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Just completed these 4 key racks, another 4 on the bench. These ones will be going to a local shop. Cut from 19mm (3/4") Radiata Pine

I and my customer really liked the picture of the Russian artist Andrei Shishkin "Gamblers". I contacted the author and received his permission to make this wooden jigsaw puzzle. The result seems to be interesting. For figures, I applied the theme of playing cards of different styles and eras. You can visit the artist’s website and see many other paintings https://a-shishkin.ru/ I pasted 2 parts of the picture onto a plywood sheet. The middle will be cut two layers together. My plaing cards patterns: Two parts of the picture are precisely calibrated according to the marking and fixed together with nails. This is a couple of characters from the paintings of Andrei Shishkin:

I finally had to break down and get another saw. My EX21 completely died. It had broke the Motor Cam twice and I honestly feel that there was a problem In the Manufacturing. My Jet also is having some issues but still is working at this time. Going to keep it as a back up. I put numerous hours on these machines and I cut mostly 1/4 inch hardwood to 3/4 inch wood. I don't use plywood so it takes it toll. Most weeks I put 20 to 40 hours on the machines but at this time of year when my sales are way up I'm putting 40 to 60 hrs on it a week. Murphy's Law always kicks in too. If something breaks it is usually right after the Warranty expires right? Anyway I convinced the wife that I needed something substantial so she conceded and the Hegner 22 is on its way. It has a 7 year warranty so hopefully I can count on it to last. I didn't get all the bells and whistles just the quick release blade holder and foot pedal but that's really all I need. I have the light/Mag lamp already plus my dust control system. Won't get here in time to make a difference in my Holiday Sales, delivery date is after the 11th and my last show is the 14th. Looking forward to playing with the new toy.

I made this especially for my grandson. He will be gob smacked because I always told him that I would never cut it. Marg

To me the more teeth per inch and the depth of the teeth or the teeth gullet affect it aggressiveness. The Pegas blades I have used and do use have less teeth per inch and bigger teeth so they cut more aggressively. Just like on handsaw and even table saws. I could be wrong, there are one or two things I still don't know..... well unless I have had a few glasses of wine.... then I get smarter and smarter....

I know I have not posted anything for a while but I have been scrolling. I cut this Star Wars pattern for my grandson who is Star Wars mad. I have always told him that he could have the paper pattern but I would never cut it for him, what a surprise he is going to get on Christmas Day. The pattern is by Janevski. There are 338 individual cuts and it took me about 19 hours to do. I cut it from 2.5mm Bamboo ply. Marg

OK, bought a new Pegas 21” with stand, and foot control. Stand assembly wasn’t difficult, but they could make it easier if they numbered each part. Assembly sheet was rather vague, but I have put together enough variations of it that it was easy enough. As to the saw itself, let’s just say UPS could’ve handled it a little more carefully and I had some minor setup issues, but things seem to be A-OK now. Today I started cutting out a detailed Charles Dearing portrait pattern on a single layer of 1/4” BB for the maiden voyage, making 70 very fine cuts using mostly Pegas #1 and #2/0 spirals, and Pegas MG#3’s for a few cuts. Honestly, I wish I had done a stack cut of two, but I wanted to get acquainted with it via a single layer. General observations: I am moving up from a DW788. There were a couple of adjustments that I had to make to myself personally using the Pegas. The distance from the blade to the front edge of the table is considerably shorter, but I got used to it pretty quick. At least for now I slowed the speed down a bit, as it just seems to want to cut fast. I am a bottom feeder, and found feeding the blade to be somehow easier even though I had the Pegas clamps on the Dewalt. Then the more automated blade tensioner was a dream! I have not been a big spiral blade guy until recently and everything is much easier with them on the Pegas, especially the tension system. I didn’t bend, break, or “hockey puck” one blade over the 70 cuts. Vibration: There is virtually none. Seriously, none. I can’t articulate clearly enough on how much better than the DW788 the new saw is in that regard, even though the Dewalt is bolted to the floor, and the Pegas is just sitting on its stand, with no need to bolt it down. Appearance: The thing makes my whole studio/shop look better! The red and black looks sharp. Light: Unlike many, I really like the Dewalt light. I put an LED bulb in it a few years ago and it’s still working.I missed it today. I want to find a non-magnifying, tight radius, spot lamp ASAP, preferably a bright, LED, clamp on type. Overall: I figured that I would be happy, but I can’t understate how much better this machine is to cut with! It’s almost like I didn’t know what I was missing. I feel like I have gone from driving an old Datsun pickup to a new Lexus luxury sedan. This thing is a scrollsawer’s dream. Not sure what I will do with the DW788 yet. Though it was a good saw for me, and I have made some serious sawdust with it, I already don’t see any chance that I would go back to it.

