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I posted about this in the "Works in Progress" folder last week. I found some cool looking wood at Lowe's, 3/4" tongue and groove Pine that already has a blueish stain applied to it. I bought a few pieces and played around with them until I got this. Here is a pic with some blue LED's behind it. It looks much better in person than in the pic. I have already sold two more of these. I think they are pretty neat looking,, no two look alike. The below pic is one of the ones that is sold, with and without the lights on. Another one that I have cut out has 2 Palm trees on it that looks pretty neat too.

Made for some friends. Used a log slice from Hobby Lobby,, they call them "coasters". The wife used her Cricut to make the letters and numbers.

This is a H. Botas pattern that I slightly modified to suit a 11X14 panel. The cut panel is 1/8" BB Plywood, left natural, affixed to a 1/4" Mahogny solid core plywood backer that was darkened with Minwax Mahogny stain to improve contrast. Cutting was done with Pegas #0 and #1 spiral Blades. The finished panel was finished with Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a simple custom made poplar frame that was also stained with the same Minwax Mahogny stain and protected with Clear Gloss spray Polyurethane.

This piece was started on a white oak board, 23" x 15" x 1" thick, routed on all sides with a frame molding bit to cut an incorporated frame. Scrollsawing and then power carving with a Foredom rotary power tool was completed. Sanding was done, light selective staining and multiple coats of Wipe-on-Poly were applied. A backer with black satin paint was attached.

Few years ago I started to give Christmas ornaments to each family in my church. These are the ones I made last year. But with the covis this year I won’t be able to do it. Church is on Facebook this season. Steve Good pattern.

Made this for some friends, one of Steve's patterns. They wanted to be able to leave it hanging all year long, so I made the Snowman removeable. I don't have any clear on it in these pics,, the paper pattern is still on the Snowman even! Hey,, it's the right color! 1/2" BB, used a FD UR1

My neighbor just ordered 8 units of various types from me - puzzles, wall hangers etc. So, in gratitude I made them a wall hanger for themselves. Nothing special, but here it is... Thanks as always in advance

Every year I make something for my mother to gift to people who help her out. Both are Steve Good designs, with the second one modified with acrylic angels to see the tree.

This an Alex Fox design. I had a printer snafu when I printed, I guess converting A4 to US letter and everything shrunk down a tiny bit but a few adjustments and it came out well. Backer is Cherry veneer ply, baltic birch for the light layers and cherry hardwood for the ornament backers. Finished it up with Danish Oil. I stack cut the pattern so I have three done. This was a challenging cut at times but quite enjoyable. One of the three is heading to my granddaughters to start the countdown.

Sorry, this is a long story. I found this free SVG pattern of this Jaguar on a website called www.craftsmanspace.com and it was specifically stated as a scroll saw pattern. I’m including a photo file of the presented finished product as shown on the website for you to look at very carefully. If you study the photo you will see that there are many parts of the pattern that are “islands” (eyes, whiskers, fuzzy chin, area above the neck and lower right area). I really do not think this should be touted as a scroll saw pattern, but I liked the image and I decided to try to make it usable. The original SVG pattern was positioned within an A4 border,and when printed, a lot of the cut lines were touching. Many of the cut areas were shown with very wiggly edges (I presume to depict fur). Even when resized and repositioned to suit an 11X14 panel, the pattern is filled with extremely small details that were even smaller that the width of a Pegas 2/0 spiral blade, which I used to cut the panel. Before attempting to use the pattern I spent a lot of hours in Inkscape reworking the pattern to add bridges between “islands” where I could and slightly modifying the pattern. I did not try to add bridges to the eyes and had to glue them to the backer individually. I also added a 1/4” wide perimeter frame as part of the cut panel to allow the panel to lay properly when framed. Using the modified pattern, I cut 1/8” BB Plywood and applied it to a 1/4” BB Plywood backer painted black. After cutting the panel is very flimsy and I had to use a lot of painter tape to hold the cut area together while sanding and staining. Boy of boy, those whiskers were not easy to cut!!! So, following the original photo, I selectively bleached and stained the cut panel. I used Minwax Natural stain tinted with a little orange and brown oil based paint. The eyes are painted with Acrylic craft paint. The 1/4” perimeter cut frame was painted black so it would not be seen under the frame. The panel was finished with spray Lacquer. Again, like I have done before, I made a simple poplar frame and painted it with rattle can Black gloss spray to maintain the illusion of the Pretty Kitty emerging from the darkness. Here is my finished product. Anyone wanting my modified pattern, feel free to message me.

