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This 3 plywood held out good. Rattle can spray and clear coat.

Recent rainy weather held me off from assorted outdoor projects so I decided to cut a project I had in my pattern library for quite a while. It's a narrow fret box made from Bubinga 10 x 4.5". Original pattern had straight sides and I decided to add furniture style feet. A little tricky cutting these small parts but I got it done.

Hello friends, I hope you are well. I show you a box I made. Thank you in advance for watching and for your comments.

Try loosening the bolts to the stand and let the legs settle in the spot you plan to park it at.. Assuming it's a factory stand or metal bolted together stand similar to the factory style.. My EX-21 and Hawk saws sometimes will get bumped and moved slightly because the shop radio is on a shelf behind the saw.. and it can be a tight fit to get to the power switch on the radio.. If the saw gets bumped and move ever so slightly it'll pick up some vibration.. I sort of kick out the legs to somewhat get it to it's resting spot.. Anytime I move a saw in the shop I either have to bump it around to find it's sweet spot where the legs set firmly on the floor or loosen the stand to get it perfect again.. I have a concrete floor that is very smooth and level unless you get to the very edge.. next to the wall.. and that is where all my saws sit.. back legs get in the edge of the floor.. Kids got me a Blue Tooth speaker for fathers day.. now I don't need to get back to the wall and shelf to access the radio that barely works.. I can change the volume etc from my phone to this little speaker they got me. Little tiny thing with some big stereo system sound.. They also got me some blue tooth headphones.. guess they're telling me they don't want to hear me on YouTube while they're watching TV, LOL

I have shown this before but not in this topic area. I started on it during shut down. Made for my youngest son. Black walnut and white maple.

Steve Goods dawg, Microsoft word God will provide in Walnut and plywood Jimmy.

Don from Brooklyn in Ontario provided me with this pattern. What I love about his patterns is the thin red outline with a light green fill. Makes cutting a real pleasure. The plaque is 14" X 5" X 1/2" oak. #1 PMG with 50/50 BLO. I nearly screwed up the edges on the router. My router is just a 1/4" trim router on a very makeshift table. The vertical adjustment is very crude and it was set too deep causing the router to bog down. I should have made a couple of shallow cuts then a finish cut. Worked out eventually. Still needs a backer and a couple of coats of poly semi gloss to finish.

Here is my third "Home" pattern and project, which one do you like more Home pattern Video of making project

Tiffany was booked, so.... Put this pattern together the other day, after watching the Clint Eastwood movie on TV (yet again). This is one of the best lines in a movie full of memorable quotes ("Dyin' ain't much of a livin', boy." "You gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie?") and one of the iconic poses from the movie posters. Dang thing is huge, there were parts where the distance between blade and corner of piece exceeded the 16" throat of my saw. Makes for some interesting cutting, having to run off into the waste areas and come back from the other direction. 3/8" ply, #1 Pegas MG blades (two of em), stack cut two at once. Next up, trimming the backers to size and seeing if Lowes has enough lumber to build a frame. Once I figure out a way to stain these (I'm thinking about "building" a container out of aluminum foil), these will be a dark color, probably Minwax Provincial or Honey, and the backer will be as light as I can get it. Probably do the frame dark, too. Pattern is linked here:

After returning from the winter on the border, I haven't done much cutting, just a few orders. With this COVID mess all the craft shows I was going to do this spring and summer are shut down...bummer! So I decided it's about time to get started making stock for the winter shows. I've noticed a vibration that wasn't there last winter. I checked over the saw, all the nuts and bolts feel tight. Doesn't look like anything bent. I'm careful transporting it and pack it in it's original box. I checked the table to blade alignment...exactly 90*. When I cut a puzzle the pieces slide through from top or bottom, so I know the alignment is good. I've tried different blades, Pegas #3 & 5 that have been very smooth in the past. Not sure what difference in feel it would make, but I've moved the motor adjustment center...forward...and back. I have the Pegas blade clamps that are normally smooth. I have only one idea/theory. When I set up the winter shop it has a nice wood floor, so I got a ribbed mat large enough to set the saw on to protect the floor. I also bolted the saw to the stand top, and the stand top to the stand. Here at home I had just stacked the three items. So...here at home I have saw bolted to stand top, bolted to stand, sitting on concrete floor. I'm wondering if I need to get a rubber mat to put under the stand, or mount between the saw and the stand top? If so would it make any difference which?

