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1/4" plywood ,acrylic paint,10/0 brush,4.25"tall x 3.5 wide each letter and takes over 45 minutes to do!!!

My new Trivet with optical illusion effect, and all my trivet projects. Which one do you like more? Video of making trivet Trivet patterns

The original drawing is by Ovid Creasy. I selectively stained the wood with slightly different stains to darken the water. The wood had a natural "flaw" through the center right where I needed it.

Fist project completed on the Pegas. Mostly cut with a Pegas #1 modified geometry blade. Small block letters is not my strong skill, but I think these came out pretty good considering I still need more practice, but much better outcome on the new Pegas then I could do on the old Porter Cable. The Pattern from Steve Good's Scrawlsaw Workshop - Professional Beer Taster. It is going to be a Birthday present for my Son-in-law. The top layer is 5/32" solid core maple plywood over a piece of luan stained a dark walnut with his name cut out at the top and then over a bottom layer of the Solid core Maple plywood. Finished with many coats of lacquer and then permanently mounted in an inxpensive frame I got at Wallmart.

Thanks Smitty for sharing your pattern. I did this in a piece of 1/4" Cherry and finished it with 321. I really like the design and the way it came out. Thanks for looking.

Well it sounds like you went from a BBQ to a smoker now,lol. Keep us posted on your advances!!!

Just a follow up. 1. Although I found the air tube can be remounted to extend out to the right side, I did not leave it there, but put it back on the left side where it remains set in place and does not need to be reset each time the work is relocated and does not interfere with reaching thumb screw that holes the the blade. 2. I also purchased a magnetic mounted goose neck LED light that I mounted on the right side. This light is physically much larger than the little light that is on my Porter Cable but is very bright and creates that shadow of the blade that aides me seeing where the blade is along the pattern line. My depth precetion is compromised as I have monocular vision (I only see out of one eye at a time) and i found I could not determine exactly where the blade was, even with my 5X magnifier LED lamp, with out being able to reference the shadow. 3. As all the comments I received said remove the Hold Down and the plastic dust collector diafram so I decided to take that advice and have done so. Yep, operation and control is much better and the dust and small pieces of wood fall through preventing interference with the movement of the project. I sweep and vacuum the floor between projects anyway so all is good. Thanks for all who offered comments and suggestions, they were all very helpful and appreciated. Here a few pics of the way I have the saw set up and is working for me:

MDF is extremely messy to work with. It creates a lot of dust that is very fine. The dust can be toxic due to the chemicals used to make it.

My grandson saw a photo of something similar and asked for one. That started the ball rolling.

BB plywood 6mm, frame BB plywood 22mm. Ca 550*400mm

Frank, glad you received the saw and so far happy with it. As for suction, one of the first things I did was remove the plastic saw dust catcher under the table that is connected to the shop vac. That is what is causing the suction. I use a Seyco Vac to collect the dust. On the EX 21 just vacuum the floor.

So one reason I haven’t messed with my laser yet even though I’ve had it for nearly two years is I needed to figure out a stand, being busy and trying to learn the ropes of the CNC router the laser just sat on the back burner. Earlier this summer my bbq grill bottom rusted out. I fabricated a new bottom for it to get by while this COVID was so rampant. Last week the igniter quit and I’d had enough of this piecing it together with tape and glue so to speak. Went and got a new grill. My wife asked me what I was going to do with the old grill while we was moving it out of the spot to put the new grill. I said put it on the scrap trailer, ( I have a dedicated trailer that I throw metal scraps on to haul to the metal recycling centers) then it hit me. I unmourned the grill from the stand and had this scrap 1/2” osb already cut to the right size. I have some 1” too that I used for my flooring in my loft but this seems to be plenty heavy enough ( laser doesn’t weigh much) . The spot on the bottom where the lp tank goes is a perfect spot for the 5 gallon bucket of coolant for the C02 laser tube. I’ll probably build a heavier top later with enough room for a work bench spot for the laptop etc but this seems to work pretty well like this for now. Planning to have the laser setup outside of my main shop due to all the fine dust that I haven’t been able to get 100% control of yet from my saws and sanders even though I have dust collection and air filters etc. and I’m assuming the dust and the laser won’t get along with one another to well. So anyway I’m setting it up in my loft above my shop.

