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Something new I just finished up.

So yesterday I had a repeat customer ask about making a 1965 Corvette ( her dad is a car collector and I've made them about 8 - 10 clocks they tell me each one get's more detail ) and asked me if I would be able to do the side pipes and the wheels, LOL.. Just so happen that I recently ordered the "Stingray " puzzle from Scott not long ago.. that has side pipes and the wheel style they was looking for.. I asked about having the word cut out and showed the pattern to them.. They liked the idea but I said I would cut both ways and see what way they like it.. I intended to show her both today but the first cut I messed up the cutting in the back wheel and it fell apart, LOL.. I gotta say.. the puzzle version is much easier to cut because to make this a clock I had to shrink the size of the car down by about 35% which makes all the cutting smaller and the distance between some bridges etc. much smaller too.. Hoping since I showed them just the one maybe they'll just want it and i won't need to make the other, LOL... actually now that I've cut it once or twice I know tricks and what to watch out for so it won't be as bad next time.. I didn't show the side view of their car as they was in it for those photos... but this view shows the side pipes and wheels.. I'll show the finished piece once it's done.. Might be a few more days as I've got a Nova order and a Plymouth GTX order to do.. that just came in..

I’ve always been an advocate of using the factory stand for any saw as they are designed to Help inhibit vibration.

Well hell lets add one more to the collection, I prefer titebond translucent for woodworking and frames. Add saw dust where needed to fill gaps after filling with the translucent glue

About a week ago I finally put my saw on the stand and I'm impressed -- what little vibration it had is about gone -- I've heard of the nickel test so I gave it a shot -- in one of them I tried feeding the wood with one hand since I didn't bother with setting up the tripod -- this is running at full speed with a #1 pegas MG on 1/4 Baltic video-1591922791.mp4 video-1591922255.mp4

I make small boxes of cedar or ash. I cut the corners of the four sides on my miter saw and apply white Elmer's glue and hold them together with rubber bands. It sets up fast though. On larger projects, I still use Elmer's white glue and tape the corners together before applying clamps. This glue dries clear .

You can make the frames by using tape at the corners to hold them together before putting on the clamps. This is a trick used in box making to hold the corners together. Lay the outside edge of one of the frame members on the sticky side of a piece of tape, with some of the tape extending out. Then put the next one against it, then tape to the rest of the frame in the same manner. Leave the last piece of tape sticking out. Put the glue on the joints and kind of roll up the frame so the joints are together. This will hold the frame together while you get the clamps on. Or just put staples in the back or nails into the joint to hold it without clamping. Hope you can make sense of this. Tom

I bought one of the H/F foot switches a couple of years ago and when I bought the EX saw, it came with one just like it. I have always hated those two switches because of the way the wires run on them. The saw cord plugs in the front of the switch and the power cord comes out the side of the switch. It has always made positioning the switch very difficult. So, today, I finally had had enough of an inanimate object getting the better of me. I took one of them apart to see where everything was positioned inside of the body of the switch and saw that there was room to reroute the wiring and make both power cords come out the front. All I had to do was drill a hole in the plastic body and reroute stuff. Here is a pic of what it was like before I did anything. I failed to take a pic of what it looked like once done but you can figure it out. A very simple fix. I'm glad it's done. Now both switches lay where I want them to.

some stuff i have done recently. the wind chimes was my design after my old one fell apart. i kept the pipes. the tennis ball clock was something i came up with too. the flowers and gun are patterns i bought.

I agree with Dan.. When I first got my EX-21 I was surprised how much vibration it had just sitting it on a bench.. then I had mounted it to a cheap HF stand that I had another tool mounted on at one time but sold the tool and kept the stand.. stand footprint was too small so I bolted a piece of plywood on it.. It had more vibration mounted to that stand than it did just setting on a bench.. Finally I picked up a actual EX-21 stand and what a difference... All that said.. I think a nice heavy built wood stand would work pretty well provided you mount the saw in the center of it to distribute the weight to the stand and legs evenly..

Very well done!

I've used a lot of different glues to glue the clock to the base.. and one day while shopping at Menards I ran across the tite bond translucent glue.. I've been using it exclusively for a couple years now and really like it.. That said.. I've never had any issues with any other wood glues in the past.. I've used a lot of different name brands..

