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If you liked Sam Custodio's "Mechanics" Pattern I think you will love his latest. It is available from his Facebook p;age

it is second dog pattern I made in 2019 first one was French bulldog I wanted to make more dog series I have to watch the face closely I am still under research for next dog model this is china famous? dog I love chow's face as it is cute youtube :https://youtu.be/tuUkuOW74oc I realized it looks like ma family as I got only son and one wife I bought small ribbons month ago and I guess that ribbon is sweetable for chow's family

Made my first - seven piece Nativity box some 6 months ago and entered it in the Northeast Arkansas Fair in September and it won the big Blue - and shortly afterwards received a order for 8 more . It's a Steve Good Pattern , remember when making this that the cuts need to be as precise as possible - if not will cause you a lot more sanding . It's still take some tweeting on the top lid to make it shut perfect , this project is made from 1/8" BB Plywood and the top and bottom pieces are 1/4" Walnut material and several light coats of high gloss spray lacquer with sanding in between coats . Any comments welcomed ....

The last couple of weeks have been crazy. With being in KC over Turkey Day and getting ready to head south I don't remember if I posted these. Travis did a super program and I used it to modify and cut a bunch for the grandkids. I actually did 3 more this week and sent them to the grands in FL. Will probably do more when I get to the border.

Finished finally .I,m just out of gas for doing things lately. Thanks for looking. His birthday is Sunday,2 years old.the last picture is the one they seen and wanted one.

Scott is turning me into a "Puzzle Zombie". I'm having a blast cutting these. Went to pick my cat up Mon. when we got back from KC. Showed the girl at the front desk the "Rescue" dog I cut...she went nuts and started showing it to all the girls. I cut a Scottie for her...and she loves it! She was going to put it up on a Scotty forum she's on. I may see orders from that. I also took up a Tabby cat She showed it to the DR. and she thought it was really cool. I told her if they sell one I'll donate $5 to the cat shelter they support. The Dr. liked the idea...so they are displaying the Tabby and have a pile of my business cards at the front desk by the register!! One of the other girls wanted a Jack Russell so I got it cut and wrapped before I packed up my saw...will deliver it in the morning! Love the shrink wrap idea Scott! The owner at The Rustic Barn wanted one to display also...so I wrapped the Rescue dog and put it up there! Not bad for a little word of mouth and just 4 or 5 days.

my wife asked me to make puzzle table as she got 4 iron tables from me my friend made that iron table he wanted to throw it away so I brought it so I need circle pattern for that table I draw radioactive symbols in august it also looks like pizza I size up that pattern 47cm diameter youtube :https://youtu.be/SWLea6VCGdE I used 2r round trimmer bit for corner softmaple 20t(mm) I need lots of forcep clamps 2r trimmer bit and biopa 3754 oil twice

Got my first request for a special piece. The Rustic Barn is an antique/flea market type place. I've had a few of my woodworking pieces up there for about a year and a half. I've been showing the owner and her husband, has a small engine repair shop in the next building, all the stuff I'm doing with the scroll saw. She put my Elvis up front instead of back in my space, and she put my "scroll guy" business card holder on a shelf right beside the register! The other day she said she wanted to keep a box of tissues on the front counter and wondered if I could make a tissue box cover like the one I had there for sale...but with a barn on it. I started to work on it and ran into a snag and asked for some help. Jim Ern helped me out big time...Thanks again Jim!! He sent me his take on it in SVG file so I could play around with it. I changed the font, easier to cut and space, and put a "barn" roof on it. Then cut it out of Mahogany. I put the barn on opposing sides and a flower design on the other two. Light sanding and a couple of coats of Minwax spray semi-gloss poly. and it's done! Took it up there with a couple other pieces...she loved it!! You should have seen her eyes light up when she saw it...makes all the work worthwhile. Only charged her $25...but I'll bet I'm getting a bunch more in free advertising with it and my scroller card holder kept right on the front counter where no one can miss them! And before I left she asked me if I would mind her moving my pieces up front while I'm gone, my shelf is kind of in the back of the shop at the end of an isle, I thanked her !

If you can't tell by my annoying posts, I'm having a fun time with these new key/leash/hook holders that I've started making... I've decided I'm going to change things up this Saturday at what may be my last event of the year by reducing the number of puzzles I display and showcasing about 10 of the new items and take orders for them. The dog leash holders will always be the big seller, but I think I'll get interest in other animals as well. Especially the Unicorn, Dragon and maybe BigFoot. I've sold 50 of them in the past 2 weeks so I see potential and want to really showcase them. I'll snap pictures of my modified setup and I'll do a video for my You Tube page as well.