well its back to the drawing board for my wizzard pattern. i stack cut 4 of them and i dont think any of them came out .... when i looked at the bottom couple of boards i can see where a LOT of the inside cuts have broken off.....they must have broken off when i made my last cut because iv been checking it every time i go to another hole.... and im haveing trouble getting the tape and pattern off the top....so im pretty sure im going to loose more pieces on the top while i try to take off the plastic ... let alone do any kind of sanding.... I think i made my mastake was by starting my cutting at one edge and going around and then trying to do the middle last.... i proubly should have started in the middle and worked my way out? i printed the pattern out several times, so i still have it with out having to search for it in all my patterns...i'll just have to get more wood for it before i can start it again....and before that id best make one or to things for the craft boxes....thats ok though i should prouble take a break from it before i try it again..... i' ll try to get it apart and see if theres anything i can salvage from it as i take my breaks from baking...speacking of baking id best get to it...i lost half of yesterday due to neck and head pain.....and iv already got pain in my neck and a mild headace...i'll take some more asprine and hope it helps.....spike says iv proubly just over done it this last week....i hope hes right and pray that the botox treatments are starting to not to work anymore....i dont know what id do if the bowtox stops working .. i think thats the last resort and the very thought of having to go through all that pain 24/7 again simply terrifies me....im not sure i can go through that for hours, days weeks and months again...so please add your prayers to mine that this is short lived and the powtox shots will countue to work again....oh well there is asprain to take and bread to to make....so far this day is not starting out very good.

I surprised my next door neighbors with a portrait of their beautiful 4 year old daughter. I think they liked it. The daughter however held it back out to me and said, "You can keep it."

Harvey sometimes comes up with new designs and in the package I received from him yesterday there were 3 new Troll patterns. I just finished cutting 1. Too cute. The patterns are available on my site. This one is "Troll3". For the sharp eyed ones of you out there that get it, see if you can spot the couple of minor modifications I made to it.

I've had some orders for badges lately so I thought I would show therm here as well -- all are framed to 12 x 16 (my own frames) and I used 1/8 through 3/8 on all of them -- mostly #1 and 2/0 modified geometry

I would recommend Flying Dutchmen Ultra reverse or Pegas reverse blades, no need to sand and give you a real nice cut on both side.

Thank you

I clicked the headline and held an empty glass under the corner of the screen, expecting cold beer. Just got off the mower and that would have been just the ticket! Instead, I got to see Tony has taken my position and now has a good looking plaque to prove it.

should have stack cut this. That way tony could use one for a stencil to make a tee shirt with fabric paint in a spray can. You did real good on this one!!!! Thanks for showing!!!

quality project!!!

Nice score. If you are just going to use it to just cut down stock almost any blade will do. If you seriously plan do a lot of finish work like cutting molding or making miters for picture frames you really need a blade made specifically for a sliding miter saw. It has to do with the angle of the teeth. You also want a blade with more vs less teeth to get a nice clean edge. Pay the extra and get a carbide or at least carbide tipped blade. I have this blade on mine and I really like it. https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ka12106/

I recently needed a new blade for my miter saw and I got the Mikita 80 tooth blade and it's super nice, it gives me great cuts and didn't break the bank. https://www.amazon.com/Makita-93681-10-Inch-Polished-Mitersaw/dp/B000MQOOGI/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=makita+miter+saw+blade&qid=1597594530&sr=8-1

Thank you

MDF cuts like butter but it is incredibly dusty and in my opinion only good for pieces that are going to be painted. Most of us prefer to work with 'wood' as it looks good without 'paint'. I must admit the only time I use mdf is if I'm doing a plaque with my router as it is easier than wood to carve.

You are correct. Two screws hold the air hose and it can be rotated easily to the right side. I did this but decided to put it back on the left side as it intefered with releasing the blade to reposition the work. While on the left side it remains where it is set without needing to be repositioned each time.

That looks awesome,well done Really nice cutting,I like the burning you do for a frame it just finishes it off nice.

Beautiful and very elegant. They will love it. Marg

Back to where you started. Love them, always did. Marg

Very beautiful Innar.

Those are awesome Kevin.

Real fine cutting Brent. Beautiful.

WOW, you are one busy scroller! Nice work.

Beautiful cutting on a great piece of wood.

My wife restores stained glass windows. Had one that needed a frame added. I used mortise & tendon joints. Inlayed leaves on sides out of green popular. Main frame is red oak. Arm-R-Seal finish.

