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This is going to my Father-In-Law who is 89. This pattern pushed my skill limit. I do plan to do another for my neighbor. I tried using a #1 Pegas MGT blade, but could not control it well. I ended up doing most of it using a #3 MGT which seems to be my go to blade. Matt

Just finished this box for my daughter. I think it will be a good Christmas present. What do you think? you can find the pattern here: http://www.stevedgood.com/hummerbox.pdf

I did this one from a piece of cherry my brother gave me. I'm gonna give it to him for Christmas. I showed him a little at Thanksgiving on my scroll saw, he's bought a used saw and gonna give it a try. If I counted right there is 120 cuts on the outside and 54 on the inside. Total time was probably 4 hours. I finished it with 321. It's about 3/8" thick and I cut it with a # 1 FD. Thanks for looking.

Stack cut 2 Baltic birch 1/4" pegas #2 skip

Definitely not for the bragging section, but I needed a quick project for a great grandson almost five. The pattern is by Sarah Lyn Chamberlain and found in SWC Fall 2019. I used 3/4" Pine and cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw with MGT #5 blades. The finish is dipped in Shellac diluted 50% with alcohol. Comments welcome.

Loves all my work and pays accordingly.everyday more work comes in from her ,she,s a singer.

I made second santa's boot when I draw boot I wanted to make it pair and second one was batter when I thought~~ https://youtu.be/FgqocPK_CoM https://www.etsy.com/shop/Namunolie second boot (left) first boot (right)

Just finished my final Christmas gift for this year. My nephew and his wife are visiting the weekend after Christmas and decided to do a portrait of them. as usual the design took longer than the actual cutting. 3 days to clean up the photo and one day to cut. 1/8 BBPW on 1/4" backer. Picture frame material from Lowes. Hope they like it.

Received my on and off switch from replacement parts ,com part #5140092-86 if anyone needs one, it is very easy to install , and now back in business

You guys are the very best. After inspecting the brushes that I had replaced 1 year ago, I switched them around and that did the trick! THANK YOU! Thank You! Thank You! I'm still going to consider upgrading to a Seyco in 2020

I own a three year old Hegner and a two year old Pegas. I like both saws. On large projects I like to be able to top feed with the Pegas. If I am cutting thick wood I like the Pegas. If I am doing fine intricate work I like my Hegner. My Hegner will defiantly outlast my Pegas. I would not give up either saw. If I could only keep one saw it would be the Pegas.

The reason I would stick with Hegner is its simplicity and ease of maintenance . I'm too old to be trouble shooting.

I just had the same issue. My 1988 Hegner broke and I decided the repairs were too much for a 31 year old saw. I bought a new Hegner. I decided based on that I was comfortable with it and did not want to learn a new saw. I am too old for that. I cut a lot of Intarsia and thicker wood. I also have extra blade clamps, the Hegner table and a dust system for it. I hear good things about the Pegas saw but it has been out less than a year and time will tell about durability. I know my Hegner will outlast me. If you have been happy with your Hegner, why change? If you want the latest scroll saw and something different then the Pegas is for you. Both saws will do a fine job.

My wife fell in love with pelicans during our visit to Florida, so I surprised her with this pelican themed tissue box.

I just put kid's paint to swordfish I made it 2 month ago by plywood i like nature wood batter than painted but some of my friends asked me to put some color on it I wondered how does it look https://youtu.be/eRBp-BYJI2Y https://www.etsy.com/shop/Namunolie testing fisrt painting and sanding for matt color and vintage look testing : second painting with small art brush it is my first time to use this paint was too thick I add 10% water

All the kids are agog about the Ice Princess in "Frozen" so I though a nice little plaque for a child's room would be right in order. I used 1/4" birch ply to cut out the sign and then sprayed it with white paint and covered it with shiny dust to make it look like a cold snowy object. I then painted a backboard arch which I improvised. The sign part was glued to the board using a couple of 1/4" pieces of ply to give it a 3D effect. You could put one of those sawtooth picture hooks on the back to make this a wall plaque, but I chose to put it on a plate stand. I got the plate stand from Steve Good's site, if you are interested in this method. Might make a nice gift for a little one in your life . Pattern available free on my Free Pattern Page

Pattern drawn by a friend.

