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Wood is some 50 year old pine from shelves we just replaced in our carport room. Pattern is a stencil image from Pinterest. Very time consuming font. The first M took 6 pilot holes.

This is also for the person I made the portrait for. I think Jim knocked this outta the park

This piece was cut and carved from a highly figured maple board, 22" x 16" x 3/4" The frame is red oak with an oil stain. A beautiful sight to capture one of these raptors in action. Nature provides such beauty.

My father-in-law made himself a Nativity scene and he thought that it needed a camel. This is what I came up with. Pattern from Scott.

The season is fast approaching, so I thought it fitting to add to my Christmas projects. This first portrait is an 11X14 Alex Fox Santa pattern cut in 5/32" solid core Maple plywood with a 1/4" thick solid core Mahogany plywood backer stained with Minwax Barn Red. The panel is finished using multiple coat of clear gloss spray Lacquer. A majority of the cutting was done using Pegas #0 spiral blades The panel is set loose in a simple custom Poplar frame that is painted dark rattle spray can Hunt Club Green. I had a difficult time choosing which to use, a standard black backer or the red backer as both looked good to me. So I let my lady, Robin, chose and she selected the Red. She also suggested the green frame. My second portrait was inspired by recent postings by Woodrush of his very well done Jim Blume Pattern Gandalf. I have had the H. Botas Gandalf pattern in my "TO DO" pile for a while, but I kind of liked the background on the JB version slightly better. However, I was unable to find the JB pattern so I used Inkscape to modify the HB pattern to be similar and fit an 11x14 panel. When comparing the two patterns, I did note that the HB pattern was quite a bit more detailed and required a lot of holes. This cutting was also done in solid core 5/32" Maple plywood with a 1/8" BB backer painted rattle spray can Gloss Black. All cutting was done using Pegas #2/0 spiral blades and the panel was again finished with multiple coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a custom Poplar frame that I distressed and stained with Minwax Espresso (dark brown - almost black) and then protected it with multiple coats of clear spray Polyurethane.

I made this for my nephew, a Steve Good pattern. In order to get the money, you have to break it because all the layers have been glued.

Each year I make gifts for the teachers at my daughters school. She is the principal. This year it is mini birdhouses. Numbers way down this year as some of the teachers reassigned to the virtual school.

Made this for my nephew, he has to break it apart to get the $$$$. All layers have been glued together. I know you guys will call me mean Santa.

Hi All Made a bowl to hold the Christmas chocolates. Looks better than a plastic tub. Getting chocolates saturday so will upload another pic when its filled. Also need to varnish it first before filling up with choc's

I had a customer give me a bit of a challenge asking for a double dog leash holder... It came out pretty nice if I do say so myself. And an example of a "typical" one also a custom order this past Saturday.

I give ornaments to my nieces & nephews every year. The compound cut ones are for them, Sue Mey pattern. The grandson and grandnephew are getting the puzzles. The son-in-law is getting the shelf.

Pattern or no, you did an awesome job. Well done. Here is the pattern for anyone else who may want to cut it.

These three pregnant mother silhouettes I have made this year for the three 2nd grade teachers in my daughter's school. I think they will love them because they will be able to place a baby or ultrasound picture on the heart.

Did a couple of these earlier this year, finally got the second one a home. We'd gotten our daughter some horse-riding lessons (in part to help with anger management, part to just get her out of the house and into the sunlight for a while!), so it just made sense. Plus, my wife says I make her enough stuff during the year, she doesn't need anything more at Christmas time. She'd prefer something more....sparkly. LOL

Our friends dog is nearing the end of his journey so Russ did this off thier favorite pic of him. Sorry I don't have the original pic she sent to show how close the pattern is

@NC Scroller The later models of Hegners have a round hole in the table where the blade goes through as opposed to the rectangular holes in the early models. It comes with a metal insert that reduces the size of the hole and you can buy plastic replacement inserts that you drill the size hole you want for the blade to actually go through... Give you options for zero clearance inserts for less tear out.. I make my own inserts for my saw.

My Jet came with a laser. I never use it, never could get it adjusted properly so it is not accurate. More important to me is having a chuck that closes all the way. Mine does. My last drill press did not and I had to use a small chuck within the press chuck... Tried several and they all wobbled... The second thing for me is the crank up/down table,,,, I agree it is a must. What I do not like about my current press is the depth stop... It is the one with two sloppy bolts that you have to screw up or down to set the stop..... Just a pain to deal with, but I live with it... I use the table as my depth of stop more then the bolt one.

