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Just got this finished. You can read about the progress in the works in progress tab under Another something new.

While working the large flower bowl I decided to go for a rectangle -- my take on a bread bowl of sorts. I think it came out pretty sweet!! 4/4 Black Limba (love this stuff) cut with a #9 modified geometry - 30 degree angle on this one. These are a bit more difficult than the ovals were - mostly in sanding those inside corners. Also they are actually thicker in the walls than the shape of the top suggests

Just bought this board for $35. The store is going out of business and everything is discounted. The man who owned it just past away and his wife just wants everything gone. It’s 48 x 17 x 1 1/8.

Beautiful work, Dave! I certainly don't see any imperfections in the triangles to be worried about! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Cut this out of some 3/4 ply I had left over after building a twin bed for my daughter. Pegas #7MG blade, Minwax Cherry stain.

I have realized Ive used so many different brands , and even the same blade can change from year to year - sometimes the teeth cut deeper sometimes more shallow - when ever anyone asks me what i use i tell them general sizes -but even with that , 5 different people will like 5 different brands or sizes -becasue not every saw cuts the same and how you cut is different -alot like different kinds of cars -its crazy - some blades like pegas for example dont seem to last for long on a particular saw --

I'm re-doing the little flower bowl in a larger size and this time I took some progress pics that may help you see the method I came up with. In the first pic I've already done the outside cut at 40 degrees angled outward and set up for the next cut - this time at 35 degrees inward on the same line. The second pic shows that cut complete. From there I dropped the angle by 5 degrees per cut -- starting at the beginning it's 40 - 35 - 30 - 25 - 20 - then 15 for the final cut (the base). You do have to adjust the cut lines as you go inward or you won't end up with enough glue surface --each layer needed re-drawn as I went -- I feel like there may be a smoother way to do it but I haven't found it yet (maybe reverse the cut order and start at the base?). Also sanding the sides can be scary as some of the wall areas are thinner than I'd like because of the angle changes - especially in the 5 corners -- In these pics nothing is glued to together yet -- it would almost look cool to leave the outside like this and just smooth out the inside but we'll see next time.

mine is almost identical - not the atlas name think i bought it for like 50 bucks a zillion years ago. since then i bought a full size metal working rockwell delta from a local BOCES for like 100 bucks - but the original drill press will stay when we down size .

Like everyone has said, to each their own. I started with Olson because they were the only local brand available. I then went online and picked a Flying Dutchman brand mainly because I work with a Dutchman who flies. I started with an intro pack and saw which ones I used and now order them from Leslies saw blades. There is a reference page in SSV of where to get products. That might help you with not only blades, but other items.

That is one "good ole arn" press...congrats... I have an old Walker Turner floor model...can appreciate the Atlas.

I don't necessarily like to deal with these guys on a regular basis.. as sometimes they're slow.. But they do offer all three of the major brands and they also offer sample packs.. of each style blade.. Just click on the brand and then the style blade ( ie go to Pegas and then choose MG blades.. at the top they offer Intro packs ).. I bought samples of each style of Pegas when I first learned of the Pegas blades.. The intro packs of each style Pegas offered.. Yeah was a bit pricey but I quickly learned which blades I liked best and what ones I'll likely never use.. It's nice to be able to buy all the Intro packs from all the major brands all in one place.. Used to be everyone sold the intro packs.. now I rarely see them.. and it's a shame they don't make these more available.. I wonder if this company re-packages the blades to make the intro packs.. because i never see any others offering them any more.. Mike from FD blades used to and maybe they still do.. They don't ever make it easy to find that's for sure.. LOL http://www.scrollsawbladespatterns.com/index.htm

Beautiful work Jim.

your work is just beautiful!!! I was thinking of trying to do some inlay work but I have to gt out my books and reread that part, if I remember right you tild the saw one way to make the inlay fllush with the wood and another way if you want it to stick out of the top a little....hum or maybe im thinking of something else all together!! lol doing a lot of research on the things iv forgotten,, looking through my patterns and doing a little scroll sawing in-between!!

Thank you for your respect for my efforts, but to be honest, I do fairly good quality and a LOT of quantity. People tell me I have talent but I tell them "No I have perseverance" Life is good. This is my latest: It is a offering box for a local church. I have made three of them. It is made of Ash with inlay of their church logo, using Mahogany and Maple and stained with golden oak stain. Finished with Lacquer, inside and out. Measures 7"x 10" x 3 1/2". Slots in the end are for the offerings to the church to be inserted as it is passed instead of an offering plate. This was inspired by the current virus scare.

Good advise here. Try all three brands mentioned above. Personally I have settled on Pegas blades that I get from Denny.

I will respectfully disagree on that quote. @Jim Finn has that title by a long shot.

CharleyL posted how he developed a precision drill press table. This started my search for another bench top drill press. I have a floor drill and a bench drill press but it is in my basement shop which does me no good in the scroll shop. I use the Dremel plunge router to poke holes in my patterns but it does wobble a bit and is cumbersome to change drill bits. I had looked at several from Ryobi to Harbor Freight. Last night i spotted an Atlas bench top drill press. Circa late 40's to 50's. This is a fantastic piece of iron. Very heavy with a chuck that will grip a #70 drill bit accurately. It had been posted for only a couple hours on Facebook marketplace. Price was $75. I committed to buy it sight unseen. Picked it up this afternoon. Should say my wife and I managed to get into her SUV. Getting home a neighbor carried it into my shop. A new belt, a little rust remover and a few drops of oil and it's good to go. CharleyL's lazer information will get the lazer ordered and installed.

My wife wanted a portrait of a boxer dog to give her dad for Father's Day ,found this pattern on here from sue walker/shadylady so big thanks for the pattern turned out ok I think !

