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Size of box is 10” x 4” and 2 ¾” high. Wood used is Poplar, Alowood, Butternut,Walnut and (unknown) veneer. Finished with polyurethane.

The horse is made from walnut, the base is a piece of holly tree that’s spalted. The finish is walnut Danish oil, with silver and gold leaf paste on the horse. With natural Danish oil and a light semi-gloss on the Base A5AA2C3C-7C54-410C-A4B2-A8D3EB244DA1.MOV

I absolutely forgot how to get a picture off my phone into SSV. This is strange! I've never connected my phone to the computer but somehow I'm able to post them .It's beyond me at this point??? My phone is not synced to the computer either??? help help??? There I go hours later it comes to me. Done in real cheap fiberboard thinking it was Masonite 1/4" pink craft paper backing for the lady. the hands in spirals blades and the rest with a number #5 from Denny's he sent me to try. Blade held it's own!!! #Thanks Denny!!!

I made a dispenser for my peal and stick shelf paper today. Steve Good pattern, 1/2" Blond plywood, Oak fixtures, and a poplar dowel rod. Finished the Oak with spray semi-gloss Lacquer. I think this will be real handy...it looks like a "Good" idea...I know, bad joke.

Fresh off the saw. Literally. Pattern and tape are still in place, outer edges need to be cut. Double-stacked this one, and good thing, there's so many delicate cuts that the bottom edge started to catch on the edge of my saw's table and delaminated in several spots (had to be careful, cuz this tended to send the sawblade shooting off in odd directions, and NEVER into waste wood). The top piece will be fine, the bottom may be really fancy firewood. Pattern by Grampa, available in the pattern library.

This is a follow-up to "Daddy's Hand" I posted back in March. My wife felt it could use a meaningful verse, so here is the final product. I like how she took the picture against the light of the window. It seems to make the touching hands almost "electric".

Good enough for me. I just keep on scrolling if I see something I don't agree with, Just like I wouldn't stop the car and complain or spray paint a reply on a bill board I never agreed with, just keep on keeping on. People are going to have a hard job changing my mind about a lot of things and I reckon I would have the same problem with them, so I'd rather have a beer then stress about immovable objects.

Well, it got to where I couldn't find stuff I knew I had...sound familiar? So I got some wood and took a couple of days (too hot to work long with the big door open) and built a new set of shelves and a finish rack. After I got finished today and cleaned the shop putting everything in it's, new home, I thought I would show a couple of photos of the shop. Look quick...it doesn't stay this clean for long

Well when I ordered the parts from Seyco to rebuild my saw I also ordered the small dust vac system..... I got it all hooked up to the EX after the rebuild.. have run about 3 hours of cutting time on it and it sure is nice not having a pile of sawdust in my lap, shoes, and all over the floor.. I do still get a slight amount that is from the top side of the table... certainly need a collection hose from the top but for now this is 90% better than with nothing at all, LOL.. I had purchased just the Vac and the C-pap hose with a mini cyclone dust separator as well... in fact before I ordered the Seyco system.. but I have yet to receive the dust separator... believe it's coming from China as Amazons shipping said ship by Sept 10th or something around that time.. That system was way cheaper at about $60.. because I found a new open box vac for $28, C-pap hose at $6 and the mini cyclone was around $25 for the aluminum one.. I'll hook this one up to one of the Hawk saws once the cyclone shows up.. I cut one stack of 5 Christmas ornaments from BB ply and then cut two of these clocks.. The photo shows the amount of sawdust in the canister.. Virtually no dust in the Vac filter!!

Coffee House is a place for off topic conversations, but the same forum rules still apply (those are found here). Even though it's off topic, politics and religion are not allowed. A conversation may feel lighthearted to the original poster, but these subjects will spin wildly out of control. Most of us identify with with a certain belief system that is core to our identity. When we attack or poke fun at one of those belief systems, it's easy to take it as a personal attack. So that is why we have that long-standing rule. I want to focus on what brings us together, not what tears us apart. I have several posts within this thread that clarifies a lot of stuff, so that might be helpful for new folks. I hope that helps.

She coated them in epoxy.

A great idea and nice looking job. Just a thought, I do occasionally have good ones. This may or may not be that time Placing a hack saw blade on the wood strip with the teeth just proud so you would not need to cut the paper. You could then hang it on a wall. Just thinking out loud.

Bobby quick an simple, That's what I like!!! I do the same but have 3- 20" box fans mounted on a sheet of ply on the back door for positive ventilation and then the leaf blower!!! These run constant when scrolling.

I like it! I may have to look into making that

You are going to like that cutter. I made one from his pattern, with a few modifications, and use it regularly. My change was to make the cutting platform shorter, for easier storage. I also used an aluminum bar for the cutting guide. I know how easy it is for me to damage a wood straight edge with a sharp knife. Tom

Like a dummy I got the email from SSV yesterday that recaps all the activity and after reading your post with all the pics, I replied to it. Forgetting that it was not SSV but an email. So my reply is floating around out there in the cloud. Anyway, what I said was, now that you have your saw all squared away and are as happy as I have been with my 2 EX's, you won't need to upgrade to a Pegas. That saw will last you a very long time unless you just ask it to do too much. I'm happy that you are now happy. Cheers.

