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Thank you for the pattern Mahendra. Wood is 1/8" BB with a laminate finish. #1 PMG.

A piece of hard maple, 27" x 13 1/2", was used to create this collection of giraffes. Each one has a unique personality.

Been ultra busy with pups for a while, but now back at my saw trying to catch up on the last of my Christmas requests. cat trio + word plaque done on the scrollsaw - dog done with a router.

My Wife's dentist dental assistant just had a baby and wanted to give her a gift. Found a great drawing and added the name and date. Cut on 1/8" BBPW with a 1/4" backer, Shellac and Gloss Lacquer finish. Will drop it off tomorrow.

Inspired by a post by Charlie E "Initial Ornaments", I decided to try my hand at these reatively simple Steve Good Ornament poatterns. I made the clamp he suggested with the patterns for holding the block while cutting. I used 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" Poplar I purchased at Lowes. Nice and square and cuts well. The cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R blade. The Red ones are stained and lacqured, the green trees simply spray painted. As I was informed, these are not very dificult and that was correct. Centering the hole for the hanging hook was the most difficult. I do not have a drill press and the pre-drilled hole in the block was not perfectly vertical in the red ornaments. I waited to drill the holes in the Green trees until after the cut was completed. Using my small drill bit in my dremel i still had difficulty centering the hole. This was a fun little project and these will be hung on my tree. However, I don't think I will be doing much compound work in the future. Not quite my preference for the kind of work I like to do. In case you are wondering they are hanging on a stretched piece of fishing line .

I apologise for another long story. A couple of recent post showing a box projects got me looking for one I might like to do. I found a Steve Good box pattern called Hummerbox, which has a Hummingbird and flowers in the top panel (Perfect for another Christmas Present for my lady). As downloaded, the box was 7”L x 4”W x 3 ½” H and was suggested to use 1/4” thick material. The pattern was for notch and tab construction which left panel edges exposed. The pictures which came with the pattern showed using painted backer to highlight the scrollwork, an idea I liked very much. I decided on this cut pattern for my first box as it was relatively simple, but did not think the box size was correct and I did not like the method of the box construction. My previous woodworking (BC scroll saw work) box building skills prevailed, so changes were necessary. After converting the PDF pages to a JPG file and then inserting the images into Inkscape, I used the TRACE BITMAP command to make an editable pattern. I then did some editing to increase the box size to 10” L x 5 1/2” W x 5” H and eliminated the notches and tabs. I converted the line work to red with a light gray fill at the same time. I cut the scroll work out of 5/32” thick Maple solid core plywood and created duplicate size backer panels out of 5/32” thick Walnut solid core plywood. I darkened the Walnut backers with Minwax Walnut stain to improve the contrast. The backers were glued to the cut panels (which I had stack cut) forming 5/16” thick side, end and top panels. After the glue up of the panels was complete, I used my table saw to create a nominal 1/8” W x 1/8” D dado for a 1/8” x 9 ¾” L x 5 ¼” W BB ply bottom panel. I then stack cut the glued up panels to remove the bottom cut out area between the legs. Like the process I use for the Oak Hummingbird Lamp I previously made, I beveled the vertical edges of the end and side panels with my vertical belt sander to 45 degrees, which allowed the box to be assembled with clean sharp corners. Before final assembly and glue up, I applied Red Felt to the interior face of the box walls and bottom using contact cement. Since the top is also two layers of plywood, the edges are exposed in this design and I was not happy with how it looked. I used my router to create an L-shaped trim piece out of some solid maple that I applied like a frame to the top and hung down about 1/8” all around which acts as a lid keeper for the un-hinged top. (This worked but, if I was to build this box again, I would do the top differently, using 3/8” or ½” thick solid wood instead of plywood with and undersized ¼” thick backer that would act as the keeper. if I can find a piece of Solid maple I may redo the top for this box.) Here is my version of the Hummingbird Box. And, just for your information I've attached the Steve Good PDF. hummerbox.pdf Late edit: As I looked at my box I think a big upgrade in the design would be a felt lined drop in comparmented tray easily constructed of 1/8" plywood. My Lady is a jewleryholic and never has enough storage for her jewlery.