Well, this was a learning experience. I was getting used to the new saw and using almost all spiral blades. I only used flat blades on the handful of larger cuts. I also messed around with the setup a bit as I went along. Worked on the front to back movement, had to reduce it a pinch. Got everything perfect by the end. Anyway, this is a Charles Dearing pattern of Tom Petty, cut in 1/4” BB, backed by a piece of Poplar. 306 cuts, I think.

Year of the rat is coming and i make gifts like this year.

I've made many different kinds of these German style woodcuts. This I kept for our own to display on the mantle at Christmas.

It would be great for people to tell what saw they are using any the kind of projects or thickness and type of wood. It would help me to understand the issues they describe.

Thanks to Russell (Birchbark) who made the pattern. It is three layers of plywood painted. Made two of them 5” wide each.

For our anniversary (last Saturday the 30th) my wife wanted me to get the Pegas blade clamps I had been wanting. They were in the mailbox when we got back from KC! Thanks Denny for such fast service! I think I saw a video on the installation, so I can install them before we go!

I do love them! Put them on Monday and cut with them all week. It seems to be faster to go from one hole to the next...? I don't fumble to get the blade in the right spot and pushed back, it's just quick and natural. Real smooth also. And my saw is just sitting on a piece of 3/4" ply that is sitting on the metal bolt together stand. It will probably be even better when I bolt the top to the stand...and bolt the saw to the top. And besides...They're RED !

I just had a Generac 22kw system put in. I have used it twice now...One for 9 hours and another 12 hours. It runs on natural gas and kicks in automatically. It also runs each week for about 10 minutes.

JT is right! It should not matter unless you used plywood with only one Side good.

I'm beginning to understand how the tpi and the blade thickness are just about as important as the blade size. I guess it all has to work together. So far, all I've been interested in is what cuts the best. I do understand the ability of the kerf to dispel the sawdust and that becomes important when doing the compound cutting that I have been doing. So far, my major work has been in 3/4" x 1 1/2" mahogany. I find that I can get two of the pieces that I am doing out of one blade. It becomes pretty obvious when it's time to change blades. Just for the heck of it today, I tried a FD-UR #7 to see how it worked but I didn't get even one of the long wide cuts done and had to change back to my preferred Pegas #5 MGT. There just doesn't seem to be anything that works better for me. Here's a pic of what I'm cutting. I need 20 of these to make the table centerpiece that I'm working on.

Just initial the back or place an X on each piece or even use an adhesive star or dot on the back of the pieces.

My take: Top arms on Hegner and Hawk are both driven on the downstroke by the blade itself, so using very fine Jeweler blades is a huge problem. You can crank down the speed to minimize the "jerk" on the blades, and one cutter I know of cuts with the Hawk and does this very thing, but in my opinion, those slow speeds are incredibly frustrating. Depending on what you are cutting, you can most likely get by with the larger non-Jeweler blades, which would be a lot more Hawk/Hegner friendly. A note about Jeweler blades on the Hegner, if you go this direction, this requires special small Hegner clamps for the bottom, available from Advanced. I've done most of my cutting on the old Green Ex-21, and Added the King 16" as my travel saw. I've also owned the Dewalt and it is very well suited for Jeweler blades also. I have many many hours on Ex-21, and have zero failures other than the clamp stripping from over tightening. I've now upgraded to Pegas. If it were me personally, for this specific type of work, I would stick to the DeWalt/Pegas/King/Seyco/etc type saws. --------Randy

Get a treandle scroll saw and hook a bicycle to it. Then advertise free bike rides to the neighborhood kids. RJF

Before I make any comments, I want to mention that I cut mainly thicker woods 3/4" to 1-1/2" . So my observations apply to that on my Hegner Saw. What you cut and the saw you cut with are all part of the equation for how different blades cut. I find that the MGT blades are aggressive for me. They seem to want to cut on their own. They are great for cutting thicker material as are the PS Woods Super Sharps. I know that many people use the FD ultra reverse blades but they do not work for me in the thicker woods. The teeth are not big enough to clear the saw dust efficiently. I use mainly FD Polar blades and do not notice the drift that some describe. I do not even think about drift but just concentrate on following the line. I also will slow my saw down at times when I am cutting detail in thicker woods. I recently cut some of the compound reindeer that were just over 1/2" tall and ran my saw very slowly to get the cuts done properly. I just do not have the control on such small things with high saw speed. I pay attention to the blade number especially when cutting puzzles. If I am cutting a Judy Peterson puzzle from 3/4" wood, I will use a FD Polar #5. This gives me a clean cut with the right amount of kerf so the pieces fit together nicely. A #3 blade results in tight puzzle pieces and a #7 loose pieces. I also find the higher the blade number the more difficult to cut tight turns well. The other thing is that the type of wood also makes a difference in how the pieces fit. Maple gives very clean cuts and the pieces slide easily. A puzzle cut with the same blade from poplar or a softer wood may be tighter. But, everyone has their own style, type of work and type of wood and one needs to experiment to find what works best for them.

