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My wife really likes ancient Egyptian art so I thought I'd make her an Egyptian artifact. Yeah, I know, sounds kind of crazy, but it was fun doing it as it's for her birthday. This is made of two layers of plywood and a mixture of white sand and sawdust glued to the scroll cut plywood. My wife likes it, so, so do I. I hope you do too.

Finished this puzzle today, never thought I would finish it, they say no glue needed but I found out different, some pieces fell out on me and I would have to glue them in, as they were very delicate, and having big fingers that didn't help either, and you need plenty of patience.

love CANADA it is 10letters heart puzzle I like Heart frame got a strong massages I made 2 country logos (CANADA &AMERICA) and doing my country "LOVE KOREA" I made bigger C and one side longger A short video clip how to puzzle canada love small video.mp4

I dont know why, but many scrollers were asking me to make moose pattern, is it popular animal at your country? Moose shadow box pattern Video of making (YouTube)

I was really feeling frustrated by my wooden gear clock so I thought I try one of these amplifiers. There are hundreds of examples on Youtube. This looked straight ahead so I gave it a try. I'm not sure what the wood is, except for the maple highlight. I went through my wood recently and found these items which I could neither identify nor remember where they came from. The finish is just Watco Danish Oil (natural) although the sound channel has a couple of coats of shellac. My hearing is very bad but to me there a marked improved when playing music through it.

Well, I've had my new saw now for two weeks and I've used it every day almost. What I'm quite childishly happy with is that the 'insert' is still like new !!! That means that all the lessons about 'offering the wood to the blade' - 'let the blade cut the wood' - 'don't push' - 'relax and breathe', that all you good people have given me since I joined almost 2yrs ago must have actually sunk in !!! Just wanted to say a Huge Thank You to all of you.

I framed Charlie Daniels today. I picked up a 11" x 14" frame at Wally World the other day and was just going to cut the window out to fit with an X-Acto knife. I've been wanting to start building my own frames for my art and other stuff...so I went to Hobby Lobby and bought a Logan mat cutter, a rig to insert V nails in frame corners, and a rig to inert points and brad nails to hold it all in the frame. It was fairly easy to use the mat cutter, and it made nice 45* beveled cuts to enlarge the window. I used black card stock for a backer to keep the thickness down. I could get use to doing this all the time. Those of you that frame your art: 1 Do you buy frames. New or garage sale finds? 2 Do you make your own frames? Details on wood thickness, rabbit depth, any other helpful tips? 3 Do you use glass or plexi-glass? 4 I cut the mat to cover 1/16th of the piece on all 4 sides...is that enough or is it better to have 1/8th or 1/4 "overhang"? 5 What do you use to "fill in" from the mat to the back cover? Normally 1/8th or 1/4 thick wood. Lots of questions...sorry. This is just another facet of the obsession/hobby that I need to learn to evolve.

it is second country-heart I made beechwood, size140*164mm it is puzzle, heart and letters I made big "A" if you like this pattern, it is in my etsy shop https://www.etsy.com/shop/Namunolie 15SECOND AMERICA.mp4

Horses are an H. Botas pattern that was posted on his Facebook page. Backer is, of course, reclaimed pallet wood (sawzaw with a metal-cutting blade, then a Phillips screwdriver and hammer to pop the nail heads out, sand the whole thing with 80-grit to clean off the grunge and...stuff, then a couple of pieces across the back to hold them together). Backer is stained Minwax Honey, horses are Weathered Oak. I did put a second coat on the middle slat of the left-hand backer, it seemed kinda light to me, and the horse kinda disappears into it. After the second coat, it looks MUCH better, greater contrast. The planes...well, I'm a military history geek, so when I saw this pattern pop up in one of Steve Good's newsletters, I had to do it. Stains (all Minwax) are "Honey", "cherry red", "grey", and "classic navy". Back piece has a light coat of rattlecan matte white.

The speed potentiometer seems to be an issue with several brands of scroll saws. You just have to hit the sweet spot.

MET motors and controllers out of mankato minn. is who made the motor and speed controller. could do an internet search and see if anyone else has and info to share. but i am with kevin on this one.clean the dust out and or change the pot out and see if that solves the problem. doug

