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Hello friends, a little work of my favorite hero. I hope you like it, in advance thanks for your comments. Be very careful during the corona virus-19 pandemic, ok?

About 8" in diameter, finished with a light coat of Watco Danish Oil. 1/2" BB #3 Pegas MG. Pattern was just an image from Internet that I grabbed from some site and sized to fit.

I designed this Razorback ornament the other day. My first attempt at drawing my own design. I need to make a few modifications, but I think it turned out good for the first one.

Something new I just finished up.

As Larry mentioned, the first link is cracked. Heat it with a heat gun or hair dryer and pop it off. Then heat the next one and pop it back on. Blow on it to cool it off and presto, it’s just like new!

The connection from the to the metal ball is loose. Because the connector to the ball has a slight crack in it and that makes it loose. Pop the one off and use the next one

As some of you know, I have personally met several of the scroll saw family members. As a result, I have some new friends that I contact whenever I have the opportunity to do so. I have been able to go to Paul's (scrappile) house several times and we have become great friends and talk often on the phone. The first person I met from here was Travis, our chief cook and bottle washer. You know, the person that does all the hard work to keep us up and running smoothly. We had lunch together, a couple of years ago. And Ralph who lives in Aloha, Oregon. We too have met and chatted a couple of times. Anyway yesterday I had the opportunity to drive 45 minutes and meet yet another rather new and very talented member. He is not only very talented but he was very enjoyable to talk with. His name is Bill and he goes by 'cashew', here. Usually after I have visited with one of our members, people ask, "where are the photos ?". So this time I took a photo of both of us to show you. I am the ugly one on the left side in the photo. If you have never met any of the members here, I would suggest that you take the time to do so. An hour drive is worth your time. Dick heppnerguy

I have been trying to spend more time with my wife and less in my shop. She does not complain of my time there but we are getting up there in age and I know we do not have a lot of time left to be together, so I do not want to spend too much time away from her and then have to regret that I put my hobby time in front of our time together. . That said, The Jones plaque is for my older son as part of his upcoming birthday. The letter plaque is an added present to my great granddaughter who is having an birthday this week and I thought she might like this little tuck in. It is a Steve Good pattern. The Baby star plaque is for our third new great grandbaby born within this calendar year. This one is a Sue Mey pattern and I have another new great grandson who will be born this month also and I am just waiting for the date to get that one finished. Dick heppnerguy

About 4 minutes into the video Nick Engler talks about gluing end grain to end grain in a butt joint. I have done this using this method, and I can't break them apart. I suppose I could clamp one end in a vise and beat it with a 4lb hammer or use a pry bar on it, but I don't see the point. An old retired Army guy mentioned this to me several years ago, and I kept meaning to try it but never did until recently. https://youtu.be/Wmw5rayNIV4

Les, I use PVA, almost any marked "for wood". Selly's or Parfix Almost all PVA glues are stronger than the timber. Butt joints or end grain can be a problem, but only in where stress is involved. When making frames I usually just staple across the joint on the back and then clamp down flat to a board. If mitres are cut correctly this will give a serviceable and sufficient bond. Sometimes I will use a feather across the cnr, more for decoration, but it adds strength.

I use the HF strap clamp like you use. I use TiteBond 2 glue. Have you ever looked at rush cedar? It would be more consistent than thickness.

I just fixed mine Monday. Pop the first piece off and stick it back on. If it’s like mine, it will go back on hard.

I have done the above and helped with Dewalt but with the Ex 21 it was just plan loosey goosey and I used a little red loc tite and it is working great so far.

Les, I use Pony strap clamp for my frames, but I think any brand strap clamps should do the job.the most important factor in frame making is making precise 45° cuts and just as important, is cutting each pair of sides exactly the same length. If one side is longer, even a fraction of an inch, the frame will not be square. As for glues that you show, I would use the Titebond, but any of the white Or yellow glues will work without any problems. I don’t bother reinforcing the corners as I glue the art piece into the frame.

About a week ago I finally put my saw on the stand and I'm impressed -- what little vibration it had is about gone -- I've heard of the nickel test so I gave it a shot -- in one of them I tried feeding the wood with one hand since I didn't bother with setting up the tripod -- this is running at full speed with a #1 pegas MG on 1/4 Baltic video-1591922791.mp4 video-1591922255.mp4

I've got adhesives by the number Adhesives by the score Every time I turn around I swear I find some more! Actually this is a two part question, adhesives and frame clamps. I make most of my frames from cedar fence stakes. They are very rough, often cupped, uneven thickness, etc. I like the looks of the frames because they are rustic. In spite of of problems with the materials I try to make the frames as accurately as possible. I have old Craftsman corner clamps, Pony strap clamps as well as H/F strap clamps. Of the three I like the H/F straps the best. My dilemma is the adhesive. It take a fair bit of time to get the straps positioned accurately. The adhesive needs to remain open until the straps or clamps can be tightened. There has been discussion on clamps previously but not on adhesives that I know of. Need some advice on adhesives. Currently I glue the best I can then pop some staples in the corners from the back. I also have thin, medium and gap filling ca, tube of Loctite cement, JB Weld and more. What to use?

