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Full size plan from https://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/product/Gun_Rack_Wood_Project_Plan/Other-Furniture-Woodcraft-Patterns I used Red Oak and finshied with Watco Medium Walnut. A very nice easy to follow plan at a reasonable cost.

Another papercutting lightbox design I found on Etsy. Five layers, the top layer with all the frilly edging, was the worst part to cut. I have an LED light strip behind it, and used thin strips of 1/2" ply to separate the layers. The rest is 1/4 bbp. Stained Minwax Natural. Frame is some extra 1/2" ply, trimmed down to size. I left the top and bottom longer, I like the overlapped look and the wife is happy as well. The LED strip fades between colors, these are teal/purple/red, but the camera on my phone doesn't really show them well. The pics were taken before I put the LED strips fully in place, they're still wrapped around the spool and leaning up against the back. The light is much more even now.

I did a few of Bobby Riggs 2020 ornaments the other day. A friend in south TX wanted to know if I could put their name in it. So I got ahold of Bobby and told him what I wanted, he came up with a spot I could insert a name! After I got it into Inkscape I managed to get the name in it, and out to the shop I went. About 2 hrs. and 47 holes later I dipped it in Watco Natural. And thanks to Don in Brooklin for helping me with a problem in Inkscape!

The framework for this project is made of black walnut. The size is 41" x 16" and features wolf footprints that are filled with a mixture of blue/green gemstone powder embedded in clear acrylic gel. At first glance, it might appear that the wolf plaques are made from vertical slices of wood from a log. However, slices cut like that would be very unstable especially with all the fret holes that were required to be cut with these scrollsaw patterns. The animal plaques were made from 9" diameter circles cut from a curly maple board that was 1 1/2" thick. The edges were carved to simulate a raw bark edge. The wolves eyes were inlaid similar to the paw prints. The faces were stained with a dry brush technique utilizing a mixture of oil paints in polyurethane in multiple light coats. Everything is finished with Wipe-on-Poly.

We are a Catan family and everyone owns the game. My son asked me to cut the board pieces on wood. So I used 1/8 Baltic birch plywood and photocopied the pieces and glued them on. Then my son son jokingly requested a box to put the pieces in. So my husband and I thought that it would be a good challenge for us. The box is made from 3/4”Wormy Maple with stained 1/4” Baltic birch top and bottom. The containers inside the box are 3/4” Western Cedar. The walls I designed on paper in a basket weave. The box measures 18 1/4” X 12 1/4” and 3 3/4” tall. With all the board pieces inside it weighs 11.6 lbs. We used a hole saw bit for the holes in the box and the rest was scrolled. We used Amber Shellac for the finish, which is why the wormy maple has an amber tint to it.

I apologise for another long story. A couple of recent post showing a box projects got me looking for one I might like to do. I found a Steve Good box pattern called Hummerbox, which has a Hummingbird and flowers in the top panel (Perfect for another Christmas Present for my lady). As downloaded, the box was 7”L x 4”W x 3 ½” H and was suggested to use 1/4” thick material. The pattern was for notch and tab construction which left panel edges exposed. The pictures which came with the pattern showed using painted backer to highlight the scrollwork, an idea I liked very much. I decided on this cut pattern for my first box as it was relatively simple, but did not think the box size was correct and I did not like the method of the box construction. My previous woodworking (BC scroll saw work) box building skills prevailed, so changes were necessary. After converting the PDF pages to a JPG file and then inserting the images into Inkscape, I used the TRACE BITMAP command to make an editable pattern. I then did some editing to increase the box size to 10” L x 5 1/2” W x 5” H and eliminated the notches and tabs. I converted the line work to red with a light gray fill at the same time. I cut the scroll work out of 5/32” thick Maple solid core plywood and created duplicate size backer panels out of 5/32” thick Walnut solid core plywood. I darkened the Walnut backers with Minwax Walnut stain to improve the contrast. The backers were glued to the cut panels (which I had stack cut) forming 5/16” thick side, end and top panels. After the glue up of the panels was complete, I used my table saw to create a nominal 1/8” W x 1/8” D dado for a 1/8” x 9 ¾” L x 5 ¼” W BB ply bottom panel. I then stack cut the glued up panels to remove the bottom cut out area between the legs. Like the process I use for the Oak Hummingbird Lamp I previously made, I beveled the vertical edges of the end and side panels with my vertical belt sander to 45 degrees, which allowed the box to be assembled with clean sharp corners. Before final assembly and glue up, I applied Red Felt to the interior face of the box walls and bottom using contact cement. Since the top is also two layers of plywood, the edges are exposed in this design and I was not happy with how it looked. I used my router to create an L-shaped trim piece out of some solid maple that I applied like a frame to the top and hung down about 1/8” all around which acts as a lid keeper for the un-hinged top. (This worked but, if I was to build this box again, I would do the top differently, using 3/8” or ½” thick solid wood instead of plywood with and undersized ¼” thick backer that would act as the keeper. if I can find a piece of Solid maple I may redo the top for this box.) Here is my version of the Hummingbird Box. And, just for your information I've attached the Steve Good PDF. hummerbox.pdf Late edit: As I looked at my box I think a big upgrade in the design would be a felt lined drop in comparmented tray easily constructed of 1/8" plywood. My Lady is a jewleryholic and never has enough storage for her jewlery.

