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Mostly 3/8 BB cut with #1, 0 and 2/0 Pegas spiral blades.

some stuff i have done recently. the wind chimes was my design after my old one fell apart. i kept the pipes. the tennis ball clock was something i came up with too. the flowers and gun are patterns i bought.

I've been trying to get a few new items made to add to my arsenal.. Here is a few I recently done.. Just playing around.. have more new ones on deck to cut today.. Couldn't remember if I shared those last two trucks or not.. but if so here they are again, LOL

The pattern is by Jacob Fowler and found in the book "Woodworker's Pattern Book". The wood is Cherry 3/8" x 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" and backed with Baltic Birch plywood 3/8" x 8" x 8" stained black. It was cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. The finish is one dip in diluted Shellac and three coats Minwax spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Comments welcome.

The pattern is by Diana Thompson, but I modified it by inlaying a horse. I follower Jim Finn's recommendation to use 3/8" stock for the inlay. My wife suggested the white horse inlayed into the Walnut. All other woods are scraps. It was cut on the EX21 using FD Polar #3 and #9 blades. Yes, I still have some FD blades at home. The finish is three coats of Minwax spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Comments welcome.

A Mike Williams pattern

I have finished the 3 dogs pattern that TDpainter drew for me. Thanks again Travis. I used a mix of blades on this, including spirals, but I reckon the ply was was too thin at 1/8", I reckon it should have been 1/4" baltic birch at least. The original request can be found in 'Pattern Requests'

I can't believe anyone sitting to have their pattern made would not take the time to do something with their hair! 1/4" BB, #2 Pike jewelers blade. Still needs a 50/50 BLO bath, a backer and a frame. Dimitri posted this picture a while back but am not sure if he is the designer.

I've been real busy making clocks and something that I hate doing is the base.. typically for the car clocks the base is 11 x 2" with rounded corners.. Over the years I've tried many ways of trying to make them in a productive way.. I used to just scroll saw them out.. but doing those long straight 11" length of cuts and then the rounded corners takes a lot of patients and time.. Then I started just cutting 2" strips on the table or band saw.. But then the challenge was getting the rounded corners.. either scrolling the ends still or hand shaping them on the belt / disc sander.. this requires a lot of sanding and shaping.. and a challenge to get all rounded corners symmetrical.. I've been wanting to do this for a long time now but never got around to getting a spoil board set up on my CNC so I don't cut into the CNC bed.. Well a few weeks back I had a custom request to engrave a message on the clock base.. so I set up the machine to engrave the base and then cut the outline ( profile ) so it left 1/8" left to cut on my scroll saw.. still leaves me a bit of cutting sanding and minor shaping but a lot faster than scrolling the whole 3/4" thick stock.. Even with a spoil board I'd have to leave tabs ( bridges ) to hold the piece from flying off the machine so there is still going to always be a but of sawing / sanding / shaping.. This makes things so much easier for me as the CNC can be cutting bases while I scroll the clocks.. etc.. Plus.. I'm able to engrave my website on the bottom.. I haven't cut these out just yet and sanded shaped etc.. but the custom one I did a few weeks back was very quick and easy to cut and shape.. as the CNC does the majority of the work.. Here is a short video of the machine working for me and then a photo at the end of the bottom of the bases after I painted the text.. Some will probably disagree with using the CNC to help out. I understand that.. you have to understand this is a hobby / living for me.. and making 4-5 hundred bases a year is not a fun process for me.. Love scrolling the clock itself.. but not so much doing long straight cuts for the base's. etc.. Having the machine make these allows me now time to make the stuff I enjoy making..

SSV nation, I joined in January and one of the first things I saw was a skull pattern. It reminded me of a good friend whom I have known for 20 years. I made a promise to myself that once I cut this skull, I have achieved my goal and I can cut just about anything. Below is the photo with 1/4 maple plywood and thin backing. The lesson learned here is to only have friends that like unicorns and not skull.

It's handcrafted you had to use your hands to program the laser or Cnc, put the wood on the table and clamp it down.

