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1/4" plywood ,acrylic paint,10/0 brush,4.25"tall x 3.5 wide letters for the lady at the store.

Hi all This took a life time to cut so many holes... Was worth it in the end though I think it turned out really good. Time was about 12-15hrs

18/4 " BBPLY 7.5 X 10 "

Several on Deviant art have done this drawing of John Lennon. I decided to try cutting it. Whoever did the original drawing did a great job. I liked the way it came out. It was pretty simple.

1/4" plywood ,acrylic paint,10/0 brush,4.25"tall x 3.5 wide each letter and takes over 45 minutes to do!!!

I cut this out last December. I had to put my touch on it.

Pattern by Travis. cut from unusual 1/8" BB. I purchased this BB several weeks ago from Paxton Lumber. I can't use a telephone so my daughter ordered it for me based on instructions I had written down. We picked it up. I remained in the vehicle while it was loaded into the back. I did not see it until arriving home. It is beautiful but surprise, it has a plastic laminate on both sides. They had cut the 5X5 sheets in half so I could not return. It's ok though. The stuff is beautiful. Went back this week and picked up the regular BB. Anyway, after all that explanation, I did cut Travis's pattern from the coated BB. Nice thing, it requires no finishing. Project is about 10 inches wide, I think. #1 Pike blade. Cut without a backer. No fuzzies on the back due to the coating. Whew, that's all folks. Oh yeah, I know the grain should run horizontal but this was the size of scrap that I had.

Hello friends, I show you this work that I did yesterday. I hope you like the idea. Thank you in advance for your comments. Greetings from Puebla, Mexico.

enjoy your new saw

So - someone gave me a bed headboard made out of solid oak. Okay, thanks. Then - I have a source for WALNUT BURL, so, I just did some squaring to see what I could get out of one of the bigger pieces of it. Pretty nice stuff. So - now a friend who loves guitars like I do - is having his 64th birthday - what a perfect way to use these two woods. So - I finally got to use a blade bigger than a 2/0 - and - what a JOY !!!! I used a Pegas #3. The Oak Headboard ended up being just shy of 3/4" , and I cut the WALNUT BURL into a couple slices of 5/8". I think I could have made the backing a bit larger - but - it has about 3/16" all the way around the walnut. So, it came out fine. It's pretty darned heavy though. So - here's a picture or two of the process, and, again thanks to Steve Good for the pattern that Old Joe and I used. If anyone wants some of this walnut burl - let me know - as you can see from the pictures it's pretty thick - and - it's in various sizes. You would have to pay for the piece (which I think is DIRT CHEAP at 15 bucks a piece) and shipping. But - I don't mind boxing it up in a used amazon box and putting it in the mail for you guys. You are such great help to my new hobby.

I was finally able to do some scrolling other than intarsia. My Uncle is a big fan so made one for him. Pattern is by H. Botas. Cut in 1/8" baltic birch 8 x 10. I still have to make the frame

I use it for some toys and shop projects. MDF produces some very fine dust and paints very well. It is not strong enough for some things, but neither are some woods. The dust is a problem, but not any more than the dust I get from sanding wood. MDF is heavy. I see lots of people making all sorts of claims about MDF's health hazards, but I can't find any authoritative source that says it is any more hazardous than wood. Wood is full of toxins and has naturally occurring formaldehyde. This car body is made from MDF. The paint is the most hazardous part.

This one is not real sporty, but it is different—everything except the axles. While making these toys, I discovered that it is easier and quicker for me to cut wheels on the scroll saw than using hole saws.

Here's my Addition

Fist project completed on the Pegas. Mostly cut with a Pegas #1 modified geometry blade. Small block letters is not my strong skill, but I think these came out pretty good considering I still need more practice, but much better outcome on the new Pegas then I could do on the old Porter Cable. The Pattern from Steve Good's Scrawlsaw Workshop - Professional Beer Taster. It is going to be a Birthday present for my Son-in-law. The top layer is 5/32" solid core maple plywood over a piece of luan stained a dark walnut with his name cut out at the top and then over a bottom layer of the Solid core Maple plywood. Finished with many coats of lacquer and then permanently mounted in an inxpensive frame I got at Wallmart.

Those are AWESOME!!!! Do you still have the plans for them, or know if they're available online?

I made this Norm Marshall car years ago and kept all these years. I made a lot of them. I don't remember if I used a scroll saw when I made these, but I did have one. A cast iron AMT brand scroll saw I no longer own, but it is still being used. I gave it o a friend after I bought my EX21. How long ago did I make these? Pretty close to forty years ago.

Here's a few of mine that I've done over the years.

Bare with me on this. The top photo is an F-16 as we were coming home. It is a unit that a mentor of mine was in during WWII. The bottom photo is a cut I made of his aircraft from the same unit, just 70 years later. The middle photo is one I made for my workcenter that operates F-16’s. I was torn which one to post because the P-51 is an awesome aircraft that changed the tide of the war and I am honored to know this gentleman, but yet I worked on or around for close to 30 years. Now one can see my problem? That is why I have both.

Here's something from a few years ago.