So first thing I'd try is ruling out the foot switch.. though by the sounds of it it's the VS controller.. I'm assuming by the serial number that it's a newer saw than my 1998 226VS Ultra as my serial number is 10290.. I have not had any of these issues with my 226 but when I first got my old 220VS it would do the surge type thing IF messing with the dial while running the saw.. but not otherwise.. I took the thing apart and blew it out with the air compressor and it's not had any issues since then.. Thankfully since that is a problem those old saws with the Fasco (SP) motor had before the motor or controller box went out.. Hawks fix for those is a new motor and controller assembly.. On my 226 Ultra.. I did replace the Pot meter ( VS controller ).. not because it was bad... but because I broke it trying to take the knob off it to work on something else.. I now know the knob is not just pressed on... it has a very small screw that holds it on.. Be aware of that if you try taking it apart to blow it out or something.. LOL The fix from Hawk for this was also a new motor and controller assembly at $350.. I found out I could just buy a new pot meter and could solder the new one in place.. the meter was only about $6 free shipping from eBay.. If you find it's not the foot switch and find it's this part.. and can solder.. it's a cheap easy fix.. If you solder the leads on backwards it just makes the switch work backwards... (ie what used to be high saw speed is now slow, LOL Don't ask how I know that but I did correct it..) Hopefully it's nothing to do with the motor itself.. I suspect it to be the pot meter. however I'm no electronic expert so I don't know.. If you cannot solder.. I'm sure there is some shop somewhere near you that would be able to make the repair.. EDIT TO ADD If you need to replace the pot meter.. I did a little digging to find the listing to the one I purchased.. maybe this will help you or someone along the way.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-1k-ohm-Linear-Taper-Log-Pot-B1K-Solder-Lugs-Split-Shaft-Potentiometer-EW/111400183535?hash=item19eff7e6ef:g:hh0AAOxyXWdQ9FfY

Current Issue of Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts Thought I'd let everyone know that the new issue of "Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts" is now (or will be soon) available on the newsstand. Lots of nice projects in it and they have also included one of mine on making wizard wands on the scroll saw, using the compound cutting technique. I came up with the idea after working on compound cut of different varieties, and was wondering if I could cut something nice and long. What better than a Wizard's Wand (can also be used as a pointer or conductor's baton). Well you can check out the article in the Fall issue #80 if you like. I'm also offering a special eBook of 16 wand patterns, in case you get the wand cutting bug. It is available for $3.50 in my Etsy store. https://www.etsy.com/listing/822012980/magic-wand-compound-cut-scroll-saw?ref=shop_home_active_1

Done as a favour for a friend.

Great idea. Beautiful wood. Well done.

gord, while you are at it order the air hose upgrade kit for $20. it replaces the clear hose and gives you the adjustable nozzle. it will get rid of the dust alot better. doug

Must admit Ray, I thought they were all replaceable no matter which saw. Just goes to show how much I know.

First, I have to say I really appreciate all the comments and suggestions. A little over whelmed , didn't expect the effort it takes to respond. That considered I was put in a position to provide a worthy response. Delayed due to real world unexpected situations and my wife's surprise attacks with to do list. Rockytime: I'm in Fort Langley 20 miles from Abbotsford, definitely milder the Alberta.(was there in Airforce) KMMcrafts: WOW! Very thorough explanation and pictures. Looks like you have two saws. One has RED blade holder t-screw and the other is BLACK T-screw. I was using a 40 year old dremel which did ok, blades not easy to source. Hawk showed up on craigslist 40+ miles away took a look , tried seemed to work ok. Of course I didn't know what to look for having never seen a more up to date unit. On to my saw. I took the upper and lower arm pivot bolts out and checked the GBC 4450-00 thrust bearings. A little rough , so inserted some 10-30 oil and STP (thick oil) , improved smoothness a fair amount., cleaned and steel wool bolt add STP oil. Removed upper pitman arm bolt, my replacement bearings are still smooth as silk. 90VDC motor seems smooth , no slop. Motor mount bolts were not tight , snug not loose. Blade movement: front to rear on lower holder in rear position about 1.38mm. holder in front position: 2.2mm. Blade side to side no gap. Blade to table exactly 90 degrees. Rear tension assy with V block , seems OK, not sure, nothing obvious to me, cleaned phenolic washer. Now to the upper blade holder and blade holder bracket assy. No adjustment on bottom of holder bracket assy for tension lever. Forgot to mention lower blade holder is rectangular(see pic) Pictures: black line to worn sloppy holes . Bracket slop = 1.7mm , blade holder slop= .75mm best I can measure. Hope this is understandable . It sounds different now with less vibration. Previous owner had it mounted on top of a DIY cabinet with a front door. This may be creating some vibration or material oscillation harmonics depending on saw RPM, Legs came with it , probably a good next step will be install legs. Also a next step will be to order BUshton Upper Blade Holder Bracket Conversion Kit Hope all this gets posted , probably couldn't repeat all this the same. Wife got a 10yd load of PLAY GROUND CEDAR CHIPS so have to go play with that now. Never ends Cheers, Stay safe and healthy Gord

Yes, you did get a good deal! Especially since one cne buy a brand new Delta for $350 at Home Depot. I have one of those Delta's and almost identical to the DeWalt BUT with a 5 year warranty! Why did you sell? What are you using now? bb

Well good news. I sold my DeWalt 788 for $350. I was asking $400 but the guy that's buying it is coming over 100 miles away so I told him he could have it for $350. He got a good deal with the stand and all.

Both look great. That fretwork on the horses is amazing!

