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I was going to blacken the cross hairs but chickened out! May still do it, but the areas that doesn’t show the cross hairs, scared I’ll mess it up. Pretty cool pattern!

I cut this for Tony, it's a surprise for him, I hope he likes it. I started it a while back and I can't remember where I got the pattern from, but if I do recall I'll give credit as I think it's a great pattern. It's a Jim Blume pattern.

I did this jewelry box pattern by Alex Fox over the weekend. Man...that's a lot of pieces for a little box! It's 1/8" BB ply done with a #1 Pegas blade. I think it would sell at the craft shows this winter, so I might get some 1/8" Walnut and Hard Maple from Ocooch and try it with hardwood.

Pattern by Charles Hand

Howling wolf bookmarks. Found these ovals (I didn't cut the outer edges at all, that's how they came out of the pack) at the crafts store (Michaels), next to all the popsicle sticks. They're MUCH better to cut than balsa (they were completely out of BB ply), cheap, and come 8 to a pack. These may be my go-to if I need to cut any more bookmarks. The craft sticks: https://www.michaels.com/wide-wood-craft-sticks-by-creatology/10433016.html

Finally got back to the scroll saw for a few hours. Been busy making pens on the lathe for co-workers. Not the best that I have cut, but needed something simple to ease back into it. Sheila Landry designs. Walnut and Maple

If this puzzle looks a little bit odd, it's because it is. I call it a surface puzzle because the actual puzzle floats on the top of a backboard surface and locks into place by special pins at strategic points. So a flat puzzle with no real locking pieces can become a meaty stand up puzzle. See how to video and Download Here.

Well done, but I my first thought when I saw the thread title was...

I bought some for bookmarks from a local aircraft model store years ago but a member or our club bought 1/32 baltic birch from aircraftspruce recently. They have a store in Brantford Ontario plus a number of factories in the USA. All sorts of thicknesses. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/

I prefer to release the tension. I am more comfortable removing the pre-load from the bearings especially when I won't be scrolling for a while.

Can't remember where I got it from, but when I did bookmarks before I ordered Finnish plywood from a model airplane site. It comes really thin - like 1/64" or 1/32" - it is flexible but strong.

Beautiful,work Gary. I agree, it would look great done in an exotic hardwood.

Not really apples to apples. Letting something set "for several years" will cause the grease to set up and harden. I spent a bunch of time in the concrete business. All the tensioned cables are coated with plastic, because as you said, without it, brine on the road would rust the cables. Bridges are always the lowest spot in a road, therefore, brine accumulates there. Concrete is porous. If you fill a concrete vessel with water, it will slowly seep out. There are a host of older, smaller bridges that have re-rods in them. They are rusting out, but the politicians would rather spend money on parks & bike trails. You get more votes that way. jerry

Hi Don: Happy Days might have had their own "Fonzie" But having you here at the Village gives us our very own "FONTZIE" Thanks for helping us Villagers in times of Font searches Fab4

I think that the font might be Cream Candy. Here is an example. It is available on dafont.com

well she said she likes black an yellow so I made the new girl at the store this one. I know she will laugh seeing it & but I don,t know if that,s a good thing,lol

Been to long not using my paints. Nothing I know would thin out the semi hard old acrylics.

very nice

Looks good Gary!

love the bookmarks!!! iv been wanting to make bookmarks forever but never could find wood that was thin enough.. am going to bookmark those sights

Good choice for hubby especially if he,s a veteran!!!

Thank you

Back to planes. I belong to a forum on Facebook dedicated to recip engine powered corporate aircraft and I have been adding some of my related aircraft plaques to that group. The A-26 was a modified A-20 Marauder used in WWII with the same R2800 radial engines. It was operational in Korea and Vietnam as a ground attack aircraft. As they went out of service many were bought by private operators and modified for corporate transport use. The On Mark company upgraded several, (40-60) removing the bomb bays and military equipment and adding corporate interiors with seating for 6-8 passengers and additional side windows and upgraded avionics. The aircraft was fast at 360 mph and was popular with corporate operator until the advent of turbo prop and jets like the G-I and Learjets. I used the Umbria font. I like it because it doesn't need any bridges. Size of plaque is 11 x 14 BBPW with 1/4" backer. Finish, Shellac with gloss Lacquer.