GTHO Falcon A few other's I have made

I made a set of these for my grandson and my nephew for Christmas gifts. Both were just under 2 at Christmas. I know my grandson loves his set!

My son in law has one just like this

The Deuce Coupe Version.

Hot Rod 27 T Coupe MDF Air Brushed with Pink Acrylic, Metallic Blue Hubs, and Amber Shellac on the Wheels. The body is 1-1/2 inch thick MDF cut with my scroll saw.

How about a lawnmower...LOL? It has wheels! I did this a month or two ago for a local business.

Well...I did Santa's Pickup earlier this year. I made and sold a 57 Chevy for a car show in March...if I can find the picture..LOL.

Ohhh Boy... I'm looking forward to this one.. Only thing is.. I need to pick one or maybe a few of my car projects since I have over 60 car clocks listed on various websites not to mention puzzles, portraits and ornaments.. I'm going to have to think about what ones have the best story to go along with them.. I guess since you said your first car was a 83 Camaro.. I'll start with one of those, LOL.. I'll think about something personal and post it along with a story behind it I suppose..

My new 21" Pegas Scroll Saw with Stand arrived yeasterday around 2PM and I had the stand assembled and the saw mounted and operating by about 3:30PM. My first impression was WOW this saw is great, well made including even the solid stand. Materialwise fit and finish is top of the line. Operationalwise, it runs smooth with a nice steady blade movement making cutting control much easier. I imediately jumped on a new, relatively simple project, cutting 1/4" solid core Maple Plywood. However the pattern does includes a number of words in about 3/4" high block font, resulting in a lot of really little areas to be cut out (Not my strong skill.). Well to my amazement, I'm doing a fairly good job with these letters on this saw...I'm happy. I have completed almost all of the letters, with only a few to finish, using a #1 Pegas Modified Geometry blade without breaking any yet. Again I'm happy. I have two comments that might be subjects for some suggestions or tips. 1. The Porter Cable saw I was using had a small very bright LED light on a goose neck that I could shine directly on the blade. For the price of the Pegas, I'm disapointed they did not include this feature. Even Though I do use a 5X lighted magnifying lamp, I liked the little spot light that when pointed on the blade a shadow was created that made it easy to see just where the blade was along the pattern line. My old eyes need all the help they can get. 2. The table work surface is smooth as the preverbial "babys behind". However, it is so smooth it seems to create a slight suction betwen the table and the wood, making it slightly difficult to move the wood smoothly. This is not being caused by the work hold down which I have set close but not touching the wood. I actually had to apply a coating of Pledge Furniture Polish to help it slide easier. Would like someting more permanently slipery but do not want to use any thing that would transfer to the wood. No work from this saw to brag about yet, but it won't be too long before this little project is finished and I can post a pic. All you Pegas Saw operators, please feel free to offer any suggestion , tips, comments, etc. Looking for anything that makes using this saw even easier/better. Thanks

well its back to the drawing board for my wizzard pattern. i stack cut 4 of them and i dont think any of them came out .... when i looked at the bottom couple of boards i can see where a LOT of the inside cuts have broken off.....they must have broken off when i made my last cut because iv been checking it every time i go to another hole.... and im haveing trouble getting the tape and pattern off the top....so im pretty sure im going to loose more pieces on the top while i try to take off the plastic ... let alone do any kind of sanding.... I think i made my mastake was by starting my cutting at one edge and going around and then trying to do the middle last.... i proubly should have started in the middle and worked my way out? i printed the pattern out several times, so i still have it with out having to search for it in all my patterns...i'll just have to get more wood for it before i can start it again....and before that id best make one or to things for the craft boxes....thats ok though i should prouble take a break from it before i try it again..... i' ll try to get it apart and see if theres anything i can salvage from it as i take my breaks from baking...speacking of baking id best get to it...i lost half of yesterday due to neck and head pain.....and iv already got pain in my neck and a mild headace...i'll take some more asprine and hope it helps.....spike says iv proubly just over done it this last week....i hope hes right and pray that the botox treatments are starting to not to work anymore....i dont know what id do if the bowtox stops working .. i think thats the last resort and the very thought of having to go through all that pain 24/7 again simply terrifies me....im not sure i can go through that for hours, days weeks and months again...so please add your prayers to mine that this is short lived and the powtox shots will countue to work again....oh well there is asprain to take and bread to to make....so far this day is not starting out very good.

First I must give a big shout out and thank you to Foxfold for graciously sharing her Pattern. I modified the pattern slightly to format it to fit a standard 8x10 photograph frame. This was my first attempt at using 1/8" thk Baltic Birch plywood. Top and bottom layer is the same 1/8" thk BB plywood. The bottom layer is painted Black. Not wanting to copy Foxfold's project eactly, I decided to attempt to make the sene a little more dramatic by creating a moonlit sky. I actualy bleached the area for the moon and then attempted to fade the sky out to a darker edges using a micture of stain colors from natural to ebony. I think the effect came out fairly nice. The BB Plywood cut OK but the finished surface wood is quite stringy (for lack of a better word) and does not produce as clean a cut or sand up as nice as the Columbia Forest 5/32 and 1/4 purebond 12" X19" plywood project panels I have been using which I get shipped to my home from Home Depot. I purchased some 1/4 BB also and will have to give it a try. However, I'm leaning towards the Idea of using the BB mostly for backers. A better pic is needed. Needed to take the pic with natural light but it has been raining like crazy all day. .