Nice smooth cuts, looks great!

There are various plastics that are called acrylics. They do cut differently. Lexan is one type that is super tough and hard to break. I personally like using FD polar blades for plastics. I would not use a crown tooth or any reverse tooth blade. I also usually put a crap plywood backer under it. And speed is critical. The friction of the blade generates heat which will weld the plastic back together. slow down feed and speed as the others have said.

very nice, great design

Well done arraignment and composition. Love the colors of the air planes. The horse presentation is great!

I'm with Marg about the last horse. It's just my style. Looks like you'll do quite well at you showing. Good luck!

Where do you sell your patterns?

They all look great, the horse in the oval frame would be my favourite. I hope the sales go well

Lovely project, eagles are a favourite of mine

Looks amazing

Very nice, looks great

never had bacon ice cream Ray, is that a californa thing, RJ

Lovely work on those

Very clever with your designs

Awesome, thanks for the info! I'll start with the foot pedal and hopefully that fixes it

Pecan wood smoked bacon is great when you can find it.

Did you try it without the foot pedal? Maybe the foot pedal is going bad. Just a thought.

I have had my 226vs for 24 years. Never had that problem. Could be the variable speed controller is going bad. You could try calling Bushton and see what they say. They have been answering my emails within a day.

I like them well. I will be "borrowing" the idea too. Thanks, I bet they will sell too.

I would suggest the first step is to lube the bearings on t. I know that probably wont fix your problem, but will prevent further problems. You would also be able to see if there is a short in the wiring due to dust. Just a thought.

Sure,, it is an Alex Fox design you can find here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/753519229/c90-merry-christmas-scroll-saw-pattern?ga_search_query=Christmas&ref=shop_items_search_2

Thank you for the welcome! I've set the acrylic project aside. I enjoy wood so I'll stay with wood projects for now. I got a variety of blades in the mail recently. Today I plan to order some wood online. Wood from my local woodcraft seems pricey for a newbie like me so I'll try using a link from a resource listed on SSV. -Marg, a steno machine is like a specialized typewriter. Court reporters use one to write in shorthand every single word being said during court proceedings. Sitting for hours on end and holding my hands, arms in position writing on the steno ended up too much for this body. I'm simply so surprised at the timing. The very day I sold my steno I picked up a book of puzzle scroll saw patterns and couldn't resist checking the activity out. I tried using my father-in-laws very old pin-end Craftsman once. Within days I took the cash I got from the sale of the steno and bought a Delta. I'm learning so much just every single day, AND the hands/arms don't hurt!

I love hearing stories of days gone by. You’ve done a good job on this.

Interesting indeed. Great Work. Marg

nice job

That one is been on my list to make.. I seen a laser cut design on etsy back around March.. and I've been wanting to make a pattern to cut them.. I think they'll be a hit as ornaments as a gag gift but also to remember the pandemic of 2020.. Cutting the letters small enough to fit into an ornament has been my issue with trying to design a pattern.. I like to give my ornaments out in a gift box and the box size is around 5 x 3-3/4 so the ornament with that much text is quite small letters to cut.. I may have to make the roll and change up the wording.. Maybe I just need to set up my laser, LOL.. rather keep scroll stuff on my main website as its predominantly hand made.. am doing another site for CNC / Laser stuff..

I learnt to make mini bird houses. Have always loved them but my previous attempts at any 3D work always ended in near tears. However my first bird house was perfect so now I am hooked. Marg

Frank, you can comment on the work that went into making it even though you may not agree with or care about the message. There may be things posted here that I don't agree with the message or content, but if I like the work and craftsmanship I will comment on that, or just move on. No requirement to comment on everything... I have never been on any forum that I totally agreed with everything posted,,, but that is life. I hope you don't take offense to what I am trying to say here,,, not my intent. If someone is trying to preach or whatever about religion, than I understand your point, this is not the forum for that and I would move on also.... I am not against religions, fact I am a believer, but this is not the place to discuss beliefs,,,, well beliefs not related to woodwork/scrolling anyway.

Thanks for the reminder Travis!

Hi everyone, As I was finishing the cuts on my latest project I noticed my speed on my RBI 226VS would change to a slower speed unintentionally and sometimes almost stop. I'd kill the power with my foot pedal, wait a second and start again and it would continue to normal speed, but sometimes also start to stutter again. Ever since I got the saw (12 years ago) I noticed that if I ever changed the speed setting while it was running the saw would "hiccup" (technical term there) as if power was surging to it. As such, I figured the variable speed dial was turning on it's own due to the vibrations from the saw, but it was in the same spot. A slight turn of the dial in the off position seemed to fix the issue and it hasn't reoccurred. The project I was working on was 1/2" poplar when the issue started. Also, the only preventative maintenance I've ever done on the saw is cleaning without disassembly, caring for the cast iron to, and replacing the blade holders. Just curious if anyone else has ever had this problem. Cheers, Dave