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Finished these Botas patterns. Stack cut 1/8 ply. All three sold. Backing on two as requested, with colours requested. Third one was trimed to fit the 8x10 frame. Colour backing was my choice. Frame purchased from Ikea.

I enjoyed cutting this one, going to do another one and have them back to back

The Elder is finished. The pattern by Jim Blume. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 12" square and backed with black mat board. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. The finish is one coat spray Shellac and one coat spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Of course framed at ArtCrafters.

Size of box is 9 x 5 and 3” high. Made out of Walnut and Alowood. Handle cut and polished from a deer antler. Box finished with satin polyurethane.

This took a bit of time, pattern from Charles Hand, I used #1 spirals

While sitting eating some cherries I thought I wonder if anyone ever carved on small cherry pits.. Google search and yeah they do.. Thought these was kinda neat.. http://www.shamey.com/pit/pit.htm

Dan, can you point to where I called somebody a name? I'm curious as to what you are referring. If "egotist" is derogatory name, I am amazed. It's a description at best. I have been around HOA's in the past and have come to know that who run them and almost every case that person was just what I said. They get a case of big head and just fall in love with telling others how to live. If that offends you, I'm sorry. But sometimes the truth hurts. It was not my intent to rile you.

Pattern by Fish. Size 8 x 10, ⅛” BB ply.

Hello friends, I hope you are well. I show you a box I made. Thank you in advance for watching and for your comments.

Here is my third "Home" pattern and project, which one do you like more Home pattern Video of making project

This 3 plywood held out good. Rattle can spray and clear coat.

I tried the foam things from Harbor Freight on my saw and it made more vibration than I had.. Years ago I had a Dremel model 1800 scroll saw and it vibrated bad.. even mounted to the stand.. I put a piece of the carpet foam between the saw and the stand.. then run the saw through the speeds as i tighten the bolts to the stand.. and got it running pretty smooth.. If I cranked the bolts tight it was bad.. and too loose it was bad.. so I just kept running at speeds while tightening the bolts and found the sweet spot.. Took quite some time to do but was a really smooth saw afterwards.. That was before I had my new shop with a nicely laid concrete floor..

Stained up and ready to assemble. Minwax Honey, I think the backer is Minwax Oak or Ipswitch Pine. One of the backers I experimented with scorching.

Recent rainy weather held me off from assorted outdoor projects so I decided to cut a project I had in my pattern library for quite a while. It's a narrow fret box made from Bubinga 10 x 4.5". Original pattern had straight sides and I decided to add furniture style feet. A little tricky cutting these small parts but I got it done.

I've always loved the story of Christ carrying the storyteller.

Steve Goods dawg, Microsoft word God will provide in Walnut and plywood Jimmy.

Im from Perth, Western Australia, Ive been scolling for about 20 years, but never really joined any forums, I have a 21 inch and a 30 inch carbotec, upgraded from my old Delta which is still going.I mainly use FD blades, reverse and spirals, I love making clocks mainly, but will do anything

Tiffany was booked, so.... Put this pattern together the other day, after watching the Clint Eastwood movie on TV (yet again). This is one of the best lines in a movie full of memorable quotes ("Dyin' ain't much of a livin', boy." "You gonna pull those pistols or whistle Dixie?") and one of the iconic poses from the movie posters. Dang thing is huge, there were parts where the distance between blade and corner of piece exceeded the 16" throat of my saw. Makes for some interesting cutting, having to run off into the waste areas and come back from the other direction. 3/8" ply, #1 Pegas MG blades (two of em), stack cut two at once. Next up, trimming the backers to size and seeing if Lowes has enough lumber to build a frame. Once I figure out a way to stain these (I'm thinking about "building" a container out of aluminum foil), these will be a dark color, probably Minwax Provincial or Honey, and the backer will be as light as I can get it. Probably do the frame dark, too. Pattern is linked here:

Save the large fallouts and fragile area fallouts and tape them back in place

And...it’s fixed and wonderful!

Lovely craftsmanship!

Ver nice cutting.

