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This is my first pice. Made on a $25 Ryobi pin end. I learned a lot on it. When I look at all I see are my mistakes. I have a Cricut that I made the template on . Then traced it on the green tape, drilled holes and cut out. The finished picture is in bad lighting the stain is even. my questions are. 1. Are the pin end blades at the dutchman store better than Menards? 2. Puzzles look like some thing I would like. Where can I get full size patterns? I don’t have a printer. Thanks in advance for all of your comments.

Grooms little sister painted it. I think she did a great job

this is third map project I made small Korea puzzle before that's why I made it later here is where I am living I put 142 animals (flagship species,important animals,Frogs and insects) I hope to do forth map puzzle before the end of this year

Hi All I made this for my girl friend she is a garfield fan..

This pattern is by Keith Fenton and found in CWWC August 2014, the last published issue. I used Red Oak 1/2" x 8" x 10" and backed with Baltic Birch plywood stained black with SamaN stain. It was cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #3R MGT blades. After sanding, finished with spray Shellac.

This was my first attempt on using different stains on the same project. I didn’t tape off the different areas so stain ran, especially on the horse. So to try and help the project, I used water colors to try and cover up some of the issues. Then added more on the reflection to draw attention. Probably won’t try this again!

First of all your cutting looks great but I would not have drill all of the holes in one go, what if you broke some of and it could not be fixed, you have waste all of your wood and it would just be fire wood. If you want to drill a lot of holes in one go just do a quarter or half at the most. Just my 5c worth. Marg

Started scrolling with it today and it is laminated. I had not ordered laminated BB. Scrolls beautifully. I used a #1 Pike blade. They do not have reverse teeth and the scrolled piece is remarkably fuzzies free.

Finished this up today, done on Oak and Popular, turned out decent, and this is for me, sorta got the bug for this kind of thing. pattern from Lloyds toy maling plans.

One of my customer asked some nautical pattern to make gift for his friend sailor and suggested to make anchor pattern. Usually I dont make patterns for request, but this time I like the idea and decided to make it, I also added naval steering wheel and rope. Video of making Anchor Anchor pattern

Iv been working on my wizzard fret work mostly at my saw, so decided to finish some things i have shoved in a boxs.... I love doing the compound cut patterns and im sure the rest of you do this too. I dont throw away the side pieces most of the time, i toss them into a box, and then when it gets to hot to scroll in the wood shop I grab a box of what ever needs to be finished and make myself at home at the kitchen table. lol this time i decided it was time to work with the compound cut wast wood. Now what i do is this IF on the inside of the side piecees have to many different thickness i carefuly take the peice to my saw and saw down the higher parts and then finish it with my dremal... most of the work is done with the dremal making that side flat or carved so it looks right. that way i get 3 or 4 projects from one compound cut. when there finished i make magnets out of them , or glue them to crocheted headbands, or use them for inlays or what ever comes to mind at the time lol i know im not expling this to well but the pictures will help make it clear and like i said im sure you guys do this too so you'll really understand what im trying to saywhen you see the pics ok well of course the pics arent all in order but the first 2 pics are of the little tub i throw the my compound cut waist pieces. The next 3 pictures are of the wizard pattern im cutting out...the left side is where i made the inside cuts just in case you cant tell. the next 3 are of the compound cut and waist pieces all done and painted, I have to glue the wiggle eyes on the bunnys and frogs they just have to have the finishe put on them the 3 snowmen i made out of the wast from the pencle bunny topper i got on here.... i crocheted each one a hat and scarf and im going to go see if i can find some small enough brances in that big pile of sticks and brances we have in the back yard, if i do i'll give them arms lol the last 2 pictures are of some of the peices im working on now. lol now remember i DIDNT cut all of these things out now, im just taking the ones in the box and finishing them.... now i know i can put a plastic bag over my foot so sawdust dosnt get in the toe but before i can do more work on them i have to find a way to prop up my left foot while at the kitchen table. lol same with the sawing...have to find a way to prop up my foot as they want it elevated. im sure i'll think of something!! unless of course spike has a fit about my doing woodworking with a stithed up foot. lol im glad he didnt live with me when i was younger and totaly housebound, i dont think he could have handled it. lol i had to dr myself up when ever i got hurt... or sick lol it was not aways a pretty sight!! lol well im going to get off here and see if i can figure out a way to prop my foot so i can do some more work on those cast off pieces

I had some given to me one time by a friend. He called it "apple" ply. It was 1/2" thick and like yours it was slick on both sides. I used it on my table saw for fence sides.

I go to Paxton's i Cincinnati and i feel like I died and went to heaven, and my wallet feels so much lighter also, Great place and nice staff.

I started releasing blade tension when I had a Delta P20 scroll saw because the parallel arms were made of a composite material. My thinking was if the saw wasn't used for a long time a memory might be developed in the arm material. It has just become a part of shutting my saw down now.