Most times I never seem to get all that much oily blade issues.. and I rarely ever clean them... however today opening up a new pack of blades the oil was almost dripping off of them.. There was no way I was putting them in my storage tubes like that as that oil would spread on the next several batches of blades and probably affect me for several months or years LOL.. So I took the three dozen I had in my hand that was getting ready to go into the tubes and went and grabbed a can of brake cleaner.. I sprayed all the blades still bundled up with the wire wrapping.. A light bulb went off in my tiny brain.. why not spray the whole batch at once like this... maybe some of you do? Back when I used to clean the blades I always did just one at a time as I used them.. Now.. you probably shouldn't do that if you're not using the blades up very fast.. That doesn't seem to be an issue for me with my most commonly used blades.. Anyway, I just thought it was easier and faster to spray them clean of oil with a quick spray of brake cleaner.. all three dozen was cleaned in less than a minute, LOL

I see Walker Turner floor drill presses on craigslist occasionally. The are pretty pricey or would own one!

I use danish oil then finish off with satin polyurethane -- from what I've read given time almost any finish (barring nut oil like walnut) is food safe --- I think I read 3 to 6 months to fully harden and it's fine -- oh I also finish off with a beeswax and orange oil polish

Looks great Barb!

That is one cool bowl.

Very unique! I like making bowls but you had better like sanding if going to make one.

terrific job

very nice job

super job, it's beautiful

I took the plunge today..... I measured the top clamp height 4” I removed the rubber bump stop and cut off the “boss” Tried to drill a new mounting hole and broke the first drill bit. Not messing with that! I fired up the 3D printer and printed a cylindrical piece 1/2” across and 1/4” high. Glued that to the upright about 1/2” below where the original was. I now have 6” height from table to top clamp. Will give that a try for a few days. I have tried TOP feeding but just can’t get on with it.

That turned out great...is that your pattern ?

Nice!!!

Have to say the work was worth the effort. It looks great!

Never heard of black limba but it makes a beautiful bowl. Nicely done!

ray, good luck with the move if that happens. we did that 5 years ago and i dont want to do it again! only plus side was i found stuff i thought was lost for good!

I barely have room for what I have Doug. No room for a second bandsaw. Or the budget. But, things might be changing. We are thinking hard about moving to Knoxville area. If that happens it will open up many possibilities. Fingers crossed!

Looks great Barb!

ray, from what i have read online on other forums is it will fit, but the dowel pin holes may not line up. everything else should fit. a friend who is now gone had the riser block in his delta saw. i never felt like it could properly tension a blade. i dont know if the saw flexed or what. i never could do real well resawing with his saw. this is why i am looking for a new or used bandsaw that will only be set up to resaw. IIRC there was something about the bolt being a smaller size on the riser kit and you would have to buy a larger bolt and nut and washers. for me i am going to buy a resaw bandsaw and keep my delta 14 inch for cutting other stuff with smaller blades. doug

Good question. I'm getting very interested in band saws lately.Don't know about yours but all the tips and tricks I find on band saws are worth reading and doing. Simple placement of the teeth in the center of the top wheel gets accurate cuts, for one.

I have absolutely NO experience. That said, If I was modifying my tool I would buy the product from the manufacturer for ease of support.

This advice helped me so much!

If you ask 5 scrollers, you will get 5 different answers. I will buy Flying Dutchman from Mikes Workshop, Sharktooth from Scrollers Online, and On Line blades from Judy Gale Roberts.

It's ok to have more than 1 "Box Man".

So great! Your work is never disappointing, always amazing!

Thanks, Dan (?)...exactly what I needed. I'll be shopping on line as I have plenty of time while cleaning and some maintenance on the saw. I will search around unless you have a good place to buy them...? from Denny...? Thanks again...

As a distributor for Pegas, I recommend the Pegas MGT blades and as Dan suggests the Pegas Skip blades. I don’t have sample packs available, send me a PM and I will get you started.

As a scroll saw instructor, I recommend starting with a skip tooth blade first. A skip tooth is a good general duty blade that clears dust away more efficiently than most others blades. Without reverse teeth you don’t have to worry about The the blade trying to lift the wood off of the table. Flying Dutchman, Pegas and Olson all have a good skip tooth blade. I would get sizes #1, #3 and ##5. Once you master those, then go on to different styles. When I teach a beginners class, I start the students off with Olson #5 skip tooth blades, on 3/4” pine. Personally, I use mostly Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades in sizes 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9. I also use FD Polar blades which is a skip tooth blade, and I also use Olson reverse tooth blades. I have tried Pegas Modified Geometry blades, and they are good, but not good enough to change over.

First off welcome to the addiction ( hobby ) . I would suggest trying different brands and sizes of blades. You'll get a lot of information here as well as opinions. Personally I like Flying Dutchmen . Other swear by Pegas, Olson and many other brands. Each brand has it's own feel and they all cut wood, but have a slightly different feel to them . I get my blades from Mike's Workshop ( also the same as Wooden Teddy Bear ) at a very reasonable price and free shipping. Other will chime in on their particular blades of choice too and places where they purchase them for you. As for other questions, please feel free to ask, a lot of the people up here love to share knowledge and experience and opinions. Just an all around great place to be. Remember to exercise patience while learning and most importantly, have fun.

Been doing a little cutting this week.. Made two of each on most all of these.. Also cut about 15 puzzles..

1/4" BB, no backer while cutting it and used a #2 Pike jewelers blade. Someone has posted this before but I loved the pattern. Sam is one of my favorite designers.

I clean mine with some denatured alcohol and a paper towel. Doesn't normally take a lot on normal manufacturing residue . May have to wipe down several times if they are dripping with oil, never experienced that issue. I have read someplace a while ago that mineral spirits works also . Best of luck.

Love it