Leaderboard

I wanted to eat up some time of idleness and enjoy doing it! From start to finish the horse I knew was not going to go together right. To much pushing makes the blade curve in hard wood.so I just glued it together and put on a corian block. The plaque was a dream to cut. 3 _1/8" pieces of wood was what it consisted of. Soft wood.6"x10.75"

Cut this Steve Good pattern for my wife to take to the office. Apparently, mid-October is way too soon to bring Christmas decorations in. LOL 1/4" bbply, Pegas #1MG blades. Backer/posts stained Minwax Provincial, pattern/numbers are Minwax Natural. I ended up scrolling all of the holes, even the peg holes, cutting ON the line instead of just skirting inside it. My drill bits could use some sharpening or replacing, the 1/4 for some reason tends to chew up the backside of the project, unless its heavy lumber. Worked out just fine that way, the 1/4" oak dowel was a snug fit with no need for any extra sanding.

I had this idea last year in December, unfortunately it was too late for Christmas calendar, you dont even imagine how I was waiting to make this project and finally time is came! I think it is my Best Christmas scroll saw pattern: - this pattern consist of 25 small Christmas ornaments, so You can make multi-layered calendar - or just separate Christmas tree toys or decorations - finished project is great present for kids before Christmas - for marking dates or counting days till Christmas by hanging ornaments - any scroller will be happy to get high quality and detailed pattern like this one All ornaments made at one cute style, size of project is 12 x 16,5 inches, recommended wood thickness 1/8 inch Watch the the video of making Christmas calendar Christmas calendar pattern

I experimented with cutting Plexiglas. I first time I tried I sandwiched the Plexiglas between two sheets of 3/16" plywood. It cut very successfully. The ones shown here were cut without the plywood sandwich. I removed the top protective layer from the Plexiglas and mounted the pattern directly to the plastic with 3M 77. I kept the bottom side covered to prevent scratching from sliding on the table. Cutting was done slow speed with a 2/0 Pmg blade. Cutting was clean with no melting or sticking to the blade. Pattern was removed with a bit of mineral spirits. Will use as stocking stuffer for great grandson.

Yes a solid foundation will make for less vibration. Mine is on the factory frame setting on concrete floor. No vibration.

The stand you use, regardless of the saw mounted on it, has to be rigid and firmly on the ground. As far as saws go, if you are starting with a harbor freight, save your money and move up the line when you are ready. Delta/dewalt are lower priced saws, or save up and get the pegas saw and never go back. (pegas is new excaliber type saw)

I'm holding you to that Ray!

Sue May NW1902 Christmas Tree Wreath Pattern. Believe it or not I did not see the little trees untill I started to cut the pattern. I used 1/2" sanded ply for the top and 1/4" BB ply for the backer. This seemed to be a very simple project but took way too much time to complete. The cut was relatively simple and repetative, but when cutting the 1/2" ply I cut out the middle before doubble stick tapeing the backer to it, so I had to do the middle cut out twice. All cutting was done with Pegas #1 spiral blades except the small stars on top of each tree for which I used a Pegas #1 MGT. to get pointer stars.. Then I decided to paint the trees green and the backer that shows behind the trees red. That was easy, until when overlayed, the red was vissable all around the edges both inside and outside which ment I now had to hand paint all the exposed edges of the backer green. I also painted all the stars gold, but the craft paint did not cover the green sparay paint very well reguiring multiple coats and my hands are not to steady these days. I'm Not quite finished yet. I had the bright idea (no pun intended) to add mini LED lights through holes in the backer. I found a cheap 100 bulb string of the mini LED's in Big LOts. Searching through my numbered drill set I finally found the correct size bit that would hold the light in place with out glue. All is good except there is way too much wire bunched up behind the wreath. As they say: Live and learn. Not, IMHO, the best project to undertake and wouldn't do it again. I'll hang it in my house for the holidays but not sure is it will be a keepsake. And I did not mention that it takes 3 AAA batteries that will need to be replaced regularly if left on for any length of time..... Unlit Lit

I want to cut a few ornaments from Steve Goode pattern and I was wondering what sequence to use to make them. http://www.stevedgood.com/3dintorns.pdf The ornaments are a compound cut with a letter in them. I want to fill the letter with a glitter epoxy. My question is should I cut the letter first and fill with epoxy then cut the ornament or should I cut the entire ornament and fill the letter then. Thanks

Just finished this one up.....12.750" x 12.750".....1/2" sanded plywood back....1x2 frame stained Kona......font is even Fall like it's called "Fall in Autumn" ........comments always appreciated. God Bless Dan