I never use the higher speed on the 735. It is all I can do to push boards in one end and take them out the other end at slow speed. Is that the only difference between the two? I don't know. In the back of my head, I seem to recall that the 734 was more prone to snipe than the 735. It has been too long ago to remember. The infeed/outfeed tables are essential to avoid snipe.

The 735 has slightly more width capacity - 13" vs 12.5" of the 734. Also I think the 735 is supposed to have better chip collection. One advantage of the 734 is that it comes with infeed/outfeed tables, while the basic 735 does not. I have a 734 and like it a lot. I don't use it for a lot of heavy planing, so the single speed has never been an issue for me. It leaves a very nice surface that requires just a little sanding. I've heard of people putting helical cutting heads on the 735. Not sure if the 734 is compatible with them or not.

Just post a ad online to trade a full black toner for a empty one or two.. That might sound a bit suspicious to someone but who knows you might be able to grab a couple of empty ones for a full one so you can experiment.. Get good enough at it you might be able to run a photo though several times with the different toners and print a color photo.. just print with the magenta and then swap to yellow and run the print again, swap to cyan run it through again etc etc.. It'll be interesting to know if you'll be able to do this.. I'd like a laser printer but like you.. I'd like to be able to print patterns in red.. Inhave a color inkjet printer now but if I only use it for color things.. The ink would be dry by the time I need color.. other than the red patterns, LOL and I print enough patterns a year that it would defeat the purpose of having the laser printer.. I just need a color laser printer..

I thought I would try something different. I cut this and it looked like it needed color. So I decided to try cutting colored paper and gluing it to the back out the top layer. Then glue it to the backer and coat with spray polyurethane. I think it turned out pretty well. I thought I would share

No, I'm not doing the alphabet. These are for Amos and Bella. The next ones will be for Ryder and Saige so I'll be keeping the alphabetical order theme going. Made with 1 1/2" Red Oak. Pattern is on Steve's page, Scroll Saw Workshop.

I did three of these for my daughters partner and his sisters. Their father passed away in July. Marg

This piece was cut from white mahogany, 18" x 12". It came with instructions for Safe Distancing long before the Covid epidemic even started!!!!!!!!!

I might be interested.. depending on how much it'd cost... I'm not sure how far north you are from me or what shipping it etc. might cost.. My luck the China made saw that I have probably has different bolt pattern, LOL..

Great job. Frank

I am not sure where you saw scroll saws are designed for a max of 1/4" but I cut wood often up to 1 1/2" (38mm) thick on my scroll saw. 3/4" is really a standard for many projects. Even those of us who stack cut will typically stack 3/4" or more. Now thicker woods do require larger blades. Typically I would use a 2/0 or #1 blade on 1/4" or less and a #5 or #7 on 3/4" or more. For a newbie I would recommend poplar. Pine is softer but the pronounced grain in pine can cause blade control issues as the blade will tend to follow the grain.

Hello SSV Patron Thank you for the information and advice appreciated,Question as I was trying to educate myself a bit more here board thickness and cutting on a scroll saw . I have one project I was trying to do that requires a board thickness of 3/4 but I read somewhere that scroll saws are design to hand a max of 1/4 ? choose of material to work with would be Alder the softest of the hardwoods just above pine and poplar . Any additional help would be appreciated

I've been using the Klingspor Mac Mop 2" x 7" mounted on my lathe for years.... Works great and I have not had a piece break off using them...

Dick, your work is outstanding. Your talent goes far beyond cutting on the line! I also cut most things only once and they are usually either for my shop wall or as gifts to family and friends. I just need to make sure they don't see your work or they'll feel cheated. Thanks for sharing your artwork with us!