I'm still working on several gifts of Christmas stuff. Seems like I have too much started and not enough getting done... I did finish this one which is a gift.

I've made many different kinds of these German style woodcuts. This I kept for our own to display on the mantle at Christmas.

I think we need an emoticon on each page for 'Absolutely bloody amazing and stupendous" I would use it multiple times for this Top stuff Alexey

Details

Hi, my name is Patrice Lemée and I am a metal sculptor. After seeing a clock maker use a scroll saw to cut some rather thick brass I figured I would take a look at them. I am looking to cut metals with it , mostly copper, brass, bronze etc in the 20 gauge or less range. Most of the time more in the 24-26 gauge range. The thing is the model saw he uses in in Australia so I am searching for something a little closer to home. I am located in Quebec, Canada. What I found locally (Home depot) are the cheap entry level saws but pretty sure that this is a waste of money, for my particular application anyway. Then we move to something like the classic Dewalt DW788 at around 700$ (plus 15% tax over here...oh joy) and then the Excalibur at around 1000$+tx. https://www.homedepot.ca/product/general-international-16-inch-tilting-head-scroll-saw/1001122929 My questions are: 1) How well would either of these work for my application. 2) Are there better options? As a side note, anything higher in price that I have to order from the US will boost the price around 1000$ if you factor in money exchange, shipping, duties, etc... The perfect saw for me would be this: https://www.knewconcepts.com/Precision-power-saw.php But like I said that would be at least 3500$CAN and is way above my current budget. Any help you guys (or gals) could provide would be greatly appreciated. PS: Here is my latest sculpture in case some of you are wondering what I do.

I never really paid attention to the aggressive adjective before and when I did I always related it to the blade movement. I think if you can feel the difference in blade aggressiveness based on teeth and kerf, you have much more experience and sense of touch than I have. Interesting thought though. And I agree with you on the pegas blades. I used FDUR for a couple of years and after trying the pegas MG blades hate going back to FD. Speed, the aggressiveness of the blade action, nothing helped with controlling the smaller FD blades, so not true for the pegas MG. I run my EX at about 3/4 or 7/8ths speed, I do that cause I hate sanding and if I feed the piece at a slow rate, the saw has a chance to cut off more of the fuzzy remnants from cutting, or at least it seems so to me. I can't remember who here mentioned that saw speed and feed speed were separate in some discussion, a light bulb went off so to speak, an aha moment, and all of a sudden I had more control that before.

Thanks for sharing about your new Saw. Congratulations to you. If I was in the market for a new Saw, getting one of these from Denny would be at the top of the list probably (even if it is red.) somehow, I don’t think I could sneak another one in past DH who bought me the Seyco I primarily use. Always enjoy reading and celebrating with everyone else about their new saws and reading their reviews and info. In a dream world, I would have this extremely large shop with one of each.

Thanks for the review and congratulations on the new saw. Sounds like you had about the same feeling I had when I went from a DeWalt to an new Excalibur several years ago. Now if they made a Pegas, with the same size table as the Seyco saw... They could call it the Pegco saw..... wouldn't that be great...

Thanks for the review. I think Rolf was referring to your above comment when he mentioned the front to back motion. On this style saw, there is an adjustment that can be done to make it cut more or less aggressively. If it seems like the saw is cutting too fast, you may want to dial it back a little. There should be instructions for how to do this in the manual.

