Leaderboard

A big THANK YOU is going out to Bernd (munzieb) who was willing to share the Hummingbird pattern for the lamp body side panels. My version is also made from solid Oak. Body Panels cut from 1/4x5 1/2 x 48 and the top and base was cut from 1/2x5 1/2x24. The Base and top are my design. The lamp body is 4 1/2" square by 10" tall. The base is 5 1/2" square x 1 1/2" tall. The Top is 5 1/2 Square x 1/2" tall. The vertical edges of the body panels were beveled to 45 degrees on my bench belt sander. All the mitering and chamfering done for the base and top was done on the table saw. I use a frame strap clamp during glue up to insure the base was square. I use the scrolll saw to cut the cutouts in at the bottom of the base sides before glue up. Like Bernd, I used amber plexiglass. However, I made the plexiglass more translucent by applying velum with sparay adhesive to the inside face. The electrical components consist of a 6 ft lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, short lamp pipe nipple, candlelabra socket and LED bulb. The top is loose fit for access to the bulb. I stack cut the four sides and used Pegas #3 MGT R Blades. Cutting the 1" thick stack was slow but not too difficult. After assembly and sanding, the lamp and the loose top was finished with many coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Made this lamp for my lady as she loves Hummingbirds. That makes two Hummingbird plaques, one Hummingbird framed piece and now this Hummingbird lamp . She is Happy.

This piece was scrolled on a special wood, Kauri from New Zealand that was certified after carbon dating to be over 50,000 years old. These huge trees, similar to giant sequoias in California, were found underground in a farm area. These huge logs are excavated, collected, and air dried for over a year before they are milled into lumber for use, especially for large furniture pieces. The huge diameter of the logs provides great slabs for very big conference tables and other commercial projects. When finish is applied, tiny golden or bronze flecks appear, called a chatoyant grain,.

Hi All Here is my wreath for this year. Nearly finished few more coats of varnish.

Some very thin cutting on this lettering. I would describe what and where this is but I think the picture speaks for itself LOL Half inch BB plywood. Worn Navy, Worn Gray and Provincial are the stain colors. Lettering cut with a #2 reverse tooth.

Well, for some reason, around last may, I decided I needed a break from scrolling.... I think I kinda got burned out and I also had neglected other important things because of the hobby. Anyway... I did check in here once in a while just to see what was going on in the scrolling world... A couple weeks ago, I spotted a post by @heppnerguy of a cutting he had done of a Fiona Kingdon patter that was in the last issue of SSW. I really loved what he had done. I don't take the magazine anymore and thought about ordering the issue,,, but with the cost of the mag and shipping... na, I think not. A couple days latter, I was at a grocery store with my wife, and we were by the magazine rack and there, the first thing I saw was the latest issue of SSW. I thought it must be an omen! So I bought it. Just finished cutting the pattern yesterday. I wasn't sure I would make it through the cutting because it has been a while and it is not a simple pattern. But, I did and am happy with the results... I haven't applied a finish yet. I think I want to dip it and then spray with Deft Clear coat, but I also want to plan around with a stain glass for a backer.... I don't have any stain glass so I will have to learn something about that. I cut it in 1/2" Beech. By the way, I did really miss the form, I am going to limit my time spent here, but very happy to be somewhat involved again... I have browsed around some and see some great projects have been done.

Just braggin' about my view today. LOL First of 3 holiday events in a row. Week 1 was solid. Week 2 at the same place next Saturday. Week 3 just up the road and then done for the year. Fortunate to have had my local markets this year while all of my big events were cancelled.