A Jim Blume pattern

HI all This morning in my daily email I get from Steve Good he had this pattern of two sizes of gnomes. I made the little one out of BB plywood. It turned out cute I think

The resolution was that I quit worrying about it and scrolled. It's a work horse saw. Would not give it up. Some projects I like using my Pegas. It is more aggressive and faster cutting.

Inspired by a post by Charlie E "Initial Ornaments", I decided to try my hand at these reatively simple Steve Good Ornament poatterns. I made the clamp he suggested with the patterns for holding the block while cutting. I used 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" Poplar I purchased at Lowes. Nice and square and cuts well. The cutting was done with Pegas #1 MGT R blade. The Red ones are stained and lacqured, the green trees simply spray painted. As I was informed, these are not very dificult and that was correct. Centering the hole for the hanging hook was the most difficult. I do not have a drill press and the pre-drilled hole in the block was not perfectly vertical in the red ornaments. I waited to drill the holes in the Green trees until after the cut was completed. Using my small drill bit in my dremel i still had difficulty centering the hole. This was a fun little project and these will be hung on my tree. However, I don't think I will be doing much compound work in the future. Not quite my preference for the kind of work I like to do. In case you are wondering they are hanging on a stretched piece of fishing line .

Been ultra busy with pups for a while, but now back at my saw trying to catch up on the last of my Christmas requests. cat trio + word plaque done on the scrollsaw - dog done with a router.

@RabidAlienKirk, just posted a beautiful project cut from a "Paper Cutting" pattern. If you are interested in finding these type of patterns to scroll, try searching for "scherenschnitte" in Google Images. You will get a lot more hits and variety then "Paper cutting". https://www.google.com.au/search?q=scherenschnitte&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj2ieLFl8btAhUiwjgGHT8pCYwQ_AUoAXoECAUQAw&biw=1920&bih=919

A piece of hard maple, 27" x 13 1/2", was used to create this collection of giraffes. Each one has a unique personality.

Made this for my 7 year old great grandson for Christmas. Solid 3/4" walnut. A few boo boo's. I have done better.

Thank you for the pattern Mahendra. Wood is 1/8" BB with a laminate finish. #1 PMG.

I did buy some 6” from Lowe’s that was green it had thin wall don’t know if pvc fittings will work with it. I think the pvc would work fine .

Dave, go to the contractor's desk at H/D and get with one of Pros who do special orders. They know what they are doing and should be able to advise you.

No problem here in California. You can even have it delivered!