While sitting eating some cherries I thought I wonder if anyone ever carved on small cherry pits.. Google search and yeah they do.. Thought these was kinda neat.. http://www.shamey.com/pit/pit.htm

yes i love steves projects!!! i think theres a cat one too..i made a dragon planter that i got from the winterfield collection a few years ago...one of the feet broke in the move but have made a new one and just have to put it on....then the poor thing needs painting...waiting for spike to get me some green paint a grass green and a lighter color and some red paint too...im almost out of those....see what happends when you take a 2 year break!!! it was orginaly stained and put plastic eyes on it...i make cloth dolls to so i have a whole box full of eyes lol once spike gets me the paint and i get it repainted i'll put it up....once thats finished i plan on making both the dog and cat planters...then all i'll have to do is get some plants to put in them!!! lol

It has also been mentioned here that folks have taken a bag of premix concrete and set it on a shelf under the saw so that it adds that extra 75-100 pounds of weight pushing down. So far, I've not had to go that far. I did put down the rubber matts that H/F sells. I bought 4 pkgs of the 4 piece stuff and did my whole shop. My saws sit on that matting and sort of impress it to the point where they don't move a bit.

NICE IKE

Looking good !...Very nice work Frank !

That is great...what a nice piece of work !

very nice box

fantastic job, that box is beautiful

Very nice looking box.

That’s a gorgeous box. And you executed it beautifully .

Well it was time well spent. Very impressive looking box, well done. Marg

I think it's a Steve Good pattern Melanie. Marg

Great work Frank, well done. Marg

I love fretwork but I don't think I have the patience or endurance to attempt that project. I have to say it appears to be worth the effort as it is gorgeous. Very nice!

Beautiful piece of work. The flower is particularly nice!

Nice work, Frank! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Beautiful looking box, nicely done

Nicely done, looks great

OMG, I'd lose a finger I couldn't 'hold' one with my hands let alone carve them with my eyesight.. Lord, I'm getting old !!

Beautiful box you have crafted. Did you use a pattern from somewhere?

Ray, If you find a house in a development, be aware that HOA's have limitations on storing of RV on your property. Our HOA only allows 3 day visit for visitors. Storage of RV's on site has to be out of sight of neighbors houses and the road. Same applies for boats. I was going to build a detached garage behind my house that was 60' from the back of the house but HOA shot it down because we are not allowed front facing garage doors and that wasn't a option. Study, Study Study.

THANKS about 20 years

Ray, WOW things have changed out there since I owned a mobile home in Merced, worst financial mistake I ever made in my life. Space charge of 13K a year, that is in our local taxes range. I know we have gone way off topic, sorry, but a beat house in my neighborhood is 400K +

From what I have heard, there are some cities in Tennessee that have their own property taxes along with the county tax. So we will be trying to stay away from those cities. My friend just bought a home 15 minutes from Knoxville in the county. 2400 sq ft walkout finished basement, 4bdrm 3 bath, 2 car garage on a large treed lot. $190k. $900/yr property taxes. The house we sold 13 years ago is now taxes at $10k/yr. Our mobile home is at $700/yr. But we are paying $13k/yr in space rent. We bought our mobile home brand new 9.5 years ago for $200k. It is now worth about $300k. Crazy! Nobody makes money on mobile homes unless they are in So Cal a mile from the beach. So with that said, we can buy a nice place in Tennessee, invest the money or pay off the home and save all that money we've been paying in rent. The investment of the house sale money should cover a mortgage pmt. I haven't decided yet whether to do that or pay cash for the home. So, that's what I know at this point. Oh, another thing. We are paying $120/mo to store the RV here in our park. I'm hoping to find a home that has a place for it so there's another $1440/year savings. I can't find the downside other than the weather.

Kevin, you’re like a beaver ... but instead of chewing your sawing. More beautiful work.

Ray, living in NY, I am curious what the average taxes are where you live now in CA and where you plan to go in TN. We have some friends that just had a house built near Asheville NC. Your idea of investigating different areas in your motor home is brilliant! most people go somewhere on vacation for a week or two, fall in love buy house ,move , and then find it is not as great as they thought it was. Good luck in your search. I did live in Merced CA for a few years. I live in an incorporated village so it has its own taxes. My wife and I love being near the water (3/4 mile from the bay and 2 miles by boat to the Ocean) I rented down the street from my current home for 16 years. always wanted the house that we now own. I swore I would never go back to Long Island after 11 years in the AF, I will be here for the duration, everywhere that I lived around the country had some thing special to offer, but this is home. Our combined county and village taxes are less than 1K a month. We could not rent an apartment for that. Just as an eye opener A magnificent house on the bay just south of us has county taxes of 56K a year plus village tax which ads at least another 2K.

Some nice work there

Custom sign. Upcycling discarded cabinet doors. Walnut and maple. walnut oil. 41 x 22 inches.