I guess I'll throw my 2 cents in here. Someone suggested 30 minute epoxy and for the project you described I think that is a solid suggestion. Wood glue works best when the faces meet well. If your stock is 'off' and gaps are created IMHO epoxy will fill gaps and hold better that poly glues. And the nice thing is they can be tinted to match your stock. Then the clamping. I like band clamps and use one but for difficult work I use this crazy system. I've made these little corner jigs. The bottom (the part that comes in contact with your frame) has 100g sand paper attached with DST. Prevents slippage in clamping. Just look at the pic. The jigs are clamped to the frame members first and then a F style clamp pulls the corner together. This lets you focus on each joint individually. I usually just clamp half the project, let the glue set up and then do the other corners.

I get mine from amazon

I honestly didnt know about this titebond - building some cabinet doors this morning for my daughter might be the ticket -thanks for the information ! ( will order it )

I mainly use Titebond 3 on all my projects haven seen the translucent glue in the stores will have to look for it and give it a try.

Just to add. When I need increased open time for repeat positioning when making model airplanes I prefer 30 minute epoxy. LOL, I've used most of those glues. Guess I'm a collector of sorts.

My wife gave me clear chalkboard glue since she is a teacher and I use that to mend mistakes with. Have had an error yet which requires sawdust and would like to keep it that way!

Great cut, I love it.

Very nice indeed. Marg

Looks great

Dick, the blue you used for the background is really attractive with the blond wood. Very attractive work!

Les, I use Pony strap clamp for my frames, but I think any brand strap clamps should do the job.the most important factor in frame making is making precise 45° cuts and just as important, is cutting each pair of sides exactly the same length. If one side is longer, even a fraction of an inch, the frame will not be square. As for glues that you show, I would use the Titebond, but any of the white Or yellow glues will work without any problems. I don’t bother reinforcing the corners as I glue the art piece into the frame.

I bought the pattern from scrolleronline.com

Very fine work all around, Dick !

Nice to hear that others cherish the time with their mates as so many go about just doing their own thing and almost forgetting that they are married, it seems Dick heppnerguy

That looks fantastic you cut that really well

What an incredible undertaking this was!!! Great addition to your wall of Fame!!! Chuck, you,ve really come along way in a year!!! Good job!!!

Don I will check out that site.

Great job on Willie, looks outstanding. Well done. jim

Nicely done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

SSV nation, I joined in January and one of the first things I saw was a skull pattern. It reminded me of a good friend whom I have known for 20 years. I made a promise to myself that once I cut this skull, I have achieved my goal and I can cut just about anything. Below is the photo with 1/4 maple plywood and thin backing. The lesson learned here is to only have friends that like unicorns and not skull.

The pattern is by Diana Thompson, but I modified it by inlaying a horse. I follower Jim Finn's recommendation to use 3/8" stock for the inlay. My wife suggested the white horse inlayed into the Walnut. All other woods are scraps. It was cut on the EX21 using FD Polar #3 and #9 blades. Yes, I still have some FD blades at home. The finish is three coats of Minwax spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Comments welcome.

I have looked at that pattern and always thought it would be a fun one to cut. Thanks for posting your nicely done pattern for all of us to enjoy Dick heppnerguy

This is my third bee pattern, I like bee projects - they always looks nice and people like them Video of making Bee pattern

If you ask 5 scrollers, you will get 5 different answers. I will buy Flying Dutchman from Mikes Workshop, Sharktooth from Scrollers Online, and On Line blades from Judy Gale Roberts.

I have recently been sawing some rather large pieces of fret work and one of the most difficult things I have had to deal with, is getting the blade through the hole in the middle parts of the pattern. The holes are quite small and almost impossible to see, let alone trying to get the blade in the hole. I have been using an awl to poke into the bottom part of the hole, so that it is enlarged a little to help with this problem. This does help but I still have a lot of problems. Then I saw someone mention about also using the point of a pencil, sticking it into the hole and turning the pencil so that it also marks the hole with it's lead. This also helped quite a bit to see exactly where the hole actually is. However, as I was watching the video of the moon shiner guy, I noticed the maker of the plaque and the poster of the video, was using some kind of tool on the back side of the holes he had drilled. After I watched it a second time and thought it through, I took on of the pieces I was working on and had drilled what must have been done with a drill bit about 1/32 inch or smaller and with a 1/16th bid, drilled the back side of the hole just enough for a part of the tapered bit head went into the hole. I would estimate it to be, perhaps, one layer of 1/8 inch BB Ply. This created a very small funnel shape in the wood and once that was done, It was so much easier to feel and feed the saw blade into the hole. It was almost like i could do it blindfolded. Dick heppnerguy