I go to paxton wood cincinnat and they had some in 3/4 that's the first I ever seen it and thay said that you can use it for a finish table or such useally there 5x5 BB ply is about 220 for 1/4 and 18 for 1/8 When I go in there I feel lika a kid in the candy store. IKE

Never seen it, but I have heard of laminated bb. Maybe that's what it is.

Hi Everyone! I am so happy I stumbled upon this group. From what I have read so far everyone seems so friendly and eager to help. I am super new to scrolling. I recently purchased a cheap scroll saw from harbor freight tools to start and I have been pretty happy with it. The last time I used a scroll saw was in my 8th grade wood shop class. So luckily I went in with a little knowledge, but definitely not much. I am super excited to learn new things from this group and see what everyone is making! I am from Long Island and my full time job is an animal trainer at the aquarium. In my free time I make wood signs and other home decor which I sell on Etsy and I am excited to use the scroll saw to enhance my pieces. Here is the first thing I cut on my saw.... A little humpback whale which was later stained and covered in beach wave resin art! I haven't looked through the templates and all the forums too much, but I thought it would be super fun if someone made a scroll saw 30 day challenge. A new small template to cut each day of the month to help beginners practice different techniques. If anyone has any fun ideas to include or know if something like this exists I would love to see it! Thanks guy!

Cheap plywood 1/2"x2'x 10" tall she wants black letters and paint the trees. Cut with fdscroll reverse #9.

For my wifes friends sons wedding. Still needs paint and stain

You have certainly made a very nice piece. I would also recommend a printer or second choice would be using Office Depot or other digitas service.

Beautiful work as usual,

Beautiful job cutting and sister did a great job painting. Great team work.

Beautiful work. I have owned several Cricuts and other die cut machines since the first Cricut came out several years ago (back in 2006). Cartridges were never cheap and I don't know what used ones sell for now or how easily they are to find. While I still have mine and a ton of cartridges it is never used- I moved up to other cutters that use software that let you create and cut to them without the need for cartridges. There were two programs that you could get to create your own designs and work with fonts on your computer. Provocraft sued them though to prevent them from working with their cutters so they don't work directly with that brand. There are "workarounds" though so if you are ever interested in learning more on that, let me know. I would recommend getting a printer if you are wanting to regularly use patterns for your scroll saw. It would be much easier then be limited to the Cricut and their cartridges and you can get a printer relativity cheap (probably cheaper then getting a few cricut cartridges that can only be used with that machine). The printer would allow you to do more with a ton of free patterns from multiple sources like here in the Village library and from Steve Good's blog http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com to name but two sources. (Steve has a few puzzle patterns). Then Al also gives away a ton of free patterns on his site http://baggetta.com and has some he sells, some of which are puzzles. The animal puzzles referenced above that Scott (Iggy here on the forum) does can be found on his site here: https://www.woodcraftbyscott.com - he sells them but they are created by Harvey Byler. If you don't have a printer, and don't want to get one just yet - you could take patterns that you get online and download to your computer and send those to print at a print shop like those at Office Depot, FedEx copy centers, etc. so that would be another option for you to consider if you found a pattern you wanted to use but needed to print out.

For your information we have a Scroll saw club "Long island Scroll Saw association" L.I.S.A. it is part of the long island woodworking club. https://liwoodworkers.org/ I was the president of the group for a few years. We have a real cross section of members new and a few that have been scrolling for over 70 years. All glad to share their knowledge and skills.

Like everyone, i get those blowouts due to that unsupported area where the blade goes through the table. Dewalt saw. I have been using a playing card with a hole in the middle of it taped to the table top. That works ok but the wood catches on the edge of the card and its irritating. Figured I needed something bigger. Went to walmart and in the shelf liner section they have rolls of self adhesive clear lamination for about $6. Worked perfect. Taped a sheet to a blank of some scrap wood and drilled a hole in the middle. Taped it on the sides to the edge of the table and works great.

nice job

beautiful job

The only hard limits on what a pin-ended blade can do are physical limits. The blades are going to be thicker at the ends to accommodate the pins, possibly shorter (unless yours takes 5" pinned blades). Other than that, they're still scroll saws and cut wood like every other scroll saw out there. Kinda like photography, every camera is the same once you push the button. Keep on cuttin', get used to your saw and what it can do, find ways to push the limits, cuz the big factor that separates a master from a beginner is practice.