Which one do you like more? Here is my new project - Bear paw. Most of my animals in patterns looks calm or cute, this time I wanted to make aggressive look. Bear and Wolf Patterns

Made a few of these for friends, Thanks too àll who helped create the pattern for it

My shop is tiny! I do not have room for a floor stand drill press or even a heavy bench stand drill press. Up to this point I have simply been using a hand held drill for bits down to 1/16" dia, or for the very tiny holes, the small drill bits chuck mounted in a dedicated Dremel Tool, to make the blade access holes. Both are just used by hand holding the drill or Dremel Tool. I recently had an occasion to stack cut a total of four 1/4" layers (1" total) of solid oak. I found that in a number of cases where the hole was close to the cut line, it was not made perfectly perpendicular to the wood and therefore, was actually outside the cut line on the bottom layers. I don't do a lot of stack cutting and I guess I should be a lot more carefull. However even on thin panels, I have found that when small cut out areas are close together, if I did not hold the drill perpendicular to the wood, the hole angles off toward the side encroaching on the adjacent cut line. My question is what are those of you, that might be in my predicament, using for a drill press. Dremel makes a small drill press, but is seems the base is only about 6" square and it would not allow drilling pieces larger tha 6" wide. I have also reviewed a few of the You Tube videos on how to build a Dremel Drill press and they don't look to apealing.

Rockytime: You're a hard man - remember - smartphones didn't exist in 1979(ish) - and in 2020 - now 40 years later - I do have a smartphone - but actually using it is another thing entirely ... Not sure all is visible - but in the background is my woodrack - and off to the left is our yard ladders etc. Jay .

Remember, no pictures, it does not exist.

Been a while since I posted - but I feel your pain about a small shop. One option might be a "Lazy-Susan" for bench top tools. Mine is a 36" circular table top and it holds my bench top drill press, a 4 inch bench-top jointer and a bench top router table - it has stood the test of time - originally built in 1979(ish) and has been a main fixture in 4 workshops since. Nothing fancy about the construction - in truth about as rough a piece of carpentry is it gets - just a plywood top on a 2X6 tripod frame (with its own circular plywood top) - central "bearing" is a 6 inch spike - think I got the original design from a Popular Mechanics magazine - but I recall dumbing it down quite a bit to suit my own budget and capabilities ...... Jay

I have been using a bench top drill press may by Wen for about 6 years. It was cheap and does everything I need.

Plunge router on the Dremel works well if you cut thin stock.. I have one and use it for some projects but there is side to side play in the plunge part of it.. and sometimes it not always at a straight up / down drilling.. it can be a few degrees off. Not bad in thin material but it's not super accurate if you're drilling on a line that would be for veining etc... or close to the next cutout.. it works great if you don't need precise holes though..

I also use the plunge router attachment

I also have a small work sho 8X10 I have a lot of tools in that small space A 10' bench top drill press , 2 belt sanders, a bench top band sawwood racks and a craftmans table saw.when I want to use the table saw I have to put the Scroll saw away. when people sees it thay are amazed how I got thay much in the shop Islso use Dremell the plunge router at one time I had a floor model drill press It went bad so I decided to go with what I have now. I have lived with this for the last 30 years. IKE

I use the Dremel plunge router attachment, also. Larry

Buy the Dremel plunge router attachment. That way you won't be limited to where you can drill. I've got two of them. One for my regular Dremel and one for the larger discontinued Dremel that was designed for doing cutouts. They work great.

It does make a big difference what brand you use. I always use the 12" DUCK brand stuff, and get it from Walmart or Amazon. Last winter while down on the Mexican border I was running low. There was a Target next to the HEB grocery store (low on beer too) so I stopped there and grabbed a roll of 18" not paying attention to the brand. Save a trip over to Walmart and 6" wider too...good deal right...wrong! The stuff was a PIA to take off and pulled small splinters off BB, which never happened before. I went to Walmart and got the DUCK brand stuff I had been using... no more problems. Still have that 18" roll some where for other things...someday.

Again thanks for th inputs. But I think I wil stick with spraying the wood . The pattern does dalmost fall off the boarrd when you use a small amount of mineral Spirits some times I can't get my fingers working right . andd I have a full galon of spirits, which will last about 2 years at this rate @ $15 per galon i don't want to wast it. It works good for me and this old dog is to old to change his way. IKE IKE

I am glad to hear you like the modification Paul. I didn't experience the vibration issue you mentioned. I read somewhere that Kubota tractors paint is a good match.

