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I experimented with cutting Plexiglas. I first time I tried I sandwiched the Plexiglas between two sheets of 3/16" plywood. It cut very successfully. The ones shown here were cut without the plywood sandwich. I removed the top protective layer from the Plexiglas and mounted the pattern directly to the plastic with 3M 77. I kept the bottom side covered to prevent scratching from sliding on the table. Cutting was done slow speed with a 2/0 Pmg blade. Cutting was clean with no melting or sticking to the blade. Pattern was removed with a bit of mineral spirits. Will use as stocking stuffer for great grandson.

Just finished this one up.....12.750" x 12.750".....1/2" sanded plywood back....1x2 frame stained Kona......font is even Fall like it's called "Fall in Autumn" ........comments always appreciated. God Bless Dan

FINALLY DONE. Lots of stuff going on .. not able to work in the garage too much lately - and - finally got this one done. I really like the piece of burl walnut I put it on - came from that source I have here - he thinks I'm using it for firewood, I think. hahahahaha And that Maple - that used to be part of a HEADBOARD for a Queen Bed someone was giving away. Now ---- it's a clock. hahahahaha .. I love this scroll saw stuff! I used a #1 NIQUA (Flying Dutchman) - and a 2/0 Pegas on some of it. Pattern is in the library - but - I would do a few things different. The stripes on the back - very delicate - I would stop them before they get to the top of the trunk under the spoiler. And I made a few changes on the fly near the headlights and things. I think it came out ok. The pattern was made from a picture I took of my son's car.

Sue May NW1902 Christmas Tree Wreath Pattern. Believe it or not I did not see the little trees untill I started to cut the pattern. I used 1/2" sanded ply for the top and 1/4" BB ply for the backer. This seemed to be a very simple project but took way too much time to complete. The cut was relatively simple and repetative, but when cutting the 1/2" ply I cut out the middle before doubble stick tapeing the backer to it, so I had to do the middle cut out twice. All cutting was done with Pegas #1 spiral blades except the small stars on top of each tree for which I used a Pegas #1 MGT. to get pointer stars.. Then I decided to paint the trees green and the backer that shows behind the trees red. That was easy, until when overlayed, the red was vissable all around the edges both inside and outside which ment I now had to hand paint all the exposed edges of the backer green. I also painted all the stars gold, but the craft paint did not cover the green sparay paint very well reguiring multiple coats and my hands are not to steady these days. I'm Not quite finished yet. I had the bright idea (no pun intended) to add mini LED lights through holes in the backer. I found a cheap 100 bulb string of the mini LED's in Big LOts. Searching through my numbered drill set I finally found the correct size bit that would hold the light in place with out glue. All is good except there is way too much wire bunched up behind the wreath. As they say: Live and learn. Not, IMHO, the best project to undertake and wouldn't do it again. I'll hang it in my house for the holidays but not sure is it will be a keepsake. And I did not mention that it takes 3 AAA batteries that will need to be replaced regularly if left on for any length of time..... Unlit Lit

I got the idea for this in the thread: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/40448-steve-good-ornaments/ The ornament design is Steve Good's. I purchased several of these patterns from Steve and, today, I made a prototype. The mask is held in place with Velcro Dots. Margaret likes the prototype which means that I can go ahead and make about 20 more of these.

My grandkids took their peddle plane I made for them to the Airshow.

A friend is retiring and loves eagles, I decided to try on of Grampa’s patterns the eagle to give to her. But I wanted to add a clock to it. This is what I ended up with, I’m pretty happy with it. thank you grampa for the pattern.

Don't fret Frank. I doubt what I use is all BB ply but my source is my husbands wood yard, I pick the best pieces and can do stuff like this with it quite easily. I don't think they turned out too badly. I have however had problems with 3mm BB ply that cost me an arm and a leg from a 'specialist' shop.

Very nice job of cutting and also a nice base.