Not bad at all!!! My first piece had two interior cuts. Keep goin with it! Check out yard sales, estate sales, or thrift stores for decent prices on printers. Just keep in mind that while inkjet cartridges are cheap, you'll pay more in the long run over a laserjet. A decent B&W laserjet isn't all that expensive retail ($300-$500), but a color laser can get up there in price...but laser toners last forever when just printing patterns, and don't have the nasty habit of drying out if you don't print on a regular basis. A trick with pin-ended blades...those pins can be popped out. My first saw was a Dremel 57-2, I got it at a yard sale for $25. 3" pin-ended blades, I started with Olsen blades cuz that was all I could find, until I found Bear Woods website and discovered a couple of different Pegas versions. Take a piece of scrap metal (I picked up a flat piece at the hardware store, near where all the drawer pulls and angle-iron is stashed), drill a 1/16 hole in the middle of it. Drill a 1/2" hole in a block of wood, and attach the scrap metal so the 1/16 and 1/2 holes align. Lay a blade on the metal piece, blade flat, pin's sticking up, and put one side of the top pin into the 1/16 hole (it should just barely fit). Tap it with a hammer, then use an icepick or punch or something similar to push the pin the rest of the way through. Now you can drill much smaller pilot holes for your blade, which will open up a lot of patterns for you! To secure the blades in the saw, take a medium-sized paperclip and thread it through the hole in the top of the blade. I ended up taking one paperclip and some wire snips, and cutting small lengths and bending them in half, that way when I invariably dropped one, it wasn't a huge loss if I couldn't find it.

You know I did that, refrigerator magnets would not stick, so I figured double sided tape. Then I laid the ordered sheet on the table top to draw the cut line and it stuck. Either the ordered sheet has more magnetic "power" or the framework below the table top works to attract the sheet.

Not only nice but ambitious for your 1st piece. You carried it of nicely.

Oh I never noticed the date before I only saw the 2020. Yes she did a great job. The bide and groom will love it. Marg

From what I can see in the photo it looks great but you can see it better than me, so I will say excellent work Ron. Marg

Very well done! Thanks for haring and God Bless! Spirithorse

Nicely done project! As for patterns but, no printer to print them with, can you load the images to your Cricut machine to make the pattern the way you did with the project you pictured? That seems like an awfully expensive use of vinyl if I understand your process. Cheaper to buy a printer, I would think. That would also be an awful lot of tracing for puzzle patterns unless you are talking about puzzles like Iggy sells (similar to these and you can look for posts from Iguanadon) rather than jigsaw puzzles. God Bless! Spirithorse

Very nice!

I have heard that using a wood burner to outline the area to be stained will block the stain from spreading. I guess the burner "cauterizes" the wood pores to stop the stain from wicking to other parts of the wood. I haven't done it myself, so cannot guarantee it will work. It should also work with water colors. Tom

Very good collaboration. It be be treasured.

Got my order in the mail today... so the service seems timely as one should expect.. I haven't done any sanding with it yet and probably won't for a few more weeks since I have some sheets of my other paper left to use up.. That said, looking in a couple of the boxes the paper looks and feels like a good quality... but the real test will be using it.. Thanks to everyone who had made suggestions.. I'll recap on this after I run through a couple sheets..

Welcome to the Village forum from TN. There is another member of the forum from Long Island - Rolf.

The white magnet stuff is amazing. And if the table top is not magnetic, use double sided tape.

My table top is not cast iron so a magnet would not work. What I did was buy a two pack cutting boards at the dollar store cut it to size and secured it with tape to the bottom of the table. These cutting boards are flimsy plastic for cutting boards, but work great for this purpose and my wood slides around so much easier.

I totally agree - thou thats a hard thing to do now a days but I will be as good as i can be

Why not just tape/stick to table top....

Back to planes. I belong to a forum on Facebook dedicated to recip engine powered corporate aircraft and I have been adding some of my related aircraft plaques to that group. The A-26 was a modified A-20 Marauder used in WWII with the same R2800 radial engines. It was operational in Korea and Vietnam as a ground attack aircraft. As they went out of service many were bought by private operators and modified for corporate transport use. The On Mark company upgraded several, (40-60) removing the bomb bays and military equipment and adding corporate interiors with seating for 6-8 passengers and additional side windows and upgraded avionics. The aircraft was fast at 360 mph and was popular with corporate operator until the advent of turbo prop and jets like the G-I and Learjets. I used the Umbria font. I like it because it doesn't need any bridges. Size of plaque is 11 x 14 BBPW with 1/4" backer. Finish, Shellac with gloss Lacquer.

I can so relate to the time issue. I stopped reading any of the blogs for a while because people kept putting in the time it took them to cut a project. I have realized that I cut at the speed and time I cut and it doesn't matter to any one how long it took. I don't sell at markets, so there is no time line. The only one putting the "time" issue on an item was me. It is still frustrating seeing someone post something with a time frame and I wonder "HOW THE H3ll" did they do that in that time????

I have used them for 20 years. pretty sure you won't be disappointed.

I've stack cut 4 layers 1/4" oak and poplar with no problem. I think your biggest problem might be slightly warped wood leaving a gap in the middle. Try arranging your layers so they are as flat as possible.

Dragonkort, I tried all of the different methods that have been discussed here. Double sided sticky tape, (3m -ATG a very useful tool), hot glue, on the edges, blue tape on the edges, etc. All work to some degree but if you are going to do a lot of it they get to be problematic and time consuming. We all find a method that works for us.