I did 6 of these nativities by Steve Good. Now, I need to do two more.

Almost everyone is getting a scroll-sawn gift from me this Christmas so it's very hard for me to pick just one. But I will do so. Four people who are not expecting a gift but will get one because of their assistance to me and my family over the last year will be getting one of these, Sue Mey designed, Christmas trees:

Ok I will start this

I haven't made much of a contribution to this forum in a while - but it doesn't mean I haven't been working - (although very slowly) .... these are part of our "Gift Boxes" for family and friends this Christmas. the sleigh patterns are Sheila Landry designs. Sleigh bodies are all Cherry. Sleigh runners are either Padauk, Bloodwood or Wenge. the reindeer pattern is from a pattern that has been on the internet for many years - unfortunately I don't know the designer. the gift box's and the tree's are from the Dollar Store. Had lots of fun making these - they aren't quite done yet - have a few more reindeer to make - and a bit of final finishing with steel wool and wax all - but was getting VERY strong indications from my wife that - (finished or not) - they were going to start disappearing soon - so thought it best to take pictures now ..... Jay

Thank you Don for the pattern of turned out great and they really love it Mimi

This puzzle took a couple of months for a couple of hours each evening, approximately.

Battery cars are going to be a problem for the grid. The power companies and 'use to be the government scientist', monitors power usage, then between engineers, accountants for cost projections and math folks for statistics they project future demand. How many electric cars sold? What is there cost, if its high, few will buy. Selling lower power lighting reduces some of that demand. Expansion of industry usage or decrease of industry use also has to be figured. Even climate change has to be figured in. Areas colder, more heat use, areas warmer, more air conditioning. The grid is stressed now with lower voltage 'brown outs', surges 'over voltage' and old equipment blowing out leaving the power out. Its a design problem that means more money put in. Build more regional power plants? Build more high tension power lines to move more electricity across the country? Put windmills in the ocean? Put wave generators in the ocean? Those two are being used by other countries. I have to state engineering has specialties. Electrical engineers, Civil, Structural...It goes on and with in each specialty are more specialties.Electrical Engineering has people just designing antennas and even more special of microwave antennas. Electrical Engineers handle areas of the power grid. All engineers get a group of basics in college, then branch. I decided to go in as a Electronics Engineer and went on to specialize with automation and artificial intelligence, which has varied from designs on large arms putting cars together to putting small electronic parts in circuit boards by using 'arms' and video cameras. Also design robotics for the military and medical for surgery and have done free design to automate for disability. Right now everything is in storage. I subscribe to electronic engineering magazines and their 'lists' have added me on the a whole group of science magazines. With the grid being stressed, I've received many articles on what it is now and what may happen in the future. As a Electronics Engineer I have to not only design not only the equipment, but what the power will do to it. Say a TV is designed, if the designer only has circuits that are powered for exactly 120 volts and the voltage goes up or down either the picture fades and brightens, the volume barely works and the remote sometimes works. Everyone is unhappy cause they bought a lemon TV. The designers have to add in more cost for circuits that will keep the TV going when the voltage is bouncing. If the voltage goes too high even for the circuits, one fried TV. Engineering articles try to project what problems are coming up and possible solutions. I design as both a end user of the power grid and a semi involved member being asked, 'Is there anything that a Electronics Engineer can do to design lower power devices, or better control circuits for the power grid?" My engineering knowledge is by no means complete on the power grid. RJF

Almost any scroll saw will cut metal with the right blades.

they sell pre cut hook n loop sanding sheets, but frugal (read cheap) guy that I am, I don't see why you can't cut up a hook n loop sanding disc

I don't have one. I would be curious to see if you find it useful. My concern would be trying to find replacement sandpaper for it.

ONYA Joe, If they had them in Oz for a reasonable price I would jump on a pegas. Enjoy mate.

The person that made this is so talented I bet they could do the rubic's cube blindfolded!!! Just the figurines in intarsia is a feat in it's self, let alone the intricate puzzle design. Wonder what the IQ is of .

