Leaderboard

No, I'm not doing the alphabet. These are for Amos and Bella. The next ones will be for Ryder and Saige so I'll be keeping the alphabetical order theme going. Made with 1 1/2" Red Oak. Pattern is on Steve's page, Scroll Saw Workshop.

This piece was started on a white oak board, 23" x 15" x 1" thick, routed on all sides with a frame molding bit to cut an incorporated frame. Scrollsawing and then power carving with a Foredom rotary power tool was completed. Sanding was done, light selective staining and multiple coats of Wipe-on-Poly were applied. A backer with black satin paint was attached.

I didn't catch that you were talking about a monochrome printer. I've worked wit a lot of color printers over the years. I've never seen red toner or ink cartridges.

The skill saw is basically the same 16” saw everybody else sells, different colors and labels. Wen, skill, Dremel and so on. It uses adapters to mount pin-less blades. It has a vacuum port to hook up a shop vac, but that gets in the way when trying the attach the lower blade clamp. I would only recommend these saws to beginners just learning to scroll.

Christmas JOY - probably my last Christmas pattern this year, and here is my full collection of Christmas patterns, which one do you like more? All Christmas patterns

I'm not an electric motor expert but Hegner uses an induction motor on their scroll saws. Motors with brushes are called universal motors and their variable speed controllers are not designed the same.

I am pretty sure Hegner uses capacitor start motors like what are found in furnaces, air conditioners, etc. These motors use a variable frequency drive to control there speed correctly. The router speed controls are generally variable voltage. Its been a while since I looked into all this; but that router control will likely limit the power of the saw.

I have the Dewalt 734. I actually just used it for the 2nd time a few days ago. I doubt I will ever use it again LOL! The amount sheers it spit out was incredible, and the noise even with my shooting ears on was deafening! I'll let the guys at the lumber yard plane the boards for me. They do it for free anyway. Not worth losing my hearing even more.

I'm also thinking more and more about upgrading my table saw. I bought a nice Incra V27 miter gauge...it won't fit right in the table slot. I hate the fence! It has served it's purpose for the last 2 1/2 yrs, being able to fold up and store on side of shop...but I don't have to put the boat in the shop in the winter any more. So I'm thinking of setting up more of a "real" woodworking shop.

Explanation: I want to print a pattern from my computer and have it come out red. Also copy a B&W pattern and have it come out red. Dan came up with a workable plan. I looked at You Tube and it appears reloading with red is simple. I may go that way.

The biggest issue I had with nicked blades was "Staples" stores put tags etc on the boards with the price or type of wood so workers that have no clue what type of wood is from another type.. after several blade I now have learned to search the whole board for staples.. They usually are on the ends... BUT... one time there was one on the side of the board so I just inspect the edges real well before running a board through. When I first got my planer I was thinking about how much money I could save on pallet wood and other reclaimed wood.. but quickly learned how much more money they cost.. Dust, dirt, grit, etc.. will dull blades real fast.. how you use the thing and types of wood you run through will vary from one person to another.. My planer has little notches where the knife goes and there is not really much to adjust.. and I have no experience in adjusting them.. or maybe I just been lucky and get them in right every time, LOL

I used to have a 6 inch bench top and it was fine for the short narrow pieces I did for cutting boards etc. Had no room when I moved so I gifted it forward. The ideal for a scroller would be a 10 inch but you have to look at the wood you can buy and the projects you want to do and marry them up. If you are going to be doing recycle wood it wise to invest in a metal detector. I have the wand type that can detect my ring thru a 6/4 board even then I missed a couple of nail heads and there went a planer blade.

I think that will get the job done! you may need to anchor yourself to the floor. Regarding the canister filters vs bag the bad stuff is the fine stuff! so if you are going to the trouble putting in a centralized system, in my opinion, a canister filter is a must.

Maybe you can find red (magenta) toner and an empty black toner cartridge and refill it yourself. There are some videos that show how to do this.

Another customer order , made out of 1/2" maple material and primed and painted flat Black . velcro backing .

A Steve Good pattern. And Mimi the Beagle says "MERRY CHRISTMAS"!

Okay, okay, I'm a sucker for gears. Especially gears that do something. I'm a big fan of steampunk/dieselpunk but really dislike how some folks just glue random gears all over things and call it steampunk. They need to be FUNCTIONAL!!! Or at least appear functional. This pattern came in one of Steve Good's daily newsletters the other day, and I had to bump it to the top of my to-be-cut pile. Note: read the instructions several times before drilling pilot holes. Silly me missed the part where the front spinny-piece was to be stack cut. That's a LOT of pilot holes to re-drill, even if the original holes made it easier. Yep, this one was fun to cut. Gears and frame are 1/2" whiteboard, chunks left over from another project. 1/4" ply for the front piece. Stains are Minwax, "Honey" and "Natural" for the dark and the light (respectively), and some teal rattlecan spray for the backer, left over from another project for my wife. Gives it a pop of color.

