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I finished the shutter order for a lady today. What a job! She wanted each side 14 1/2" wide and 26" tall...My saw is a 16"... I did learn some new tricks though. First I had to drag the saw out in the middle of the shop to have room around it. Then I designed the shutters from a shelf bracket I found on line. Went to Rapid Resizer and blew it up to the measurements and printed the 6 page pattern. I figured if I could get one to come out right I would flip it over and use it as a templet. Not having a jointer and planer, I had a cabinet maker friend make me two blanks with 1 x 8s edge glued. Then came the trouble. I did the layout and double checked the measurements before cutting, thank God, to find the pattern was 1/4" off one way and almost 3/8" off in another spot! Back to the computer. Checked the input numbers and printed it on plain paper...still off. So I increased the measurements a little and printed . The trouble spots were now OK...but a different spot was not!! At this point I went out and check all the measurements of the 1/4" plywood trial I did. Close enough to use as a template and I could "wing it"...LOL. I also found out I really needed three hands... So I took an art brush, dropped it through the entry hole, used it to line up the blade slot in the table. and held the large blank with a 4" quick clamp. Then I removed the brush and could top feed the whole thing and tighten the bottom blade clamp, remove the quick clamp and cut ! Then repeat for the next hole! Kind of crazy...but it worked slick. Glad to be done with this project! She is going to prime and paint them to go with her kitchen...so I don't have to finish them!! Two things came out of this project, besides a learning experience. 1. I got that big cutout, between the lighthouse and the side frame, out almost intact today. I checked it and I can cut a puzzle dog from the scrap piece and sell it!! Bad news is I didn't think of it yesterday and cut that piece into smaller pieces getting it out. 2. This afternoon as I was working on it the lady calls me. It seems she does fundraising for local cancer victims. She wants me to come up with a trinket box to put a picture in the lid and a CUBS logo on it. It will be filled with the money she's raising for a lady with breast cancer who will be going through chemo in a month or two after a Mastectomy. So I get a triple play for this project! And probably a chance to be involved for other cancer patients!

BB plywood 6mm, frame BB plywood 22mm. Ca 550*400mm

My new Trivet with optical illusion effect, and all my trivet projects. Which one do you like more? Video of making trivet Trivet patterns

Here's a few of mine that I've done over the years.

Thanks Smitty for sharing your pattern. I did this in a piece of 1/4" Cherry and finished it with 321. I really like the design and the way it came out. Thanks for looking.

This one has one of my at This one has one of my at painting peg dolls. I'm not to good at it. However, someone bought it. It now lives in Germany. I had a problem drilling the hole for the peg doll until it dawned on me to wait until it was done and drill the hole with it painted and the wheels on.

These are from the The Great All-American Wooden Toy Book by Norman Marshall published in 1986. I was also published in "Great Book of Wooden Toys" It's all old school as in you will need to make/enlarge patterns by hand. Some of the plans were also published in the Shopsmith Hands-On magazine. That is where I first encountered them. I need to make some more of these. I have a box of parts that I haven't used.

I made this Norm Marshall car years ago and kept all these years. I made a lot of them. I don't remember if I used a scroll saw when I made these, but I did have one. A cast iron AMT brand scroll saw I no longer own, but it is still being used. I gave it o a friend after I bought my EX21. How long ago did I make these? Pretty close to forty years ago.

The original drawing is by Ovid Creasy. I selectively stained the wood with slightly different stains to darken the water. The wood had a natural "flaw" through the center right where I needed it.

My wife restores stained glass windows. Had one that needed a frame added. I used mortise & tendon joints. Inlayed leaves on sides out of green popular. Main frame is red oak. Arm-R-Seal finish.

@FrankEV I agree, trash the hold down piece, both top and bottom. The bottom one is some kind of safety thing. Then remove the diaphragm for the vacuum from the bottom of the table, it tends to get clogged if you use it. I too loved the goose neck LED light on the Porter Cable saw, and I still am sorely disappointed in the high dollar saws that think that less than $5 per unit is prohibitive. I put the air tube on the right side like you are talking about, but I just looped it around and changed out the nozzle end too. Put a magnetic sheet on the table top, even if it does not stick as it should, use double sided tape to hold it down. Slicker than owl sh*t and no waxing to worry about - pic attached.

I would think an iron on cloth patch would work pretty well. just cut a strip about and inch wide and iron it onto the backs of the plywood halves. Tom

I have had the Pegas for several months and I like it better every day. Two bits of advice: take the work hold down piece off and throw it in a box.It's a detriment. Secondly, use Johnson's Paste Wax and rub it in thoroughly. It lasts for a few weeks for me. I agree with you about about the light.

I sure miss our local car shows. Lately I'm stuck on designing cars and aircrafts. My wife will put the pictures in sketch mode in PhotoShop and I'll clean them up in MS 3D paint. I like the '30's, 40's and '50's cars and ones that are unique or one offs. The clean up can take a few days (I'm a nitnoid)

So one reason I haven’t messed with my laser yet even though I’ve had it for nearly two years is I needed to figure out a stand, being busy and trying to learn the ropes of the CNC router the laser just sat on the back burner. Earlier this summer my bbq grill bottom rusted out. I fabricated a new bottom for it to get by while this COVID was so rampant. Last week the igniter quit and I’d had enough of this piecing it together with tape and glue so to speak. Went and got a new grill. My wife asked me what I was going to do with the old grill while we was moving it out of the spot to put the new grill. I said put it on the scrap trailer, ( I have a dedicated trailer that I throw metal scraps on to haul to the metal recycling centers) then it hit me. I unmourned the grill from the stand and had this scrap 1/2” osb already cut to the right size. I have some 1” too that I used for my flooring in my loft but this seems to be plenty heavy enough ( laser doesn’t weigh much) . The spot on the bottom where the lp tank goes is a perfect spot for the 5 gallon bucket of coolant for the C02 laser tube. I’ll probably build a heavier top later with enough room for a work bench spot for the laptop etc but this seems to work pretty well like this for now. Planning to have the laser setup outside of my main shop due to all the fine dust that I haven’t been able to get 100% control of yet from my saws and sanders even though I have dust collection and air filters etc. and I’m assuming the dust and the laser won’t get along with one another to well. So anyway I’m setting it up in my loft above my shop.

