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Sometimes I come home from work and catch my wife making sawdust. Here is a couple she just finished up.

I designed the pattern from a painting that I like.

Each letter has different ornament. 3 layers of birch plywood 1/8 inch (about 3 mm) Video of making project Merry Christmas pattern

A new design I put together. We'll see how it goes tomorrow at the markets. Going to be a hell of a day with a forecast 44c.

Finished cutting this yesterday. Think I’ll frame this one. Charles did a good job creating this one for sure. Any opinions on what stain to use?

No....I'm the boss......and I have her permission to say so.

Made a holder for my new business cards. Took it up to the flea market, I have a few things there, and the owner liked it so well she put it on the front counter right by the register! Her husband wants me to see if I can do something for his small engine repair business. It's another Steve Good pattern.

Very nice, I would leave it like it is, some spray lacquer and be done with it

Travis, I'm in. I just sent my five as a PM to you.

After the post in the topic regarding spray booths, I thought I'd mention my turntable. All it is is a piece of19mm chip board, about 450mm diameter. I fitted 4 small casters under it, and a 12mm (1/2") bolt protruding about 50mm (2" ) from the bottom. The bolt drops into a hole in the centre of a bench. It can easily be removed and replaced as needed.

Stencil fonts will probably work also. Cutting either folders or vinyl there has to be bridges to keep the letters shapes to spray or brush. RJF

I'm quite certain as I said before.. that it's slop in the bearings.. How about you guys try something.. Put the blade in.. apply tension.. release the tension and clamp the blade again and re tension the blade again before you even run the saw at all.. This is my method and I don't get stretch or whatever you want to call it when I do this.. My hands are already there and it's only a second more to re-do the clamping each time you move the blade.. No need for me to run the saw for a few seconds.. This is why I stand behind my theory of the slop in all of the pivot points on this type of saws.. Used to have to do the same thing on my DeWalt.. Never had to do this on any of the 3 Hawks or any of the older saws I've owned that I believe I mentioned in another replay on this thread.. If you look closely at the upper arm as you apply tension to the blade.. you can see it move / pull down.. I'm not saying it's for sure a bearing slop issue.. It may be the upper arm slop issue and it's not coming all the way down to it's resting point until it is forced to when you initially apply the tension.. Whatever it is.. it only seems to be an issue with these Ex and like saws.. If it were a blade issue.. it'd do it on all saws I would think..

Nice idea, I just "borrowed" a lazy susan we never used, couple of years later she looked for it, then she found a nice one at a yard sale for $4, win win

Charles is an amazing designer and a very nice guy to deal with. Another plus one to what Jim said. I would spray with a satin or semi gloss lacquer or poly. To me glossy makes it look like plastic. I know this would require a lot of work but it would really be amazing if the backer was blue for the water and black or brown for the horse.

Nice looking piece. +1 with Jim's comment.

This is the shelf that was in last falls issue of scroll saw wood working IKE

Decide to comment as basic user I only scroll for fun not for sales or profit. I had a dewalt & now a Delta both top feeders. I do set up initial blade from top but do most other cuts with blade connection on bottom.

Not only do Pegas clamps fix this on the Jet, they also set the blade high enough to engage bottom teeth on reverse toothed blades like Pegas Modified Geometry. They also are far easier to use. I was constantly annoyed by the Jet factory top clamp system.

Here is a picture of the set up. The John Wayne Portrait is by far my best seller. Sue Mey Crosses are popular. I make them out of 3/4 inch Poplar, Cedar, Oak, Aspen, and Walnut (when I can find boards the right size). The 3D Butterfly Cross flew (excuse the pun) off the shelves. I love the cross but hate making it if that makes sense. I also have two different types of ornaments and sell them for 2 for $5 (small) or 1 for $5 (large). They are good as well. This year Portraits are slow but steady.

Hello fellow scrollers. I'm new to scrolling and have just finished my first couple of projects which were puzzles for grandson. I'm wanting to get into building mechanical toys and other projects. I'm looking for some advice on where to get plans. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and stay well and be safe.

Beautiful!!

I follow Charles on Facebook. This is my favorite of all his patterns and you did a great job cutting it.

That's a fine idea. I've had issue with balancing some items on a lazy Susan. Thanks for the tip.

