Leaderboard

The pattern is by Jacob Fowler. I used 1/2" Poplar and 3/4" Padauk for the base. It was cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using #3R and #5R MGT blades. The finish is spray Shellac. Comments welcome.

Got some nice weather so did a bit of scrolling.

This is the second one I have cut as the first one was sold. Pattern by the late great Dirk Boleman. 240 inside cuts using FD UR #3 and 5 blades cutting on a DeWALT saw. 5/8” Red Oak with a Mahogany Base. 16” long x 10” high.

Well, this was a first for me. Inlay. First lesson learned from this was to select thinner wood....both pieces were 1" thick (or less....grand total was about 1 3/4" thick when stacked). Thicker wood probably needed a steeper angle, I did this at 2 degrees (more or less), following a nifty video I found on Youtube (looked suspiciously like Dave...). I had to hammer the two together. Also, most of my scraps are all the same color/flavor of wood (outer ring/wolf are red oak, I splurged and bought a board), so after rigorous sanding/filing didn't loosen the fit any, I didn't bother to go to the next step and sand them flat while joined. Just stained and pounded together. This'll definitely go on my "look where I started, and how far I've come" pile. Pattern was a pic I found on Google, its a design for guitar string pegs/tightener/doohickeys. Enlarged it, threw it in Inkscape to TraceBitmap and remove the jaggy edges, added the circle, and cut. Easy enough to cut.

Practice, practice practice. Sometimes I think I am worse than when I started. Here's a clip art picture of an angelfish, I added the water in the background. I'm not sure what wood that is, it's 1/4th inch plywood of some type. I used blue stain for the water and just painted the fish with solid acrylics. What am I going to do with all this stuff I'm making? Maybe I'll take them up to the Senior Center for Bingo prizes?

Not a blade recommendation but I always put a piece of clear packing tape over the top of the pattern when cutting cherry. It greatly reduces the amount of burning. I would use #5 skip tooth in either flying dutchman or olson.

My personal blade of choice for that would be a Pegas MGT #5 or #7. The MGT is an aggressive reverse tooth blade. I am not knocking them but I am not a big fan of Olson Blades.

Just finished this Camaro done on !/2" Oak Steve Good pattern

Not been able to get to my saw for the last couple of weeks. Was on my own today so I did an easy one, just to cheer me up. No finish on it yet, I've to decide whether to have it backed black or brown.

Just finished this portrait yesterday. It was a tuff one to do. Had a lot of trouble with the lettering because of it being so small. I want to thank Paul (Grampa) for being able to do this pattern for me. I know it was a hard one to do by him and me. Well I did the best I could. Just have to give it a couple more coats of laquear.

Sasho contributed the pattern for this to our library about a year ago. To me, it's both sad and happy at the same it. I immediately cut it, but only this week got around to framing 'Life' and it now hangs over my desk. The foreground, the background, and the frame are all quarter-sawn white oak.

We use a oil filled radiator electric heater in the shop similar to this one. Works great, and cost little to operate. It is a supplemental heat source for he shop. DH also uses one in basement lawn mower room in winter to keep pipes there from freezing (happened once before he used one of these.) it is the only heat source in that area. We were familiar with as my mom used one in her garage in winter because her washer and dryer was in an Unheated garage. https://www.amazon.com/COSTWAY-Radiator-Portable-Adjustable-Thermostat/dp/B076JBWJ1M/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Comfort+Zone®+Heater+Deluxe+Oil+Filled+Radiator&qid=1582146303&sr=8-9 Besides other concerns you raised in regards to using propane, you would also need to make sure it was vented with fresh air. I would not want to take risks presented by propane when there are other safer options like this.

As a Pegas distributor, I suggest Pegas #5R MGT or possibly #7R MGT blades.

Definitely a number 5 blade, and ALWAYS use packing tape when cutting cherry, especially THICK cherry.

I use the sam blade as I always do for 99% of my projects and that is the #5 Penquin silver reverse FD blades. They are my go to blades. I will go to a #7 if the wood is oily such a rosewoods but cherry cuts smooth as silk. Just need to use sharp blades, keep project moving at a good pace and let the blade do the work. You start pushing the piece into the blade at angles not good. That is when you get burning.

I add tape to the bottom stop the burning and have been using both #3 and #5 Flying Dutchman Ultra reverse on cherry.

My Ex21 was made in Canada in 2010 and it has the tilting head. So does my Ex16 but it came from Taiwan.

Thanks Larry, I sprayed the backer with black lacquer and then glued the plywood on then sprayed the entire thing with clear.

Thanks to all. I have solved my problem using all the help and info gleaned from here. SSV is the best. To solve the problem at hand, I cut a couple of tiny pieces of walnut to fit the holes that I had to deal with and plugged the holes. The two cracks that were formed by joining the two pieces of walnut were filled, as suggested, with Titebond II and sanding dust. So far so good. I'll not know how it all works out until I dip the whole thing in Watco's oil. Keeping my fingers crossed.

I've used oak 1/4 MDF plywood a lot.