It has also been mentioned here that folks have taken a bag of premix concrete and set it on a shelf under the saw so that it adds that extra 75-100 pounds of weight pushing down. So far, I've not had to go that far. I did put down the rubber matts that H/F sells. I bought 4 pkgs of the 4 piece stuff and did my whole shop. My saws sit on that matting and sort of impress it to the point where they don't move a bit.

beautiful!!! and i love the way you framed it!!!

totaly fantastic!!! wow dosnt do it justice you did such a great job on that!!!

Very beautiful work.

They are different, I like them. Well done Kevin. Marg

I think it's a Steve Good pattern Melanie. Marg

That's a classy looking box Ron, well done

Another beautiful piece.

Beautiful !!

Such beautiful work love the hole project.

That’s a nice looking box Ron!

Very impressive. Lovely finish too. Terry is just starting to learn how to make bandsaw boxes, but just using pine until he feels more confident. Marg

Impressed how tight the drawer is after all the sanding you had to do. Your pieces probably matched up better than mine do. Nice job!

I started wood working in the late 70s....right after my ex and I got married....I have a picture of a veery young me learning how to use a dermal...we lived in an apartment at that and I think that was the only tool we had!! lol I think I put up a line cutting I did with a jack knife but not sure...in 1977-78 I made a totom pole with just a little ax and yup my jack knife lol I know it was done then because I was pg with my son when I started it and I finished it just after he was born. lol then I have 2 wood carvings I did in 79 (my son was still just a baby no more then one IF he was that old. lol) one of them is an indian head and the other is a persons fist with a hole in it so It can hold a pencle. lol I did those in my early 20s. lol I also have a black wooden rocking chair that we got at an action that I carved the design that was on the back of the chair... I still have that old rocking chair...lol and yes that to was done with my jack knife. lol I don't know what finally happened to it...don't remember if it finally broke or just got lost in one of our various moves. lol so yes although im just now starting to try out the hard stuff I have been doing wood work for a very long time.... now for the pattern of the family tree... while the power and phone were out it gave me a chance to look through a bunch of my patterns and I did find one in my plastic canvas patterns …. not sure if I have any others in my vast laibary of patterns of all kinds and I did scan it into my computer... I also found a sun picture frame in the same book that holds several pictures that I will put up....the problem im going to have is making the patterns large enough to do in wood. for those of you who don't know anything about plastic canvas the pattern is seldom if ever printed full size because you stitch the pattern on pieces of plastic canvas which is like a thin plastic with rows and colloms of holes in it that you stich or kind of sew into the holes to make the picture.... I also need it to have more openings for pictures in it so I can fit all my kids and spouces ( one picture hole for them there spouse and child ) can then one for my 2 brothers and one sister...one for mom and dad and one for me and spike...so that's like 8 pictures id like to put into it.... then like I said I loaded up the star picture frame that has several holes in it that I want to make to put pics of my pets in....we have to take both of the dogs to the vet for checkups today so I will put the pictures up in the can you make this pattern for me froum either after we get back or hopefuly tomarrow… lets see i'll need at least 5 holes in the star to get my most recent animal children pics in... iv had more then 5 animals in my life time of course but these 5 are spical to me for various reasons... but like I said ill put the pictures up... now sure weather to put up the picture of the finished work that's in the mag or just the pattern.... or maybe both lol we'll see I guess lol i'll put one or the other up soon and if you need the other you can let me know lol thanks for being so paticent while I looked for the pattern lol between woodworking sewing crocheting, knitting machine knitting and plastic notto mention emboridy and machine emboridy and the sand blasting and glass ingraving patterns I v been collection for over what 35-40 years it can take me awhile to find a spicifc pattern which is why I just grab a stack of patterns when im looking to make something new and then just grabe and trace out one or two to put on wood or gather the proper materals for what ever stricks my fancy while im looking through the patterns lol if that makes any sense. lol I hope everybody has had a good few days and no one had to much damage if they were in the path of the storm lol

Berta I texted you something to try.

I am not a big spiral fan though I do use them when I need to. I know I will take some heat for this but in my opinion they tear more then they cut and because of that they are tough on fragile areas. Also in my opinion cutting a single piece of 1/4" plywood is a recipe for trouble. Add a piece of 1/8" or another piece 1/4" plywood as a backer to reduce tear out. Using flat blades like a Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse I would use a #1 or 2/0. Pegas MG will also work in the same sizes but since they are more aggressive you have to be more careful and reduce speed. Good Luck and keep us posted.