I'm impressed with that customer service. Sounds like a great company to do business with. You are so lucky to have them. Ben

I've been meaning to try this.. well years ago I did try and failed.. Local hardware gave me some scraps.. actually was pretty big scraps which would be great for scrolling on.. Anyway I had very little no how of scrolling wood at that time and figuring what blade to use etc.. I melted he blade to the plastic and then it started bouncing up and down and broke the plastic.. Scared the crap out of me and I haven't touched it since.. Now that I'm a little smarter.. a #7 ultra rev. blade on 1/8" plastic at high speed was probably not the best idea, If I fail again... I have a back-up plan.. The laser cuts the stuff like butter and leaves a very smooth edge.. They say the smell is horrendous though, LOL

Simple but terrific. Well done. Marg

WOW! Very nice Brenda...on both statements...! I would never be steady enough to write those names by hand! I've been to a couple of the clubs several times. One in Chicago and in Miami...almost 40 years ago LOL.

First project after my knee replacement. Can't sit for more than an hour at a time

Some very nice work you've done!

I am just now cutting Christmas ornaments from 3/16" cheap underlayment plywood. Worst you can get. Using 2/0 P mg and get no bottom tear-out.

I'm by no means an expert, but from what I undersatnd there is BB ply and there is BB ply, and the two may not be the same quality. I'm not sure your sourse may be the quality that you may want to be using. I've been using BB Ply that come in 12"X24" panels without any cutting backer and I have not experienced any tear out top or bottom. I do get a lot of fuzzies, but between the sanding mop you reccomended and a small butane torch, I'm able to get rid of them after a cut. I do sand both sides of my panels before cutting. This mainly helps with strand pull out when removing the film (clear shelving liner I get from Walmart) that I use under the pattern. Also, after drilling the blade holes, I debur each hole on the backside with a dremel round head carving bit. Makes installing the blade much eaiser and eliminates blade causing tearout at the hole. Just some thoughts from this newbie.

Made door hamging Pumpkins for the naeighbors on each side of me with their names in them, Then made a "Happy Fall Y'all" sign for the front of my house.

I don't normally work with plywood and was wondering if this is a good plywood to use and also is the price fair. It does come with free shipping. Or I can actually go pick it up as a Woodcraft store is only about 15,20 min from me. Baltic Birch Plywood 9mm-3/8" x 24" x 30" $13.99 ea I need 3 for a some projects I'll be working on. It's from Woodcraft

I've been getting some tear out cutting portraits in 1/4" baltic ply so I thought I would ask the experts on advice. What blades are your favorites? Do you use any kind of top or backer board? I've been using FD #1 reverse on my Dewalt. Any tips or tricks are greatly appreciated. Cutting most of a portrait just to have a piece break off is killing me.

Thanks for the replies. I'm a little smarter now thanks to you guys.

When I got my EX21 I put a piece of wood against the back of the blade. With the saw running I adjusted it until the wood stopped moving by being hit by the blade. Again not sure if you can adjust yours.

You're not dreaming, yes my other saw had a bushing that was worn. Tony fixed it and that saw is now in his workshop. Me ?? I was impatient and bought myself a new one. The problem that they both have is that the tiny metal pin that keeps the quick tensioner attached to the front of the arm secure does vibrate loose, although the saw feels really smooth to me.

Yes, there are a few lumber yards in my area. I'll check it out thanks.

Do you have any lumber shops around? Not big box. The cost for a 5 ' x 5 - 9mm BB is $29.95 at my local shop CDN $, So that would be about $25 US. You would get the 3 pieces you require plus one extra and 2 12x30. You may have to pay to to have cut down so it fits in your car. My shop cost $1 per cut after first.

On all scroll saws the blade moves front to back a bit but some saws more than others depending on the type of saw design. There are others in the Village that can it more succinctly.

