you have already done.

Howdy Mr. Rocky, Good to see yer post, Sir. I have been in & out, seein' what ya guys are up to, but not much to tell about here. I'll pm ya. In my scroll projects, I use several blades in that size range, boss. Anywhere from #02 on up to a #5. I have learned, especially on my Hawk, on the smaller blades, a little more tension & and less blade speed, gets the blades to last longer, and really cuts downs blade breakage. Readin' thru some of what's already been throwed out there to ya, I ain't able to say as I go along with the wax on accounta I ain't never tried it. Plywood is hard on blades that small, as well as speed. As a rule, fretwork is fairly slow, steady cuttin'. I've found that Johnsons wax on the blades works better'n anything, an' don't seem to pester any of the lacquer or clear coat I spray on the projects.

Nice work!

Glad none of you guys live around here. I let the cat out of the bag!

From what I have been taught and read, the trick to hiding the drill holes is to start the drill bit on the waste area of the saved piece and have the drill cross over at an angle to the waste area of the lower piece. Drilling the hole at the same angle as your table is tilted prior to cutting. I wish you had access to the book that I talked about..It is all explained there in pictures. By drilling straight down, you are effecting both pieces in the same place. You have to find a way to slant drill from one side to the other.

Looks pretty darn good to me.. I've done this a couple times.. pretty much on scrap too, LOL.. Keep saying I'm going to do more of it one day.. but then orders come and gets me sidetracked.. then I forget what I had started etc.. LOL Another thing I want to try at is Intarsia .. Someday I'll do it..

I use clear shelf liner instead of painters tape.. Walmart has it for around $6 a roll.. I print my patterns on full sheet shipping labels and stick that to the shelf liner.. Works real well for me.. no messy spray glues unless I'm doing a project that requires more than one sheet of paper.. Not sure why this says around $15 because I was just at my local Walmart and it was $5.98 I think.. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Duck-Brand-1115496-Peel-N-Stick-Laminate-Adhesive-Shelf-Liner-12-x-36-ft-Clear/217108429 Since I use shipping labels for printing out the labels for mailing my products.. I buy these in large quantity so they're quite a lot cheaper than going to your local office store and buying 10-20 sheets.. I buy this about once a year.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/172818314778?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I was a paper Crafter with an electronic cutter before I was a Scroll sawer. I often bought the Scroll Saw magazines for patterns to Convert and cut in paper. I always told the paper crafters to look for Scroll Saw patterns for more ideas. Then when I became a Scroll Saw User, I started converting some of those paper cutting patterns into Scroll Saw patterns. I think I have shared some photos of some of those I did before. Will have to see.

Ever since Kevin first mentioned PB Blaster I have tried it and found it be a great lubricant, I too use it on everything But, WD40 has its uses, it will clean damn near anything. Including paint, glue, silicone, grease, etc off your hands and fingers. It will also cauterize a cut - don't ask

Dark side has the best cookies. No worries, I'm not going to start doing papercrafts....just suborning their patterns to woodcraft. Its fiendish and devious, they'll never see it comin!

I rarely use a blade that small.. but plywood does chew up the blades fast... I've never broke blades like this with my DeWalt and Excalibur saws.. But every one of my Hawks will break blades when they get dull like this... Problem is.. I run a blade way too long sometimes.. also the Pegas blades seem more fragile than the FD blades.. Never break the FD blades or at least very rarely do I break them compared to the Pegas.. I get between 10-15 minutes of cutting on a blade with my Hawk.. The Excalibur get 15-20 minutes before it gets dull to the point of pushing hard to get through the wood.. Those numbers almost double when cutting solid wood.. so yeah the ply is really tough on blades..

Quite honestly now days.. I pretty much use Pegas.. I didn't like the Pegas on the DeWalt at first as it was a aggressive cutting saw.. but did eventually get used to using them with the DeWalt before I sold it and got the new Hawk..

My go to blade is still FD. I have tried Pegas MGT and could not cut a square corner at all. I do a lot of key chains and so it was and issue. Went back to Fd-UR and not an problem. I think the MGT are just a little more aggressive. I have come to the conclusion that most blades are basically the same it is just what you get used to. I have friends who will only use Olsen hate FD and MGT. Practice with one blade and it will become your favorite BEST blade ever. Don PS: I buy FD blades by the gross and they cost me only $4 a doz CDN with shipping. Pegas from Canada cost nearly $7. Maybe my Scotch blood sways my opinion too.