Bamboo is very popular in Australia because it is a very sustainable resource. It grows like a weed. It is easy to cut BUT it splinters very easily and the tiniest piece feels like a needle sticking in you. If you get some in your finger and don't get it out, it becomes infected very quickly. Baltic Birch ply is very hard to find in Australia and VERY expensive. Marg

A couple of weeks ago there was a post regarding making Sue Mey's angels for charity. I had the pattern but never thought about reducing the size. That got me thinking. I reduced and cut one and the delicate wing broke so I revised the pattern to take the veins in the wing out. I cut the 2 patterns below and my wife actually preferred the solid wing. I did some at 3 inches and some at 3 1/2 with solid wings. Done in 1/8 Baltic birch and glitter spray paint. I am going to the annual volunteers luncheon at our local support centre (Hearth Place) and should be one for everyone there (I hope as I have done 40). I will also give out the one with the open wing and the recipient will get a special gift of a wood pen. Don Love the inspiration I get here in the Village.

Dremel makes a chuck for holding small bits. It has a 1/8" shaft which will fit in any drill chuck. They are available anywhere rotary tools are sold.

I agree with those above.. But my take on what those others mean when they use the term is.. The blade is so sharp it cuts too fast for them.. I may be wrong on that but by the way some of them talk about the two blades.. that's what I gather in my tiny brain.. For what it's worth.. I used FD UR blades for 12 years..r more... When I tried the Pegas MG blade.. it cut so much easier.. that I didn't need to push the wood so hard so to speak.. which is how I like to cut.. why I run my saws about full speed.. I find that getting the cutting at a pace where I'm not pushing the wood through then those sharp corners and tight turns happen much easier.. When I take a FD blade and put it in my saw.. I instantly feel like I have to shove the wood through much harder.. Not sure I make sense but to me a new FD blade cuts like a dull Pegas blade, LOL Many people will say that they run the saw speed slow because it cuts too fast when running the saw faster..When this is said.. my first thought is they push the wood harder than I do.. and maybe harder than they should.. pushing the wood too hard into the blade makes the blade flex.. and they may not be getting accurate cuts.. I watch videos of others cutting.. when they get to the edge of the wood and the blade is about to cut through... with some of these videos you can really see that blade flex.. especially when they cut through that edge and out of the piece.. I don't try to criticize them so i never say much about this.. but they aren't letting the blade do the cutting.. If you're flexing the blade while cutting you're pushing too hard... want to cut faster? turn the saw up.. switch to a different blade so you don't push the blade too hard... everyone has a different style and speed.. and that's just how it is.. but pushing too hard you need to make a change.. with either saw speed or blades configuration.. The blade speed doesn't determine how fast / slow you cut.. the person behind the saw does... by how hard they feed the wood... I personally like the speed fast.. and just sort of glide the wood lightly following the lines.. a real smooth waxed table does wonders too.. My tables are slick enough that with those back legs higher than the front to get that tilt.. the board will slide off if I let go of it.. this prevents me from piling the table up with clutter on saws I'm not using for that day,

I don't know anything about them. Both look very "plastic" to me and not the stronger kind, but I have only looked at the pictures. I could only find one review on the Microlux one. It was pretty good. The Proxxon has several reviews on Amazon. Some good some not good at all. If they work and last, looks like a nice little tool to have for sure.

Think about the difference in say a #1 blade and a #7. The 7 is more aggressive than the 1 now wh as t if that 1 cut like the 7. Obviously exaggeration to make a point but that is how I think of blade aggressiveness.

I think too much is made of the short table. I have not noticed a problem with that. I went from a Dewalt 788 to the Ex21 and there is a difference in the table size but for me, not a big deal. Maybe if I get involved with larger projects but for now, I'm happy.

Congratulations on the new Hegner! Several excellent machines out there. I've only tried the EX21 a PS Woods and a Hawk. All were nice to cut with but the Hegners I have are the best in my opinion. Simple engineering and virtually impossible to wear out.