I can't believe I haven't found this site before now. I've been scrolling for about 15 years. I mostly work with smaller and simpler items - crosses and such. I came across this forum while looking for information on creating a pattern of my church (I'm a pastor). I don't trust myself, so I was looking for tutorials. I've attached a few of my more recent projects.

Just wondering if there are any scrollers out there from northern Arkansas or southern Missouri.

I can't believe anyone sitting to have their pattern made would not take the time to do something with their hair! 1/4" BB, #2 Pike jewelers blade. Still needs a 50/50 BLO bath, a backer and a frame. Dimitri posted this picture a while back but am not sure if he is the designer.

Nicely done Les

Great work. Enjoy your time with you wife. Mimi

Sorry! Brain fart! Rough cedar....Most big box stores have it. I think the thickness is pretty consistent.

very nice

Wow! Thats nice!

It looks terrific Frank, well done. Marg

Lovely work

Nicely done, Frank! Thanks for sharing. You be careful also during this pandemic. God Bless! Spirithorse

Really nice Frank.

if you dont have a heat gun, boil some water and dip the tube in that for a minute or two. it will loosen up enough to work. It will be hotter than hell so wear gloves or something. Sort of happens when you dip stuff in boiling water but of course I have to learn stuff the hard way.

Check the member's map in the Community forum. You can also check the member's activity to see if they are currently active. Tom

Nice!

Nice cutting on a great pattern! Looks good.

Very nice cutting, Frank !

Very well done .I like it.

Looks great frank, very nice work!

Good looking clamping system you use.

I agree with Dan.. When I first got my EX-21 I was surprised how much vibration it had just sitting it on a bench.. then I had mounted it to a cheap HF stand that I had another tool mounted on at one time but sold the tool and kept the stand.. stand footprint was too small so I bolted a piece of plywood on it.. It had more vibration mounted to that stand than it did just setting on a bench.. Finally I picked up a actual EX-21 stand and what a difference... All that said.. I think a nice heavy built wood stand would work pretty well provided you mount the saw in the center of it to distribute the weight to the stand and legs evenly..

I make small boxes of cedar or ash. I cut the corners of the four sides on my miter saw and apply white Elmer's glue and hold them together with rubber bands. It sets up fast though. On larger projects, I still use Elmer's white glue and tape the corners together before applying clamps. This glue dries clear .

I've used a lot of different glues to glue the clock to the base.. and one day while shopping at Menards I ran across the tite bond translucent glue.. I've been using it exclusively for a couple years now and really like it.. That said.. I've never had any issues with any other wood glues in the past.. I've used a lot of different name brands..

I get mine from amazon

I honestly didnt know about this titebond - building some cabinet doors this morning for my daughter might be the ticket -thanks for the information ! ( will order it )

I mainly use Titebond 3 on all my projects haven seen the translucent glue in the stores will have to look for it and give it a try.

Just to add. When I need increased open time for repeat positioning when making model airplanes I prefer 30 minute epoxy. LOL, I've used most of those glues. Guess I'm a collector of sorts.

The pattern is by Jacob Fowler and found in the book "Woodworker's Pattern Book". The wood is Cherry 3/8" x 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" and backed with Baltic Birch plywood 3/8" x 8" x 8" stained black. It was cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. The finish is one dip in diluted Shellac and three coats Minwax spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Comments welcome.

My wife gave me clear chalkboard glue since she is a teacher and I use that to mend mistakes with. Have had an error yet which requires sawdust and would like to keep it that way!

Well hell lets add one more to the collection, I prefer titebond translucent for woodworking and frames. Add saw dust where needed to fill gaps after filling with the translucent glue

You can make the frames by using tape at the corners to hold them together before putting on the clamps. This is a trick used in box making to hold the corners together. Lay the outside edge of one of the frame members on the sticky side of a piece of tape, with some of the tape extending out. Then put the next one against it, then tape to the rest of the frame in the same manner. Leave the last piece of tape sticking out. Put the glue on the joints and kind of roll up the frame so the joints are together. This will hold the frame together while you get the clamps on. Or just put staples in the back or nails into the joint to hold it without clamping. Hope you can make sense of this. Tom

Actually, no I do not do much fretwork

My daughter was here in Arizona for a couple of weeks with her new husband, helping my younger son to ready and move into his new house. While they were here, my daughter told me her husband's birthday is next month and since we will be going up to Oregon for a couple of months, she wondered if I could make a plaque of Chris's Jeep, as it is something he really enjoys. She sent me a photo of his jeep so I made a pattern from it and cut this plaque for her to give to her husband on his birthday. She saw it before she left for home a couple of days ago and said that she really liked it. I was about 1/3 finished cutting it at that time. Here is the results. Dick heppnerguy

Google Pike jewelers blades and you will find numerous sources. I find mine on ebay.