I finished the shutter order for a lady today. What a job! She wanted each side 14 1/2" wide and 26" tall...My saw is a 16"... I did learn some new tricks though. First I had to drag the saw out in the middle of the shop to have room around it. Then I designed the shutters from a shelf bracket I found on line. Went to Rapid Resizer and blew it up to the measurements and printed the 6 page pattern. I figured if I could get one to come out right I would flip it over and use it as a templet. Not having a jointer and planer, I had a cabinet maker friend make me two blanks with 1 x 8s edge glued. Then came the trouble. I did the layout and double checked the measurements before cutting, thank God, to find the pattern was 1/4" off one way and almost 3/8" off in another spot! Back to the computer. Checked the input numbers and printed it on plain paper...still off. So I increased the measurements a little and printed . The trouble spots were now OK...but a different spot was not!! At this point I went out and check all the measurements of the 1/4" plywood trial I did. Close enough to use as a template and I could "wing it"...LOL. I also found out I really needed three hands... So I took an art brush, dropped it through the entry hole, used it to line up the blade slot in the table. and held the large blank with a 4" quick clamp. Then I removed the brush and could top feed the whole thing and tighten the bottom blade clamp, remove the quick clamp and cut ! Then repeat for the next hole! Kind of crazy...but it worked slick. Glad to be done with this project! She is going to prime and paint them to go with her kitchen...so I don't have to finish them!! Two things came out of this project, besides a learning experience. 1. I got that big cutout, between the lighthouse and the side frame, out almost intact today. I checked it and I can cut a puzzle dog from the scrap piece and sell it!! Bad news is I didn't think of it yesterday and cut that piece into smaller pieces getting it out. 2. This afternoon as I was working on it the lady calls me. It seems she does fundraising for local cancer victims. She wants me to come up with a trinket box to put a picture in the lid and a CUBS logo on it. It will be filled with the money she's raising for a lady with breast cancer who will be going through chemo in a month or two after a Mastectomy. So I get a triple play for this project! And probably a chance to be involved for other cancer patients!

Thanks Marg! I'm half afraid someone else will want some! In 2 weeks I'm showing my work at the fair. The customer is going to paint them and give them back for the week so I can display them with the rest of my work.

Red Green would have made a duct tape table..

Too bad it didn't happen. No pictures. So sad.

Such patterns (auto, moto, technical items) are quite difficult to make, it needs more accuracy and precision. I think I coped with this task, what do you think? Video of making Engine Engine pattern

I have had the Pegas for several months and I like it better every day. Two bits of advice: take the work hold down piece off and throw it in a box.It's a detriment. Secondly, use Johnson's Paste Wax and rub it in thoroughly. It lasts for a few weeks for me. I agree with you about about the light.

Just more things to go wrong with new fangled toys! Enjoy!!!

Always wanted to try my hand at the lathe so I bought a Laguna 1216 a week ago. As soon as I finish the Apostle clock I'm working on I'm going to try my hand at bowls and pens on the lathe. I will post pictures of the clock when I'm done with it. Heres a picture of it almost done. Just have the 3 towers on top and some trim to put on it and its done.

If I was looking to purchase a new scroll saw I would look at the Hawk or the Hegner. My Hawk is 27 years old and still humming along. I know people who have both and they are old just like mine and still going strong. I also have an Excalibur that is about 8 years old. I would not buy another one. Yes, they are expensive, either one is worth it. I would say, just save up until you can afford one or the other. Just my 2C worth.

I'm in the same boat. Just started a new project that has a bunch of words in about 3/4 " high simple block font and after only two letters I'm almost ready to scrap the project. I will probably keep at it but it will most likely wind up in the circular file. I'll consider it necessary practice.

Really nice job of cutting! I'm wondering what size it is and what thickness of wood.

This is from Ray @ SeyCO - it works great and I use it regularly when I have blade slippage in my clamps. 1. Use a piece of scrap - 3" x 2" x 3/8". Drill 7/32" holes, about an inch apart, on the center line of the board. 2. Screw the setscrew and thumb screw into the board until the ends are just flush with the other side of the board. 3. Lay a piece of 220 grit sand paper on a perfectly flat surface. Place the board on the sandpaper with the screw ends down. 4. Rub the board around on the sand paper until the screw ends are shiny and any nicks or dents are removed. Remove the screws from the board and replace them in the saw. Pay attention to the alignment. I use feeler gauges to set the setscrew 1mm proud of the left side of the blade gap, in the clamp. Do that on both upper and lower clamps. I do this as part of my semi annual maintenance drill. Even when I haven't been having slippage in the clamps. I did this on my old DW788, on the OEM clamps on my EX-21 and I do it on the Pegas clamps. Note - The thumbscrews from the DW788, The Excalibur saws, and the Pegas clamps are interchangeable. The setscrews are, also, interchageable. but the Dewalt and Excalibur setscrews are not long enough for the locking nut that Pegas uses. I do not know about the new versions of the Excalibur design - King, Axeminister, Seyco, or even the new Excaliburs. Seyco sells the setscrews and tips for the thumbscrews as sets. The thumbscrew tips fit the Dewalt and Excaliber thumbscrews, but I haven't tried them in the Pegas thumbscrews.