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The 1936 Delahaye 135 is a true Art Deco classic with sweeping aerodynamic lines. The Delahaye company of France produced cars from 1894 until the company was purchased in 1954 by Hoskiss. The type 135 was produced with 95 and 120 HP engines and had a r/h drivers’ wheel and was well known on the European racing circuit winning many trophies. What intrigued me most about cutting this car was that the picture of this car was mostly black so the pattern was held together more by thin lines rather than wide section on the front of the pattern. This required a fair amount of planning to get the sequencing right to retain the strength of the pattern. I pretty much had to work from the inside out doing the weakest cuts first and always reinstalling and taping the cut outs back into the plaque. I had a few peninsular cuts like the windshield wipers, door handle and turn signal that made me a little nervous but they came out alright. I really like the Umbria Font that Heppnerguy used for the B-25 pattern. It really fit the era of when this car was made. Pattern is 16 x 9.5” on 1/8” BBPW with ¼” black painted backer. The frame was a little more complicated than my usual frame. This one, I had to cut and prefit and then paint the pieces black. I then glued and pin nailed in place and touched up any gaps with black.

Ship is Steve Goodes scroll saw pattern and the CNC coaster is my design.

This is a AFL Football Plaque (Aussie Footy) The black back is 1/2" pine, the red front is 3mm ply and the white is white cardboard. Pattern was by @scrollriffic. Marg

A quick tribute piece to a team that is very popular here in San Diego.

A little project I did for the wife after she saw something similar at a Kohls. She wanted to buy it and I refused claiming I could do better! The top piece miter joints were a little off, but I'm probably going to change the top out so I can put an empty bottle of wine inside it with the lights in the bottle.

Hi all Thought I would show you my latest cut. This was made for a family members birthday. Cheated on the little bird at the top was a bit to small to cut with out it breaking.

A Harvey Byler pattern adapted to a key/leash holder, Iggy style. 3/4 poplar, #3 Pegas MGT, finished with Watco Natural and spray on shellac.Going into a kids room hence the cool font for the name.

Our assistant pastor is leaving to become senior pastor at a church in Georgia, so I made this name plate for his new desk. This is 5/8" cherry that was milled from a much larger chunk given to me by a friend. He said it had been in his barn for 20+ years and I've had it probably 5 more years. From the size of the original piece and the backstory, I would estimate that tree probably started growing around the early 1900s. Got through it with no burning until I went to cut the base on the table saw. Got a slight burn on the trailing edge. Sanded out easy enough. Finish is Watco Gloss lacquer.

For a friends birthday

Here's a little sign that might brighten up your day and your garden this summer. Free pattern

I just finished cutting out two of the three patterns for "Wizard Wands" that Al @baggetta had published in the Fall 2020, Issue 80 of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine. There are 3 patterns for wands in the magazine. Then there is a pattern and instructions for a "wand stand" on the magazine's website. I have not yet cut out the wand stand. Besides the 3 wands in the magazine, Al has several more patterns for sale in one pattern set on his Etsy site. I believe the patterns from the magazine are included in his set on his Etsy site and you get a total of 16 different wand patterns. I had already purchased his set from Etsy but haven't had a chance to cut any of those yet. Lots of HP wizarding fans in the family so I suspect more will be made and given as gifts. Al put a post up last week with information on the magazine article and a link to his Etsy shop. You can find that post with information here: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/39244-magic-wand-scrollsaw-article/ and here is the bonus stand pattern on the magazine's website (I haven't cut any of those yet) : http://scrollsawer.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2020/06/WEB-SSWC80-Wizard-Wand-Base-Patterns.pdf Thanks Al for creating these patterns. I am sure lots of wizards are going to be thrilled with them! (For those not sure - there is a "curve" created on the wand on the right. I didn't accidentally cut it crooked. )

When cutting portraits, or any fine fretwork, I start in the center and replace and tape any large pieces of fallout. It helps.

