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I use Titebond clear. It goes on white but dries perfectly clear Any minor spillover that I do not catch is no problem because the backer board color shows through

This is my husbands ‘71 AMC Javelin. 3/4 inch thick pine cut with a 0/2 spiral blade.

Hello friends. I show you this last work I did. It is made of 12mm MDF. Maybe it could be as a puzzle, but I did it for decoration Hope you like the idea, thank you in advance for your comments.

I thank Rich (goldfish) and Don (don in brooklin) for the elements that I utilized in the pattern that I cobbled together for this. It has temporarily replaced the seasonal rotating Welcome sign on our front door and will stay there until after Remembrance Day on November 11th. I dedicate this to Tip Pellow (my father) and Elmer Pellow (my uncle). They were both in the Canadian army in WWII and, between the two, fought in Italy, France, Belgium, The Netherlands, and Germany. Both of them survived the war but it took a tremendous toll and neither lived to old age. Both the foreground and background are Baltic Birch plywood. I painted the wreath attempting to give it and old and weathered look. Here is one photo of the door with one of its typical Welcome signs and another photo with the new wreath.

I use Weldbond glue. It is white and dries clear. It works with painted and stained backers. I apply the glue with a small paint roller I covered with foam pipe insulation. The glue goes on the back of the piece you are attaching the backer to.

Very well done Berndt.

I have just created a album with some photos of toys I have made. These are all MDF, with some other timber. I did this to show that MDF can be finished to a high quality, and is a very stable medium. The larger pieces I sprayed (Compressor and Gun) The puzzles are painted with a brush then a couple of coats of clear Lacquer. The Kiddies tables and chairs are MDF melamine coated and the edges and pattern I painted with acrylic paint, a couple of coats. The green VW was made for a 3 and 4 year old brother and sister. When they reached 10 it was given to their younger cousins. When they out grew it it was given back to me and with only a few minor scratches to be touched up and auctioned it for a charity. Many of these will outlast me. I have seen a dolls cradle at a garage sale etc.

I use Spray contact cement to attach to backer and use CA glue along the edges to hold it down. The material is a 1/8" pattern and a 1/4" luan backer. I use a black acrylic paint that dries very quickly. I did a YouTube video a while back and the latter half address what you are asking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2Zpr7AY7og&t=274s

I cut this 11X14 Alex Fox Pattern titled Eagle-Flag from 1/4 inch thick Oak solid core plywood, that I stained with Minwax Weathered Oak stain to enhance the Oak color. The cut panel was affixed it to a 1/4 inch thick Mahogany solid core plywood backer that I darkened with Minwax Mahogany stain to improve the contrast. The panel was finished with multiple coats of spray lacquer. The cut was done exclusively with Pegas #0 spiral blades. Cutting the Oak was slightly more challenging than the Maple or BB Plywood I usually use. Had to cut a little slower and even the cutting sound was different. After the cut was complete the vertical grain alignment produced an interesting look. The panel is loose fit into a solid Red Oak Frame which I made and also darkened with the Minwax Mahogany stain. The Frame was finished with multiple coats of clear Gloss Polyurethane.

Good afternoon, I am in need of a new printer, I want to be able to scan a pattern and make smaller or larger, don’t need color, has to be wireless, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thx RJ

Hello again! Last time, I was so warmly welcomed here that I decided to look here again. First of all, I want to express my heartfelt gratitude to all the participants who, one way or another, noted in my previous topic. I want to say a special thank you to those people who did not spare their precious time and were able to find and write a few warm words for me. I appreciate it. Well, now, I will continue if I may. Plywood 4mm. Magnificent Robert De Niro and a small openwork shelf.

I'm sure this has been discussed many times on here, but here goes anyway. After you finish a fretwork and want to apply a black backer board how do you go about applying it? I have a small scroll saw project I'm working on . A "Butterfly clock" that I want to apply a small black background to it. I have some 1/8" plywood that I will spray paint one side black, then cut to size. What should I use to apply it? Thanks in advance Ben

To all veterans, thanks you for your service. This display is set up at ArtCrafters. Yes, the Coast Guard plaque is not finished.