The only suggestion that I can make at this point, since just about everything else has been covered, would be to attach your magnifier light to something other than your saw. The vibration, no matter how slight, is transferred to the light and whether you realize it or not, it effects your view through the lens. I have my saws sitting one next to my bench and the other up against the shop wall. One light is attached to my bench, and the other is clamped to the vertical stud of the wall. Neither light is in contact with my saws so they never get the vibration transfer. It really does help. Best of luck with your new saw. I knew you would love it. Now, GO MAKE SOMETHING and show us.

Bob, I have been trying for years to tell people that MDF is no more dangerous than timber. I have used it for many many toys and being a cabinet maker, it is my go to sheet material for cabinets, veneered and laminated.

I didn't know you were a painter also. Came out great!

Good looking piece there Kevin.

Now that's different. Nice.

well done, looks great, a really different view of him. Thanks for showing it to us. jim

Thanks Smitty for sharing your pattern. I did this in a piece of 1/4" Cherry and finished it with 321. I really like the design and the way it came out. Thanks for looking.

Pissing people off is a piece of cake but making them happy is another story. I try to make friends and keep them but nothing works out ??? Someone said the reason i don't have a girl friend is in try to hard. Thank you Melanie!!!

I took some time this afternoon to cut this US ARMY Veteran wall decoration. It was cut from 1/4” Oak with #1 Pegas blades. This is a naked photo I’m not sure what I want to finish it with. So I took 4 larger scraps and did one each Watco Natural, Satin Lacquer, Shellac, Semi-gloss Poly. I’ll see if anything looks good in the morning.

Just a follow up. 1. Although I found the air tube can be remounted to extend out to the right side, I did not leave it there, but put it back on the left side where it remains set in place and does not need to be reset each time the work is relocated and does not interfere with reaching thumb screw that holes the the blade. 2. I also purchased a magnetic mounted goose neck LED light that I mounted on the right side. This light is physically much larger than the little light that is on my Porter Cable but is very bright and creates that shadow of the blade that aides me seeing where the blade is along the pattern line. My depth precetion is compromised as I have monocular vision (I only see out of one eye at a time) and i found I could not determine exactly where the blade was, even with my 5X magnifier LED lamp, with out being able to reference the shadow. 3. As all the comments I received said remove the Hold Down and the plastic dust collector diafram so I decided to take that advice and have done so. Yep, operation and control is much better and the dust and small pieces of wood fall through preventing interference with the movement of the project. I sweep and vacuum the floor between projects anyway so all is good. Thanks for all who offered comments and suggestions, they were all very helpful and appreciated. Here a few pics of the way I have the saw set up and is working for me:

@FrankEV I agree, trash the hold down piece, both top and bottom. The bottom one is some kind of safety thing. Then remove the diaphragm for the vacuum from the bottom of the table, it tends to get clogged if you use it. I too loved the goose neck LED light on the Porter Cable saw, and I still am sorely disappointed in the high dollar saws that think that less than $5 per unit is prohibitive. I put the air tube on the right side like you are talking about, but I just looped it around and changed out the nozzle end too. Put a magnetic sheet on the table top, even if it does not stick as it should, use double sided tape to hold it down. Slicker than owl sh*t and no waxing to worry about - pic attached.

Don't have one of these saws and took the 'hold down' off my saw when I bought it. I just wanted to say that your post did make me smile. You sounded just like a kid at Christmas... Enjoy your new toy

Very cool!! I've never really tried cars and aircraft...but I may soon...LOL

They are absolute beauties. Not just the cars, but the cutting is brilliant.

Here is a BBQ plaque that I cut from 1/2" maple. The designer is Keith Fenton from Sheila Landry Designs.

Few BBQ Scrapers to get rid of the wire scrapers.

Well, I'd rather *eat* BBQ than scroll it, but every good BBQ needs a couple of things: dragon coasters, paper towels, a table, and a hammock to relax in during/afterwards. And for me....well...there's always books if I'm not scrollin'. Flynn seems to make it into a lot of photos. He's Dane/Bloodhound mix. As for grub...well, I'm a burger-n-brats kind of guy, leaning more towards the brats side of the grill. Found an amazing recipe for bacon-wrapped brats....basically, you cook the brats, then slice em open like a hot dog bun (keep the ends closed), jam them full of spicy mustard and shredded cheddar cheese, then use the universal kitchen duct tape (ie, bacon) to wrap them and keep them closed. Throw back in the oven for an amount of temp and time I couldn't begin to tell you off the top of my head (I've burned cold cereal, so I'm generally only allowed in the kitchen during cleanup). Pure frikkin bliss. (recipes vary, but this'll give you an idea) https://www.stockpilingmoms.com/bacon-wrapped-cheese-stuffed-brats/

The holy trinity of BBQ