My phone got messed up and the guy fixed it on the spot. So in return he's getting his kids name in print and script on one base and then his work desk top credentials

I would use wood glue. It only takes a tiny drop or two to hold th small pieces, it allows more time to reposition as needed, and you should be able to do it with no glue squeeze-out. CA can cure very quick and you won't be able to reposition pieces. As for the accelerant, it's mostly acetone and will evaporate very quickly.

I was also curious on this Rocky and saw you can refill cartridges and just substitute Red. My concern is unless I can dedicate that printer to just patterns what happens when I slide a black cartridge in, do I get colored smudges. May need to experiment.

Hello Everyone Thank you for all your input appreciated, adding a speed control box to a single speed scroll saw setup? sounds like maybe it would be best to look for one that already has it built into the machine, than to find out it does not perform properly, with the machine you just purchase- adding a speed control box The last thing I want is a saw that is too fast and aggressive, have to try to get use to the fact that it has no other speed option for cutting intricate parts out. I have never owned a good quality scroll saw for though that do once comfortable with the saw and how it is design to cut material , question how accurate can you cut parts out with a top of the line saw like a Hegner scale model building . Any additional help would be appreciated

beautiful job, there very cute

Gorgeous !!!

Wow! That is really nice! The sentiment is really nice also, Paul. God Bless! Spirithorse

Well done! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

They are on my to do list for after Christmas. Love them, well done. Marg

I love it. Fabulous work. Marg

Fabulous work. Marg

Really like those keepsakes.

Great pattern and very well cut. Great job!

Great cutting and the torched edge is nice.

Well they didn't cut out any of your talent.... Great picture...

Very cute,,, very well done!

Looks good.

My 14" is variable speed. Is yours belt driven?

I have a Dewalt 735 planer and an older Delta 6" open stand jointer. The jointer is the least used piece of equipment in my shop. Now and then I use it to take a cup out of a board. The blade on my table saw is good enough for edge gluing boards.

Small project cut from African Sapele, 13" x 11". The backer board is painted in a random pattern of shades of green.

I think there is a misunderstanding.. he has a red pattern I believe.. but a laser printer that is black and white.. and wanting to get ink so he could print it a brighter red type color.. At least that is what I got from the topic

I'm not an expert but I use a HF router speed control on most of my equipment that is powered by a motor that uses brushes. Just a suggestion.

I assume you are talking a 10 inch for planing rather than jointing? I tried running a 4" board through my small benchtop jointer / plainer and it made the board worst than it originally was, LOL I found it tough to maintain a slow steady feed rate etc.. I never run another board through it.. I use it more for smoothing and squaring up the edges of a board.. I have a regular thickness planer for the top / bottom ( surface ) of the boards and changing the thickness etc.. I personally wouldn't use a bechtop model for trying to plain.. I know they say they are a planer.. but to me for that type work.. a thickness planer is the better tool.

Cheaper to run, quieter, less dust pipe jams, easy to change each blade surface. The only thing else you want is if it kept your beer cold and had a snack tray! OK...dumb question here. I've never owned one, used one, or watched one being used in person. So...how often do the blades get dull? On the standard long type blades, can you/do you sharpen them? Is it hard to get single blades lined up to make a perfectly level cut? If you use "new wood" vs reclaimed wood like pallet, barn, etc. how would nick a blade in either style?

That's a newer machine: has the Quick Clam, front tension release, and the upgraded air line. I am trying to talk the wife into a road trip (we are in Wisconsin, LOL) I would jump on it if it were closer.

Why not just change the color on the pattern? BTW There is not a red toner cartridge.

they are all lovely great work~

Well, they laughed at Einstein too! I love my Hegners and would not give them up. There is, however, a major problem for me. The lower blade clamp. I hate it. It is the only fault I can find on the saws. I had a leftover, homemade Hawk blade clamp so I gave it a try. It works and is so much simpler to load. I will make it shorter with a revised knob and a smaller orifice for the blade. Even without changes it works perfectly. My system for loading is a bit wild but I'll come up with a slotted fixture to hold the clamp for loading. For now the small vise works well. when the blade is tensioned the blade automatically centers itself. Threading the little Hegner holder is over. This quick and easy. It can be done blindfolded.

Ray removing to entire boss Just makes for a cleaner look. I didn't remove mine to top feed just to make it easier to bottom feed especially on larger fretwork