Thank you Les. Yes, my question was about dust collection. The comment about noise was just a complaint and I do wear hearing protection. My concern about dust collection centers on the quality of the filter in the shop vac. I suspect that much of the finer dust goes right through that filter and is blown back into the air in my shop (in my garage). I am looking for way to get a higher quality filter into my dust collection system. I suspect, but do not know, that a cyclone type device will remove the larger particles but allow the finer dust to go on to the vacuum. And I seriously doubt that the filter in my shop vac removes any of the finer dust particles. So, my concern is that shop vac + cyclone still does not remove the finer dust particles. And those are the most harmful to my lungs as well as putting a fine coat of dust on everything in the shop. Thurman

I might suggest something here. I bought 2 of the MetroVac's. One for each of my saws. After buying them, I started looking at the little portable vacs from Oreck. We wanted one for our motor home so I got curious as to the price on eBay. I found one like new with all the attachments for a total of $58. Also found many others that would be in that price range or even less. I'm thinking seriously about experimenting with the one I bought to see how good the suction is. They are not all that noisy. Not like a shop vac. I'll let you all know once the experiment is done. I may be putting my 2 Metro's up for sale. @Rolf, I"m going to incorporate a small piece catcher similar to the one you use. I like that idea.

Well done, Frank! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

I'm thinking about getting a new printer as well.. so this topic I will be following.. I'd like to get away from inkjet printers which is what I've had for always, LOL Are there laser printers with the wide format? My current printer can print 11 x 17 papers which is nice for those larger patterns.

Well done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

So, with the seeds of an idea from Rockytime, I went on a parts hunt to see if I could ‘make’ a clamp with as little machine work as possible. The parts in the pic are what I found. The coupling nut is a bit loos up and down but will work fine. A shorter cap screw would be nice, but it’s what they (Menards) had and I can cut it.

Hi Thurman. Thanks for posting your question. Sound like your basic question is not so much about the noise problem but about dust collection. I would first of all place a Dust Deputy or small cyclone between the saw and the vacuum cleaner. Most vacuum cleaners will do a reasonable job. A Festool may be nice but not financially practical for many. So, we try to work with what is available. I also have the vacuum for one saw outside the room which helps with noise. The vacuum for the second saw is right behind the saw. I put up with the noise with hearing protection.

Thanks for the locline size, that Festool vac sounds like living room quiet. My system is 95D with the saw running with no blade noise but is barely heard with work tunes. My oldC raftsman shop vac is 105D. Bob

I have a Brothers laser printer. It has a scanner and is wireless. I agree with Devin. Watch for Black Friday sales.

For sure go laser check the Black Friday ads for the stores like Office Depot and Best Buy etc... might be able to score a good deal. Always research the toner cost for the printer also.

I currently have a brother laser, without scanner. I love it, but do miss the scanner from time to time. If I needed one today I would buy this one, a laser all-in-one. I like the laser printers because the toner doesn't dry out between uses like inkjets often do, and the toner seems to last forever. I think I have bought tonner cartridge 2 times in 5 years.

Well done Frank. We all owe a debt to those brave men and women.

I have my shop vac hose ran through the wall. So no noise. Also use a dust deputy with it.

Just my opinion... But to me it seems like this would work better with the suction hose on the opposite side of the saws blower tube. Or are you moving the blower tube up and out of the way? It's amazing how much better the Seyco system with only a lower suction collection and having a fan with furnace filter at table height sucking up the dust blown from the saws dust blower.. Plus... no suction noise on top of the table.. Quite frankly, I've found that the dust port provided on the Ex-21 with a shop vac gets more of the dust than the Seyco system does.. But the shop vac is also about 2x louder, LOL..

I wonder if you used an anti static spray on the cone if that would work and if so for how long? Or even one of the anti static sheets you throw in the dryer. I would never use a shop vac for dust collection, they are just too noisy. The other thing is I would think about putting in a vent so that all of the air is not trying to go through a 3/4 inch hole. Just my opinion.

Today is Remembrance Day on many parts of the world, so I am giving this a bump.

Awesome job

This is a very timely discussion for me as I have been working on a dust collection system for my almost new Pegas. The top half of my collection system is working well but I have more work to do on the bottom half. As you can see in the photo, I am using CPAP hose and zip ties. It does not get in the way as it lifts up with the arm. I connect it through a PVC tee fitting to the bottom half and to my shop vac - very loud. All the dust goes directly into the shop vac and I am concerned about the smaller particles going through the shop vac filter and back into the air. I am looking for some way to put a good filter in the line to collect those smaller particles. Any thoughts on how best to do that?

I did not actually record the number of hours at the saw. Guessing, I would say about 12 to 15 hours. I don't spend more than 3 houirs at one time at the saw and that is often interuppted by other chores that crop up. Also, I lose a lot of cutting time replacing broken blades . I do know that I have become a lot more proficient using spiral blades and the REAL cut time is a lot less that if I tried to do this kind of pattern with a straight cutting blade.