Made this for my 7 year old great grandson for Christmas. Solid 3/4" walnut. A few boo boo's. I have done better.

A Jim Blume pattern

The reason you can’t remove the interior waste is your cut is angled rather than straight up and down. Check that the blade is at a perfect 90° to the table. If it is, you are applying lateral pressure on the blade when making your turns. You have to let the blade do the cutting. If you go off the line, pull back a little instead of trying to push the blade back to the line.

So many I did and doing them I try modifications which work out!!!

HI all This morning in my daily email I get from Steve Good he had this pattern of two sizes of gnomes. I made the little one out of BB plywood. It turned out cute I think

I have long been annoyed at the aluminum tables on my scroll saws. I've had Ryobi, Grizzly, Hawk and presently two Hegners. The aluminum leaves black residue on the back of the work and the surface is not slick. I've used Johnson paste wax and silicone sprays. Neither were satisfactory. Some on this site use magnetic backed Melamine or similar material but that only works on steel tables. I found a thin adhesive backed counter top material to use. It's cheap. $5.99 on Amazon. I made a couple mistakes. First I taped the material upside down to the table and traced around the table with a felt Sharpie. I then cut the shape with a scissors. I then tried to position it on the table and missed and got it off to one side. I then discovered I could trim the surplus nicely with a sharp knife. I have enough material to do it over but will use it as is for now. What a difference. Makes scrolling a joy the way the project slides around so well. Also because the white surface is so bright it makes it easier for bottom feeders to find the little drill holes.

Nice job Les. I went a different route on covering my table. I used tempered hardboard, and flat head machine screws to hold it on. I put a couple of coats of thinned polyurethane on it, which soaked into the hardboard and toughened the top even more. Then I waxed the top, and re-wax occasionally. It works real well, one waxing will last for a long time. I did this on my last two scroll saws. The wood will slide over the top like it had been greased, and it cannot harm the back. The material is dark, so it doesn't help with seeing under the wood, but I don't have a problem with that anyway. Tom

I like it!

I have a question for you. Where do you buy your weed? Do they have a site that I could order from? jerry

Looks good, RJ

Awesome!! I agree with all, great pattern and great cutting!

This depends on the type of laser and the focal point of the beam.. if you laser on a thick board and you do not have a adjustable bed the focal point changes.. Not sure you ever played with a magnifying glass outside in the sun as a kid.. but getting the sun to shine through the magnifying glass and changing the distance could make a fine point of heat which you could set things on fire, LOL Anyway to answer the question.. my laser will a 2mm path of cut or engrave.. Think the smallest mechanical pensile lead refills are 5mm? I know they have a 5mm and a 7mm.. so yes this will do some real fine detail work.. A CNC router will not do the fine detail link a scroll saw will.. Yes the edges of the plywood are a dark caramel colored on laser cut stuff sometimes even kind of black color depending on the wood type and how hot you have the laser set at or how fast / slow running speed is.. so it can vary depending on the set-up.. I've seen folks get just the right setting and it's a light caramel color.. I haven't got mine narrowed down that good yet.. LOL

I have 2 cats myself and far too many dogs.

My guess is you're pushing to hard on the blade which is making it not cut straight up / down.. If the saw was not square you should be able to push the center out on one of the sides ( ie if it doesn't push out the bottom try flipping it over and push it out the top it should push or even fall out but if you are bowing the blade by pushing too hard then it possibly just not going to come out either side).

There really isn’t anything you can do except include in the listing: Handcrafted using a scroll saw. I have that on most of my listings. There is a a button that lets you report the review. I’ve never used it so I don’t know how far you can take it.