I bought a WEN drill press a few years ago to replace my HF unit. I liked the 6" throat for the range of drilling my scroll plaques. It is tall, 2' shaft but the chuck will take the smallest drill bits and I don't have to change belt location to change speeds. It does have a digital read out for the speeds. The crank lift is great. It comes with a laser and I was happy with it until one went dim. Contacted Wen and they sent me a new one under warranty. Little did I know that it would involve the equivalent of brain surgery to replace. I had to do a fair amount of disassembly to get it out and had to use a snake to feed the wire. Alignment wasn't too bad. Connections should have been on the mounting side of the lasers. It's working fine now and I am happy with this drill press.

Kevin Take a look. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Palmgren-10-in-Swing-5-Speed-Bench-Step-Pulley-Drill-Press-9680110/304206390?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_9_PORTABLE_POWER-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PortablePower_PLA-71700000034127218-58700003933021540-92700051577220114&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WEuQceVWu4jki7pS5M3IuqcDPO2fLNNkYMldresopBy3iSwEZJ1TwEaAm4sEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I bought one about 15/17 years ago and it is very accurate. It's cast iron and very heavy. I only use it a couple of times a week and not very long either. Not sure if it is still made in America. The company is American. They have been in business for about 100 years and are based in Naperville, IL. Worth a look and reasonably priced. Ben

I guess this could be called "How to get the most from your drill press laser cross hair units". The double laser line generators for drill presses can be quite handy, but getting them adjusted so that they are accurate over a distance of table travel requires some careful calibration. I have 3 Delta drill presses, 2 table models and one floor standing. The floor standing came with a laser unit, but it was no where near accurate when I first attempted to use it. Raise or lower the table height and the crossing point would move significantly, like as much as 2 inches, requiring a different setting every time the table or height of the work on it changed. It was more trouble than it was worth at this point. I studied the problem with it for a while, and realized that the laser line generators were not adjusted to produce perfectly vertical lines. Fixing this required partial dis-assembly of the laser unit to be able to loosen the lasers so I could activate them and then rotate each laser until it's generated line was perfectly vertical, and then re-assemble the unit, hoping to not loose the vertical line setting in the process. To get them adjusted to be perfectly vertical, I installed a 4" piece of 1/2" diameter steel or aluminum rod that I had sharpened the bottom end of to a sharp centered point (spin in drill press chuck and use a metal file to cut the angled point), installing it in the drill chuck and verifying that it's point remained centered when the drill press chuck was rotated manually. I had also painted this rod with white paint and let it dry before using it. Getting the two laser line generators to project their lines perfectly vertical on the back side of the white rod was a little difficult, but I was able to do it and tighten their clamps to hold them in place within about an hour. Then I clamped a piece of scrap pine on the table and lowered the drill chuck, without the drill press running, and made a conical dent in the pine board. This conical dent then became my alignment target. Since both lasers were now projecting their lines perfectly vertical, I then used a pair of slip joint pliers to lightly grip each one of the laser adjustment knobs one at a time and with the long handles of the pliers it was easy to make slight horizontal adjustments of each laser until their lines perfectly crossed over the center of the conical dent in the pine board. I adjusted each laser this way and re-checked that they both crossed at the exact center of the conical dent. I then lowered the drill press table and re-checked the laser lines at different table positions. Since the table can move horizontally when unlocked, I just moved the table at each level until the conical dent in the pine and the lasers again intersected. If any adjustment isn't correct, it will be very obvious as you lower the table. If adjusted perfectly, the lasers and the conical dent center point should all meet at any table height setting. I have since added two Wixey laser units to my bench height drill presses. These are significantly better quality units than the Delta and both required very little adjustment to get good vertical lines from them. I used the same slip joint plier technique to fine position each laser horizontally to get the laser lines to cross at the conical dimple in the pine board, just as I had when adjusting the laser head on the floor standing Delta drill press. The attachment of the Wixey unit to the post of the drill press is a much better design than the Delta and a stainless auto radiator type hose clamp is used to securely attach the Wixey unit to the drill press post. Attach it as high as you possibly can, right under the head of the drill press, or you will be repeating this step later (DAMHIKT). With all three drill presses, I can now use the laser crossing points to locate where the drill bit will make the hole at any table height without any need to adjust the lasers. I can just turn them on and use them. They now cross at the same point at any table height and exactly where the drill bit will make the hole. The Delta lasers do not make as fine of a laser line as the Wixey lasers do, but I'm usually doing work on the floor standing drill press that requires less accuracy anyway. Most of my scroll saw pattern type work is drilled on either of the two bench top drill presses, however I am considering replacing the Delta unit with another Wixey unit anyway. I don't always use the lasers, but they sure are handy when drilling a hundred or so scroll saw blade entry holes. I can quickly move the wood and pattern from one blade hole position to the next one to be drilled very quickly, and I know that each hole drilled will be exactly where I want it. I am considering modifying each of the laser units to connect them to 9 vdc power supplies and get rid of the batteries (the power supplies being considered are the wall wort type) that will only be powered when the drill press is running. Far too often I have left the lasers on and come back in a few days to find that that the battery is dead, again. 9 volt Duracell batteries get expensive, if you have to replace them too often DAMHIKT. I

