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These are fun to make. Challenging part is the fitting to the rockers and the draw up of the animals. Now includes, alpaca, bison, elephant, pig, wolf, rhino, and hippo too. A few of them also have a secret! SHHH----(they can open a bottle!) Design by T & E designs. Most are about 4" lkong,3-1/2 tall and 3-1/4 wide. Made from an assortment of wood just lying around the shop. All are at least slightly different from each other - even the same species. Due to "pilot error" and sometimes the saw does what it wants too. I am making templates as I cut the first of a different animal and am actually drawing the animals too.

I needed a quick gift as I'm on the one they they ordered. This is better than what they ordered but quicker to make 1/4" ply rattle can paint fdsr #3 blade

I just finished this Mike Williams design, with a few liberties taken. This is my second cutting on my new Pegas saw and the entire project was done with #1 and 2/0 Pegas Spiral blades. I am new to using spirals, but I am now officially sold on them. Folks often ask me “How long did that take you?” and I honestly had never kept track, but I did with this one. From taping and gluing the pattern, to drilling and cutting a ton of holes, to sanding and oiling the cartoon and staining the backboard, cutting a keyhole slot and imbedding a signature coin, and doing the glue up, I had just over 21 hours of actual work time. It is approximately 8” x 11,” a bit smaller than Mike’s suggested 11” x 14.” I have found that making many of the patterns a bit smaller has an allure to many people. Hope you all enjoy!

I've made a few different gifts items, but this one is the cool one. A little backstory, maybe a year ago Iggy sent me a pic that he did of one these, and I said to myself " No way in hell am I EVER doing one of those". Fast forward to a month or so ago at a craft fair where I had some of Harvey's puzzles a very polite and respectful young girl asked if I had a Havanese. I told her no and I could tell she was just a little disappointed. A week or so later I received an email from her parents saying that on her list to Santa was "A Havanese puzzle like that man makes." I thought of sending them Iggy's way, but knowing what a Grinch he is, I chose to officially become one of Santa's elves. Scott, aka Iggy actually seems to be one of the good guys, but nobody tell him I said so. @Iguanadon

hello~~ next year is mouse year 2020 we will make mouse props and greeting I haven't made any patterns for 2 weeks I feel like I have to draw somthing I am sorry there is some Korean letters it is just good meaning for mouse year if you like this pattern this is free for personal use I think make 1~2mm hole and cut out the mouses and put on the number 2020 have a good time at the end of year

This is the final pattern for my Micah 6:8 plaque. I poster several earlier versions some time ago. After I finished the scrolling I debated endlessly (procrastinated) about the finish. With so much time invested I really wished I had a tried and true finish method. I finally decided to use Danish Oil and Lacquer. I read that this works well provided you allow the Danish Oil to dry for at least 4 days. I waited a week and applied 8 coats of spray lacquer. The Lacquer was wet sanded with 320 grade wet-or-dry to knock down any high spots and eliminate dust nibs. I followed this with 600 grade wet or dry. I finished with an extremely light wet sand with 2000 grade wet or dry and a light buff with grocery bag paper. I chose not to glue the plaque on the backer board until it was complete. This allowed me to rinse the sanding slurry out of the lettering. The areas on the back of the Cherry that were to be glued to the backer board were masked off before I applied Danish oil. These areas were matched with the same masking pattern on the backer board before spaying the letter portions of the backer board with flat black lacquer I wiped the plaque dry and blew any remaining water from the letters with compressed air and let it dry overnight before gluing it to the backer board. I also put 2 "insurance" screws through the backer board and into the Cherry (just in case). I did not need to use any wax on the face of the plaque. I think I have found my tried and true finish! It is now ready to be wrapped and gifted to a dear friend.

it is second mouse 2020 year patterns I draw number 20 and 3 changes I hope you enjoy

Ray, you are right in wanting to know these things. There have been times where I looked at a questioners profile to see what part of the world they lived in. If I couldn’t get it in their profile, I would ask on the forum. If I didn’t get an answer, I ignored the post. It’s as simple as that!