Since your saw and the Dewalt are clones there is a ton of useful info on scrollsaws.com. I think both of the suggestions that have been suggested so far are valid but check out the other hints there for further reference. Get familiar with your saw.

I think it might be aliens inside the saw.. when you took it apart they seen you and got scared so they ran deeper into the saw to hide.. You should just take it apart and leave it for a month so they have time to escape.

customers - I had one that said she loved it, but wished it was larger. Huh??? I have the size clearly stated in the listing, if you would only look! Or ask for a custom item like that only bigger. Just can't please everybody.

You guys are amazing. Thank you so much. Never occurred to me to raise the back of the saw but I will do that. I need to look at a stool. I have an old office chair out there and I could also LOWER the saw and make it so that chair works for me. I just started this journey and your advice is so much appreciated. So, now that I have some pointers, is there anywhere to buy spiral blades with t-shanks? I can't find them on Amazon and my google search was inconclusive. If not how good are the conversion kits to put a shankless blade on my saw?

I had to tighten the motor on the delta that I have at school. I don't remember exactly what the symptom was that I was fixing but it helped tremendously. Before I tightened it I could grab the motor and wiggle it back and forth so it was really loose.

I retired & gave my 40-694 to a son. Here is what I had to do; Remove the switch. Remove the tension lever. The tension rod was hitting the metal below the switch & leaving a mark. Pushed the rod to the side & filled a groove in the metal with a chainsaw file. That cured it for me, but not sure it sounds like your problem. jerry

Anyway you can point to the screws in one of these pictures,,, like edit the picture with an arrow. Hegner_Multimax_22v_parts_diagram-3.pdf Or part number(S) from the attached diagram?

Nice work and a nice gift! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Looks like it'll work. I used Teflon spray about 5 years ago and it's still pretty slick.

Nice work! Panel looks thick. Details would be nice.

The only boo boo I see is the clock is off,, it's 2:12 pm! LOL Nice job.

Nice job, Frank. Did you dip the red ones in the stain? I like them colored as you have done. I am surprised you were successful with that small of a blade. I haven't done a whole lot of compound cutting so I just assumed I had to use at least a #3 or larger. I do like compound cutting. It always amazes me what it looks like when the waste is removed. Kind of like packaging present.

Great job... I hope you dated it and said who from somewhere on it...

That's craftsmanship

very nice job

You do mighty fine work, ike

Very well made pieces Brenda. I love them all. Your routing is becoming quite a feature and I may have to look at doing some of that.

Fantastic, he'll treasure it always

Great work Les! If she is a fan of the caricature, she is going to love it!

HI, I use the dremel workstation alongside my regular drill press. Then I drill bigger holes with a 1/16 bit and whatever size blade I am using a use a wire bit. works great. You can get wire bits from widget supply on the internet Bill

The chuck on my drill press closes to hold the smallest drill bit (#64) that I typically use. No pin vise needed. As for a chart for drill sizes, I match the drill size to the blade dimension. Not all #3 blades have the same dimension across manufacturers.

I have been ask several times the same question and I have to explain how to tell the difference, IKE

I have that saw and recently experienced something similar.... The motor on mine was loose. I didn't notice it until I heard the "banging" noise. I took it apart, tightened up the hold down screws and no problems since. Other than that, not sure what your issue could be. Perhaps someone with more XP will chime in...

The fill command does not work well.

I'm anxious to see what they say also. There are two setting on a Hegner, but I think it they are related to depth of cut or something else.

That does seem more to me than I would expect. I'd contact Advance Machinery. It is under warranty and if you do much yourself you may void the warranty.

I took the top and bottom blade holder assemblies off but the screw holes are not slotted. I was hoping I could move the top one back or the bottom one forward. On your saw is the blade perfectly perpendicular to the table?

I know what you mean some call aggressive cut. I saw dewalt Fix. Iv been looking on u tube but can't find any. So what I find out for you?....nothing. You can leave me a big thx for nothing!! Lol