Ditto on removing the hold down piece! It is more of a hindrance than a help! Unless the laws have been changed in other countries, the U.S. is the only country that requires that this hold down part has to be added to the saw whether it is manufactured here or overseas. It is supposedly a safety item required by Osha! Anyway we have to use our hands to hold down the material and move it around to cut so the hold down is not needed! This is just my 2 cents worth! Erv

If going that thin, why not just use veneer. just a thought. Carl

Here is one https://www.amazon.com/Magnum-Magnetics-Strong-Flexible-Material/dp/B00HPAB2DW/ref=asc_df_B00HPAB2DW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312393068560&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6925403775924823423&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027978&hvtargid=pla-568877589769&psc=1 but just search on magnetic sheet, measure the table top first

Glad you found the trick to make life easy for you!!!

Beautiful work!

If there’s a will there’s a way. Glad you found it. Well done they look great.

You took a long road to get there but the journey was well worth it. They look very nice.

They may have been a nightmare for you but you did an awesome job. Just don't let anyone else see them. Marg

They look terrific! Nice work.

Too bad it didn't happen. No pictures. So sad.

Thanks for the reply, Frank, I have thought about the closing, "God Bless! Spirithorse" and I hope if enough people read it that way (without punctuation) it's like I'm getting a lot more people praying for me. Believe me, I really need all the prayers I can get for my family's health! God Bless! Spirithorse

I have a suggestion. I use #2/0 and #1 Pike blades. These are made for cutting mild metals like gold, silver, brass, etc. The are sold mostly to jewelers. The thing that makes them so unique for the scroller is that they have very high tooth counts and are perfect for 1/8 and 1/4 BB. #1 has 42 tpi whereas regular scrolling #1 blades are 20 something tpi. The Pike blades give incredible control. For bottom feeders regular blades break easily because they are quite stiff and when feeding them into a small, like #68 drill, hole constant bending causes them to break. Also when bent they take a set and are hard to feed into a small hole. Pike blades are very bendable and seldom break when bottom feeding. I had been using #1 Pegas blades for fret work and had lots of breakage. Although Pegas blades are my go to blade I no longer use them for thin fret work.

Awesome! That is really cool!

I'm assuming it would be the same as the Excalibur for the air tube.. You should be able to remove the air tube cover housing and spin it so the tube goes on the other side if that is a hindrance to you.. Or just use it as is.. you'll eventually get used to it..

I already took the front guard off and just left the hold down in place. This way it does not interfere with me. I have more problem with the air tube being on the left. I'm use to it being on the right, but I presume I will get used to it. Having the ability to lift the arm to change blades or change the blade to a new hole is probably the best part of this saw.

2nd the johnson paste wax!! Use it on all my tool tables. and wow.. it sure helps more than one would think.. I use it on my jointer table, bandsaw table, table saw table.. planer bed.. also like to use it on the saw body and stand.. the sawdust falls right off it and onto the floor much better.. keeping my saw looking much cleaner and unused.. Kinda a bad thing though when the wife comes in to see what I've got done and the saw doesn't even look dusty..

Don't have one of these saws and took the 'hold down' off my saw when I bought it. I just wanted to say that your post did make me smile. You sounded just like a kid at Christmas... Enjoy your new toy

Very cool!! I've never really tried cars and aircraft...but I may soon...LOL

Thats a piecde of art IKE

Hi Kris: What most do not realize is that before you actually can cut this masterpiece you have to make a usable pattern You have it all covered - Looks great - I do see one problem with this though. I didn't convert it, and I surely didn't cut it Thanks for showing us and it is certainly in the right category Fab4

All your cuttings are great!

I made this Hot Rod as an experiment to see if I could use woos with knots. It was a pain to cut and sand, but I like the look of my rat rod.

GTHO Falcon A few other's I have made

I made a set of these for my grandson and my nephew for Christmas gifts. Both were just under 2 at Christmas. I know my grandson loves his set!

Hot Rod 27 T Coupe MDF Air Brushed with Pink Acrylic, Metallic Blue Hubs, and Amber Shellac on the Wheels. The body is 1-1/2 inch thick MDF cut with my scroll saw.

Old Joe, your friend does some amazing work!! I have Dremel with a flex shaft, it is ok but I wanted something a bit nicer/ better. The air powered unit that CharleyL suggested is also available from HF. I have one of those for about 20 years https://www.harborfreight.com/pneumatic-18-in-micro-die-grinder-kit-60244.html It is a bit noisy as is the compressor I was using. So I bought a Rampower hand piece (45,000 RPM) it allows you to reverse direction , great with burrs, and I have the foot pedal speed Controller. Absolutely love it. And if you really want to go nuts you can get a Vortex F5 Ar power carver that spins at 400,000 rpm. It was a Christmas present a couple of years ago. It has a super quiet compressor, Yes my wife spoils me. The higher the speed the more control. the bits don't grab they just cut, it is like writing with a pen. you can see the size difference between the Rampower and the Vortex. The guys who carve gun stocks use the Vortex type tools. A flex shaft like the Foredom, has a lot of torque for heavier stock removal. So it really comes down what you plan on doing. I am a tool junkie.

If the front is OK I would not worry about the back. No one will see it.

Tough dogs are le