FINALLY DONE. Lots of stuff going on .. not able to work in the garage too much lately - and - finally got this one done. I really like the piece of burl walnut I put it on - came from that source I have here - he thinks I'm using it for firewood, I think. hahahahaha And that Maple - that used to be part of a HEADBOARD for a Queen Bed someone was giving away. Now ---- it's a clock. hahahahaha .. I love this scroll saw stuff! I used a #1 NIQUA (Flying Dutchman) - and a 2/0 Pegas on some of it. Pattern is in the library - but - I would do a few things different. The stripes on the back - very delicate - I would stop them before they get to the top of the trunk under the spoiler. And I made a few changes on the fly near the headlights and things. I think it came out ok. The pattern was made from a picture I took of my son's car.

Ok, I give.. It never happened. YET!

I'm for cutting everything first then fill in. If you make a mistake cutting, you don't waste the epoxy

another fantastic christmas project!!! looks great!!

I am a big fan of the OEM stands and I have owned or used Excalibur 21, Hawk VS226, Dewalt 788 and Hegners. All on a concrete floors and without wheels.

I've had 2 saws with factory stands, a DeWalt and an EX-21. Both have been very good. I think the key to OEM stands is that the legs are splayed. This adds stability without adding excess weight. If you do experience some vibration, most stands have a lower frame, tying the legs together. Add a piece of plywood on top and you have a shelf. Put some weight on that shelf and it will help dampen vibration.

I have the EX-21 mounted on a shop made stand. The stand is heavy and very sturdy and I get no vibration. Mount the saw firmly and have the stand on good ground. As for the Porter Cable. I had one, I would save up and get a better saw . DeWalt & Delta are good mid range saws. Pegas is a highly rated saw .

Did you use the same blade and same speed as your first cut? I know on all of the ones that I have made I have used a couple different blades with different results. If the acrylic fuses back together I just cut around it again. It goes much faster the second time as you have already "laid down the tracks"! LOL

I have two Ex's and I built stands for both of them. I like to sit at my saw. I made them with 7" wheels at the back end of the stand and rigged up some pvc handles so that I can move the saws around like a wheelbarrow. I now have incorporated small vacs on both of them with cyclones and cpap hoses for dust collection. I'll post pics one of these days.

My grandkids took their peddle plane I made for them to the Airshow.

Hello everyone. Matt here, still a newbie. My question is about the stands or tables you use for your scroll saws. When I first (re)started using the Harbor Freight scroll saw, for convenience I clamped it loosely to an old kitchen table in my garage. The table is fairly heavy with a thick wood top. As I was using the saw, I was surprised about how little vibration there was. Then I started rearranging my shop and placed the saw on a much smaller (and lighter) wood table I had made from 2x4s and 3/4" plywood. When I turned on the saw, there was a lot for vibration especially at a mid-speed setting. So it seems to me that the table or stand needs to be heavy and rigid. Agreed? I'm already thinking about my next saw which might be the Porter Cable ($200). It comes with a stand but I can't imagine it is very heavy or rigid. Anyone have any experience with that saw? I think I might go back to the kitchen table and maybe even add some more weight to it (concrete blocks). Looking forward to your insights.

Compound cuts intersect same holes so cutting all first will leave voids to fill the hard way if at all. Cut the letter first!!!

My thoughts also.

Yep, a Steve Good design. It was in his newsletter a week or two ago.

Not sure, but looks like a Steve Good Design. Yes? I have this on my To Do List for a Couple Families. Yours Looks Outstanding. Danny :+}

Definitely cut letter first but you will have to cut through the epoxy to get the shape don't know how the blade will deal with that depends how hard the epoxy is I suppose. Roly

Just yesterday I was going to cut ornaments and was thinking of sanding the wood first but had no idea what grit. You saved the day again! Your right sanding with fine sandpaper will not lift the fragile slivers of wood in patterns,!!! Thanks Frank!!!

Nice job Les, you,LL be making plenty more or Christmas and other holidays.nothing holding you back now. Sometimes it,s good to venture out and try new things..P.S. your good at it!!!

I posted an addendum to my original post this morning but I don't see is here so I'll do it again. The cutting I show above worked so well. This morning I tried cutting a piece of plastic of unknown origin. The experiment was a failure as the plastic immediately fused together behind the blade. I know very little about plastics but obviously there are differences. The plastic used for the above is 1/8"clear CAST acrylic plexiglass. 12X24, $17.95, Amazon. I think CAST is the key word but I don't know.