I don’t understand the sanding aspect, I must have done 100 of these mini bird houses and I never sand any of them. Might have used a sanding mop on some, but I used a sealing coat first and then 2 to 4 coats of spray shellac.

This is an experiment. I cut this with #2 jewelers blades to determine whether the top thin layer would delaminate. I think that's a word. As you can see the front had one very tiny delamination. There's that word again. The reason for this is the blades have no reverse teeth to lift up the top thin layer. The backside is horribly delaminated which I don't care about as a backer will be applied. What this means to me I will be cutting more Luan as it is very inexpensive. This would not work as well with blades having reverse teeth.

I have scrolled a lot of Charles Dearing patterns recently. Charles writes that he gets requests to simplify his patterns. I like his more detailed works. He has a simplified Willie Nelson pattern that, though I liked, I found it too simple. So, after I finished it, I randomly drilled a bunch more holes Willy-Nilly, and just free formed my way to a bit fuller finished product. As I often do, I reduced the size down to 9 1/2”x 6 1/2.” I’m pretty happy with how it turn out.

Thanks Ray.

Fires? Fume extraction would be my biggest concern. Cutting the gears for a wooden clock with a laser, wheres the challenge in that. Scrolling precision gears was the most fun on all three of my clocks.

Awesome I love this it looks fantastic

Kevin, I use V-Carve desktop 10.0 on my Stepcraft CNC router and it is a good combination. I used it to cut the parts for a wooden geared clock which it does almost perfectly compared to cutting with the scroll saw. I also have a large laser engraver, around 500 mm by 650 mm that does a great job engraving but can only cut through 1/8" ply. This engraver I use 'T2 Laser' program on and it works faultlessly. I recommend you have a look at 'T2 Laser' as Zax (the writer) is the most knowledgeable person I know with laser programming. His programme is a free download and free trial and I think about $30 to purchase, I have it on 3 machines, the original I purchased and then 2 others I installed on other computers at half price. The free trial is limited to 30 minutes at a time then you have to reload but it gives you a good idea of what you can do. I think it all 'hand crafting' whatever way you look at it and I am happy saying my stuff is 'home made'. Just my 2 cents ..... PS I don't think you are cheating

Looks good Don, well done. Marg

Wow! That is really nice. Looks like it would be fun to make. I too, thank you for the info about the blades. Where do you get the Jewelers blades?

Wow, that is great work!

Well done!!!

Nice work Brent!

Looks very good.

A Steve Good pattern, a Charles Dearing and a Fiona Kingdin....Gave the garden sign to my neighbor and cut the wind swept tree and the winter farm scene just cause !...Comments welcome ! The tree is cut from spalted maple 3/4.

i agree with everyone else there great!!!

oh wow!! that looks great!!

love it!!that looks great!!!

you did a fantastic job on that!!! that is totaly awsome!!

Great way to recycle and get an awesome product! Good thinking on usage of the door.

fantastic!! willie is one of my favorits! you did a great job111

Great work and thanks for sharing that tidbit of info about the blades.

Kevin have a look at "Lightburn" software also. Unfortunately I can't use it with my "Toy" laser. I just looked up what the actual power on my 7 Watt laser is. 2.5 W blue laser, that is why it is only good for engraving, which is what I wanted.

Awesomeness!!! Minwax "Gunstock" gives a nice orange tint, I've found works well for tiger cuts.

very nice job

On my pegas clamps I sometimes have reset the set screw so the blade clamp will work. The set screw moves out over time, I just haven't got around to using some loctite so it doesn't unscrew itself.