Nice work. How long did this take to cut? I'm currently finishing up another one of Alex's designs and I'm embarrassed to say how long I've been cutting and still not finished.

Beautifully done!

I should have posted a link to the body filler spreaders.. I use these to spread the glue out evenly on the wax paper or plastic trash bag.. one spread out you just set the piece to be glued to the backer into the glue and then put it on the backer.. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-putty-spreaders-20-pc-69564.html

Couldn't edit my post; the instant glue technique could be used on a production basis. RJF

Beautiful workmanship. Love airplanes. Began flying as a teen.

Saw a youtube the other day. Wasn't scroll saw, but noted his glue technique. He put strips of glue spaced, then put CA glue 'crazy glue' in the spaces. He held it in place enough for the CA to grab. CA glue can be used as a two part, so the glue in applied to one piece and the instant set is applied to the other piece. It eliminates the pin nailer, clamping, or putting weights on the project. Filed this technique away in my brain to use if I'm short on clamps or a pin nailer isn't available. One additional missed 'clamping' technique is taping a few places. Little off track from glue. I'm covering some of the responses that could or couldn't be used from lack of equipment or space. RJF

Those look great.

Great cutting on that pattern. I like that one a lot.

I recommend this pattern

Not sure if you was asking what type of glue or how to apply.. I won't go into glue types as everyone will have their favorite glue, car, boat etc... I use a plastic garbage sack.. but you can use wax paper etc.. Lay the bag / paper out on the workbench.. pour a appropriate amount of your favorite glue and I use a plastic body filler spreader to spread the glue out as evenly as you can.. Dip the back side ( this is important.. make sure you dip the right side you want to glue, I've messed this up more than once and dipped the front side ) into the glue and press it down so it gets glue on it good.. lift it up and stick it onto the backer.. Clamp or put weight on it however works best for your situation. Put the bag out somewhere so it can dry and you can peel off the glue or shake the bag and most the glue will peel off, then you can still use he bag for its normal purpose, lol

I too use Aileen’s Tacky glue. If the area is wide enough, I apply it with the bottle tip, otherwise, I apply it with a toothpick. I apply it thin enough to not get any squeeze out. If I do get squeeze out, I clean it up with the other end of the toothpick. As far as painting the backer board, I use flat black spray for two reasons. Flat paint cures faster. You want the paint cured before you glue it. Second, I apply my top coat after the backer is installed. That way you are not putting a finish on top of a shiny paint.

I use Titebond 11, but then I stain the backer with water soluble stain.

I generally use Aileen's clear tacky glue. Just put small drops in the area I want the glue, then spread it around with my finger. I do try to keep it away from the edges of the frets, and keep the glue thin. Once the overlay is in position, I will use a pin nailer to secure it from the back, if the wood is thick enough to keep the nails from going all the way through. Otherwise, I don't bother with the pin nails. The nails are just in case the glue should fail, so I only use a few around the edges. I have some 3/8" pin nails, so most of my projects are 1/2" finished thickness. Pin nails are also good for reinforcing butt and miter joints in thin material. Tom

Yes it is. That was easy.

@John B I have made quite a few toys from MDF. It holds up surprisingly well. You need to understand its weaknesses and build accordingly. MDF is surprisingly strong. I made a spider for my grandson with MDF thinking he would soon break it. Three years later, and it's not broken yet. I have made cars and puzzles too. One advantage it has over wood for toy making is that it does not splinter. Many commercially produced toys are made from MDF. My grandson has a toy hammer that has an MDF head. He has used it extensively. The hammer is beaten up but hasn't broken.

Found this little guy over on Etsy ("DXFpage") and thought it would be a fun cut. Not too many pilot holes, maybe 25 or so, but.....dang. All that fur is just jagged lines and thin margins! So...yep, DEFINITELY a fun cut! Double-cut from 3/8" bbply, Pegas #1MG blades (two, I think). Its been a busy couple of weeks so it took me a lot longer (calendar-wise) than I thought it would, but probably close to 10-12 hours tops. The project will be stained dark, I'm thinking Minwax Ebony or Provincial, and I'm thinking about a couple of backer options...may just go with a flat ply backer, stained a lighter shade to contrast. I have a bunch of old pallet wood that would look cool, but I think it'll end up too dark even with a light oak stain. We'll see.

someone offered me a brand new Wen I said no thanks . Nice toys you have!!!