Just a point, Hergner (Advanced Machinery) also sell a cooler tank and setup for the Hegner (Around $130, which seens pretty expensive to me for a plastic tank and some tubing, but it does say Hegner on the side of the tank I think. That has to up the price somewhat). As for the Jewelry blades or tiny medal blades, I do not know. I have not add a problem with the small blades I use, but when you get down to the tiny ones,, I can't say.

I can not answer any of the Canada questions but I can say Any saw and I mean any saw can cut metals. Weather bearings is a problem that one I do not believe is true because the saw would also be suspect to saw dust. My opinion. . Set a vac up to collect fine shavings then. With metal you do not get the fine air born dust as you do with woods. The use of jewelers blades and speed is what controls. You will also find that a saw that does not have an inherent aggressive cutting mechanism works well too. I would think any of the Dewalt style saws would be great for that because they have a more perpendicular blade movement. I cut brass and other metals all the time. Now I have and cut them always on an RBI saw. The company that took over selling RBI saws has taken it to the dumps in my opinion and getting parts and saws take forever. But with that said I have a ton of hours on mine and have 2 of them 220vs and 226vs. I have recently bought some of Mike's Flying Dutchman metal blades and so called jewelers blades but have not tested them yet. I have been buying mine here and like the Antelope blades. https://www.ishor.com/jeweler-bench-tools/jeweler-39-s-saws-and-blades By the way your work looks great. need to show us more. here is a project I have done a few times and the brass overlays were all cut using the the blades mentioned and on the RBI.

I'm still working on several gifts of Christmas stuff. Seems like I have too much started and not enough getting done... I did finish this one which is a gift.

I’m making gifts for my family. The hard part is finding the time.

Maybe the last thing done in the Canadian shop this year, getting ready to go to Panama City Beach for 3 months.

hi and thanks for lettin me in! my name is dave, i live in kansas (yes toto!), retired. had a woodworking shop years ago, specialising in custom orders. my scrollsaw is a delta 40-601 that has sat idle for over 20 years. it has a few issues, but, theyre being sorted out. i am now just doing my woodworking for my enjoyment.

Really cool! Pizza table...makes me hungry thinking about it...lol.

terrific job

beautiful work

very nice

They look like a nice bunch of good dogs!

Now that is a Beautiful box.Awesome job.

Very well done!

I think you did but it's nice seeing them again. Marg

Ray, that is some fine cutting, looking forward to see the finished project, RJ

Beautiful work Jay.

Thanks John! It didn't sink in when you answered Les... When you told me the same thing I dug up a mm to inch calculator...Oh yea...it is over all size. Oops...sorry for asking the same thing.

Kinda cool huh?

Years ago at a woodworking show long before I knew what a scroll saw was I watched a Hegner rep cross out a dime leaving the outside ring and maintaining the inside figure. I just happened to see this orange machine and wondered what it was. The rep asked if I would like to see a demo and I said yes. Most amazing thing and he never even nipped his fingers. He said the saw was the best in the world because it was the only saw in which the blade went perfectly straight up and down. He was a great salesman and I was a terrific pauper. The word Hegner stuck in my mind. It was many years later that I began thinking scroll saw. I realize now there are other very good scroll saws but that demo never left my mind. I have no idea what this information is good for!

Impressive patterns. Thanks for the info.

I have used Corian as an inlay, but next to wood it appeared very flat because of no grain. I eventually sold it, but it took over six months of trying to accomplish.

I have promised not to get "political" here so I will refrain from adding my $.02.

Gotta put my 2 cents in here. No long story. Have Experimented with All blades mentioned above plus others. Using BB wood 1/4 or stacking up to 1/2" I Always rely on FDUR#1.... Cuts Faster and Cleaner than say #3-or #5. Anyway I am a Flying Dutchman type of person. Danny :+}

Welcome to the forum from TN. Your art is beautiful. Looks like you got some really good advise. I have the DeWalt 788, Excalibur EX21, and now the new Pegas. I still use all three. As stated all saws will cut metal. I sell the Pegas but not to Canada. Whatever saw you get, a some point in time you may consider the Pegas Blade Clamp Holders. They really improved my EX21.

Almost any scroll saw will cut metal with the right blades.

Details

A plaque and Christmas tree ornaments for whole staff.