Leaderboard

One of Mr. Good’s newer patterns. I thought it was neat. The wife loves horses so maybe I’ll get a brownie point. The base is a piece of and old plum tree limb. One is before I stained it and sprayed it with polyurethane.

I do love doing segmentation cutting. Makes an animal portrait come alive... I did this one today.

Pattern from the library by Janevski . Stack cut two using 1/8" BBPLY used FD 3/0 spiral blade. Went slow with lots of tension on the blade as suggested by Kevin.

Had to redo Jeanie as the glass broke to help someone in dire need at the moment. And my favorite cat for my friend.can,t remember if I just posted this.the cats whiskers are thin solder wirel

I could not pass up the chance to buy a used Hawk G4 26 off of criegs list. It is about a 2006 and has seen lots of use but seems to cut well. I paid $250 for it. Came with extra blade clamps, a light, and a stand. I now have two Hegners and a Jet but this Hawk is the only one with speed control. All my others are single speed motors. I have not figured out how to get enough tension on the blade I want but tomorrow I will work on that.

It's been a long time since I've posted any scroll work and even longer since I've made jigsaw puzzles. This is my amateur radio confirmation card (QSL). It is two-sided, attached to 1/8" BB ply, coated with 3 light coats of Rust-oleum Triple Thick Glaze. I did this just for fun and see what I can improve on. Photography is one thing I can improve on.

made from a pattern by Diana Thompson

I have a daughter getting married in January. They've been a couple for 16 years and have lived together for a decade. They have a mortgage, car payments, 2 cats and a dog. I guess that's "commitment" in the 21st century. Anyway I tried to make a pattern with Inkscape, without success, and found this on Pinterest . I snagged a copy and enlarged a lot. Replaced the date and gave it a go. It's not perfect, you can see it doesn't 'flow'. This was my first attempt at this type of project. The stock is 7/16" cherry finished with mineral oil. But all things considered I'm pretty happy with it. And over the moon about the wedding. Maybe I'll get to be a granddad yet - who knows??? Thanks for looking. Comments welcome.

Yesterday was the first show of the year. a local cdhurch athat I had ever used the croud was light ( real lite) I had 11 sales but I sold $189 I finally sold my last train ( steam engin with smoke) for $60 That is the 3rd one . So it wasn't a complete bust My next sale will be on the 21at then the 23 hopeing for better days. IKE

The G4 has the lower arms extended out through the angle mechanism so instead of reaching around behind that to insert the blade holder into the arm you can do it right in front.. The blade holders are different.. and the lower arm on the Ultra has two slots where the blade holder will fit into ( front spot is for cutting thin wood or less aggressive of cut.. and the back spot is for thick wood or a more aggressive cut) The G4 has the whole head of the lower arm that is on a threaded cap screw that you can adjust the position variably.. The G4 and the new BM series saws are almost identical.. The biggest real difference is the motor on the BM series went to a better higher torque motor with a different bearing set up there the motor shaft and the connecting rod hooks up to the lower arm.. This bearing and counter weight deal makes for a smoother running saw with the BM series.. otherwise it's basically the same saw.. The redesigned blade holders with the combination of the lower arm positioned out in front of the angle mechanism allows for these saws to be top or bottom feed saws..

While speed control is not an absolute requirement you sure will love it.

I cut the Baby Elephant from Judy Peterson's new book called "Baby Animals". It is another one of her great puzzle books. One really great thing about the book is that she has a lot or good information for people new at cutting her puzzles. I cut the Baby Elephant puzzles using a #5 FD Polar blade from 3/4" cherry. The puzzle pieces were sanded lightly using a Mac Mop. It removes any fuzzies and rounds the edges slightly to make putting the puzzle together easier. The puzzle was finished with Danish Oil and then a finishing wax and buffed. I also make a puzzle tray to put it together in. The tray is made of a 1/2" BB with a cut out of the puzzle and a 1/4" BB backing. The tray was finished with shellac. I also made another version of the puzzle which is easier and made for younger children. I used the outline of the Baby Elelphant and then drew in easier pieces and keys., Judy Peterson covers doing this in her book.