Nice! I like the Santa a little better, his expression is that "HE" may have been a little naughty himself! I may have to get that pattern. I wanted to do another one this year on a wood slice like I did last year but with a different Santa. I would probably have to reduce it a little smaller to fit on the wood slice. This was my one from last year. I used red felt as the backer.

Finished this order of 20 Grinch ornaments today. Painted with craft paints and a clear matte finish.

This piece was started on a white oak board, 23" x 15" x 1" thick, routed on all sides with a frame molding bit to cut an incorporated frame. Scrollsawing and then power carving with a Foredom rotary power tool was completed. Sanding was done, light selective staining and multiple coats of Wipe-on-Poly were applied. A backer with black satin paint was attached.

Sorry, this is a long story. I found this free SVG pattern of this Jaguar on a website called www.craftsmanspace.com and it was specifically stated as a scroll saw pattern. I’m including a photo file of the presented finished product as shown on the website for you to look at very carefully. If you study the photo you will see that there are many parts of the pattern that are “islands” (eyes, whiskers, fuzzy chin, area above the neck and lower right area). I really do not think this should be touted as a scroll saw pattern, but I liked the image and I decided to try to make it usable. The original SVG pattern was positioned within an A4 border,and when printed, a lot of the cut lines were touching. Many of the cut areas were shown with very wiggly edges (I presume to depict fur). Even when resized and repositioned to suit an 11X14 panel, the pattern is filled with extremely small details that were even smaller that the width of a Pegas 2/0 spiral blade, which I used to cut the panel. Before attempting to use the pattern I spent a lot of hours in Inkscape reworking the pattern to add bridges between “islands” where I could and slightly modifying the pattern. I did not try to add bridges to the eyes and had to glue them to the backer individually. I also added a 1/4” wide perimeter frame as part of the cut panel to allow the panel to lay properly when framed. Using the modified pattern, I cut 1/8” BB Plywood and applied it to a 1/4” BB Plywood backer painted black. After cutting the panel is very flimsy and I had to use a lot of painter tape to hold the cut area together while sanding and staining. Boy of boy, those whiskers were not easy to cut!!! So, following the original photo, I selectively bleached and stained the cut panel. I used Minwax Natural stain tinted with a little orange and brown oil based paint. The eyes are painted with Acrylic craft paint. The 1/4” perimeter cut frame was painted black so it would not be seen under the frame. The panel was finished with spray Lacquer. Again, like I have done before, I made a simple poplar frame and painted it with rattle can Black gloss spray to maintain the illusion of the Pretty Kitty emerging from the darkness. Here is my finished product. Anyone wanting my modified pattern, feel free to message me.

This is a H. Botas pattern that I slightly modified to suit a 11X14 panel. The cut panel is 1/8" BB Plywood, left natural, affixed to a 1/4" Mahogny solid core plywood backer that was darkened with Minwax Mahogny stain to improve contrast. Cutting was done with Pegas #0 and #1 spiral Blades. The finished panel was finished with Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The panel is set loose in a simple custom made poplar frame that was also stained with the same Minwax Mahogny stain and protected with Clear Gloss spray Polyurethane.

