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Canary got out of his cage. Can't find him anywhere..cat just sits here with a smug look on his face...don't know if this is a Steve Good pattern or not..had it awhile,decided to cut it...kind a cute.

I finally got my new scroll saw (Pegas SCP16CE) - I cant even imagine better scroll saw. And here is my first project by this scrollsaw - multi-layered violin. Video of making project Violin pattern

My first inlay (Horse)and my one of my latest:

John, not speaking for the OP but I use the mop sander to soften the edges of stand up puzzles. It’s easier than hand sanding or using a round over bit in a router.

First of all, slow down the drill press. Second, clamp a “backstop” to the drill press table.

I am very excited. My daughter got me a new chair for Christmas.. Now I can scroll in comfort.

This is how I make my boxes after doing the inlay in the 3/8" top: I use 3/8" thick wood throughout. I re-saw the wood (I use eastern red cedar) to 3/8" and make the bottoms to size. My boxes are 6"x8" mostly. To make the sides, I rip the 3/8" cedar to 1 3/4" strips and then cut to length at a 45 degree bevel, on each end, to form the four sides. Then I glue these four pieces together at the corners as they stand on edge on my bench. I then put two rubber bands around this assembly to hold it in place until the glue sets. ( I also use a small frame to hold the sides in place as I install the rubber bands. All you need is a board with two short strips attached at ninety degrees). I use Elmer's white glue. It dries quickly, dries clear, and is cheap. $14 a gallon. (I go through two gallons a year) If the frame that is thus made is not perfectly square, not to worry. It does not matter because the top and bottoms are a little larger than this side assembly. After the glue sets I sand the top and bottom edges, of this assembly, flat in my stationary belt sander. I then put very little glue on the bottom edge and place it on the bottom and repeat this for the top. I apply eight 3" spring clamps until the glue dries. (glue dries well enough to handle in an hour) The top and bottom are a bit larger than the side assembly is, so I cut off the excess in my band saw and then sand flat in the stationary belt sander. This is where you may see some minor gaps in the joints so, I fill those in with a mixture of white glue and dust from my orbital sander to use as filler. Sand flat and sand the whole box with 100 grit sandpaper using a random orbital sander including rounding off the edges a little. I then sand to 180 grit and apply clear lacquer from a rattle can. After the finish is dry I take the box back to the band saw and cut off the lid using a tall re-saw fence,. I make the lid 3/4" deep. (This 3/4"includes the 3/8" thick top.) I then sand the sawmarks out of the cut edge and install the hinges. I use a spacer on the hinges side of this box to keep the hinge side from pinching before the front side touches when closed. I use the thickness of two business cards for this. I do not finish the inside of the cedar box but I often apply one more coat of spray lacquer on this box after the hinges are installed. Hope this helps. If you have any questions you are welcome to email me . I will be glad to help. Jim

Like Dan, I also use a Mac Mop purchased from Klingspor. I use 220 grit and they last a long time.

Been there done it with small pieces with Intarsia. My dust collector behind my flex sander had bars across but that was not enough as it sucked in a little piece I dropped and the blades made mince meat out it. I then but in bird screening at the back. With my mop sander I added a piece of carpet underlay to the left to catch the dropped pieces.

tape residue is better removed, at least in my opinion, with mineral spirits, just wipe it down. I use a corded drill, mounted on a board for the sanding mop, the mop hangs over the work bench. I did this mostly cause I do not believe the bearings in a drill press are suited to lateral pressure, and it allows me to leave the mop mounted. Of course the corded drill bearings most likely have the same issue, but with corded drills less than $20 its a cheap replacement not to mention easier. In my set up, I found that if I throw a sheet down under the mop, I no longer lose a piece since that makes it easier to find, corollary to Murphy's law. I actually discovered that trick working on harleys, there are some tiny parts is some areas, invariably I would drop one into never never land, started putting down a sheet, and no problems since.

These are the ornaments that I made to go OS. Two of the Gingerbread people went to Cornwall in the UK, the other two went to Scotland. The other ornaments went to Dan, @dgman in the US. I cut them so long ago I can't remember what the woods are. Some of the patterns I got form the Ornaments For Charity book. Marg

I have found that the wheel going into the edges is the main way that it gets ripped out of my hands and thrown into that area of the shop that has a worm hole directly to the moon. (that's the only way I can explain how I can never find that piece). If possible, I will also sand along the edges instead of at right angles to them. Very light pressure is also a must, the wheel should just touch the piece without pressure. Let the paper movement do the work, not pressure. Tom

Card scrapers do a beautiful job. Quite, no dust, economical and safe.

Long before I had access to a scroll saw, I used a coping saw to do (almost) the same job. The first project that I remember cutting with a coping saw was a simple jigsaw puzzle puppy and I made that as a present for my brother Bruce when I was about 7. That's 70 years ago. I don't have a photo, but this sketch that I found on the internet is close to what I used: It shows that things don't really change much for me in spite of the years and all the new technologies, because the last scroll saw project that I completed is this one that I did for my sister Christine about two weeks ago:

Santa brought me a Porter Cable in 2015, the first thing I did was a sign for the wife's store, then I found an excaliber on craigs list, and been cutting ever since. From Fretwork, to puzzles, to portraits and boxes.

I started scroll sawing in 1988 sometime. Started off doing real simple fretwork ornaments that was in the scroll saw magazines. Today, I make at least 600 to 700 intarsia ornaments each Christmas. Along with lots of other stuff.

I’ve posted these before so I guess these will look familiar to some. That deer really needs some help! I think I cut it around 2011, which is when I first started scrolling. The Sue Mey nativity scene was cut just before Christmas.

