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This is #3 of a series of 12. The patterns are by the late Dirk Boelman, and I purchased the set from Scroller Online, but they no longer list these. I used 1/4" Walnut scraps. It is approximately 5" high. I make these wile I wait for the glue to dry on other projects. I used FD UR #1 blades and finished with one coat sanding sealer and two coats spray Polyurethane Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

THANK YOU to all who ordered patterns in September. A record breaking month of 380 patterns sold (avg is around 150). Along with custom pattern orders, Harvey was going to receive $1430 and I chose to match the number and round it up a little in order to get it to $3,000. If it weren't for Harvey, I wouldn't be where I am today, enjoying my hobby of making puzzles and selling thousands of them the past 3 years. I hope that he accepts this small token of appreciation, by all of us, for him and his work. I'm mailing his September sales report and check to him today. Thank you again, Iggy

Finished up the second CHIEFS plaque. I enlarged the arrowhead an inch and redid the CHIEFS enlarging and moved the spacing slightly. This one went smooth and quickly! I knew the problems I ran into on the first, thanks for all the help guys, and I used Pegas #5. I think this one's good enough to sell...? Watcha think? Would you sell as is...or do a frame?

My dad found some old rough cut cedar planks at an estate sale a couple years ago. He gave me an idea and I expanded on it a little bit. I went online and found a bunch of horse silhouette in different poses, cut them out and stained them different colors to make a small herd. I also used a smaller piece of walnut I found lying around and thought it would be cool to try too. They turned out pretty good. I kept the smaller walnut one. I have a similar idea for some old grey barn wood and a stagecoach.

Delivered these for a customer this morning. I'm really happy with the way they came out. My customers were very pleased.

The Hawk and Hegner tables are aluminum. Aluminum oxidation will always rub off unless polished to a mirror finish which is hard to keep. The Masonite or counter top material (can't remember the name now) works or use Kevin's methods. I don't worry much about the back anyway as there is usually a backer on the things I cut.

Here's a cute little sign for the people who are hooked on using UBER. I wonder if they had these in the old days? Download from my Free Pattern Page I'm making some toy trucks for a customer and needed a lot of wheels, so rather than cut them one by one with a scroll saw or hole saw, I use this bulk method. If you need a lot of wheels and don't want to buy them, you might find this method interesting. I'll be publishing a more detailed video later on. Check Out Video on YouTube

I turn mine off and just let my hands and the saw do all the work.

Thanks. I use Shellac 50% with denatured alcohol. This makes a thin solution that I dip projects into. It is quick drying and when dried, a light sanding with a Mac Mop.

Not exactly the spitting image I had hoped for but recognizable I think thanks to his "mate". I thought it only fitting that the backer be khaki.

Poplar burl slab, 18 X 18 inches, pattern by Janevski. Cut with Sawbird 2/0 spirals. Burl was harvested locally by fellow woodworker, also got some birch and red willow slabs. Jeff

I have never had black marks on my Hegner. I do not cut sap wood or anything like it. I do clean it occasionally with mineral spirits or alcohol and then wax with Johnson's Paste Wax.

I often check prices at HomeDepot or others against Amazon. It is hard to beat Amazon one day delivery. For more expensive things on Amazon, I use CamelCamelCamel.com to look at price history. Prices there seem to change prices a lot over time and you can set a price alert for a certain level.

@Rustynail, I just checked out his videos and he pretty much uses the same technique that I learned. Thanks for the tip. I will use what I learned when doing inlay. What I came to realize is that once you have a completed marquetry panel, you have to find a project to use it on. I think doing inlay on a box or a bowl bottom is more useful. It's the technique that counts.

I think it is not worth looking for when you can order it from home on you cell phone. Often next day delivery depending on where you live. I find myself using Amazon more all the time. And their selections are outstanding. Easier than spending time and gas looking for things. That being said, I sometimes feel guilty not using local vendors. A sign of the times.

I have gone out shopping for RO Sanders and found big differences in How my hand fits. My criteria are hand fit, vibration and dust control. The HF did not fit my hands but may be fine for others.

My woodworking club just bought some ridgid sanders so far they seem to be fine. The lifetime warranty is a plus as long as you register it.

Made these for a church event next month. Good way to use up small leftovers.

Will if it is cast iron it does not get attracted to a magnet. At least mine doesn't. My Seyco is steel plate. Definantly likes magnets, I think my Ex was the same.

Pretty sure the Hegner's have a cast iron table, Hawks have cast Aluminum... Aluminum I could see doing that.. as it's softer than steel / iron.. But my Hawks don't do this one bit.. but my DeWalt sure did it... The EX table is painted and no issues with it other than paint wearing off.. I'm thinking about taking it off and having it powder coated.. Might do red or gold color instead of the silver / grey.. But the cheap side of me says to just use paint.. I have plenty of the Urethane leftovers from painting cars over the last few years to paint it several times, Even a silver color that's probably real close to the OEM color,

Finally had something to post......I've made these before but this is a new set for someone......made from cedar fence pickets painted....solar light in top.....comments are always welcomed......thank you

I enjoyed the video and your technic!!!

Projects like this stump me. Too much going on for my brain. Excellent job!!!

I've tried them all and keep coming back to gluing the pattern directly to the wood. Just my preference.