Had a great day at the show yesterday, pulled in $377 which tops last year, sold a lot of $5 ornaments those small items really add up, now I have to go and buy more wood and replenish what I sold, looks like I will be putting in a lot of overtime, and still have a couple orders to fill. The traffic was very good and they did a good job on advertising, which the last show I did they didn't advertise, only put it in the school bulletin.

Like everyone else, find a blade you like. I have all three major brands and switch according to the job, but most of the time I fall back to FD-UR. It is all in how the driver feels about the blade/wood combination.

I use mostly Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades in sizes 1,3,5 and 7. I cut all styles of scroll work in mostly hardwoods and a little Baltic plywood. I have tried Pegas blades including the Modified Geometry blades. They are fine blades but not good enough to change over to them. My suggestion to you is to try different blades to find what works for you.

Pegas blades are good, no doubt, if I were you, I would get a few different to try. I, like you was FD only for a long time, but I tried the Pegas blades and there are a few that I really like and use often. I think in general, most like the Modified Geometry blades. I have tried a few of them and I find them too aggressive for what I like to do. I do like Pegas Reverse Skip #3 and the Double Skip #1. The other one I like is the #2/0 spiral. The rest of my blades are FD. I do think Pegas are worth trying and you may like some of or all of them.

put the pattern on top of the packing tape

Be careful as stain is not like paint. There is a better than even chance that it will bleed under any type of masking. @spirithorse 's suggestion of burning the borders seems like winner.

The liquid stuff is called "liquid frisket", and is used to mask off areas where paint or stain is not needed, It is applied with a brush and can be rubbed off when the paint dries. Check with Dick Blick or other art supply stores for more information and to order.

$250 is a good price! A guy around these parts is trying to sell a used G4 for $900. Its been for sale for a long time.

I have a pen and pencil set made from plum. It is great wood and your finish made that piece really pop.

If I want to stain just certain areas, I separate the areas with a wood burner so the stain doesn't seep. Good luck and God Bless! Spirithorse

Congrats! I wish I could find a deal like that! God Bless! Spirithorse

Congrats. If I ever see a good buy like that on a G4 I will probably pick it up. I have see a few but they are usually asking around $600 or so or too far to travel for. Speed control, I think you will like, for sure. I change speed quite often depending on what I am scrolling.

@Sycamore67 My understanding of the manufacturing process is that it all starts as a roll of high tensile steel wire. That is fed through a press to flatten it, then a punch to get the teeth, and finally a cutter. Blade stretch is going to be hard to measure. I think is going to be like the Concorde airplane, it is designed to "grow" 6 inches due to the high speed friction, but it returns to normal specs very quickly - I would imagine that would be true of the blade too, heat and it stretches and before you can measure the heat dissipates and it returns to normal.

That,s too funny!!!

Simple decision to make regarding the vote I take it

I switched from FD to pegas an first thing I noticed was that the pegas blades cut straight. You don’t have to adjust for drift like for FD. The MG cut better in my opinion. Mainly use #3 & #5s

I have the Seyco vacuum system on the Pegas, so the little holes are an advantage. Not so much for you with the coin cutting.

Looks great. Like the way it looks finished.

On compound cuts I always use packing tape. Not to hold it together but to lube the blade. I always use a clamping jig to keep the pieces together. With packing tape on all four sides, I find the blade cuts cleaner and faster and helps prevent burning, and the blade lasts longer. It works for me.

Total boredom, and then being as busy as a one legged man in a ............. my experience they seem to come in waves, and yet they don't arrive together, not sure how that happens. Of course I am not talking about one of those major events with 10's of thousands of people either. My suggestion, price everything in increments of $5, makes it a lot easier, and put out a sign that sales tax is included, that stops the sales tax inspector from asking questions when he shows up, rarely but it happens. And do price the items, many people will not ask how much.

There are some compound cuts where I do not need tape but others are falling apart unless I use tape and need it to maintain alignment.

Good question... I thought I seen a G4 20" saw on eBay once a few years back.. but if it really was then it's a rare one.. They are known as a G4 but they do have a model number G426... pretty sure the eBay saw said G420.. but this was back in the days before I had much knowledge on the Hawks.. Wish I had taken better note of what it really was.. because honesty all I've been have been 26" saws.. Going to the manuals section on their site, there is only a manual for a G426 and no mention of a 20" saw..BUT... they never was good about updating their manuals etc either... so maybe the ultra 20" saw was in production all the way up until they designed the newest BM series..