Great looking piece. I love Kingfishers. My Father-in-law hates them as they steal fish from his pond.

Fabulous. You did a terrific job. Marg

Has anyone ever changed the bellows on an Ex 21? My saw is 10 years old and the dust blower is so weak now it doesn't clear the sawdust. Looking at the prints not sure if there is one or two bellows and it appears that I have to tear the whole front end apart. It has been suggested to just buy an aquarium pump and use it. That would be my last resort. Would like to fix properly. Might be time for a new saw lol. Thanks for any input. Jeff

Thanks guys, I will look at the saw on the weekend and see what I can do.

Looks like there is only 2 screws holding it in under the top arm. Seyco shows that part for $9.25. I'd give Ray a call to be sure, but don't look there is much involved with it. I'll look tomorrow when I go back into my shop.

I have a question. The DeWalt 735 is $136 more that the 734 (at Lowe's with my 10% veteran's discount). Other than a 2 speed gearbox what is the difference? And what would you really need 2 speeds for?

I have watched a few videos on youtube and they are using a combo Jet joiner/planer that looks really interesting for the small shop. I've got a Delta that seems to work fine but I don't use it much but I hope to in the future. As for a joiner, I've got a Makita portable planer that I have been toying with turning it into a joiner. I am also going to try to do some joining on my cheapo table saw with a good blade. There's a couple of good videos on that subject too.

Whatever you decide to do, it sure sounds like a very messy job to me and could turn into a real fiasco. Best of luck my Friend.

I finally finished this piece for my Son in Law as a gift. Tony helped with the frame. Now I'm having doubts, I see so many flaws. An honest opinion please,, would you be happy to receive this ? Edited to add that this pattern was created by @grampa and found in the library.

a totaly fantastic peice!!! ialso see no flaws....more often then not we are the only ones who see the flaws in our projects...as Mr Monk would say it a blessing and a curse.lol seeing our flaws makes us try harder to make our projects great works of art and a blessing because since no one else can see the flaws we are able to sell our work and give them as presents to make other people happy

2 thumbs up great job!!!

I will give a thumbs up to the Dewalt 735 planer. After ten years and thousands of passes, it still runs strong (and loud). With new blades, the surface is glass smooth. The Dewalt blades dull pretty quickly. Infinity blades are better, but still dull. I change the planer blades yearly (whether they need it or not). Light passes and a good sander are your friend. While I have a jointer, I would also argue that one is not needed for scroll saw work. Put the wood on an MDF sled and run it through the planer will create one flat side. Flip it and thickness the other side. It is difficult for long boards, but easy for short intarsia work.

all are simply woundeful!!!

fantastic!! i use both regular and spiral blades....like you said it just takes pratice.

I'm looking at the DeWalt 734 or Delta 22-555 for a planer. Any thoughts on those two? And a Delta 37-071 or Grizzly G0725 for a jointer. Any thoughts on those two? Does anyone have anything from Grizzly? Or it there another good brand with a comparable model and price to those mentioned?

They look great Marg!

Red toner (magenta) is available on ebay. I think I can empty my black toner and replace it with red. If I want to print in black I have a very nice HP ink jet printer. I just have to convince myself to waste the black toner. I'm not cheap, just frugal.

All of them look great! I have the ornament patterns, but haven't got around to cutting them yet. December 1st...guess I had better get to cutting LOL.

They willlove them. IKE

terrific work

ok, I blew the car up as large as I could and I only found one mistake... I,m not in it!!!

ONYA Marg, they are sure to become annual favourites. When we do the tree, the War Office reminisces over the decorations. Almost all have a special meaning.

Lovely work. Good luck. Marg

Found another pattern I wanted to try out. Problem was that there was a top and front/back side pattern but no sides. I did some finagling on the computer and shrunk the front pattern to match the side dimension. Its 1/4" oak with shellac and lacquer finish. Box is 7 x 6" and 3" high.

Beautiful bowls, Sparkey! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

These parrots are finished in two different ways. One is completed with a natural finish and one is done with colored oil stains. Which do you prefer?