Oh Wow. Now I know why I do Fretwork. !!

@stoney, just wanted to let you know,,, I did "the mod" on my Hegner a little over a week ago. It turned out to be very simple, as you said... the longest part being taping the hole. I was going real slow and careful doing that,,,, in a little ways back, in a little more and back out... Got the spring at an Ace Hardware. It was a little weak, held the arm up, but when I lowered the arm there was hardly any resistance and I didn't like the feel.... My saw also seemed to have more vibration than before the mod... so I made the spring a little shorter and it really helped. Not sure if the spring caused the vibration, I had to move the saw to work on it and I have to get it back in just the right spot or it will vibrate more. Anyway, I got it done and I glad I did it... helps to have the arm go up higher... I need to find a little orange paint now...

So true that “what works for you best is the best way “. As long as you get to the finish line an you are happy with out come that is the main thing.

+1 for Duck brand

Try Duck brand.

Hi Kevin: If they were to rebrand the shelf liner for scrolling purposes the price would triple I'm sure You never knew it could be used on shelves, eh!!! - That's hilarious....jk!!!

HI all I have been using green painters tape for years and I agree with a post up above, that when it comes time to take it off, you end up with lots of little pieces. I just started using the clear stuff from Walmart and it is great. My wife suggested I take the roll and cut off about a few feet that roll it up in the opposite direction and put a rubber band around it and when its time to use it, it will lay flatter for you. I just take my little piece of plywood and lay it on the backside and cut around the board with a exacto knife and then peel it off and stick it to it. Works ver well I feel Bill in Wisconsin

This project was done on a new wood for me from Uruguay called Red Grandis, It was nice to work with. This is the natural color, a light reddish tone.

No doubt she has been humming happy tunes with all those gifts. another beautiful project that I am sure earned you major brownie points.

I have a small shop as well. Every tool I have is on a rolling cart for not only movement but also convenience. I have a Dremel with this workstation: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068P48O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is mounted to a flip top cart that also has my Genevieve mounted on the same side, with my Planer mounted on it's own side The workstation for me is amazing! The base is small enough to fit on the top of my cart and I can add a larger table top to it when I need additional support. I use dbl sided tape to expand the base and a simple piece of 1/2" ply as the expanded platform I also have 2 bench top drill presses - a Wen 3410 and a HF 8" I just bought because I thought my wen was breaking down. The wen is on it's own wheeled cart and the HF is mounted to a 3/4" slab and currently clamped to the back of my main workbench - which of course is also on wheels LOL At some point I want to mount both drill presses to a flip top, but I don't see that happening anytime soon due to the nature of my Saturday craft fair events that are on going through March

That is just perfect

Very well done.. I would love to know how you were able to get the 45 on your belt sander. That would be so helpful. You certainly tackled that project with a lot of thought and skill. I came out very beautifully too. Dick heppnerguy

Fantastic

It looks great which we expect from you. IKE

Ha, I'm too cheap to buy a whole can of paint for that little touch up... Maybe I will just put a smiley face sticker over it or something....

Just found this from Mr. Google. Hope it helps.

I have 10 and resize using "Paint"

I've used posterazor now for about 12 years for resizing patterns.. https://posterazor.sourceforge.io/

nice you didn't loose your touck. IKE

Nicely done! I'm in the Brown column as well

I've been using the duck brand shelf liner since just after I started and learned it from several posts here. There are basically 2 kinds - easy peel and and not so easy peel LOL The 12" from what I can tell is the only easy peel available The 18" liner is a good alternative, although it is not necessarily an easy peel product though it does come off fairly easily. However, it seem the glue on the 18" rolls is a bit tackier. I bought 4 rolls of the 18" on sale at Amaz, and just bought 1 roll on Amaz of the 12" I'm going to buy the 12" in bulk I think, because of the less "tackiness" of the glue. The nice thing about the 18" roll is how many boards I can prep. Unlike @Iguanadon I do mine a bit differently. Rather than roll out the whole board ( I can't get 12" boards here, but now I can get 14" boards from my new source), I roll the liner on the width of the board in several sheets. I'm buying my boards now in 16' boards cut in half then in quarters, so I cut 2 18" x 14" pieces then a 14" x 12", and line them up and stick em'