Thank you gentlemen.

That's AWESOME!!! Chuck and the pattern to. Well done.

Great cutting. Cat whiskers are ingenious!

Very nice, I'm sure your brownie account will have a deposit

Now you guys have me thinking and what you say does make sense. I'm wondering if there might just be a tiny bit of slippage in the clamps that allows the blade to "bow" a bit when the tension is removed. I'm going to have to really watch and see if that is the case. I have been cleaning the ends of the blades because I have noticed that my newest batch seemed to have more oil on them. I haven't tried sanding or roughing the ends but it may come to that. I know some here do that as a general rule. I've never done it but it may just be that the Pegas clamp screws are just too shiny/slick to hold the blades firmly.

Yep, I removed it from my King also, but the holes remain, which occasionally catch a small piece. -----Randy

I m a spray glue guy all the way. No tape or other stuff, no time, money or patience for that stuff. Just a super duper light coat of spray glue on the pattern. Then you have to let it sit for at least 20 minutes. srs. It wil be barely tacky. Put it on the wood. and cut. Will come off when you are done and stay in place for cutting. Takes some fiddling with to figure it out but once you do you will never go back,

Yeah, Paul, Fab4 is in. That gives us 5 - half way to Travis’ Goal of at least 10 in honor of the 10th year Edition. We need 5 patterns from 5 more. Gals still out numbering the guys 3-2. Who else is in? I know we can do it. 6,6, we need 6, and then 7, 8, 9, and 10. (at least) I know we can get there but we need YOUR help.

Just some more of A. K. being A. K.-- as always; EXCELLENT work.

This is an interesting topic and maybe someone has measured a blade before and after use. I took some #3 FD Polar blades and compared the length new and they were all exactly the same as viewed thru a magnifying lamp. These blades have a thickness of 0.010 to 0.011". I took a blade and mounted it in my Hegner saw and tensioned it as hard as I thought reasonable and more than I would normally do. The blade had a very high pitch sound when plucked. I then ran the saw at full speed for about 10 minutes and was cutting 1/2" ash. I took the blade out and compared the length to that of several of the new ones and could not detect any difference. With the blade clamps, there is no bending or such where it goes into the clamp. Maybe there is some elastic stretching that happens which goes back to normal when taking it out of the clamp. I could not find any permanent plastic deformation of the blade that I used. Others may find something different but it would certainly be interesting for others to measure or compare their blades before and after use. Maybe other saws put more strain on the blades. It is unfortunate that one can not easily measure blade stretching with a blade in the saw. I have done this on my band saw to measure the tension on the blade. I am going to continue to think about a way of measuring the deformation of a scroll saw blade. It would really be nice to know the exact grade of steel and heat treating that the blades go thru when being made. The best I could find is a high carbon steel which is heat treated using an oil bath for quenching.

Hi Randy. I see very little difference except that the EX21 is about 6 years older. The EX21 has the Pegas blade clamps which is a must improvement. Dust collection is the same as the black EX21. I removed it when I installed the Seyco on the Pegas.

Denny, do you see any differences in the new pegas vs old ex with pegas clamps? If you have the green ex, then it wouldn’t have the dust collection holes in the table, but was interested if there were “new” enhancements. I would really like to see pegas innovate as they did with the clamps. They really need to fix the dust collection mechanism if they haven’t already. i have the king with that dust control stuff, and prefer the green ex without it.

Thanks Ray. My EX21 is still my go to saw in the shop, especially with the Pegas blade clamps.

Took a scrap piece of Cedar and made an initial necklace last night. Steve Good has this in all initials as well as a few more necklaces. I put polyurethane on it to dry overnight. Not really happy with the finish. Ideas? Poly, spray lacquer, leave bare, or ??? But it's a good way to use scrap...easy and quick too!

I agree with the others. I use Shellac diluted 50% with alcohol and the several coats of spray Polyurethane. For that one maybe clear gloss.

His & Her Memory Box. Each box is 8 ½” x 4 ¾” and 3” high. Wood used is Alo Wood, Mahogany, Holly, Ebony and Aspen. Finished with Minwax wipe on poly satin and buffed with cabinet makers wax.