If I were in the market for a new saw I would buy the Pegas. Yes you are comfortable with the Hegner, which of course is an excellent saw, as is my Hawk which I will have till I can't scroll anymore. I have never liked the Hegner clamps. And on my Hawk I installed after market Delta cam action clamps Super easy and fast. But the Pegas has simpler clamps than even my Hawk, it can top and bottom feed and the big advantage that it has is that the table stays flat and the blade tilts. The Pegas kept the rack and pinion plus 90 deg pin for resetting to 90 deg. It also tilts a full 45 deg both directions if you remove the dust port under the table which I don't like on any of this style of saw. I have my own dust collection setup that I prefer.

ive heard some horror stories on these saws since they moved the manufacturing to china. my next saw will be the seyco

In addition to the clamps, my concern is where will they be in the long term. It looks like they had the brand for 5 years and still no Excalibur in the US.

That is how I feel about the Hawk vrs the Ex or DeWalt.. The Hawk seems to be easier to do fine detailed stuff.. but is much slower going that the Ex type saws.. even though I have the blade adjustment to be as close to straight up down as I can get with the Ex.. it's still not as easy to do those detailed projects.. Will always keep both style of saws around...

Now we will have to tell you advice does not come cheap around here. WE do not nilly willy through it around here. The bill is you have to show us some of your work Glad it worked out.

Dan has really good advise, and it is what I tell my students. I also tell my students "slower is not easier", some of my kids think that going slower will make it easier and it takes a bit to convince them to speed up. I personally set my saw to just a bit faster than half way and rarely change it.

One question to you. Have you ever been cutting and wished you could turn the speed down because you couldn’t stay on the line? That’s when you would turn the speed down, to have better control of the cut. As a scroll saw instructor, I teach beginners to start at 50%. If you feel you are cutting to slow, turn it up a little till it’s comfortable. If you are cutting and you feel you can’t control the cut, slow it down till it’s comfortable. Seeing as you are used cutting at full speed, you may never need to slow it down. My feeling is you will use the speed control more than you think!

If yours is like my Hegner, it will have "sweet spots" where it runs the smoothest. I have three or four " of them at different speeds. You will learn yours as you get use to the saw. I never run my saws at full speed for long. I don't drive my car at full speed all the time either. I run mine around mid speed most the time. You will get the feel for what is best for you. I also slow down on thin wood. Faster on thicker pieces.

I have a EX21 but I would think be the same with your saw. When I cut 1/4” wood I will turn the speed down to about half way. Lets me control the cut better. Everything else I run wide open.

oke, i think a stick to Hegner, thanks alot for the feedback and advice

Genuine Mahogany is fairly soft as is African Mahogany. 1 1/2” Mahogany will be tough cutting though. Suggesting a blade is tough as everyone has their favorite blade. I use Olson and Flying Dutchman blades. Of the blades I have and use, I would use either an Olson skip tooth #7 or #9 or I would use a FD Ultra Reverse #5 or #7 or FD Polar #7 or # 9. The Polar blades are a skip tooth blade which work well in thick wood as it doesn’t have reverse teeth that will clog up the kerf with saw dust.

Thank you for the kind wishes! Surgery went well yesterday and I'm home today. Can't drive or go into the shop for two weeks. However I feel great and this too shall pass. Also I have just upgraded my profile page.

One thing I would like to mention. Folks who own Hegner and Hawks claim how convenient it is to have extra blade clamps loaded with new blades ready to install when needed. With the EX type saws, including Pegas, DeWALT and newer Delta saws, don’t have removable clamps. So you don’t need to pre-load clamps. And nothing to drop on the floor and lose.