I never have understood why some scrollers use the very small blades on projects that can be easily accomplished with a larger blade. Is it for bragging rights or what? I can't remember the last time I used a 2/0 or smaller blade. For one thing it's just common sense less metal means less material to dissipate heat which is one big enemy of scroll saw blades. Less metal also means smaller blades are less forgiving for flexing, bending, and tension. Now granted small blades do have their uses but I think they should only be used when the project requires them. JMHO

The motor tends to get real hot during extended use. I think it is a waste of money. I just a variable speed bench grinder that I converted to a flexible drum sander by using the conversion kits from Judy Gale Robert's website. I use a Fordum power carver as well.

That is not what the issue is with the DeWALT switch. The issue is the switch is not sealed. Saw dust gets into it and fouls up the contacts. I know this because I have taken apart many a DeWALT switch. Once you remove the gunk from the contacts inside the switch, it’s good to go again. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have done this dozens of times.

Holiday Market 1 - Very Good Holiday Market 2 - Even better Holiday Market 3 - Yesterday and was mediocre... A decent start, but final 2 hours totally dead. Holiday Market 4 - Looks like it'll be a rain-out if the weather forecast holds true The good news about market #3 was that a local oceanfront motel owner who I know stopped by my booth and she hadn't seen my new specialized Carolina Beach hooks yet and she loved them and asked me to make 22 of them for the rooms. Now I have a project for January. LOL I'll do 6 of each all as wall mounted hooks, giving her 2 extras for the entrance/office/check-in area. I have to convert the dolphin and pelican since I hadn't done any of them yet.

Probably this is my last Christmas project this year - Christmas candle And my collection of Christmas projects Video of making Christmas candle All patterns

The new Hegner was delivered yesterday. It was easy to set up and get going. My first impressions are that it's table is a little smaller than I would like but I can get use to it. The foot pedal is tiny. I'm getting better at the quick release clamp and getting the blade in to it's holders. The release knob is tearing my hand up as the surface is very rough but nothing a glove didn't fix. I tried it out on one of my largest projects and it handled it with ease. Just took longer than usual but that will be fixed when the muscle memory kicks in. The only problem is that the center insert does not line up with the blade and the blade is rubbing/cutting into the right side of it. I cannot for the life of me figure out anyway to adjust the blade back more towards the center. Am I missing something? Otherwise I am very impressed and look forward to cutting more projects out with it.

Ray the bearing is the same.. but the I.D. of the sleeve is different size. I don't remember now.. if it was larger or smaller, LOL but the inside diameter was different.. also think the sleeve was also either longer or shorter.. I just know they wasn't the same.. as i have a complete set of bearings and sleeves that I intended to use on my old DW before I sold it.. As for taking the assembly out of the saw.. it's quite simple.. you need to remove the back cover that bends around the curvature of the back of the saw.. remove the metal plate on the side of the saw to access the motor area.. and remove the three screws holding the wires right below the motor shaft ( can be seen in the posted pics above..) I removed the cap screw on the arm end of the motor connecting rod and then unbolted the motor to remove it for better access.. Then at the front of the saw you need to remove all the linkages from the upper and lower arms.. then you should be able to pull the whole assembly right out the back of the saw... I believe there was two bolts back by that back side plate toward the front of the saw that has to come out too.. I say it's fresh in my head but now I don't know, LOL Once you look at it and start digging in it's straight forward.. Oh.. you have to remove the knob of the back adjustment rod too so you can get that back cover off.. I also think I unplugged some wires inside the case somewhere on the motor side.. I don't remember why I had to unplug them now but remember doing it.. Take a photo so you know what wire goes where is helpful.. Putting it back together was quite simple to do too... just pay attention to what arm is the top and bottom.. as they only go in one way.. well actually they will go in either way but when you go to put the motor back on.. it wont line up unless you have that assembly in right side up... don't ask how I know

Yeah, you're right about that Dan. Sorry. But, what I have been trying to get at is this......a new person by the name of "Frosty the Snowman" logs on and asks where is the best place to buy one thing or another. They offer absolutely no information as to who they are, where they are, what type of projects they are interested in, what type/brand saw they have and the list goes on. It's very tough to help someone who offers nothing to work with. A long time ago, I suggested that we all "sign" our posts with our first names. That was pretty well received and most of us who are regulars did it. What is so different about adding a simple thing like the city, state, COUNTRY where you are located? It just makes sense to me. Am I being overly inquisitive? As for dogs, we don't have one. But if anybody is interested, we have two cats. I can post pics too.