Actually pushing the bulbs into the holes I drilled for them was the eaisest part of the project. Everything I had to do to get to that point took more time and effort then expected. Putting lights in the wreath seemed like it would be a good idea and it actually looks good fron the front, but the jungle of wires makes the project a little impracticle.

Catches your eye good!!!

Meets an exceeds Smitty's standard's!

Do you have any lumber shops around? Not big box. The cost for a 5 ' x 5 - 9mm BB is $29.95 at my local shop CDN $, So that would be about $25 US. You would get the 3 pieces you require plus one extra and 2 12x30. You may have to pay to to have cut down so it fits in your car. My shop cost $1 per cut after first.

Ok Thanks I did put 3 pieces in the cart ( didn't order yet) and it was free shipping. So you don't even need to drive there now! I do feel the same with my drivers license renewell coming up. I'll be 81 real quick.

very nice job

I've been meaning to try this.. well years ago I did try and failed.. Local hardware gave me some scraps.. actually was pretty big scraps which would be great for scrolling on.. Anyway I had very little no how of scrolling wood at that time and figuring what blade to use etc.. I melted he blade to the plastic and then it started bouncing up and down and broke the plastic.. Scared the crap out of me and I haven't touched it since.. Now that I'm a little smarter.. a #7 ultra rev. blade on 1/8" plastic at high speed was probably not the best idea, If I fail again... I have a back-up plan.. The laser cuts the stuff like butter and leaves a very smooth edge.. They say the smell is horrendous though, LOL

yOUR GRANDSON WILL LOVE IT.

An elegant looking car. Well done. Oh yeah I love the burl base. Marg

It’s been a loooong time since I did a scroll saw project. Been busy with life and doing mostly whittling and some power carving. My daughter got me back on the saw with this request.

I am trying to plane some maple down to 1/8" thickness for Christmas ornaments. My planer is a DeWalt DW735 with new blades and clean rollers. It planes well until it gets close to the 1/8" thickness then begins to chip. Am I just expecting to much of the planer? Thanks. Jim

very nice

You may want to read your manual for the planer you have.. My planer manual states to not go no less than 1/8 but also states that you should take very light passes with anything less than 1/4".. I've taken boards down to 3/16.. but I've also took really light passes.. I've read on the forums in the past that you should be very careful going down to those thin boards.. many say going to that thin of board you're better off with a drum sander.. I run my planer a lot.. but I usually just run it down to 5/8 or so.. rarely go less than 3/8.. so I'm no expert.. just stating what I've read in my manual and also what I've observed on forums.. Wayne also made a good point about paying attention to the grain direction.. I forget to look at the grain sometimes and it'll get a lot of chip out.. so I start the board on the opposite end.. I generally do that on my first or second pass and if I'm getting chip out change the board end for end.. and or take light passes...

Not really familiar with the Dewalt planers. One thing I have found is paying close attention to the grain direction. If the grain direction changes in the board, instead of cutting with the grain you start going against the grain. This will cause chip out and a few other things too. Another thing to try would be to mount the maple on a separate board and use it as a sled. I attach mine with double sided tape and it works great . Taking lighter cuts may also help. Maybe others will chime in on this for you also. Best of luck with your issue and getting it resolved. Please keep us posted.

There are many brands under that same style of saw.. BUT.. the working parts on the inside are different among the others.. Of this style of saw.. I believe with the larger bearing in the pivot arm at the back of the saw would make this saw more robust over those other brands so I would definitely say the Pegas would be my choice.. Also would work with Denny from Artcrafters for my purchase first.. as I like to support the small business man if / when I can..

Dennis Where are you located as it might make a difference. For shipping etc. I have an older EX-21 with Pegas blade holders and love it.

Axminster has just rung me and said, because I've not had the saw that long and because the 'pin' doesn't come as a 'single' item, they are sending me a replacement 'unit'.... A new tension lever + pin, free of charge. Now isn't that a lovely, refreshing gesture, great customer service. !!!

It's a box press that Tony made for me to hold my A4 - 3mm plywood to keep them straight. If you look carefully at the bottom I have some pieces in there sandwiched between some really thick mdf. It just came in handy to put my big A3 'car' onto while I clamped it. It is incredibly strong, when it's empty I turn it upside down and use it as a step to reach things on the top shelf.

I'm surprised that old Mopar is not "flattened". I would say you weighted it sufficiently.

I've done that with Birch too, I used gorilla glue. It worked fine.

I want to thank Frank for the Columbia products suggestion. I cut it with the Olson 2/0R blades I have, and it cut perfect. Ply stayed perfectly flat.. I want to thank TD for the portrait too. They are going to be very happy with this I'm pretty sure. I should have made the grain go vertical.. oh well...