I tried the shelf liner. The stuff I bought pulled off easily enough but left a sticky residue. I have since gone back to blue painters tape. I am much happier with pulling up multiple sections of tape rather than dealing with the sticky residue. Here is the shelf liner I bought. Other brands must be better judging by all the positive comments I see on this subject. Just don't get this one. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Grip-Original-Removable-Coverings/dp/B0848PXDBF/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=gorilla+grip+shelf+liner&qid=1603664053&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFVUldYRFRMUkExVlMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwNDY1MDIxMzZJWDlXNEFBTkkyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NTM2NzEzSTI5T1BLRzA2UjJIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

I need to make a large outdoor address sign.....would like to cut the large 6” numbers from a plastic type of material.....anybody have any ideas what I can use & not too expensive? Thanks in advance. God Bless

Hi, Dan, I wanted some sheets like you are referring to for a LARGE project and the price was too prohibitive for that project but, for 6" numbers, maybe a sheet like this would be worth the price. https://www.lowes.com/pd/SANALITE-POLYETHYLENE-0-25-in-T-x-12-in-W-x-48-in-L-Off-white-Plastic-Sheet/1001463508 As you can see these are 12" wide by 48" tall but, other sizes are available. A bit expensive but, they should last forever. Menards has similar materials and I would think Home Depot or other box stores would also but, the stores advertise Polyethylene, HDPE, Polypropylene, Acrylic, polycarbonate, and who knows what all so, you would probably have to actually look at what they have in store and in what thicknesses to suit your purpose. For house numbers or something like that, these Polypropylene sheets are extremely cheap and would probably work but, up close they may not be aesthetically desirable. They are fluted or corrugated so the edge isn't smooth. https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/acrylic-glass-sheets/amerilux-0-158-x24-x-36-thick-fluted-polypropylene-sheets/blucrp24x36/p-1539107081946-c-7551.htm?tid=401167036542638643&ipos=1 God Bless! Spirithorse

It's sort of like Lipton's French Onion Soup Mix... who actually uses it for soup instead of French Onion dip? LOL

It keeps the shelves smooth and makes them easier to clean and no scratches to boot.

i HAVE A RACK THAT sTEVE GOOD HAS ON HIS SITE IT HOLDS ABOUT 8 TUBES AND THAT IS MORE THAN ENOUGH FOR MY WORK STATION ike

Ray I don't usually recommend Delta tools because of what they done with their P20 scroll saw but that is a different story. I have a Delta contractor saw that has served me well. When they talk of precision with a table saw, set up properly ( properly being the key word} with good sharp blades a Delta contractor saw will do a respectable job. I have built quite a few pieces of furniture with mine with good results.

A couple years ago when I was thinking about a new table saw.. I had a couple people say they really liked this saw from Lowes... It appears to not be available here in my area and it looks like they are discontinuing it.. as they have a different one the same price point.. Maybe if you check around it could be bought cheaper as a clearance model? https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-13-Amp-Table-Saw/1000875384 This is the saw I think might be replacing that one.. https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-Contractor-Saws-10-in-Carbide-Tipped-Blade-15-Amp-Table-Saw/1001385562 I know very little about table saws.. so maybe this is nothing like you're looking for.. but it's closest to the price point you mentioned.. I know it's a lot nicer than my old cheap saw.. and this first link was what I had my mind set on when my bearing went out on mine.. I repaired it so never bit the bullet..