Leaderboard

I thought a picture of an imperfect flower on a rough cut pallet board with cracks and nail holes would help convey this awesome quote from Fred Rogers. Make sure your kids and grandkids know you do.

This is a Steve Good pattern, but the pattern called to be hung on wall. I changed it to sit on table, etc. There was no place to store the numbers, until now, Thx for looking, RJ

Another old west - themed cutting. Pattern and cutting by me.

I made five of these for neighborhood children. The LED boxes are 4 for $25. Pretty inexpensive.

Friend stopped by and wanted a Trump 2020 ornament for his car. Baltis birch 1/4" wood and a #3 mgt blade from our member Denny. Only way I could take a picture with out my phone is with the lap top.3.75" x 5"

The Lincoln Zephyr was named after the Greek god of the West Wind. Ford’s aerodynamic design for 1937 competed directly with the Chrysler Airflow and the Pierce Arrow. The art deco style grill and integrated front fenders combined with the teardrop shaped front lights, gave it an upscale elegant look that bespoke the Lincoln line of cars. It had a small V-12 engine with 110 HP, 4.4 Liter with a top speed of 90 mph. Its production run was from 1936 through 19 42 with over 15,000 cards produced in the first year. All production ended with the beginning of WWII and Ford discontinued using the Zephyr name after WWII. The car came in Coup, Cabriolet and 4 door models. Plaque is 1/8” BBPW with ¼” backer. Finish is shellac with gloss lacquer.

This is a custom order request. The pattern is by Harvey Byler purchased from WoodCraftByScott.com. Thanks Scott. I enlarged the pattern by 10%. Cut at home on the EX21 using FD UR #5 blades. The wood is Poplar approximately 7" x 9". Sanded with the Sand Flee and dipped in Shellac diluted 50% with alcohol. Comments welcome.

The first step with any hinge is careful layout. I think the thickness of stock depends on the overall size of the box. (in the in the jewelry box pictured, the top of the box was 3/4 and the sides were 7/8 I think, the trays were 1/4 on the outside and 1/8 for the dividers) I don't build a lot of boxes but I usually use a vix bit to pilot. And I'm surprised no one mentioned mortising the hinge in place. The lid stand 'proud' without a mortise (at least in situations where the hinge is 'captured' between the lid and box side)? As someone mentioned use a steel screw after making a pilot hole, just in ensure the brass one doesn't snap off. In the last pic, a business card box, the hinges aren't mortised because they are not because they are outside the box.

Since our center is closed due to COVID, I decided to hold a craft show in my garage. Where I live is a community of 185 homes all retired people. I hope I can reduce my inventory and makes a few $$$$$$. Here are more stuff ready to go on the show.

I'm building my first medium size jewelry box. So far...so good, mostly. Most was engineered on the fly, hope I made good notes for the next one LOL. I'm to the point of attaching the hinges and latch, and don't want to screw up what I've done so far. I made this one out of wood I had laying around, the body is 1/2" Oak and the lid, and tray, is 1/4" Walnut. The parts are small with very small screws, see photo, for reference that's a #3 Pegas blade beside the screw. What's the best way to mount these hinges straight and in the proper position? I assume I'll need a dent or pilot hole to get the small screws to go in the right position. Also...do you guys that build trinket/jewelry boxes on a regular basis, for sale, think I should use 1/4" for the next box? What thickness do you use for body & lid?

I posted this a while back and this technique works well for me. Thanks Dave. I've got the hinge thing down pat. I posted my technique in an earlier post but 2 sided tape makes it easy. I'll mark off the outside edges of the hinge on the lower base. The hinges I use are 1/8" thick at the hinge. I actually mounted the lower hinge before I glued the box together, that way I can do all my cuts on the scroll saw. I cut down the 1/8" on the sides and trim out the recess for the hinge. I use the 2 sided tape to hold the hinge in place and drill out for the screws. I'll pre tap the screws with wax and remove the screws. Next, I assemble the sides. I remove the tape on the lower hinge and replace with a smaller piece. I put a piece of 1/16" wood inside the sides of the hinge so that it stands flush and then apply a full size piece of 2 sided tape on top of that. I'll properly position the box frame on top box top and make sure the tape on the top of the hinge adheres to the box top. I use an exacto knife to lift the hinge off the base. They will be properly aligned and I pre drill the mounting screws making sure it doesn't go all the way through by marking the drill with blue tape. I will pre tap the holes with wax. Since the top is 1/4" and screws are 1/4". I'll hold the screw with a vice grip and grind them down to the right size to fit. This actually goes pretty quick once you do it a few times. I've also done this with piano stop hinges also. (since you assembled the box already, use a xacto knife to trim out for the depth of the hinges)

Well, I know people can be real sensitive and take offense at just about anything, but for the life of me, I can't imagine how anyone could twist the words of Fred Rogers to be anything other than what he intended. No man in the public eye ever was more sensitive and considerate of the feelings of his audience than Fred Rogers.