I use an EX-21 so I'm probably biased towards the Pegas. I have used a Hegner a couple of times and it is really different from the EX-21 and the Pegas. Based on that I would say stay with Hegner. Having said that --- Woodcraft is selling the Pegas 21" saw for $750. The Hegner Mutimax V-22 goes for $1645 from Advanced Machinery - twice as much as the Pegas. Both are excellent machines for the price. But for you the Pegas would have a learning curve to it.

nice work kevin you put lot of gold on it:)

I too am giving srollsawn gifts for Christmas, here are some of them.

Wow, Jim that is a great list.

Maybe they took those 5 years to make some improvements - one can hope pegas clamps, a decent hook up for both upper and lower vacuum, built in magnifier light or at least the post/tube that they stick in, failing a better vacuum hook up, at least one that does not get fretwork stuck in it, and stronger blower

Thanks again, yes iam used to high speed and whas pretty comfortable with it, rarely was i struggling with cutting small delicate pieces, i can only get beter if i can control the speed.

The height of the G4 took me some time to get used to. My wife bought me a stool years ago that is the perfect height for it. Of course I could have modified the legs. But now that I have an EX 16 with the Pegas clamps, I feel I have the perfect combination of saws in my shop. The EX for all the bevel cuts and the Hawk my "production" saw and large projects. The EX @ 54 lbs vs 110 for the Hawk makes it my traveling saw.

Like Trackman I turn the speed down to about half way with 1/4 or 1/8th thick wood, everything else I run about 7/8ths full speed. My theory, and it seems to work for me on my excaliber, is the faster the blade travels up and down the more strokes clear out the wood especially the fuzzies on the back. Keep in mind, the speed of blade has nothing to do with how fast you feed the wood into it, fast blade, slow feed rate, it clears out the fuzzies pretty well, and I hate sanding EDIT - I do use the pegas MG blades, #3 is my goto blade, and they have the reverse teeth at the bottom to clear fuzzies

Alot depends on the difficulty of the pattern. But I too would use a #7 ( I like double tooth skip ultra reverse FD )on the 1-1/2" Mahagony is real easy to cut. Need to let your saw do the work. Push too hard and the blade will bend on you and the cut will be slanted.

Hi John. Yes, I buy the Shellac premixed.

Nice job.

Good reasons she loves your work Kevin, it’s always top notch. Glad she is a good repeat customer who pays you. Hope you are feeling better.

Those are both really neat gifts and especially the tool box. I bet that will go through a few families just like my rocking horse has that my day made me over 70 years ago (I think I was only 14 then). It is still going strong, has been ridden through many families of my children, grand children, cousins, nieces, nephews, etc. When the kids outgrow the little steed he comes home and waits for the next cowboy or cowgirl that needs a horse. I couldn't find a use for the neat napkin rings,, in my family a person wants napkins, we pass the roll of paper towel over!!

Those are some fine work !......The grandson will be very excited !

Ha! I joke with another vendor friend of mine "I earned 22 'Your stuff is amazing!' dollars today!" If only we got paid based on compliments.

We all know that with french toast you want good sausage. And lots of syrup on the whole thing.

I think it is an interesting topic. I absolutely do not post my real birthday on any forum as it is a key piece of identity information. I am in the 60-80 age range.

If you cut your plywood to whatever wide you want them I typically cut them into about 8x8 inch blanks for ornaments.. Usually get 5 ornaments per blank.. so i rip several 8" strips on the table saw then you can run those strips though your drum sander.. makes the initial sanding quick and easy.. then finish cutting the 8" strips into squares.. and finish sanding with my RO sander to the 320 grit.. drill the pilot holes and hit that back side with the 320 for any puncture holes that may have pushed through.. when done cutting.. I usually don't really have to sand them again but the few that do need a sanding is usually the top of the stack and the bottom one.. Typically stack cut everything 4-6 to a stack..

Not a dumb question at all... as that would make a world of difference in the quality.. I think many of us " Assume" it was the good 5 ply.. and never thought about it being the cheaper stuff.. Since I've never used the 3 ply I forget it even exist, LOL So.. that is a great question.. I'll be curious to see what that answer is.. Thanks for asking that question..

Well, I didn't sand and I used blue tape. Will try both suggestions. dgman: how are you sticking your paper pattern to the wood?