Flocking is very easy to do. The material will only stick to surfaces that are painted with the adhesive so if it gets in the fret work, no big deal. It will fall out when you shake the box or you can blow it out or use a soft brush. Just use clean paper under the project to catch all the loose fibers and pour back into the bag. One bag goes a long way. The puffer is great and no you can reuse as long as you clean it out and what I do is dump excess back in bag and then use shop vac and vac it out. Works great. The whole trick is to work quickly so the paint does not dry on you and plan your stratagy ahead of time. Have puffer filled and ready. Tape off areas you do not want to flock because it makes painting so much easier and faster and you do not have to be picky. Use the proper color adhesive for the color flocking in case something shows through. It is tough to redo but can be done if need be but the best advice is when you think you have flocked enough, flock some more. Never can overflock. Flocking will not hide poor joints. It is not like felt. Speaking of felt, that is another way to go. I have made many boxes and lined them with stickyback felt and looked good. Here are some examples of my flocking. One important note is allow at least 24 hours to dry. I leave it for a couple days to be sure. On the pool table I flocked the top and rails and inside the box I use felt. The piano was red cardinal flocking and the Diamond shaped box was a deep blue. I flocked the tapered pen holder as well as the underside of the lid of the box. Used same puffer for all, and it was actually easy to do.

They use flocking for decoys, like ducks etc.

Both 1/4" ply, one base plywood the other areomatic cedar.both stained with honey by varathane.wiped one left the other to soak .top coated with minwax clear . These are in scrollsawworkshop.com catologe

I'm sure this has probably been asked a thousand times but I find it interesting to see where people work out of whether it's for their vehicles or wood projects. If you are willing and as long as it's suitable for work, what does your shop look like? Here's mine. My shop is five miles away from the house in my friend's pole barn where we have the wood shop and I store three of my motorcycles along with his. Until this year, working out there during winter time just really didn't happen much as we didn't have very good heat sources. However, we finally insulated the wood shop area and I bought a torpedo heater which makes it way more comfortable now. I've done more winter time projects this year than any of the previous 7 years I have had access there combined. The wood shop area: Workshop by Scott Baker, on Flickr And where the other half of my fun life lives: My bikes (2007 Suzuki Bandit third from right, my daughter's 1981 Suzuki GS550 in the middle, and my 1981 Suzuki GS550T on the far right); my buddy's 2011/2 Suzuki Boulevard is on the far left Motorcycles in shop by Scott Baker, on Flickr A front view of the entire garage (there's a Camaro sitting to the right out of view here) IMG_5145 by Scott Baker, on Flickr

Pattern from Steve Good

Hi long time no see 3month ago I tried to make 51 states I just finished 51 states map cutting it took long time than I thought you gave me some hint and I found a lot impormations from Google hopefully I will finish this in February I still making this project

Looks great but what are you counting as the 51st state since there are only 50?

You did very well.Two one inch boards would make the inlay a bit tough to do..Dave Monk has a tube video which you can learn lots from.I use quarter inch wood for inlays.

I cut a lot of 3/4" cherry.. I use the shelf liner.. and never had any burning issues.. I also use a #5 Pegas MG blade and cuts really well.. tight turns work well with them too.. My other go to balde was always a FD - UR #5.. but I would sometimes get some burning on tight turns if I wasn't careful.. But boy do those Pegas MG blades work awesome for cutting cherry..I run pretty good speed too.. typically about 7/8 on the dial on the Hawk which probably is around 1600 -1650 SPM.. I run full speed on the EX as it tops out at 1500 SPM..

Don't know whose pattern this is but it looks really lifelike for the small amount of detail. I've been a Willie fan for over 40 years. This is about 4" x 5" on 1/2" red oak. The backer is Monkeypod.

I have 2 patterns for Willie that I haven't cut out yet. I think one of them is a Steve Good pattern, not sure of the other. I think one of them is the same pattern that you used. Looks good! He will be in concert this weekend in Orlando.

You did a great job Ralph, well done. Marg

Great job Ralph,you done the text very well.Perfect keepsake

Very cute and nicely done..I too like the brown.

Portrait looks great as does the lettering!

That does look like a tough one, but you did a good job.

I believe VS is variable speed... Your saw isn't a "variable" speed. It's a 3-4-5 or whatever many pulley - speed options it has.. variable would be the whole range of speeds.. I may be wrong but I don't think the tilting head came out until the current style saw design was made with the motor mounted to the saw body.. which I think was around 2003 ish

I've found that the more I do to a project the better it hides my mistakes!!!(glitter,stain,color,add-on's,Gloss etc.) This does look like a tough one and you weathered the storm just fine Keep your work coming

very nice

very cute

They both look good to me. Either one would be fine.

That is the same pattern I used for my first intarsia, back in the 90's. Still hanging on my wall. You did a good job on it. Tom

Nicely done. Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

The one issue I have found with MDF core plywood is when used for fine detail fretwork thin bridges are more fragile and easily broken than Baltic Birch.

very nice job

I got several requests to make multi-layered ladybug pattern and here it is: recommended to use 2 or 3 types of wood or stain Ladybug pattern Video of making

That,s right up my alley! I love religious ones! Everything about this is dynamite to see!!!

I'm fortunate in that my shop is just downstairs in my basement. Unfortunately my house is heated with electric so there is zero warmth in the basement, so I had to have an electric heater installed. Takes a while to warm up on those cold New England mornings, but in the summer it is like free air conditioning since it stays nice and cool even on the hottest summer days. Here's a picture of it after a clean up.

Here ya go Dan. I finally got back out in the shop today and cut the top piece so the inside can be seen. I took off all the patterns too. It's starting to take shape but I sure do see all the flaws. I hope if I ever make another one that I can do a better job. I know I'm my own worst critic but I hate when I screw up.

Very nice set up Travis. It does go to prove though that no matter how much space you have, it will never be enough. Ray