I guess the biggest question that remains is when Kevs Independent Scrollsaw Repair Shop opens for business?

Pattern from Steve Good, my neighbor have a very friendly little dog and I thought this sign will be appropriate.

My router with a round-over bit burns my projects. My router is a small trim router housed in a cheap Rockler $49 router table. The project that was burned is approximately 5X3-1/2 inches and 1/2" thick Oak. I did the round-over in two stages. Fist was with the router cutting shallow, the a second a finishing pass. The router is either dull, the router does not spin fast enough or whatever. I moved the wood across the bit as fast as I could but the bit will only cut so fast. On straight pieces it is not so much of a problem but on the curve I can't guide the piece fast enough. Perhaps I will just redo it with Poplar.

Great work

Well, both of the tables on my saws are still in very good shape and they have both been used. I think the Chinese saws are more cheaply made in every way possible.

Well, we will be much closer once I relocate but still a ways away.

Here,s what she wanted, not my best and not my worst, 3/4" ply ,galleria acrylics

I have nothing scientific o show it but I feel I get probably twice the cut time with Pegas MGT blades as I did with same size Flying Dutchman UR. Now Pegas are more aggressive so they may not be right for all cutting.

nice job

Well you know when you have grandkids you can't just do one. LOL. Probably at least 6 or 7. I have over 12 grandkids and great grandkids. I can't do them all though.

Oh that is a Good idea. Well done. Marg

Gary do you make house calls? looks like your idea will work here too!!!!!!!!! Good ones!!!

I have a need for this, Thanks for posting!!!!

That makes me think it is not the blades. Otherwise many people would be having a problem too. That just makes me thing there must be other variables at play. Unfortunately I don't have any suggestions other than those already stated. Guess I'm no help.

Nice shop! I see you have spray foam insulated walls. We have that type insulation at work. If we keep the doors closed (which drives me nuts) it stays relatively cool. About 75-80 degrees, which is cool in my opinion. Big smile. And yes, I am from the frozen tundra of Minnesota.

I think you are probably right on that Ray.. The EX bearing and sleeve quality in the parts I received from Seyco was much tighter and smoother than any of the other saws I've taken down to rebuild.. When I rebuilt my DW788.. I bought all new bearings and quality ones.. new sleeves from Dewalt.. but the sleeves / bearings was still not as tight together as what these parts were that I got.. That saw lasted around 6 years of production cutting.. My DW788 was a type 2 so that could be a bit sloppy from the type 1 saw maybe.. whatever the case.. the saw runs really nice now and hoping it'll last long enough to pay for itself again.. Was thinking about painting my table.. not because I need to but the finish is worn off and even through the primer coat in some spots.. Only reason I thought about doing it is because I painted a Chevy Trailblazer a few years back and it's about the exact same color, LOL.. I think the Urethane two stage base / clear coat is a much higher quality paint than whatever they used on my saw..I'm not sure if it's because of the cheap China made saw thing or is it a Excalibur thing but only about 30 hours on the saw and much of the paint was worn off.. the primer seems to be holding up better than the actual paint did, LOL.. If I didn't already have the paint I probably wouldn't fuss with it.. Maybe won't anyway.. but just something I thought about while sawing today and happen to look up on my paint shelf and seen that can sitting there..

We need to be neighbors friend!!!

