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I’m making gifts for my family. The hard part is finding the time.

I got this commission order for this Kleenex box from a very good friend, after she saw a different pattern that I had cut before (tulips) it is from Sue Mey. She wanted roses pattern, well over 320 holes later, here is the finished project. I even double the sides so I cut 2 at once. Will not make money on this, cost of pattern, wood and other material over $25 spent at least 4 hours cutting and I might get $40 for the Kleenex box. We never get rich in this hobby, we make families and friends very happy.

Steve Good mini nativities. Made 47 of them to give to each family in our church. My wife helped to put them together. Stack cut 4 at a time out of 1/8” plywood.

A plaque and Christmas tree ornaments for whole staff.

Just finished these. Two more patterns that Brenda was able to do for me. I was worried about the 48th st. Market one because it looked a little tricky to do but she knocked it out of the park. Thanks again Brenda for all your help. I really appreciate it.

Just a clarification on who is making what . . . . and stuff. All EX type saws except Excalibur, are made in the same factory in Taiwan, these include Jet, Seyco, King, Excelsior, Axminster, Pegas, and Carbatec. This is the same factory that made Excalibur when it originally left Canada many years ago. After the move to Taiwan, there were some improvements/tweaks to the design, then a few years later, starting with the anniversary edition, further changes. So the Taiwan factory was the original factory for the last two design iterations. This is why I don't consider saws coming from the Taiwan factory Knock-Offs. There are a few differences in Jet and Seyco (and clamps on Pegas), but the guts of these saws are very similar. King Canada markets the same saw as "Excelsior" in Canada, and "King" in the U.S. When General (owner of Excalibur brand) got a new owner from China, there was some "drama" between General (Excalibur) and this Taiwan factory, so General tried to move manufacturing to a factory in China. That transition did not go well, and quality out of the Chinese factory is very suspect. Seyco will not support any saw made in China, so luckily, there doesn't seem to be a lot of New Excaliburs out there. I suppose it is just semantics, but I do not consider saws coming off the same manufacturing line as they have for years knockoffs, but think of those as re-brands. Not sure what to call the version of Excalibur that is now coming out of China, but they certainly don't deserve the Excalibur name.

Oh be careful about downplaying the Dewalt saw here. There are people that truely love them and they get brought up all the time. I myself was a huge RBI guy as you probably remember but like with everything when they sold the business they went down hill and I do not recommend an RBI to anyone any more. Seems like the new player which it too is another clone of the Dewalt/ Excalibur, is the Pegas. By the way glad it worked out.

Hey John (JT) You da man tonight . i knew I would wonder all might about your suggestion if I had not gone out in the cold and checked it so I did. You were right. There IS a replaceable fuse in that saw and it is where you said it should be. Anybody just looking at where the cord plugs in would never have noticed or guessed that there is a tiny removable plastic panel directly below the plug. It even shows a picture of a fuse in the molded plastic.Hard to get off but I pried it out with a pocket knife . The whole little plastic retainer pops out and it has a miniature fuse in it. . I took it out and while it didn't look open , I checked it with my ohm meter and indeed it was open . I do have a box of various fuses from way back and was lucky to have a replacement. Put it in the retainer and pushed it back into the slot . .Then hit the switch and the saw fired up .I was so happy to see that and I thank you very much for your suggestion. I will still be selling that saw early in the new year after finding it is a clone of a Dewalt in disguise with a a few added features .I will never trust a DeWalt scroll saw in my shop after all the hell myself and so many others have gone through with them in the past. I will get rid of it while I am ahead and at least I don't have to add expensive parts before I do . Where the saw is placed in my tiny 10 x 10 shop i was not able to get my camera in there to take a picture but I will unbolt it from it's wooden stand tomorrow and turn it around and try to get a very close up shot of where the fuse holder is so it might help out someone else in the future. I have never seen a fuse placed in a place like that ever before on anything. Thanks again . You made my day . . .err . . .night. . . .well , both .

I am not giving my stuff away (unless I am actually giving it away). I feel like I am putting out a clean, professional piece. I’m not in this to make a ton of dough, but I think good scrollers are underselling themselves. Your Kleenex box is intricate, well done, and the purchaser is buying directly from the craftsman/artist. If it wasn’t for a friend, I would inbed a Steve Good signature coin in the bottom, date it, supply a box of tissues and price it at least enough to cover a bar tab for two with nachos.

I sent the photo from my cell phone and forgot to turn it right side up. Here you go.

For our anniversary (last Saturday the 30th) my wife wanted me to get the Pegas blade clamps I had been wanting. They were in the mailbox when we got back from KC! Thanks Denny for such fast service! I think I saw a video on the installation, so I can install them before we go!

Poor me , another one gets their name!!! Teak ply base and 1/2" ply name. Rattle can spray

I just finished cutting Sam Costodio's pattern. I love his patterns. There has been a discussion on the accuracy between the Dremel vs Seyco drills. You may notice on my cutting the little fingernail on the man's hand is missing. I is because of the Dremel's slight inaccuracy. I can overcome this by being more careful but with the Seyco I might've avoided this. However, if I were serious I would purchase the StewMac plunge router. Regularly $299 on sale for $160 including a tilt attachment. Dremel or other not included. A very expensive piece of equipment but so precise. Made for stringed instrument makers. I'm going to live with my Dremel system but were I a bit younger I would make the plunge. Sorry for the pun!

He said he did not use the saw for a long time. Sitting out in a shed in elements could have rusted the armature abit, stiffened the grease in the bearings, or a number of things. He tried spinning the motor by hand to get it to work so this may have freed things up. The fuse blew due to the extra current to try to start. These things can happen for people who have garage shops or shed shops and have tools that sit for long periods of time. This would be my educated guess.