My new saw is scheduled to be here tomorrow...can hardly wait.

I have the Seyco and have had it for maybe 8 years with no problems. I like that is on a stand.

I agree with Dave Monk, do not hesitate to call and ask questions. I must have called them 5 times when I first got my Hegner. I kept breaking blades and was getting frustrated with the saw. They said they were going to work with me until I it was my favorite saw I had ever owned,,, and they did. In my case it was all about learning the tension. Not the saw's fault. About the "Quik clamp". I bought a second one a while back and the surface on it is much rougher than the original one. Not sure why they did that. I was thinking of mounting it in a drill and running it on some sand paper to smooth it down a little, but I have gotten use to it. The little foot switch, I was leery of it at first, but now it is my favorite and if I ever have to buy another for my other scroll saw (it is a bigger pedal) I will get one like the one that came with my Hegner. The blade rubbing is not right and needs to be resolved. I agree, check the the blade and table are 90°. If not get on the phone with Advance Machinery. Contrats on the new saw... You will be happy, just takes a little getting use to.

The Guinevere motor is nice but the other options such as a flex shaft are not cheap. I think it would work fine for you. Foredom also makes a variable speed unit that is only 1/6 hp. I use my variable speed drill press for somethings and do not worry about the bearings on it. If I have a lot to do, I use my Shopsmith and can use both ends of the motor. It is also variable speed. The Guinevere is 3600 rpm and I do not run my sanding mops that fast. Typically, I run them about 1000 rpm which gives me better control. The variable speed is a great feature. There are variable speed bench grinders but seem to only go down to 2000 rpm but are

I am not very interested in people's age or location. But, I really like people to put more information about their saw, blade, wood variety and thickness. It is tough when people discuss a problem about cutting but fail to provide enough details to have others really understand.

We must have the same friends!

it is the constant making and breaking of a live circuit that wears the contacts on a switch. Any switch will fail over time and add elements to that switch location and it is a failure that will repeat. Protect the environment of the switch and use a heavier rated motor rated contact switch and will last longer. Those saw switches are low rated and being most people switch to foot controlled switching many people never have to replace them. You have this on lathes alot too because the constant on/off all the time. I just replaced a switch on my tablesaw and it was a 20 amp rated motor switch. Just normal wear and tear.

Why do you feel you need to use such thin blades?? I hardly ever use that small of a blade unless I have fine veining to do or doing puzzles. My go to blade is a #5 silver reverse FD blade and I cut 1/8" to 3/4" oak with it. The heavier blades will track better. You do not say what saw you are using? Using thin blades like that you need to lower the speed and tension and can not push as hard. When switching blade brands it always takes some getting use to. There is a learning curve. Here is an example of what a #5 blade can cut. 1/4" red oak on the lettering.

I am not saying it is not a wear point but there is virtually no wear on the top arm wedge or fingers. I cleaned the parts and carefully examined the area looking for wear.

Shoot this isn’t even going into the siding yet lol. Remember the discussion about “my saw won’t run”? Ended up hitting every topic from moon landing to price of peanuts in China This is fun. The other forum you couldn’t get a two person reply on any topic.

The wedge/aluminum arm is not a wear area. There might be minimal wear, but not much. Based upon this topic, I took my 1994 Hegner apart and there is no wear. I looked as hard as I could for a crack, but the arm has a blue coating and I did not see anything. I am not concerned. They do not instruct the user to put any oil or grease there. It probably would not hurt to do so. I wonder if there was a flaw in that casting that caused that failure. I did take my arms off to check the bearings for oil. It was well oiled, but I cleaned them up anyway and reoiled. Ready for more cutting.

A couple of the ones I have finished. The letter/napkin holder is an H. Botas pattern I simplified slightly and is made from BB. The sign is for my BIL in Texas. It is made from cedar with a pine backing. Finish on both is spray can poly.