Rolf, I haven’t noticed any issue with front/back motion. The saw is shipped with a lot of packing materials, with a #7 blade in the clamps, and is bolted to a piece of thin plywood in the bottom of the box. The plywood was literally broken out on all four corners and the blade was broken. Certainly not the distributor’s fault. I was a bit bummed when I first saw it, but I figured pretty quickly that there wasn’t anything seriously damaged.When I set the head at zero it was off by several degrees, and off center. I had an issue with getting it zeroed in and holding a perfect true with the angle set at zero. I would set it as instructed in the directions, but the blade wasn’t holding perfectly centered. I tracked down a couple of loose Allen nuts, and wallah! problem solved. I think the head may have gotten jarred pretty good in shipping, but it wasn’t damaged per se, just needed a couple tweaks. I’m pretty persnickety and everything seemed fine yesterday. I checked the trueing with a machinist square after cutting yesterday and it was dead on.

Another one for my music guys collection

I should’ve mentioned that I ended up buying the saw through Denny Knappen’s ArtCrafters thanks to recommendations from several people on SSV. He offered the best price including shipping. Also, as I mentioned above, the saw needed some setup, due primarily to some rough handling by the shipper and Denny has been great nursing me through a couple of minor adjustment issues. I was impressed that it comes with spare parts for the eventual wearing down of the blade clamps, and also a sample pack of assorted Pegas blades. I don’t plan to hook it up to a vacuum, so I removed the hookup attachment, as it reduces the tilt range, and by all accounts it doesn’t work all that great. Incidentally, if anyone has any questions, I would be happy to try to answer them.

Well these have been talked about here and I decided to add them to my show items and hope they sell well and make great gifts for many this season as my shows start this weekend. The cocktail napkin holders. I will give people choice of color of napkins at show. If these take off I hope to add more to the lineup next year. I still think this is a cool idea. Hope others do to.

Lots of gifts this year!

Hi all... not to brag but... I sold two of my creations today!!! I'm feeling pretty proud considering that I'm technically a three week newb. I know that I didn't even make near enough to cover my time and material costs, but hey... it's worth the feeling I got from the fact that someone actually thinks it's good enough to pay me for it. These are the two pieces I sold... they are both Steve's patterns.

I completed this project yesterday on the new Pegas Scroll Saw. It is a gift for a couple celebrating their 50th. The designer is unknown. I used 1/2" Hard Maple. Cut with Pegas MGT #1 and #7 blades. The finish is two coats spray Shellac. Comments welcome.

I think I'd mount the plate on the face of the frame, just below where you have it staged. Being a different color from the frame and portrait, it will draw attention to itself without overpowering either, IMO.

That is fantastic!! My husband is a star wars nerd and would love one of these, I like your line of "you can have the paper pattern"

Amazing IKE

Amazing amount of work, beautiful. I can't imagine even trying to complete that puzzle, imagine all those cuts laying on the table.

Congrats and enjoy. I just bought the Pegas, and I'm happy, but if I did a lot of production work with solid wood, and money was no object I would get a Hegner. Fiona Kingdon knocks out an incredible amount of product, no plywood, and does it all on a single speed Hegner!

Are you talking about the small pick and heart shaped boxes? Like these I did and posted in my gallery? If so, let me go check and see which one they came from.

Another papercutting pattern corrupted for scrolling. Seven layers, and I had to order a drill bit small enough to get some of the details pilot-holed, my 1/16 was waaaay too big. Stack-cut this one. 3/8" BB ply, mostly #3 FDUR blades, did the treeline under the big dragon with an 0/2 FD spiral. Still thinking I may play with one of the two and try out an LED strip in front of the back piece. Pattern is from WildChild Designs on Etsy, he's got a lot of great patterns, some quite intricate, but papercutting and scrolling are pretty much the same things, just different mediums. Islands and bridges apply the same for both. https://www.etsy.com/listing/690043666/dragon-fantasy-lightboxlayered?utm_source=internal&utm_campaign=cyber19&ref=cyber_rv-1&pro=1