When my students are using small hinges I have them hot glue them in place to mark where the pilot holes will go. We also sometimes use it to hole the hinge in place while putting in the little screws, one less thing to try and hold/line-up.

I use VIX bits to center holes in hinges. https://www.amazon.com/COMOWARE-Centering-Woodworking-Window-Replacement/dp/B08CGHQPBR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Vix+Bit&qid=1603699600&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyS0FSUkxGODJQWElOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTE5Njc3Mk0yVlo4QkFLS1pFVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTExOTI4MlVZRDY5RTdSTzlONiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

You can also use a hinge bit (formerly known as a Vix bit) to set the holes. These self center on the hinge screw hole, and the depth can be controlled. If you plan on making a number of these, the hinge bit is the way to go. Just be sure the bit is sized to fit your screw. https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Self-Centering-Hinge-Bit-A99SCHB1/312284028?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-B-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories-71700000071858300-58700006314327728-92700057006649503&msclkid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclid=4f625f0da6f61376d3a1009b822b39b7&gclsrc=3p.ds Otherwise, using a gimlet or awl to mark the center of the hinge hole then drilling the hole is a good way to do it. Tom

Yes, that is what I use when setting small screws. I measure the length of the screw and apply some blue tape to the gimlet as a depth stop.

I do think 1/2” is to thick for a jewelry box. I would use 1/4”, although some like Jim Finn uses 3/8”. As far as the hinges, you do need a pilot hole for the screws. I use gimlets. They are manual screw starters. They come in sets to accommodate different sizes of screws. Basically, they are threaded at the tip with a loop at the top to turn it into the wood to make your screw hole. Since you are using 1/2” for the body, the screws will not penetrate through the wood. However, the screw may be to long for the 1/4” top. I mount the hing to a scrap of the top material and see how much it protrudes. Then grind the tip on a grinder to the length needed. Then gently screw in the screw, backing it out to clear the dust until it is seated properly. You may want to use a steal screw first as the small brass screw break easily. You can get gimlets at garrettwade.com. Look for screw gimlets.

I took the photos down because of privacy reason I didn't want to leave them up forever because of peoples names on them.. I'll the pictures back up for a couple days again..

Has anyone ever used this fretsaw? If you have, did you find it useful or a pain in the neck? I'm thinking of getting one.

That is one beautiful cut

Super idea!

I have absolutely no use for a lab jack. Did not know what it was. Looked it up on Amazon. That is a cool little devise. I'd love to have one. No use for it but would so look cool on the workbench. Tough being a tool junkie.

Very nice!

Now that's a nice ornament.

Those came out great. I did something like that with Christmas designs.

Your always doing something kevin.

Thanks Katie! I thought of that...but wondered if that was a dumb idea lol. Now I know it will work!

That's 1/8" for #8, #10, #12 screws. I may look around to see if they make them for #2, I think that is what these are. But thanks, I have them on my list of tools to get foe other projects. That looks like a quick and easy way to do it. edit: I found a nice chart for screw hole sizes https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Wood-Screws/Wood-Screw-Pilot-Hole-Size.aspx And on Amazon there are hinge bit sets with small sizes! Thanks!

kevin I don't know about a gallon just add some not much and see what happens. You know how to take apart a 2 pieces glued togather . soak them in vinager it will soften the glue. I had about a cup of glue that got too thick to use and added about 3 oz. of vinager and it works fine.sorry about tyhe late anser but I have beenoff the computor for some time ike

I would imagine it is going to take some practice and getting used too. There is a V notched table (?) you use also. I have a Knew concept saw but use it for cutting dove tails. Best of luck if you go this route.