This is what my DeWalt used to do.. I had done a lot of different trail and error methods to stop it from doing this.. But for the life of me I cannot remember which one worked better.. But all the methods I mentioned in my last reply worked.. just some worked better than others. Pretty sure it was either the WD-40 or the break cleaner that I wiped the table down with and then a real good coat of wax.. Since you need to clean off the WD-40.. with a de-greaser maybe use it followed up with the brake clean then a good wax.. If the issue continues you could get the magnetic cover like Seyco puts on their table tops or clean it up good and spray a clear coat finish on it? Excalibur saw tables are painted.. I haven't had any issues with the paint on the back of my projects but it certainly is wearing off the table, LOL

Hello Bill, I believe they are made out of cast iron. That is what their website says.

What is the Hegner table made out of? I used to use a Craftsman router table. It was made of aluminum. The top wasn't smooth, but had small grooves milled into it. I suppose it was intended to help reduce total surface area and thus friction. I constantly got black marks on the wood from running it over that table. Wasn't any real big deal, as they sanded off easily. I tried paste wax once and believe it would have solved the problem, but it got in those grooves and was a pain to remove, so I abandoned the idea and just lived with the sanding.

I use Amazon a lot. I am a Prime Member because I use the Prime Music and Video a lot. In fact I plan to cut the cord as far as cable TV and simply stream. No matter what I am looking to buy and where I plan to buy it, I always find myself on Amazon reading the reviews about it. You have to take the reviews with a grain of salt but I find them valuable.

That is awesome!!! I'm sure glad I was able to help some but also sure wish I had been able to do more..

beautiful piece.

Everything sync's perfectly.Great idea to match these up!!!

Yeah I have a whole amazon wish list set up with camelcamelcamel, gotta love both the price history and the drop in price alerts. Wikibuy is another I use

Well, Pretty sure this isn't the info you seen in the past but.. My DeWalt used to get a build up of black wood sap ( pitch?) on the table right around the center hole wher the blade come through.. What I've done was spray a paper towel down with some brake cleaner ( because I had it on hand ) and wipe down the table with it, then wax the table again with my Johnson's wax.. I've also used lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, and WD-40.. The WD-40 I think might have been the best one to clean it up... however you'll want to go back over it to wash off the oils from the wd-40 with one of those other mentioned products.. There is probably a specific solution for this.. but these things are just something I already had out in the shop.. If you don't get it all cleaned off real good.. it'll quickly come back.. don't ask how I know that..

Hi Gary. I would do a champher edge using a block plane (¼" champher) cutting the corners ever so lightly to eliminate tear out. My preference would be to apply same finish throughout but darkning the edge would look okay as well.

I just received a roll of 3M Scotch 2080 from Amazon today. I is specifically made for delicate release.

I bought a refurbished Dremel 1800 scroll saw from CPO years ago.. first one that came wouldn't work.. but they provided a label for me to print and I had to drop the saw off at the local UPS store.. they sent another once tracking showed I had dropped the one off.. That one worked very well for me for a couple years.. I bought two 1/4 sheet sanders, my hand held circular saw, miter saw, and cordless drill from bigskytool all of them was refurbished.. and everything so far that I've bought has worked really well for me.. I think I'bought more than that from them.. but these are the things I remember off the top of my head.. They used to be cheaper than CPO Outlet on some things.. back in the day.. I haven't followed along with them in quite a few years now so I don't know how well their stuff is priced etc.. Mostly because the stuff I got is still working, LOL.. and other things they haven't had or I got a good deal locally.. so just haven't done any business with them since around 2008-9 https://bigskytool.com/hitachi-reconditioned-tools.html

Yeah.. that's what I was thinking..

Very nicely done--- looks like an eye-test or a trivet?

Here is a picture of my first attempt at marquetry. This was done at the class I took and the material is only about .060 thick. Maybe less. Not sure. We learned shading by using hot sand. It is a lot of fun.

Looks to be a 8N. Tell by the back wheels. The 2N and the 9N had different rims. Picture of my 8N. 1949 year older than me.

Looks pretty darn good to me.. I've done this a couple times.. pretty much on scrap too, LOL.. Keep saying I'm going to do more of it one day.. but then orders come and gets me sidetracked.. then I forget what I had started etc.. LOL Another thing I want to try at is Intarsia .. Someday I'll do it..

What a wild ride this projects been, a month late as I forgot about it. The printer was giving me fits,nothing was easy but I stuck to it and he should like it.8"x 10.75" 3/4" ply coated with triple thick glaze. The letters are cut from Walnut and filled with glue to add to the look.

OK, now that you have that out of the way, it's off to the races, right? I've been cutting Christmas ornaments for 25+ years, giving dozens away every year to friends and family. I gave away over 100 last year. For those kinds of quantities, I've found that spraying is the most efficient method of applying a finish. I use shellac, because of the low odor and fast drying time. I can generally get all of my ornaments sprayed with 2-3 coats, (both sides) in one full day (maybe 10 hours). I've dipped in oil before and while I like it, I don't do it very often. For me, it's messier and more time consuming. YMMV

Outstanding looking, looks like there is not a lot holding it all together just hope it stays that way. Great cut and wood choice. jim

Also the Pegas blade did not wander at all!! It just followed the line wherever I pointed it, and was easy to make the few sharp turns also. I found that to be true too, the pegas #3 is my goto blade When I make ornaments and puzzles, I dip the item in Watco oil finish, let it dry on a paper towel and wipe off the excess.

Well I learnt something new today. I always thought that he was born in Queensland had no idea he was born in Essendon Victoria, about an hour and a half from me. Great work On the pattern and cutting, well done. Marg

I'm not into Halloween but I can see myself making those. Really a lot of fun.

WOW, don't know how that happened but welcome to the Village Rick. You're gonna like it here.

WOW, you have been very creative. A project well done!