I had a decent show on Saturday pulled in $270 which wasn't bad for a small show of 50 vendors sold mostly Ornaments and a few cell phone holders and some bigger items, not much Christmas items left Nativity items been good sellers for me especially lighted boxes. Need to make more Ornaments. Hopefully I can survive the last show which is bigger.

This Charles Dearing Gandalf pattern took a while. I cut it out of 1/2” African Rosewood, backed in cherry. The Rosewood is all natural color wise, but I did darken the cherry behind the wizard. I also didn’t like all of the space over his staff so I did an Eagle inlay to break it up a little. This will probably be my last major scrolling on my Dewalt 788 as I got my new Pegas in a couple of days ago.

In the video of installing Pegas Blade clamps he does not show or say anything about lube. 1. Is it necessary? 2. If so what? A dab from a grease gun, a squirt of WD40 once in a while, some exotic lube?

This is a modified tree ornament of Birchwood Russell change it slightly to put a 5deg angle to stop the internal pieces from being pushed through thanks Russell. Roly

I just used some christmas ornaments and copied them on a cross, then cut it out. Sold both of them this morning at a craft show for $25.00 each......guess I'll make more....lol

Over fusing is a problem, it can cause a fire in the wiring. The designers rate the fuse based on the amount of amps (current) going through in normal running, then they add a little for surges. Increasing the amount of amps the fuse will handle before blowing, means it will be allowing too much current to flow, current flowing in wire creates heat, heat melts insulation, at some point it shorts out. arcs & sparks or just the insulation on the wire bursting into flame - neither is good

Gary, I installed mine without the benefit of a video or any sort of instructions. I just keep mine blown out and clean. I don't think it's a good idea to have anything near the clamps that might collect dust so I just leave mine dry.

Wish you the best on the new clamps, Gary

I guess you missed in my previous post that I had said it had been in a warm heated shop the whole time.By heated I mean just above freezing in the winter time except when I am going to work in there and I turn up the heat about an hour before time. My shop is so dry that I sometimes wonder if I should have a humidifier in there. Of course the first thing before even checking the switch was to put a screwdriver in the end of the motor shaft and even though it was free . I put a screwdriver bit in my cordless drill and spun it over for a while like that . I was aware of those dead spots that I had to free up like that so many times back when I had my DeWalt and apparently this is the very same interchangeable 1.6 amp motor . I have finished doing a video and am about to upload it into you tube.. . .So stay tuned .I will post it when it finishes uploading

Jim I didn’t see were he said he found the fuse either. Looked thru the threads o-well lol

Thanks for that Jim That $70.00 board in US dollars is $94.50 in Canadian dollars plus plus 35% exchange rate plus about ten bucks shipping = $104.50 plus $12% taxes to get it here = $117.04 plus the aggravation of having to replace it. Thanks to the discussion here and the help from many members I am fortunate that I will not need a new board or motor at all this time around .I am shovelling snow and turned the heater on in my shop and I will be making a video after my shop warms up that will hopefully be helpful to some .

Well that confuses things even more. Maybe the color of the saw can tell the difference in place made. I know the saws Ray is putting out now are not called Excaliburs but it would be hard pressed to tell the difference except for the tilt box he added. To me they are all clones and call it what you want. Cosmetic changes here and there. I remember when the Dewalt moved out of Canada and the mess that created and those saws still show up and cause havoc. Type #1 saws were sought after when that took place. I am guessing things calmed down with those.

Most manufacturers of similar saws except for a different name and colour like these eventually get farmed out to the country that will make them the cheapest and that nearly always means China. A picture is worth a thousand words but a video is even better . . Rather than a picture of the fuse location on my Excelsior I might do a video instead on mine that might help somebody in the future.

Great addition to the ones that go with it in the show!!!! How many do you plan on showing?

this is what im doing now

That is a great job and a wonderful gift for the church members. You do realize you will now have to do this every year?

He did write he did tv servicing. He has to know voltage and amps even it was from the vac tube days. If the fuse isn't visable, he going to have to pull the cover panels. I mentioned looking at fused cords. If its not there then its covered or soldered in line. Basic circuit tracing, follow the power. Most aren't going to trace discrete components. My background was designing electronics and consulting. I don't expect him to troubleshoot the board, but if it has power in and no power out, that greatly narrows whats wrong. RJF

You always start at power source. From outlet to saw. If you have a footswitch, eliminate that. Never go diving into a control board if you do not know what you are doing. The diagrams I am looking at for all these type clone saws show an external fuse black. Maybe disguised but there. Those that have an excaliber where is the fuse on your saw??

Probably worth digging into, its always the first time of taking it apart to see how it ticks. Its backwards design not to put in an accessible fuse holder. Most of the Radio Shacks have died, but it would be cheap for the manufacture to mail a fues. Its not like they go in one direction. RJF

Both pattern and cutting are excellent!

Really nice!!

The intricate scrolling on the second sign is, indeed, impressive.

Also, I pretty much made this for myself, but I was asked last night if I would be interested in selling it. Man, this has a lot of hours, and though not outrageously expensive for the materials, let’s just say it wasn’t Baltic Birch cheap. If I decide to offer it for sale I will set the price quite high and I’d if it doesn’t fetch what I think it should, so be it. It will go into the Old Joe Collection. LOL

Gotta keep those girls happy. Nicely done Kevin.

Heck, the man holding the bunnies is a woodworker. I'm a woodworker, I have at least one black fingernail at all times and a few bandaids also.... badge of honor....

Mr. Amazing Kevin the Fox. I think I'm getting to know who you really are. Unfortunately it's too late for me!