Well today I run the saw to cut a couple clock orders.. The saw is a total different saw than what it was.. even when it was new... The new rocker assemblies came with the EX blade chucks.. Not sure anyone remembers the issues I had with the ones that came with the saw.. I often wondered if it was user error or something.. SO with that said.. I left the EX chucks on instead of putting the Pegas chucks on.. I wanted to assure myself that the chucks that came with the saw was defective or something.. Running the saw today I had no issues with the EX clamps.. I've determined the China made chucks have the hole drilled and tapped for the thumb / set screw is not in the correct position.. It is slightly forward.. and I was always having to fiddle with where to position the blade in order to clamp it.. If you put it all the way back to the back the thumb screw would miss the blade.. The EX clamps I got with my parts works very nicely.. though I do like the Pegas ones better and will probably swap them out at some point.. The saw runs really smooth and pretty quiet.. Over all I'm finally happy with it.. and actually quite impressed with how well it works.. I might have a new favorite saw, LOL.. I'll likely sell it and buy a Pegas late this year early next year so long as business stays good and busy.. Here is another repair I did.. well heck I gotta get the photos off my phone so I'll come back and edit this in a few, LOL So this is the repair of tightening up the adjustment knob at that back of the saw.... Probably nobody will ever take their saw apart to do this just for this reason.. but if you have issues with the back knob turning on its own and you take the saw apart for something else take the time to make this repair while you're in there.. See this little rectangle shape piece on the side of the back part of the saw.. This piece is threaded and the threaded rod where your knob is screws into it and pushes down on the back of the arm.. There is a small thicker piece of welded flat stock welded to the top of the arm and that is where the rod pushes onto it to adjust the upper arm for parallel.. I should have taken a photo of the spot where the rod hits the upper arm.. from the thing turning on it's own for a long time it had actually worn a fairly deep indent into that plate that is welded onto the upper arm. Photo of the threaded block taken out of the saw... Here is a photo of the block in the saw and it shows how the top smaller piece is screwed to the larger black piece to hold it from sliding out of the saw.. You have to unscrew that screw and take the top piece off before sliding that threaded part out of the saw.. I should have ordered a new one but it never crossed my mind as I did this repair once a while ago but thought I'd redo it since I had it torn down this far and easy access to it.. If you look close you can sort of see the round shiny spot where the rod rest on the upper arm.. I have the arm lifted almost straight up in the photo.. I'm not sure if I helped or hindered the thing from turning by itself because I added a spot of grease where that shiny spot is.. But I think the loc-tite will still hold it.. and this makes the knob turn much smoother than before. That might be a problem though if the loc-tite doesn't hold it, LOL Photo of the screw and rod taken out and ready to remove the piece and clean it up good..for a new dose of loc-tite The bottom of the rod ll cleaned up and fresh loc-tite on the threads.. The threads are two step.. the bottom portion is smaller where the washer and lock nut go on to hold it from un-threading is out of the saw.. The portion with the blue loc-tite is where it threads into that block Well hopefully all this info I put up on this will help someone someday should they take on a rebuild of a EX or similar saw.. Also hope this info might help someone that accidentally bought a China made saw and wonder if the parts from a original EX from Seyco will work with the China made saw... since Ray doesn't support these saws or parts for them.. Maybe there will be a flood of cheap China made EX saws in the used market that people got frustrated with and selling real cheap or free never know you might run upon a garage sale one for $5-10.. could be worth building it if you're a tinker kinda person that likes doing this kind of thing... as long as all the electronics are good.. one could build their own saw like I did here and have a decent saw..

I was having the same problem with some cheap Menards bits. Purchased a Freud roundover, and haven't had a bit of burning since.

She way over payed me, Thanks!!!

Nice! I always get a chuckle out of this, we have a furry doorbell as well, lets us know when the pizza guy arrives....or Amazon delivery....or someone walking by...or a sketchy-looking leaf blowing down the street.......

More pass is a great idea. Raise the router bit a little at a time and make the last pass taking very little off. Here is a picture of a homemade router table from Woodsmith plans that I use my trim router on.

Under and over tensioning can also cause breaking.

We've all been there Kevin, so don't fret. The more you worry and stress the more you'll make yourself poorly. All will come back to you at some point so just try and relax a little. Take care of yourself my friend.

I have been in your shoes,I was laid up for awhile,then when I was finally able to get back to my shop,it all started to come back to me.Slowly but Surely,then Quicker after a few hours.Don't worry Kevin your the Name Master,

Lots of factors so in order to help you we need to know more. Do they break immediately or after a period of time? What size and brand blade are you using and what kind and thickness is the wood? Is it breaking at the clamps or in the middle?

Welcome to the Village.. What blades are you using? It's a possibility that you could have a bad batch of blades.. Over the years I've had a few packages that had skipped past quality control.. The dealer sent out a new package to me because they had complaints and found a run of bad quality blades.. I've had this happen on both Flying Dutchman a Pegas blades over the years.. Any time there is blade breakage it's a good idea to ask on these forums as they could have run a bad batch.. When this happen to me I was changing saw set-up with blade tension and other common things that cause blade breaking.. pulling my hair out trying to figure it out.. then seen a post on here that there was a bad run of blades.. If that person had not posted this info I would still be fooling with my saw.. and that was over a year ago, Hahaha.. Some helpful tips for asking about breakage is.. giving the info on what brand / style / size of blades ... what saw you're using and what you're trying to cut.. Also are they breaking near the top or bottom of the blade or in the middle etc.. this gives us something to diagnose what's happening.. Once you post some more details I'm sure someone will be able to give you some advice to try to pinpoint the problem..

He surely will! Thanks for the complement! I started the first cut with a Pegas #1 MG that was in the saw. Then I thought I would give "the Devil's blade" aka spiral another try. Usually it eats everything it touches and I throw it in the trash, but I got it to behave...mostly. I only had the 2 blades left so I cut the tight stuff first and when the last blade broke the only thing left to do was his coat. I'll order some today. The only ones I've tried were 2/0. Is there any other sizes that work well? Or is a larger size easier to learn spiral cutting?

Lot's of beautiful work Kevin, I do hope this lady is paying you what it's worth. !!

Thanks Travis. Good explanation and I think a very common sense approach.

No: Facebook is not the place for political comments. I know! I was just kicked off of there for not agreeing with them.

There goes my plan to announce my candidacy for "Earth Czar" and base my campaign on more scrolling--less stress.

Yes, thanks Travis. I know I'm the biggest offender. I'll try to watch myself a bit closer. Maybe we need another icon that is a slap to the side of the head just for me. Sorry everybody.

I'd also like to followup....dealing with political posts, either explicit or subtle jabs, is my LEAST favorite chore in running SSV. If anything, please make my life a little easier and refrain from politics. It will really help my stress levels.