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I've always loved the story of Christ carrying the storyteller.

Pattern by Fish. Size 8 x 10, ⅛” BB ply.

Tony has had a good look and the cast iron part is worn too, quite a bit he says. He is going to get new bushings for it though and he will tinker with it and if he can get it anywhere near usable he's going to have it for his workshop. Me ?? I just bought a new one and it should be here tomorrow

I enjoyed cutting this one, going to do another one and have them back to back

The Elder is finished. The pattern by Jim Blume. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 12" square and backed with black mat board. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. The finish is one coat spray Shellac and one coat spray Lacquer Clear Satin. Of course framed at ArtCrafters.

Brenda, As your machine is a Hegner clone would not a Hegner bush fit? They have one on their site for less than £10. https://www.hegner.co.uk/spare-part-finder?machine=HM2s&version=1&query=8&search.x=8&search.y=13&search_start=true Might be worth a try for less than a tenner.

Few BBQ Scrapers to get rid of the wire scrapers.

The bushing is what's worn.. that is soft brass and will wear many times faster than the spot on the cast iron part.. the paint is about all that looks worn there.. IMO.. but the bushing is clearly worn.. I mean.. if you want a new saw and have the money for it.. but if it were me.. I'd just replace the bushing.. Appears to have not ever seen any oil? My Hawk is made similar and it requires a drop or two of light oil every 25 ish hours of run time.. on those areas where the arms are connected..I think this is probably the case with the Hegner too? I will say though.. if you go the route of a new bushing.. Buy all of them and just rebuild the saw.. if it hasn't been oiled.. you might have the other one worn too..

Have decided to buy the same saw again but brand new. £520. The reason being, I like this saw, it cuts beautifully, it's cast iron and solid and when new comes with a 3yr guarantee. As they say at weddings, if anyone has reason for this not to go ahead speak now or forever hold your peace.

All of my major events may be cancelled, but my local market is up and running and this past Saturday I received 7 custom orders. Here are 5 of them... Engraved names starting to get some traction...

Couple of beginner questions. When cutting a vein in a project do you change blade size? Second and probably more important, when you end a vein cut how do you extricate the blade? Back it out or stop and remove the blade? Thanks for your time. Steve

i dont change blades for vein cuts. what i do do,though, is drill the entrance hole along the vein instead of at the end. i feather the edges of the vein at the entrance hole to make it disappear. widens the vein a bit there but i think its looks better than seeing a small hole at the end of a vein.

Well, don't feel bad because I'm pretty sure most scroll sawers either don't oil or forget too.. myself included.. that's why I keep all the extra parts.. and some saws don't really have a maintenance guideline to follow.. Who wants to take time to oil the saw when we have projects to make.. Now.. I'd check with the manual to see if it requires any oil... some of those type brass bushings have a lubricant made right in to the brass when they are made.. This could be the case... and when they wear you just replace.. The oil is a sawdust bed so I would go with whatever the manual suggest.. That soft brass is designed to wear out instead of the cast iron.. that's why they make those out of that soft material.. It's cheaper and easier to replace the bushing than the whole saw.. ( this is one difference between a cheap saw and a quality made saw... cheap ones are just throw away... though some of us take them apart and repair them anyway )..

I agree with Don, Buy extras.. LOL I do this because I rely on my saw to make money... Yesterday I was cutting with my oldest Hawk 1993 220VS and a bearing started squealing right near the end of my work day so I stopped cutting and took it apart.. pressed in the new bearings and put it back together.. No wait time for bearings and parts to come in the mail.. They are just a standard bearing in my Hawk and can be picked up at any hardware type store.. I need to get a couple more since the last time this happen I bought extras but now I'm out on that size bearing.. I gotta say it's nice to have the parts on hand.. I buy extras and put in a ziplock bag and tape the bag to the stand of the saw so i know where to find them.. Funny though, I have a complete set of bearings etc for a DeWalt saw.. but I sold that saw about 2 years ago, LOL. I kept the bearings thinking they'd work in my Excalibur.. which most will but the sleeves are different and I can't find a source for just the sleeves yet.. I have about $250 in DeWalt parts..

terrific job

I would buy twice what is needed and that should last a very long time. It would be a lot cheaper too.

I will speak now. Try Bearing King first.

Hi Brenda, If you have an accurate size for the bushing you need you can contact Bearing King Ltd in Rotherham. I have 2 numbers here 01709 527269 which I think is the correct number and I have 01709 916714 and I am not sure where I picked that up. I have been out to the shed and had a look at my Aldi machine and the bearings are Oilite Bushes and measure 15mm od x 10mm bore and I don't know the length but Bearing King have this size of bush at 16mm long ie 16 x 15 x 10mm and it is priced at 93p + VAT = £1.12p EACH Hope this helps. take care Don W Edit They have flanged bearings as well and Tony knows will know what to order from them.

As has been suggested Hegner parts will fit, I know this because that is all I use on my Hegner clone... Cheers Merlin...

If you have a machine shop near you check with them. If the saw has a brass bushing they can make and replace it for you. They can probably get you a bearing if that is what the saw has and you will need to have it pressed in and out anyway.

Beautiful work Kris. Marg

Yes, I much prefer the dark backgrounds. The white was a request - and the customer is always right!

I usually keep the blade running an back out. With it running it won’t hang up in the cut. If I want a wider vein what I do is cut the vein with a normal blade then change out the blade for a spiral blade. It will follow the previous cut an the spiral blade will make a wider vein.

