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Hello everyone, here is one of the first Halloween themed pieces that I just finished cutting. It is a Steve Good pattern made out of 3/4" poplar. Trying to get geared up for a craft show that is the weekend prior to Halloween. Thanks Jim

Been cut along time ago but just could not,t get my thinking right to assemble

I ordered a brand new King 16" scroll saw!! I was going to drive up to Woodcraft in KC yesterday morning, over 2 hrs., but I called as soon as they opened. The guy I wanted to talk to wasn't working so another guy checked all over the store and could only find the floor display, none still in the box. I prefer to get one in the sealed box so I know there is nothing missing and that it's not a return. He found 8 in the warehouse and being first thing Monday, said we should have no trouble getting one of those. I actually bought it Monday, the last day of the sale, so I got the discount. Glad I called first ! They wanted $130 for the stand...I can do better than that. Will probably build a bench for the shop and look for a metal stand to easily unbolt for travel. Can't wait for my new toy !!!!!

Here is a photo of an out-door awning project that my wife and I completed recently. Mind you, I am 64 years old and my wife is slightly younger and we finished this in 7 days. It is approximately 14' wide by 22' long. Handling those 14' 2' x 6' x 14' rafters was a bit of a work-out but, we managed well for a couple of novices. I don't know who the old geezer is having a smoke on our newly completed deck but, I suppose that just shows that it serves its purpose to have a comfortable place to sit out-side and still be sheltered. It has a standing ridge metal roof which extends beneath the gutters on the sun room on the right side and the gutters on the house in the back. The front side extends about 19 inches over the posts and the left edge extends about 24" beyond the posts. Thanks for looking and God Bless! Spirithorse

This a pattern by Don from Brooklyn., another one of our generous scrollers! It is of the my retina specialist who saved my eyesight. Had it not be for him I would not be scrolling. 1/2" oak, #5 Pegas MG. Yet to be finished.

Old ship by Thomas J. Mullane Jr. 11 x 14 within a 16 x 20 frame. ⅛” BB with black foam backing (stack cut 3).

I have MS in a pump spray bottle, sort of like a Windex bottle. I spritz it on, let it set a few minutes and the pattern pulls right off. I apply a little more to the wood and wipe/scrub to get any remaining residue off.

after you wipe, brush it on, and you start to lift the pattern, if it sticks, wait a little more and if necessary give it another touch of MS. In my experience the pattern should lift off just as easily as picking up a regular piece of paper @Scrappile Great cutting

This is just for information. JT had posted a 3M/Scotch tape web page some time ago listing the different specs. on their tapes. Should be on here somewhere. It is informative. I have Scotch 2080. One roll is blue 1-1/2", the other is lavender 2" Both are for light release. The other roll I have is 2090 blue, 2" and sticks like gangbusters. It is too strong for my use.

I just wipe it on, let it set about 5 seconds and pull the pattern off. Wipe the residue off with mineral spirits. Doesn't always happen this nicely but most the time... The ghost one is the pattern after cutting the picture and lifting it off with quick mineral spirits soak.

This is #3 of a series of 12. The patterns are by the late Dirk Boelman, and I purchased the set from Scroller Online, but they no longer list these. I used 1/4" Walnut scraps. It is approximately 5" high. I make these wile I wait for the glue to dry on other projects. I used FD UR #1 blades and finished with one coat sanding sealer and two coats spray Polyurethane Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

I just found a renewed Dewalt on Amazon for $340. I have a regular Hitachi 12 inch saw now and I really like it. I'm trying to sell it on Facebook now. I sold my Craftsman radial arm saw yesterday.it took up to much room and I hardly ever used it. I will check out the sights you gave me Kevin.

Kevin, thx for the information, not looking right now, but in the future might come in handy, RJ

Well from the look of those wood fibers I thought it was cheap plywood! That is definitely not normal.

Congrats, I think you'll love that saw.. Quite an upgrade from your current saw... look forward to hearing how you like it and of coarse there better be some pictures, LOL

congrats, I always enjoy it when Christmas comes early

Hi Jim Have to agree with you about your statement of not being a expert You are a "WIZARD" at what you do and a "WIZARD" is way above an expert Keep up the great work and look forward to seeing more of your wizardry Fab4

Well from what Jim Finn is saying they can have either or. Maybe depends on the model or age.

Looks wonderful. Why the 6 degrees? Won't that leave a hole farther from the edge of the pattern? Just would like to understand. I cant't see an entry hole on your photo.

Kevin, unfortunately I have to go to Harbor Fright tomorrow and return the defective magnetic pick-up tool I bought there. It refuses to stick to my Hegner. Not sure why so I may just get a replacement to see if that works. Heh, heh

Having done thousands of inlays does not make me an expert.( but I have sold them all ! ). I tilt my table at about 2 degrees but I drill my 1/16' starter hole at about 6 degrees just inside the image side of the line with the wood to be inlayed under the background wood. Here is a photo of my very first attempt! (I sold it) )

I had this same problem. I found that my 2008 Polymax-3 had an iron table (no problem there) and my 1986 Multimax-3 has an aluminum table and this is were I had this problem. I tried a few solutions but finally just applied a 1/8" painted, Masonite top to the aluminum table and solved the issue!