I know I have not posted anything for a while but I have been scrolling. I cut this Star Wars pattern for my grandson who is Star Wars mad. I have always told him that he could have the paper pattern but I would never cut it for him, what a surprise he is going to get on Christmas Day. The pattern is by Janevski. There are 338 individual cuts and it took me about 19 hours to do. I cut it from 2.5mm Bamboo ply. Marg

I do lots of stack cutting. My ornaments are made with 1.5 mm Finish Birch ply (1/16) I stack 6 and use a pin nailer in the 4 corners. and some times in any large waste areas. When I use 1/8 BB I typically stack three or four. If it is a large project I definitely pin the waste areas in the inner areas. The stack has to be tight for the best results. For my very detailed ornament(most of them) I use a high tooth count like a Olson 2/0 28 TPI for lesser detail and more speed I will use a Pegas 2/0 15.4 TPI. Lots of folks hold the stacks together in different ways, I find tape or hot glue too time consuming, especially when I am in production mode. Just a heads up when using pins or brads make sure that they do not protrude from the bottom, or they will drag and scratch up your table. I pin on an anvil, then go back and if I feel anything on the bottom I tap it with a small hammer, again supported on an anvile.

That's dissappointing from a new saw. It's no wonder they are selling them at dewalt prices right now. So glad I bought the king

Nice work Roly, but 2020 isn’t over yet!

Don’t forget that you need light pressure holding your wood down. That is one thing that foot does.

awesome job

fantastic job, it's beautiful

terrific job

very nice job

Looks great.

What a very cool idea. Great project.

I'm sure Michelle will love it. Well done. Marg

It looks fantastic. Unfortunately I don't drink wine any more just coffee. Well done David. Marg

What a beauty. The breath holding part would have when you removed the pattern and all of the cut pieces from it, to reveal the car. Truly excellent work Bernd. Marg

That is so cool. Great work. Marg

I did. Marg

Thank you sir.

Excellent! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Great job on a true classic!

That,s the jingle!!! Thanks RA!!!

Amazing cuts !!! What a car!!!

Three things to add. 1. Try skip tooth blades, they tend to clear the sawdust from a deep cut better, also try backing off the cut every few seconds to let the sawdust clear the cut. 2. I find that a stiff blade really helps with the breaking of small details. I am currently using FD polar blades, #3. 3. Strategize how you cut. Visualize where you will be putting pressure on the cut, use this to determine the sequence of cuts. (say you are cutting a stem with thorns; when cutting the thorns, begin the cuts at the point of the thorn working towards the stem.)

Exceptional pieces done to perfection!!!

Good thing everyday is different!!!

Hard to tell from the tall real McCoy.i. I,m impressed with your work!!!

A like it well! Neat idea too.

Amazing work Jeff!

Cool job!

Like it. Good work. Roly

Jeff both of those are absolutely fantastic.

great job

I often stack cut 4-5 layers of 1/8" thick ply. The larger the blanks, the better chance of there being some gaps between the layers, in the middle. Starting with good, flat stock is the first step. If there is any warping in the pieces, then do as NC Scroller does and arrange the layers to minimize gaps. You can arrange the outer layers, to form a concave bow such that when you clamp/tape/glue the outer edges, the center is forced together by flattening the bow. I use hot melt glue around the edges. I stack the pieces, holding them together with spring clamps, then run a bead of hot glue across the outer edges. I don't put anything between the layers. Driving a few brads (or pin nails) in the center waste areas will help. Make sure you file them flat on the bottom, to prevent scratching your table. I've stack cut my share of plywood and I've never had to do this, but it will work.

A "wand-a-full" job!

My wife wanted a napkins holder for our backyard table, I asked Sue Mey for a pattern and this is the end result.

There you go back in the saddle again, nice and slow get the prize.

very nice

Looks good Kevin

Lot's of beautiful work Kevin, I do hope this lady is paying you what it's worth. !!