Valentine's Day is a great day for giving gifts, any day is a great day for giving puzzles as gifts. So here's a simple 12 piece heart puzzle that might make a nice gift on V day or maybe just about any day. I cut mine from 1/4" birch ply and lightly painted it pink on the front. Pattern On Free Page

The most important thing in that shop is the bathroom!

that is an amazing shop, I expect it took him to his present age to get it all made, now just to use it (joking)

if i could build what i have in my mind, id have this! ive drooled over this for years https://www.woodmagazine.com/ideas/wood-shop-showcase/ultimate-wood-shop-design

I guess I am so cheap, I just use wood. from furniture, scraps, cast offs from a construction site, and occasionally I break down and buy a board

I use Poplar for most of the puzzles, but sometimes other hardwoods.

Like @dgman I use it also for rounding but in addition, I get spurs or sometimes there is tape residue I want to remove - I just thought it easier to use a mop/ball

Made a Spider-Man coaster for my daughter’s boyfriend for Christmas. Black Walnut and Mahogany. Finished with Danish oil and glossy Spar Urethane.

Understood. Thanks

That polishing motor will be worse so I suggest you stick with what you have and yes slow the speed down some. Not sure why you need to use a flap sander on puzzle pieces. If you are just taking fuzzies off why not adhere a poece of sand paper to a flat board and just rub them with your fingers. Should take all of a couple passes. maybe I am not understanding what you are doing. But flap sanders are good for intarsia pieces and if that is what you are doing then yes you have the right tool.

Yah, that's what I had before - ok thx - I'll try that again and slow down the drill as well!

350 Takes saw home. If you live in central Florida let me know. Hate to store it again and would like to see it used

I'm much the same situation. I try to keep my bench clear. I have a vice mounted on one end and a little Delta drill press on the other end. I keep all of my portable tools under the bench on two shelves. I'm trying desperately to figure out a way to keep my planer up on a stand that is mobile enough to take outdoors. It's so darn heavy that I can't lift it without hurting my back. That's why I'm really liking that flip top stand for the planer and my Ridgid sander. If I build it the way I have in my mind, I'll be able to roll it down and out of my shop fairly easily. Of course, that's in my mind. In reality it probably won't work that way. Oh well..............

Got started, technically, back in Nov 2017 (according to the photo filename). I'd helped my wife's grandfather renovate our first house back in 2007/2008, and have always loved working with my hands to create something, so when we moved back in, he told me to hang on to an old table saw and band saw ("if I need 'em, I know where to find 'em." They lived a mile away from us.). I made a Texas state flag out of a section of old fence, just adding some support to the back and painting it, and got started making smaller sized flags, then got the band saw up and running again and tried making a sign I'd seen on Pinterest, but ran into a problem with the inside loop on the "L". So I found an old Dremel 57-2 listed at a garage sale, picked it up for $25, and never looked back. The band saw hasn't been used since, and was even sold to make room for other stuff. Most recent were a couple of gifts, one for my daughter (I stack-cut the dragon scene, and have one at work as well) and one for my wife for our anniversary.

I got my 1st scrollsaw from Aldi's just over a year ago as I thought it might be interesting to try something new in my retirement. I was quite happy with it for a month or so then I discovered this forum and that was it. After seeing some of the amazing things that people cut on here, I bought a new saw and I've gone from silhouettes and simple cut outs to my beloved Gorilla. I would never have imagined in a lifetime that I could do something like this. I'm totally addicted.

Jim, thanks for the explanation, I see how you are doing it now, very clear explanation. I'll have to think this through, I do not have a band saw, and very little room to put one anywhere either. I never realized you built the whole box and then cut the top off, interesting

@octoolguy https://www.amazon.com/Mallofusa-Replacement-Climbing-Shopping-Laundry/dp/B008BXQR32

That's a great way of looking at it !!!

I prefer the term 'Council screwdriver' to hammer lol you made a cracking job of the the coaster mate

Your inlays are always so aw-some. I wish someone could show me how to first of all how to make the boxes!

Looks good Gordie!

BTW that was the first time I routed something like that. Everything I did a round over before was straight. I did nothing with burned edges. I just used a Minwax stain (Gunstock) and the burnt areas disappeared.. I'm going to re-cut with Oak and try the suggestions here. Thanks to all.

Someone mentioned inlay and I had to look twice. Very well done.

Ray, keep in mind that if you build a rolling cart, flip top or not, the larger the wheels the easier it is to roll. All too often I see projects like this that have small wheels, just the minimum weight handling, and the user wonders why it rolls with difficulty

Beautiful ornaments, Marg.

Very nice work Marg..

GREAT responses by many. One thing to add. Whenever I do a project like that one I route the edges before I scroll the text or whatever. Sure you have to be a little careful but that way if you really mess it up on the router you have not lost all your work.

I knew I needed to find a different outlet for my enjoyment in woodworking, so bought the Wen. My first was really bad. I knew nothing about how to cut. Hadn't even watched Steve Good's intro series. Pinned blade that came from with the saw. Discovered later that it was a #9. I've since upgraded to a Delta and have a bit more understanding of blades and how to cut. My latest completed project. I have a 4-5 other not puzzles in various stages of completion. I like the puzzles because I can finish in a a of hours. I suffer senior onset attention deficit disorder.

Wooden teddy bear bought Mike's business.

Looking good Marg !

Very nice Marg!!

WELL WELL---Now you are so CASH surplus that you can cut up fivers! Oh kidding aside-NICE WORK!

Best I can do is say they ate thin woods,lol. Extreme quality girl!