My comments have nothing to do with the very well done scroll work. It is more so, about how the message may be received. Quite a while ago I used to teach Couples to Dance. When they would sucessfully finish a routine I had a habit of saying: "That wasn't too terrible" and ment it as a complement until It was pointed out to me that I was really saying; "It was terrible". Until it was mentioned to me I had no idea that what I was saying was realy hurtful. When Mister Rogers spoke he was talking to a wide aduience of alll kinds of children. And all those chilldren received the meaning of such words in their own minds and circumstances. My comment is; isn't the cutting and message conveying the idea that there is something actually wrong with the child who will be the recipient. Kind of like what I was doing with my offending complement to my students. Consider what you might think if you received a Valentines day card with that image and saying. Hoping my comments are not out of place as they are just for consideration.

There is a guy who sometimes post his work on here and he only uses a hand held fretsaw.

There is someone on one of my facebook groups that uses it. He does some amazing work. His first name is Amos. @uniquescrollerspatternshop

never used one , but it looks like it would be slow. let us know how it worked . If you get one. IIE

Hi Charlie: Perfect, love the whole concept of what you did here Simply awesome... Thanks for showing us Fab4

Charlie, I always enjoy seeing your work. Well done.

That is awesome. I love, love, love it. Great work Charlie. Marg

By the way, what you call Sqigglies is called tear out.

If anyone buys one of these LED bases,, don't cut out the pattern until you receive the base. Some bases have different length slots. Les seems to of found a good blade to use that doesn't require a wooden sandwich. I use a FD UR1 with 1/8" BB on both sides. One positive of using the BB on both sides is that you get two more decorations to hang, sit, mount somewhere. You may have to alter the bottom of the wooden cutouts, you probably don't want the "rectangle" left on them.

Thanks Kevin.

My advice for what it's worth is to get a can of repositional craft glue like 3M Spray Mount, spray back of pattern, wait 30 secs and place on wood. Cut patterns and then dampen with white spirit and the paper will fall off with minimal residue. I always do this and never have a problem even with the most intricate cutting.

Marg how is it going? We have 3 of them. 2 ride in the truck with us as we criss cross the US.

Jim Blume pattern with the final touches

Made this yesterday a day after of my father’s heavenly birthday..... Not my pattern.....found on social media......I resized it....7.5” T......thought is was cute....made with scrap wood.....I may make a couple different sizes & change the color for her wings.....comments always liked. God Bless Smitty

Full sheets of BB can also be sourced from larger cabinet shops. Many of them have will call counters specifically for selling materials to the public.

I agree 110%. I use 4-5 sheets of 1/8" BB during the year. I use it for gift card holders, ornaments, backer boards and even templates. If I only a needed a 24 x 30 piece for a one time project I would not care if I paid a bit more for the convenience. BTW I also do intarsia and other solid wood projects. When I go stock up on plywood I normally go through their off cut pile and bring back hardwoods and exotics.

A bit too far for me Kevin. A little over 100 miles one way. I did see it was about $27.00 for a 5x5 sheet for 3/8 or 9mm Going with a 5 x 5 sheet of BB is probably my best bet and cheapest by cutting it myself on my table saw. But that leaves me with leftover wood I may not use. I rarely use plywood in any of my woodworking. And I really have enough of that leftover stuff I have accumulated in my many many years of woodworking. I'm 80. I really don't need anymore "leftovers" as my wife will tell you. I'm a hoarder and don't like to throw anything away. haha. I just may pay the extra and have very little leftover. Not sure yet. But thank you for the info. I did find this Kevin. It's much closer for me and maybe you. Might be worth a look or trip. Very reasonable prices for BB https://www.toledoplywood.com/product-category/categories/hardwoods/baltic-birch/ Ben

Go to your scrap pile and get another board. Since you cut it before, it should cut all right again. If you still have the problem, it's the saw or blade. If it cuts all right, it's the wood. Tom

It shows you're in SE MI.. so could be a drive for you.. It's a bit of a drive (40 -45 minutes ) from me but I buy a lot of stuff there.. they put you in their system and the more you buy the better pricing they give to loyal customers.. I pay $12 for a 5ft x 5ft sheet of 1/8" and about $15 for 1/4".. Never bought the 3/8 so I don't know.. Anyway this place is in Charlotte MI.. so I'm not sure in relation to you this is.. There may be a place near you with these kind of prices.. I haven't bought any in just over a year so maybe the prices have went up some too.. The place is LLJohnson Here is a link to the site.. you can look up the prices online but not order http://www.theworkbench.com/ EDIT: They have raised the prices since I last looked. It was $12 sheet for 1 sheet pricing just a couple years.. maybe last year..

I just paid $14.77 for a 5'x5' sheet of 5.2mm Russian Baltic Birch and $9.86 for 3mm. They had thicker but I didn't inquire. Brian