WOW!! Unreal...the piece itself is awesome!!! And the pattern also...amazing!

Congrads, keep us posted with pictures when you receive the saw, RJ

Finished this Tractor pattern by Travis, closest one I could come up with, since no one came up with a pattern that I posted a while back.

I'm looking too, is it a round or V belt? If a round belt would work there are places that still produce them for treadle sewing machines. I'll check back with that site a friend uses in a day or two.

Ron, that is a work of art. Framing really sets it on the next level. I use black mat board as my backing, but of course I get them free.

Ron, that is beautiful. Your pictures always look so professional with the framing and matting. What tools does one need to do that matting? I have wanted to try that, but do not know where to begin. I have that pattern in my stash.

The matting and frame do a brilliant job of setting off your excellent scroll work.

https://www.seyco.com/seyco-st-21-swing-tilt-scroll-saw/

What you are referring to, Jim, is the Seyco Scroll Saw.

very nice job

While looking at saws, I heard that some folks do inlay with a tilting table instead of head. So I thought I would try it! Keep in mind I just drew a shape on a scrap and grabbed a scrap of a different color. Blue taped them together, set the table at 2 degrees and cut one round in a clockwise direction. The boards weren't actually flat...and they were different thicknesses also...and I had the speed cranked wide open. But I guess it worked...sort of. The bottom did come out, and I could push the top into the bottom , with a little persuasion from a rubber mallet I'm just not sure where you put the hole for the blade? The outside of the top board is scrap...and the inside of the bottom board is scrap... Much larger hole than I needed, but I didn't take time to change the bit for a scrap test. Now that I know I can do it, I'll have to watch some videos and see the details that I missed.

The reson for the six degree angle of the starter hole is because I use a 1/16" drill bit . A smaller bit could use less of an angle, true, but using a smaller bit does not work well for me because if the blade just barely fits through the starter hole the tensioned blade will hold the wood at too big an angle and can bend or break the blade. Here is a trick I recently learned about hiding the starter hole. If after doing your inlay cut out and before gluing it in place , if the starter hole will be visible I lightly sand it away at the top surface and the bottom surface in the to be inlayed wood and in the background wood. I then glue the inlay in place and after the glue has set I use filler, made from glue and sanding dust and apply it. Now the starter hole just looks like a very slight wide spot in the outline. If one does not know where it is it is very hard to find.

And scroll you do!!! Great control Les. Sometimes we need a little help to keep going. Very well done sir!

Very sharp. Love the wood. Well done. Marg

Priceless Les. Beautiful work.

very good looking ,nice job scrolling friend!!!

Will if it is cast iron it does not get attracted to a magnet. At least mine doesn't. My Seyco is steel plate. Definantly likes magnets, I think my Ex was the same.

THANK YOU to all who ordered patterns in September. A record breaking month of 380 patterns sold (avg is around 150). Along with custom pattern orders, Harvey was going to receive $1430 and I chose to match the number and round it up a little in order to get it to $3,000. If it weren't for Harvey, I wouldn't be where I am today, enjoying my hobby of making puzzles and selling thousands of them the past 3 years. I hope that he accepts this small token of appreciation, by all of us, for him and his work. I'm mailing his September sales report and check to him today. Thank you again, Iggy

Nice one I have one on the back of my door for my pliers. ps: Forgot to say I have small ones in end of a few pencils scattered around the shop to find a pencil when I want one.

Check silhouette sites on the internet there are thousands to print many are in color. Christmas cards, postcards, calendar just a few ideas.

No wood lathe here...some day I'll get a small one as I would like to try turning pens. But that's another time I may try to come up with something on Inkscape for a frig magnet. I could take a state ornament and shrink the center part...? How do you stick the magnet on...epoxy ?

I freelance cut them on a wood lathe.

I have magnets scattered all over my shop. They hold lots of things in a known position so they can be found when needed. I even put one on my drill press to hold the small drill bit for entry holes. Makes it really easy to find.

That's beautiful work Jim. And thanks for the tips! I knew the drill bit was way too big, but was to lazy to change it on a scrap test. Just wanted to see if I could do it with a tilting table...or at all lol. I will probably get a King 16' with a tilting head. I do love your "cat box" and I saw a photo Jim Finn put up of a bunch of boxes...the possibilities are endless! How do you make your boxes? He glues them solid and I think finishes them then cuts the lid off with a band saw. I don't have a band saw...yet.

The hole is way to big, you need to get the smallest drill possible for the blade you are using, I use a pegas MG #3 and a 61 drill bit Start the hole IN the inlay piece close to the line (but not on it), I prefer right at a corner, not in the back ground piece. Then you mix up some glue and saw dust into a paste and fill the hole. In your bell I would put the hole at the bottom where the base line starts to curve down In the cat below I put the hole at corner in between the legs at the corner, and on the butterfly on the right side where the wing ducks in and out again

Compare the MG with the standard Pegas. The tooth is longer, and the throat is arced. Both of those would modify the geometry of the blade, I would think.

Search for sewing machine belts on ebay and Amazon, there's plenty about, It's what I use on my two Hobbies A1 treadle fret saws. happy scrolling Steve

Try this web site they may be able to connect you with a supplier for what you need. http://www.footpoweredmachinery.com/