GREAT WORK!

oh i love that !!! where did you get the pattern if i can ask. id love to make a couple of those for me and my kids

As Kevin suggested, if you can get the measurements of the bushing from Axminster, you should be able to buy a bushing most anywhere. If need be, we here in the U.S. could round one up and send it to you. Do you have anybody who can do the pressing out/in? Have you contacted Wolfgang at Advanced Machinery to see if he can help? Have no fear, we'll all come together and get you back in business.

Very beautifully done Kris.

Love that movie and very nice work!

I don't know what you have in the UK for parts stores etc.. but if it was me.. I'd take the arm off the saw and take it to a parts store ( preferably a bearing store but many tractor parts stores etc.. carry bearings / bushings / sleeves etc... maybe even a auto parts store.. I highly doubt the bushing is a specialty size etc.. most equipment manufactures just buy the bearings etc.. If you have a dial caliper you could measure the inside diameter and the outside diameter then the width / length etc.. and you should be able to find a bearing that you need.. A specialty bearing shop should be able to determine what kind and size of bearing you need.. Odds are the bearing store or a tractor / auto parts store will have it cheaper than through the dealer.. since dealers just buy them anyway.. then mark them up so they make a small profit..

Beautiful cut Ron! Did you use flat blades or spirals? The cuts are very clean!

Awesome fine work Bernd.

Really different. Beautiful work Barb.

Save the large fallouts and fragile area fallouts and tape them back in place

Yeah just up the road

fantastic job, they're all beautiful

Nice work!

Very nice job! I like the dark blue backer.

Interesting pattern, quite effective. Nice work on the cuttings and congratulations on the sales

Awesome. I love the blue backings. Marg

Very nice! What type of finish?

Very nice

that is beautiful!!! you did a great job on all of them!!!

I couldn't carve that good on a 4 x 4 !!

Well, I'd rather *eat* BBQ than scroll it, but every good BBQ needs a couple of things: dragon coasters, paper towels, a table, and a hammock to relax in during/afterwards. And for me....well...there's always books if I'm not scrollin'. Flynn seems to make it into a lot of photos. He's Dane/Bloodhound mix. As for grub...well, I'm a burger-n-brats kind of guy, leaning more towards the brats side of the grill. Found an amazing recipe for bacon-wrapped brats....basically, you cook the brats, then slice em open like a hot dog bun (keep the ends closed), jam them full of spicy mustard and shredded cheddar cheese, then use the universal kitchen duct tape (ie, bacon) to wrap them and keep them closed. Throw back in the oven for an amount of temp and time I couldn't begin to tell you off the top of my head (I've burned cold cereal, so I'm generally only allowed in the kitchen during cleanup). Pure frikkin bliss. (recipes vary, but this'll give you an idea) https://www.stockpilingmoms.com/bacon-wrapped-cheese-stuffed-brats/

For portrait style fretwork, I recommend spiral blades. The size depends on the detail of the pattern. I typically use Flying Dutchman New Spirals in either a 2/0 or 3/0 size. Just beware the 3/0 spiral blades are pretty fragile and more prone to breaking than larger blades, but they are great for really fine detail. If you aren't accustomed to using spiral blades, I recommend that you get some practice in on something simple to get the hang of them. When planning the cuts on a portrait, I study the pattern and look for areas with the greatest risk of breakage during the cut. You want to cut these areas while there is still as much supporting wood surrounding it as possible. If you wait and cut those areas later, after much of the supporting wood has been removed, you risk breaking it off during the cut. After cutting those areas, I generally work outward from the center, but the direction is less important than ensuring you maintain as much supporting wood around most fragile parts of the cut as possible.

I have an Axminster Trade Series AWFS 18 and the bushing has gone west. I contacted Axminster who said they didn't have any in stock but they had a replacement arm. So in desperation I bought one. However, when it arrived today it was just that !!! A replacement arm. No bushing, no bolt, nothing to affix it to my saw. I was fuming !! They have now emailed me with a postage label saying 'sorry' and will refund me if I send it back or they can order the bushing etc from their suppliers but it will be at least 20 weeks before they will get it . 5 bloody months ( excuse my language)... How am I suppose to last 5 months without my saw !!! I know that this saw is now made under another 'Axminster' name, in China I think, but I cannot for love nor money remember where I saw this information. Does anyone know what I can do next or how I find out if anyone does 'spare parts' for this machine ? Any help at all would be gratefully recieved as all I can get out of Axminster is a part number - ELT003344 Here's a picture of the bit I'm talking about circled in green.

Oooh Heck,, I've never put oil anywhere

Ok,, Tony has taken it apart and cleaned it up and there is a 'flang' that is an integral part of the upper arm and a corresponding one on the saw which isn't shown on any parts diagram I can find This 'flange' is unevenly worn on both sides. When a little sideways pressure is put on the upper arm the saw works perfectly so it seems that it has worn slightly and unevenly. Tony, being an engineer, says that it is a design fault. The tensioning spring is on the side of the upper arm and over the years that slight 'pull' on the outside of the arm has created the uneven wear on the flanges. He's going to see if he can flatten the surfaces of both flange to make them run freely together. However, it would appear that my saw is way older than I was told it was when I bought it. It was second hand. The 'upside' of all this, I will have to buy a new saw !!! So now I just have to decide which one