I agree with Dan.. When I first got my EX-21 I was surprised how much vibration it had just sitting it on a bench.. then I had mounted it to a cheap HF stand that I had another tool mounted on at one time but sold the tool and kept the stand.. stand footprint was too small so I bolted a piece of plywood on it.. It had more vibration mounted to that stand than it did just setting on a bench.. Finally I picked up a actual EX-21 stand and what a difference... All that said.. I think a nice heavy built wood stand would work pretty well provided you mount the saw in the center of it to distribute the weight to the stand and legs evenly..

Olsen blades are not oil treated. Have never had a slipping problem with them.

It sounds like blade slippage under tension. Do what Len said but take out the set screw also to clean the surface of the set screw. When reinserting the set screw use the blue loc tite and get the surface of the set screw flush with the inside surface of the clamp - do this upper and lower. I cannot speak to all blades but I know FD blades come with a little film on them which ultimately can cause this slippage under tension so for all blades, not just FD, I dip the ends in denatured alcohol whenever I open a dozen, wipe the ends, and then before using the blade scuff the ends with 220 grit sandpaper.

I top feed my blades and on my EX 16 I was starting to have trouble with blades popping out of the lower clamp and developing a sharp bend at the end of the blade - took me a little while to figure out the problem was me - over time I had developed the habit of purshing the lower part of the blade too far into the clamping frame - meaning I was levering the bottom of the blade away from the actual clamp to the point where the blade was not square and only partially held. The result was that the blade would pop out under pressure - or slip. Once I started looking at what I was doing it was easy to see the issue and correct how I was positioning the blade for clamping.

Thanks! I will try that, too!

Monti, it seems as if you have a tension issue, there is a few things you can do to try to solve them. Remove the upper and lower clamp screws, and check out the little pivot pins that are in the end of them. Make sure the pins can move, and sand the end of the pins to scuff them up. Doing this should make the clamps hold on to the blade better, so it can't slip in the clamp. Another thing that should help solve your issue, is to apply pressure to the upper arm when installing the blade. What I do when I install a blade, I always attach the lower end of the blade in the clamp first. I make sure that there is enough blade under the clamp screw, then for the top clamp, I always apply downward pressure to the upper arm while tightening the clamp screw. Not a lot of pressure is needed, but, if done right you'll never have to adjust the tension screw again. I've had my EX21 for 5-6 years now, and I only ever needed to touch the back tension knob for spiral blades. Len

Don't know how old your saw is but mine after 5 years of use the bearings that holds the bottom clamp wore out. This let the arm "jerk) the blade loose.

so many wonderful tips - thanks guys - I will go to work on it!

you might try anti sieze on the blade tightening screws. A tube is about $5 and will last you 15 years.

Now that I have had enough coffee I thought of one other thing I had to do. You need a 3mm allen wrench and maybe blue locktite. Blue, not red or green, red and green are semi-permanent and permanent respectively and require a lot of torque and sometimes a torch to break them loose. Any auto parts store will have it, and maybe home depot. on the left side of each blade holder, opposite the wing knob you tighten on the blade, is a set screw. Get down below the table with a good penlight and check to see that the set screw does, does protrude slightly into the slot where the blade goes. If it does not use the allen to adjust the set screw. adjust both top and bottom the same If the set screw turns really easily, back it out, put a drop or two of blue loctite on the threads and then turn it back in to where it should be and go have lunch to give it time to set up.

I just got a used ex-21 and had the same problem, I found the cause on another site. Insure the upper arm is parallel to the table top. Use the back tension knob to adjust it When you install the blade, install the top of the blade first and tighten the wing knob. Insure the upper arm is all the way down, and the blade in in the slot in the bottom blade holder and tighten Then flip the tension lever and use the back tension adjust if necessary. Once the back tension knob is adjusted it should not have to be adjusted again. the bottom of the blade can extend below the blade holder, but it can NOT extend above the top one. edited cause I have not had enough coffee yet, and again for the same reason, sigh