Seems OK to me. I have never bought 3/8" so don't know how to compare prices. I have purchased 1/8" and 1/4" from woodvraft but no longer do so because of distance, about 45 minutes on the interstate. I hate it but did just renew my driver's license and can now drive until I'm 87. Whoopee!

I'm ordering a 2 pak today.

Very nicely done, I also love doing cars.

Yowza! It's still a great piece - just as another option, would color cellophane with a single bulb behind them work?

very nice job

Looks good! I made another ghost and butterfly yesterday for a guy at work. I told him where to buy the LED base and if he bought the two pack and gave me one, I would make him the ghost and butterfly for free. I may have to try cutting one without the wood sandwich and see what happens.

Oooh, Nice !! Must admit I had to google 'scat pack'

I like that a lot. Well done it looks great.

Thanks for all the advice. I'm using the normal 1/4" BB from Home Depot. Looks like standard 5 ply to me. I'll have to try the zero clearance card and maybe just change out my blades more often. I'm bad at using a dull blade.

Do a Google search for planeing thin wood. I have also have the Dewalt 735 and have exploded a few pieces of thin wood. Never stand in line with the feed because you will have wood being kicked out. you can make jigs etc. to hold the wood. The grain direction is also critical. I use a great deal of thin woods and now own a Supermax 19-38 drum sander. I re-saw and then sand to dimension. I have also had to replace the internal plastic chute that was shattered by one of my thin wood adventures. I usually don't go below 1/4 in the planer. These videos use double sided tape , CA glue or hot glue.

It's not lasered Gary, I did it with my pyrography pen As for the middle picture, Well, maybe 50yrs ago when I worked at the Playboy perhaps.

Good to hear that Brenda. Good service from Axi as well.

Decided to make a Halloween lamp this year, and came up with the lamp below. Saw where Steve Good had used a flame effect led bulb in a project and liked the idea a lot, so I got one for this project. The flickering light from this bulb really makes the lamp interesting. The image of the cat is downloaded from the internet. Cut from 1/4" BB, with a frosted mylar sheet for the background. Spray painted black. About 6" wide and 8" high and 3" deep. I don't know why the light from the bulb is yellow, in real life it is all pumpkin orange, like the color in the bats. Guess using a phone to take pictures is iffy. Tom

I have been cutting 1/4" Baltic Birch for 15 years now and the only blade I use is the Flying Dutchman Puzzle Blade! It has no reverse teeth. Sometimes I will clean up the bottom edge with a fine 3 M sanding disk on a lathe or drill press. Brian

I cut mainly with ¼" ply as I get it for free. I now have some 3mm ply and I'm trying that. But in answer to your question, I personally use #3 Niqua/FD reverse on everything I cut and never had a problem with tear out.

I always use a backer for support and help eliminate the fuzzy from the back. I usually use spiral blades but the same applies to both types.

I would recommend FDUR #1 and also thePegas MGT #1 R

Yep, read the manual find out the minimum thickness. I think on my Delta its something like 3/8". When I plane under the minimum, I use a sled to raise and carry the stock through. And as already mentioned, cut with the grain.

Not really familiar with the Dewalt planers. One thing I have found is paying close attention to the grain direction. If the grain direction changes in the board, instead of cutting with the grain you start going against the grain. This will cause chip out and a few other things too. Another thing to try would be to mount the maple on a separate board and use it as a sled. I attach mine with double sided tape and it works great . Taking lighter cuts may also help. Maybe others will chime in on this for you also. Best of luck with your issue and getting it resolved. Please keep us posted.

Just to let everyone know, Pegas is backordered on many items. The saw is now in stock, but the stand will not be available until January.

Axminster has just rung me and said, because I've not had the saw that long and because the 'pin' doesn't come as a 'single' item, they are sending me a replacement 'unit'.... A new tension lever + pin, free of charge. Now isn't that a lovely, refreshing gesture, great customer service. !!!

Here are my 2.

I am not into Halloween, so I don't make many Halloween projects. This is a project completed in 2014.