I have a question for you. Where do you buy your weed? Do they have a site that I could order from? jerry

Interesting post because I'm right in the middle of building a mobile saw/router table right now. My existing work bench has been in place since the mid 80's and has served me well. The bench is 10' long x 42" wide bowling lane with a mid 60's craftsman table saw mounted to the left and the out feed table was a kindergarten desk top that I made into a router table. Perfect set up for a Biesemeyer fence but I could never justify the cost. Between the saw & table I'm under 150.00. I am able to cut 19" to the left & by tacking a straight edge to the work bench I can cut up to 50" to the right. pre router pic. I've spent the better part of this year downsizing & rearranging the tools on the outside 3 walls of the shop. Now that that is done I find myself walking around the bench more and the size of my projects don't really call for a bench this size. The last big project on the bench is a new bench. The whole trick now is to finish the new one up until the point, which I'm about there, I put the saw in its new home. The saw will sit on the low side with the switch to the right and the top flush with a new router table. I plan to put track into the router table that with allow me to use a homemade fence for the table saw to cut 25" to the right, enough to cut a sheet in half.

I have 2 cats myself and far too many dogs.

@octoolguy Sure does Ray. My knees don't like it very much these days

I can find 6" PVC. Being the walls are so thick won't it be too big?

I really like the pattern. That would look good on the top of a box. Great job.

I have an upholstery staple gun that shoots 26g staples that range between 1/4” and 5/8” . I had not ever thought of it for stack cutting but think it might be the best option? Will have to order some staples for it,

Lovely cuts Brend , Roly

Very nice work Frank. Brownie point for you. Roly

The Polar blades are my go to for acrylic. The only other FD blades I use are the puzzle blade and the #1 "new spiral" when cutting one of Charles Hand's projects.

Kevin I do fire the pin with the stack on the anvil, it still comes out just enough to scratch the table. Just enough so that I can feel it. With my stack size there is usually a bit of a tail sticking up. that gets snipped and tapped down to protect my delicate fingers.

that's beautiful, fantastic job

very nice job

excellent work

Nice work! How big is it?

I guess your grandson is a train lover. Terrific work Ben. Marg

They look terrific Frank, well done. Marg

Have the pups gone to their new families now? Fabulous work on all of your projects Brenda, but I must say the cats are my favorite. Marg

That looks nice and a lot of work.

I am going to make a downdraft table and use the bathroom exhaust fan when I replace it with a new one. I will post picks when done. It might be awhile because I am procrastinating climbing in th attic to replace it.

Looks like a good project to take on. Very nice!

It looks great Ben! Only you know where the Boo boo’s are.

Congratulations on 57 years and I really love the caricature! Well cut! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Nice work, Branda! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Jerry, just hang out by the local grade school. There are plenty of sellers there. LOL.

I don't think it was intended as insult. I run into a lot of people that don't know the difference.. Usually they are just not familiar wit woodworking..

Wow, a classic thread from way way way back, resurrected from obscurity. There was a lot of good vendor feedback from Hans in this one.

I honestly will probably just leave it as is.. If people that really care about "handmade" they know the difference or would ask.. If they don't know the difference and want to baulk at me about it then I don't need them as a customer anyway.. I have plenty of customers I don't think one review that is a mistake on the customers end is going to hurt my sales, It's not a big deal really to me as i do have a laser and do sell some laser ornaments on the site.. They are just listed in the laser ornament section.. I'm not going to get all bent out of shape and make the customer feel bad over something they had no idea of.. Just not worth it to me.. Now if they was giving a poor rating and saying it was laser cut instead of hand cut.. then we'd have some issues..

Rolf, I guess I wouldn't literally file it off. Poor choice of words on my part. I have a pair of end cutting pliers that get pretty close, but do leave a slight bit of the pin protruding past the surface. Sand paper even works to grind it down flush. Kevin, I wouldn't try nailing over an anvil. That's asking for a jam in the nailer.

Since your saw and the Dewalt are clones there is a ton of useful info on scrollsaws.com. I think both of the suggestions that have been suggested so far are valid but check out the other hints there for further reference. Get familiar with your saw.

What if you was to use the nailer over the anvil? would that help stop the nail from protruding? I have a big sheet of stainless steel I had planed to use my nailer on.. but maybe that wouldn't work? Of coarse I'd still check to be sure it wasn't going to scratch my table.. plus as you do.. I sand after drilling the holes too.. Excited to try the pin nail method when my nailer arrives..

At least you'd know roughly where they are, not have to crawl around the floor on your hands and knees for 1/2 hour and still not find them.