Very well done on a difficult pattern. Another vote for clear satin Poly or Lacquer.

Excellent work & hours , going to make excellent piece of work ! , should very proud .

I am of the school that the blade did not stretch. If the blade did stretch you are talking a micron or less. A micron is .00003937007874015748". Too small to detect with the human eye and too small to affect the tension. Easy to prove. Take the used blade and compare to a new unused one. I am thinking there was a slippage in the clamp or there is too much play in the bearing where the clamps (top or bottom or both) attaches to the arms.

Very well cut. Awesome job.

Very nicely cut. Charlie does some great patterns. I'd cast my vote with Jim and Be-o-Be. Just give it a couple of coats of clear. I ,personally, don't like the look of stain on Fretwork, especially when cut from Birch or pine as it tends to look blotchy. JMHO

Very nice, there are some delicate cuts there.

Top feeder 75% on my EX and Dewalt. I also have a Hegner which is a bottom feeder which accounts for most of the 25%. I am produ to be a top feeder. Yes there is a learning curve. You need to develop a feel. I started top feeding when I worked on a couple pictures that were 14 x 20.

very nice work

It really depends on the size of my project and how small my entry holes are. I top feed on large detailed fretwork. it is easy on my hawk and the EX. On most of my smaller projects I bottom feed. Top feeding becomes second nature after doing it for a while. The EX is a bit more interesting because of all the holes in the table.

that is the only draw back with a foot switch.just saying for a friend

i try top feeding every now and then but always go back to bottom feeding. i learned on bottom feeding saws and never felt the need to change. mostly all i do is fret work and i dont think it slows me down

Nice work on a wonderful pattern !

She did a very good job!! You taught her everything she knows...right?

That depends, the Jet is bottom feed because the bottom blade needs to be put is a holder first. Then the holder is placed in a clip at the bottom. Now you raise the arm and bottom feed the blade. I believe the Pegas blade chuck fixes this and allows top feeding.

Hello friends, this is a job that can decorate your centerpiece at this Christmas time Made with a router and a piece of pinewood, it is dyed with alcohol. Greetings to all and in advance a big hug for everyone

hi guys,havent posted any pics of my work for a while now ,but here are some of my most recent work, the split monograms are a quite popular piece ,and ive made quite a few, here are just a few, the Dinneens sign was made for my local drinking establishment,they had a leaded glass window in this design,

That's a lot of dogs. Must be one hound of a Xmas when they all gather around the Xmas tree... LOL Like what you've done. Beautiful work Dick

Perfect work!!!

That's good to know, Dick! They all look fantastic. God Bless! Spirithorse

i tried that top feeding on my EX. i couldnt get the hang of it so went back to being a bottom feeder.

I guess I am not alone on how I finish. I just don't seem to get what I am after when I do. I will talk with Scrappile in a couple of weeks as we will be back up in Oregon so I will bless him with my visit. Of course, I will need to just sneak up to his house so he can't take off and hide from me Dick heppnerguy

That is pretty much what I do too. Maybe one needs to take that cap off the can first, but I have found after doing that, I need to keep buying more of them.. Cheaper to leave the cap on them Dick heppnerguy

And you were. Especially difficult with the aggressive teeth that blade has.

When I top feed, I release the blade from both clamps, thread the blade through the piece and table hole and then reclamp the blade. Sounds slow and awkward, but I can do it pretty fast. I don't even raise the top arm to do it. I cannot feed a #2/0 blade down through the piece of wood, through a hole drilled with a #65-#70 bit, with it clamped in the top arm without destroying the blade. I can get it done with the method I describe faster than it take my Fein Vac to automatically shut off once I stop scrolling to change to another hole,,, most times anyway. The only problem I have with it is if I go back to bottom seeding after doing my method of top feeding for a while, I forget I am bottom feeding, reach down and release the bottom clamp and there goes my blade to the floor.... Then I slap my forehead, reach for my magnet on a stick tool and retrieve my blade and get setup to scroll again.

I am also a bottom feeder, even though my saw can top feed. My first saw was a bottom only and it is a habit I just can not break.

Another bottom feeder checking in. Every once in awhile I get it in my head to give top feeding another shot and every time I do I quickly realize its not for me.

I,m a bottom feeder,I tried the other way,just couldn't get in the habit.