Made this for some friends, one of Steve's patterns. They wanted to be able to leave it hanging all year long, so I made the Snowman removeable. I don't have any clear on it in these pics,, the paper pattern is still on the Snowman even! Hey,, it's the right color! 1/2" BB, used a FD UR1

Yeah that is how I've always tighten the chuck as well, was taught that in machine shop in high school.. This drill press I have was a parts machine that the motor run on, had no chuck but I had one from another broke motor drill press and it fit.. I gave $3 for it and have been using it for 12 years.. I was pretty worn and sloppy when I bought it.. but it worked for what I used it for.. The mini chuck I have is pretty off balance and the worn press doesn't help it any.. It even wobbles in my handheld drill.. I think when I buy my new drill press I'll make sure it will hold those tiny number drill bits.. glad I posted because I never thought about that until it was mentioned above..

Yes sir, still going strong. I was fortunate to have my local weekly market this year but all of my big events of course were cancelled.

I have a wen drill press with a 'X' cross hair pointer Basically, it sucks and I don't use it. It is off by 1/16" and I have no desire to try and align it!

Looks great Charlie. Love the fornt.

fantastic job

Awesome job.

Excellent work, Charlie! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

I've found that the accelerator makes CA somewhat brittle and the joint is easier to break. For permanent joints I would avoid it. Titebond II or III should work better.

Normally I'd agree with Dan on the letters, but I really like the way these letters came out. It gives it dimension. Great project!

Kitty,s looking to get in big trouble! Very nice work, high detail!!!

Since I live in a home that is 1600 square feet, this shop is larger than my abode. For sure it's a great example of what money can buy. But, I'll bet that most all of us are just as happy with what we have now. Sure, I'd love to have some more space but I'm very content in knowing that I'm far better off than many.

Kevin I live in Midland 48642 so its about 120 miles one way so at 20 miles a gallon ( gas in my area today is $1.79 a gal) so a round trip it would be about $25.00?

The last blade I bought on Ebay and came from China for 25.99 with free shipping. They have been great. https://www.ebay.com/itm/13-Replacemet-Planer-knives-Replace-For-DeWalt-DW735-DW735X-DW7352-Set-of-3/254103355802 Make sure you have some good ear protection because this sucker is loud.

I bought a Cutech. It has the helical cutter. My neighbor was surprised how quiet it is. It does a great job and I am very happy with it. When I can afford a planer I am going to buy it from them also.

Very nice! That had to take some time.

I sand before and after with my Bocsh random orbital sander and have never had any issues with breaking ornaments or anything.. I use the dollar store anti slip drawer liner things to sand on and the grip the wood so it doesn't go flying, LOL I turn the sander speed down on small or fragile stuff.. and lightly place the sander onto the projects and just go easy with it.. Everything I make gets sanded before and after cutting.. Look at my website and you'll see all the things I make ( sand ).. some are quite fragile..

I sand before cutting. Then use a mop sander in drill press to get the fuzzy off. If a lot of detail can use a propane torch turned low to burn them off.

Few years ago I started to give Christmas ornaments to each family in my church. These are the ones I made last year. But with the covis this year I won’t be able to do it. Church is on Facebook this season. Steve Good pattern.

A champagne glass for New Years! Very nice Barry!

amazing job

Brenda, as all above have said, we are our worst critic. Whenever I have a project that I have cut and I know it has flaws, I will set it aside for a wile, then I’ll come back to it in a week or two. Most times, the flaws disappear, or at least not noticeable. Your cutting looks great! If I owned that car, I would be thrilled to receive it as a gift, As long as I have been cutting, I don’t think I have cut a perfect project, but I have learned to fix most of my mistakes!

It's been said many times, "We are our worst critics"!! The problems you see are because you know where they are based on the pattern. Pattern is in the waste can and cutting is framed and looks good. I'm not going to search for what I think MIGHT be an issue. It will look good on the wall.

I've been experimenting with doing compound cuts and designing my own figures. You are severely limited on the size of the objects you can produce, but it is fun to experiment. I saw a heart figure which morphs into two lovers kissing, on line, so I thought I'd try making one of those. I didn't have a pattern so I designed my own. It was easy to make the side view, but when I had to do the back/front view I had to experiment. Didn't come out too bad, but might try again with some tweaks. Tried making my dragon (used as part of the pen holder), and same problem occurred. Had to experiment with the back/front view. Well, anyway, I thought I'd pass my findings along. You might find it fun to cut these. If you are not sure how to do these cuts check out my video on cutting vases. I cut my figures from 2 x 4" material cut to 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" about 6" long. Can download patterns from my Free Page: http://baggetta.com/pebooks/puzzle_patterns.htm