I would fill out my profile, but when I entered the Witness Protection Program, they warned me about giving out too much personal information.

Not being the sharpest tack in the box, how does location have anything to do with this hobby (addiction)? I'd like the birthday filled out in a profile too, not so much cause that day of the year matters to me, but if I know I am talking to someone approaching my age group, then I know what kinds of analogies will be understood.

If I had a warrant for my arrest I wouldn't fill it out either!

Looks great! Congratulations on conquering the spiral blades. I have made a couple attempts and quickly gave up. (Like you really wanted to know that, right?) God Bless! Spirithorse

Great looking piece. Glad to hear your are mastering a spiral blade, something that I"ve yet to do.

Love the pattern. Did this one not too long ago. You did a very beautiful job cutting this one Joe.

Make sure the table is 90 degrees to a new unused blade. Do not go by degree markings or any detent stops. You can always make an auxillary table top to make the work surface larger. I did this with some 1/8" BB plywood. Seal the wood and a coat of poly on top and slick enough to control your projects. The metal tabs that hold the blade holders, make sure they are straight or else the holders will be tilted and thus throw alignment of blade off. Make sure blade travels up and down in a straight plane.

Nice finish!

My goto blade is the pegas MG #3, Depending on the need I also use the MG #5 and the MG #1. I started with Olsen, went to FDUR, and am happy with the MG blade and my ability to control them. I have an excaliber and have no problem with breaking or getting hockey sticks.

That cap screw that is shown in the last picture has a needle bearing in there with a sleeve.. This is a big wear point on these saws.. Personally if you take that screw out. it's not much more work to just pull out the whole assembly upper and lower arm assembly out and clean up all the old grease re-grease everything and put it back together.. It's not extremely hard but does take a couple hours.. Being a older green saw.. I'm not sure how much use it's had. but I'd consider doing that.. knocking noise you may find a worn sleeve / bearing.. The bearings are pretty much the same ones the DW788 use but the sleeves are different... and I do not know a source for the sleeves.. Mine was beat up a bit and still has a slight knock to it because of this.. I'm just not sure where to look for the sleeve.. my local bearing supply can get the bearing in for me.. Ray sells the hole assembly but I really didn't want to spend $100+ when a 10-15 bearing and sleeve is all that was needed..LOL Best of luck with it and let us all know what you find out.

Thanks Marg, I lose weight and my friends lose weight but I always find it again.

I had a power problem with my Delta (similar to Dewalt). I did not consider "ANYTHING" except genuine parts from EREPLACEMENT. I ordered a switch and a breaker. I think the switch was about $8.00 Anyway, it was cheap enough and genuine part PS: I scotch tape Saran Wrap around my switch.

I use the Pegas Modified Geometry the most and usually a number 3 or 5 works well.. I also sometimes use FD ultra Reverse.. I've found that the Pegas blades tend to run on the smaller side of both FD and Olsen blades.. A number 5 Pegas is like a in between size 3 and 5 of the other brands.. They also run thinner kerf.. With that said.. I think you're nornal blade is a 2/0 you may want to go to a #1 with a Pegas MG blade.. that would be closer comparison to the Olsen 2/0..

I can't see how it would be a wear point. There would be very very little motion of the tension rod blocks in their spots. There is a bit of play in the holes the tension rod runs through the blocks in; thats where I would guess the wear to be. That tension rod almost looks like it was eaten away by an acid or something

As I said earlier, I carefully examined the fracture surface and the area around it and did not see any defects. I really do not think it was caused by a defect but rather getting hit at some point. As Matt B mentioned, the upper arm finger area showed no wear at all.

Great job Ralph! I’ve got one request to cut when we get to the border and unpack my saw.

Patrice, your work is beautiful art. Thank you for sharing .

Be kinda nice if someone dropped in on me. I'd love to talk shop with. All my friends sit around discussing motorcycle engine displacements and how many wives they've had.

Kevin, I admire your industriousness and diligence against all odds.

Quality lettering skills used here!!!

Now that is some Fancy cutting!! Awesome job!!

She is a true artist. I love her work. Marg