I bought the Pegas set for my Delta scroll saw. But the blade chuck/clamps have not been any better than what came with the Delta. After six months I am now having to use pliers to tighten the Pegas blade clamps. Same drill with the Delta clamps. So I don't really see any advantage to the Pegas blade chuck/clamps. The original Delta saw I bought 18 months ago had to go in for warranty repairs on January 27. And just got it back this week! Over 5 months to repair! I knew it might be a problem and that's why I bought a second Delta on sale at Home Depot to cover me while the first one was in for repair. There is a 5 year warranty on the Delta. I would like to hear about all those Pegas saws out there. How are they holding up? Bear in mind I use a saw daily since I have a puzzle business! And wear out a Delta and DeWalt after 12-18 months. If the Pegas saw is any better I would buy as it is pain to take in the Deltas and DeWalts for for repair. And if there is a problem with the Pegas saws how do you get it repaired? Fortunately there are Delta and DeWalt repair centers within an hour of where I live. bb

When using these blades the way the grain is going will really matter. Notice its a lot of the across grain areas that delam. Great looking piece.

Why is the Pegas blade holder better than the Delta? Will I have less vibration?

Thanks Jerry, that's how I feel.. and as I said.. handmade / handcrafted can have a very different meaning from one person to another.. The important thing to me is that my customer is satisfied with whatever they buy ( most could care less how it's made.. they're just happy to buy something unique that cannot be found in a local Walmart ).. If my products were to be 100% handmade.. heck I have no idea how to make the clock fit-up.. nor can I hand draw patterns.. Lot's of folks make "handmade" round signs.. They scroll the words and glue them to purchased rounds.. most of which are made in China.. I feel my CNC carved base is more handmade than the China purchased rounds that the handmade signs are made from.. which by the way.. I do consider handmade.. I just wish they'd buy USA made rounds etc if they're doing that.. but who am I to judge them. My opinion.. saying my CNC made base makes my products not handmade anymore is like saying a hand woodburned image on a china made wood shape purchased from hobby lobby isn't handmade..LOL and I'm sure some feel that isn't handmade because of that.. At what point does one draw the line to decide what is really hand made and what isn't..

Might just be me, but I would be far more interested in the clock being cut out on the scroll saw than the base. I couldn't care less about the base; it's only a means to an end to display the real handcrafted work, which would be the clock section. I think you've found a way to speed up production while keeping your focus on the real handcrafted draw to your pieces: the clock. Goodonya!

Nice work! Several years ago I did this same basic thing.. and had the same results.. It's great cheap stuff to use for just playing around it the shop that is easier on the pocketbook.. but it's not something sturdy enough for my opinion to make and sell the pieces.. some cuttings are very fragile even with a quality BB ply.. and i don't think this stuff would be at all a good choice for those types of projects.. Looks like you had a good time cutting it and a nice experiment.. so that's a win win for you..

Hope the crowed was good and had their stimulus money handy for you

I prefer hand crafted. That said I will admit being in the same business that working smarter not harder is the way to go. Glad you found a solution to make thing easier for you and raising your production rate a bit.

looks great!!! and I love the fact that you used recycled materals!!!

I looked on woodpeckers site and could not find the Baltic birch, but on amazon is from woodpeckers, strange,RJ

Like new saw said, maybe needs to be broke in, but before I take a stab at it, does the acceleration occur when your not cutting wood? Also, does it occur at different speeds like that? I don’t own a Jet, but these are an attempt to isolate the problem. I have a Dewalt 788 Type 1 and I can run it at any speed without any problems. Just my two cents.

I have had the same issue with my EX-21. The first time it happened I removed the top plastic piece and checked for lose parts. Didn’t find anything so put the plastic top on again. Saw ran normally for quite a while. When it happened again, I blew compressed air into the space by the top arm. Saw settled down again. I found if I ran it at full speed it generally pulsated, so I always ran it at a little under full. The saw was practically brand new when I bought it, after a while it seemed to break in, and I could run it full speed if I wished and it would act fine. Not sure how new your Jet is, but it could just need broken in.

I put all small metal pieces into a large plastic jug. Not just blades. If it's metal and fits through the top, it goes in the jug. Scroll saw blades, nails, screws, staples, and anything else that is small and could wind up cutting you or puncturing a tire. Little bits of metal have a nasty habit of winding up in places you would rather not have them like a tire or the bottom of your foot.

I have already done some projects for pet and dog lovers, this time I made one for cat lovers "I love cats" pattern Video of making Cats