I agree with Bill. I use Danish Oil as a finish frequently. As it states on the can “hardens in the wood, not on it.” I dip all my fretwork with Danish Oil. I tried spraying with lacquer but didn't have good success. By the time I got the interior edges coated, the top surface had an undesirable thick coating. Several years ago I built 4 large bookcases for a math professor. He didn't want a plastic feel, he said ”I want to feel the wood.” So I finished them with several coats of Dainish Oil and he loved the way it looked and felt. I wasn't sure at the time how well that type finish would hold up because he writes reference books and would be sliding books in and out on those shelves on a daily basis. So when I delivered them I told him to call me if the finish ever needs to be touched up. He has yet to call me so the Danish Oil must be holding up okay. Last week I made two wall mounted shelves for a customer's office. The office had knotty alder wainscoting. I took them to his office before putting the topcoat on because I needed to see how well I was able to match the stain on the wainscoting. He liked the way they looked and wanted me to go ahead and put them on the wall. I said I haven't put the topcoat on yet. He said he didn't want a topcoat. They're his shelves, so my job (and the shelves) were finished.

Not trying to disagree with both of you about Danish oil not being a finish.. as when it comes to wood finishing I'm not educated at all.. I know very little about any of it.. other than I do know that poly is like a type of plastic built up coating..LOL Over the years I've seen many topics about 50/50 BLO and mineral spirits and other oil treatments ( I use the word treatment because you all say they are not a finish ) and in almost all the cases.. everyone says it's not a finish.. I've read discussions over the years where there was arguments about Danish oil specifically because most say it's not a finish.. but there are a handful of folks that say it is.. it has a small amount of poly in it which makes it different than other oils.. and I've seen arguments that it is a finish.. I tell people it is a finish but in a case of situation as the original topic here it's not a wise choice of finish because it doesn't have much poly in the mix therefor it isn't leaving a "top coat" protectant on it.. Some will say it isn't a sealer it's just a oil.. First off maybe we all have a different opinion of the definition of a finish? Maybe some use the word finish loosely? because both of you claim it's not a finish while I claim that it is.. and it also says so on the can.. as well as stating it is a sealer too.. I consider you all to know more than I about finishing wood.. Now if talking car finishes.. I know a bit about that.. since I worked the body shops for years.. other than the real new water based stuff I don't know that.. but anyway.. whats the reasoning you say it isn't a finish.. it says it is on the can.. Maybe it's because there is not a "build up" of finish on the surface? Being a autobody painter for years.. I don't like the spray finishes on fretwork type pieces.. I don't care how good of a sprayer you are.. it's really difficult to get a good even spray on ALL angles of the fret cutouts without loading it up big time on the main surface.. most sprayed fretwork looks great on the surface but to me the fret cutouts look terrible.. sometimes they'll look "OK" but I prefer the natural wood look with Danish oil finish on fretwork because of this.. I do like a nice cleared surface on a piece of furniture like a table etc.. but not for fretwork stuff.. Maybe it's my picky eye for spraying cars all those years that those fret cutouts don't have an even coat on like the rest of the piece has.. Even if I dip in Danish oil and then try to top coat it.. I don't like it.. I can clearly see a difference in the cutouts than the surface and it sticks out to me like a cut off thumb or something , LOL So what's a "good" wood finish / sealer to protect a piece like my clocks I make? that isn't a sprayed finish.. Keep doing the Danish oil as i've been doing for years? I used to use beeswax / mineral oil mix.. but everyone said it's not a finish and will dry out over time.. it sorta made sense to me so I don't use it much at all anymore and went back to using Danish oil..as it's easy and it says finish and seals the wood.. I want to make top quality wood clocks.. that look good for years.. I have my own personal clock that I made back in 2008 that has the mineral oil and beeswax on it.. still looks like it did before.. I have another that I tried re-coating the beeswax on and it did look fresh ( wet looking so to speak ) for a few days but it still looks great otherwise.. we've dusted them with soap and water several times a year and in my opinion I almost feel like the Beeswax mix is a finish because of this.. but what do I know.. I do feel the look is more glowing or whatever with the beeswax mix.. over the Danish oil.. but I also want durability which I've been told would be better with the Danish oil.. so that's what I do now.. Picture of Waco oil to show it says Finish and sealer.. Again, not trying to argue with your statement it's not a finish.. I'm just trying to learn why you all say it.. what don't I know about it.

Thanks for all the responses, guess I will have to get the puzzle back and coat with some poly. I appreciate your sharing of wisdom!

Hey Todd. You say you finished with Watco Danish oil, but that is not a finish. What it does is it brings out the natural beauty of the wood, bit that is not a finish. You need to apply a topcoat. The topcoat will protect and seal the wood. By using a water based stain you did not need to use the Danish oil. I use a rattle can semi gloss lacquer. Poly will work as well as Shellac.

I made the infinity heart, I used poplar and stained black walnut.

It’s sad when someone doesn’t agree with you, you have to give them a derogatory name. This is supposed to be a friendly place. I’m sure you have a name for me.

I carved a walnut shell once. Made a little owl on it, glued a pin to the back and gave it to my wife. She promptly lost it. Tom