This is a Steve Good pattern that I modified. I used the drops from the inlaid box to make a second box that is fret work.

Ah,, about an hour and a half away from me.

Not on my car!! I fill the tires with helium so there is less weight... gotta watch the speeds on those small bridges so we don't come off the ground..

I feel like certain others. Keeping the tension on will weaken the Blade in the long run. I have a Hegner and think I learned about Blade Tension when I started Scrolling way back in 2007 and first began on Steve Goods Forum. Lots of To Each His Own here. Danny :+}

I will ditto woodduck

I always release it.

Your work always blows my mind Dave! Fantastic.

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I would be happy to give a quote but only by PM or email.

They look great. When I cut the trees I didn't cut or drill all of the holes I put some bling on them, made them sparkle and shine. Marg They are in my gallery. Sorry should of said.

Your King Midas with everything you scroll!!!

I saw this plan on Youtube and just juiced it up a little. Im sure my Grandkids will enjoy the X-Mas light box for years to come.

I quit sawing & gave our Delta to a son. On the lower arm, there are 4 screws holding the mount for the 2 oscillating arms that connect to the blade clamp. Remove the 4 screws & the one that powers the "arms". Pull the mount out. IF you have a Dremel (I used a chainsaw file), file the holes further forward (towards the front of the saw), creating oblong shapes. Reassemble & shim the mount towards the front of the saw. It helps when stack cutting intricate shapes. jerry

Quit looking at it. If it is doing what you ask of it its not worth driving yourself nuts about. I have a dewalt and also an old delta. Worst thing i ever did was look up what can go wrong with them because it always had me questioning every little thing. Same thing when I heard that people have a thing feeling that their socks are bunching up under their foot when wearing shoes. Like to drive me nuts until I realized i spent most days barefoot.

Even if I look away or get up to do something i always release the tension. Real anal about it.

Ditto

I subscribe to an web site called fontbundles.net. They have freebee Friday and this was one of the freebees but it also is on dafont. I am a font junkie and collect neat stuff. A lot of these are used with Cricut machines. I have designed a few signs for a friend and so I am always on the look out.

Wow, that was like a straw in haystack, I'm very impressed you were able to find that.

Thanks so much! I'll see if I remember how to download from there. Been awhile!

what model?

I release it going from hole to hole as well.

If you are cutting the font with raised letters as in your picture, most text should not be a problem. If you are scrolling into the wood (as mentioned above) you need to do bridges. Remember to cut the weakest or inside parts first. A,B,G,O,P,Q,R. In some applications, I have actually painted in the bridges with the matching backing color. I would try a test cut and painting to see if it looks right before doing a final piece.

Thanks for offering to help me. I’m attempting to make a plaque similar to the one below. I’m needing the name Pannell.

Not sure about the Delta saw but on the EX-16. by loosening the motor mounting screws and rotating the motor or moving to the next mounting holes, you can change the "bite" of the blade. Finer cuts, less bite, (and less Jump) bigger cuts, more bite. There are various threads on the site on how to do this.

What moves? It has to be either the lower or upper arm that moves. Knowing that would help solve your problem

Most of these would require that you add some bridges but, here are some fonts to look up and consider. I would use and have used Script MT Bold on several occasions. Script MT Bold is my first choice. Brush Script MT Cursive Elegant Lucida Handwriting French Script MT Edwardian Script Palace Script MT Good luck with your project, I hope you show us the completed work, and God Bless! Spirithorse

I release it ONLY when I change blades or move to a new hole.

Sometimes I do but mostly 'no'. I see no advantage or disadvantage to leaving the tension on.