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Finished this this past weekend. Second sign I've made. This one is for my uncle for Christmas.

Here is the end product of the sign I made for the workers at the company hubby works for. I hope they get a good laugh out of it. Thanks again Don for doing the letter patterns for me. They worked perfectly.

done my way,lol! Very thin wood 1/8" 3 ply craft wood from the dollar store. #3 scroll reverse blade from flying dutchman primed ,painted glitter rattle can paint, and triple coated poly. Magneto font,titebond 2 glue under all the glitter and a thin thin coating on the 2020 and then I use a pencil to clean up the numbers of excess glitter. I dip what ever gets glitterd on to waiting wet glue and it sticks just the right amount of glitter and then tap the ornament to shed the excess on to a piece of copy paper and the back in the bottle. I want to get long smaller covered boxes to have what I need when I need it. This year I have used more glitter than since I joined SSV thanks to RDatelle!

A last minute cut of the 12 days of Christmas ornaments. I stack cut 4 of each ornament out of bb ply using a #3 Pegas mgt blade. These were pretty fun. Enjoy and be blessed this Christmas season.

A bunch of horse stall name signs for a customer. Rescued wood for 99% --but, new rope, & new hardware. Even a little rescued oak trim pieces used too. Various woods a few unknown, cedar, oak, pine, & ???1! Cut on King 21"- Designs and fonts by T & E designs again too. Most are lightly torched then have a quick spray of poly. I was given by my request-- "artistic license" on this project. Customer has only seen a couple of them as pictures. States in an email--"waiting anxiously to see the rest! " There is one I do not like as well as the others, guesses welcome, Please comment as to what you do & DO NOT like-- I learn form both. I will be waiting to see her reaction to the hard! Honu has a light pack Hanger. Rescued from a Christmas tree that was in the garbage, Used because I found it in the drawer when looking for something to make a hanger of some kind!

Jim Blume made this pattern for me.

Before I switched to Pegas blades I used FD. If I were still using them I would use #3 an #5 UR. It would have to be very small frets for me to feel I need use a #1. Number 3s an #5s are my go to blades for 90% of the time.

Thanks to Steve Good for last weeks patterns. I like to do "dimensional" patterns and last week was right down my alley. Along came Fred, and then Fred Junior and Fred III. I also liked the gnomes.

I have cut about 25 of these 2020 Jack-in-the-Box Ornaments and created a storage box for them as I felt they were fragile and didn't want them to break. I stack cut the ornaments on my scroll saw, I then used the CNC to craft and cut the storage box and then used the Laser to burn the design image on the front of the box and my name logo, signature and such on the back of the storage box. This allowed me to use multiple tools in my arsenal to create these to gift to family and friends. My husband, the real woodworker in the family, helped me design the box and how to get it to stay attached. I sent some of these out on another forum in an ornament exchange. Most will be provided to family for this year's ornament gift. I started doing ornaments for family a couple of years ago. My mother always handstitched cross stitch ornaments for all her family for years (at least 30 years). She would do them on her lunch breaks at work and in the evenings after she got home. I am one of 4 children and she did them for us and our spouses, our children and more family). When we lost her 4 years ago, I wanted to continue on her tradition in some way. However, I don't cross stitch so I have crafted wooden ornaments with my saw. I felt the Jack-in-the-Box ornament was rather fitting for this 2020 year and all of its chaos and craziness that has occurred. The original pattern is not my own. It was originally created in 2006 by Dirk Boelman and published in the 2006 Holiday issue of the old and now defunct Creative Woodworks # Crafts magazine (Page 26 - there were 20 Ornaments by Dirk and Karen Boelman provided.) I ran across the original pattern while perusing a copy that someone had gifted to me and thought I would modify it to 2020 from 2006. As many of you know, Dirk Boelman is no longer with us but his wife, Karen, still runs their website www.theartfactory.com, and I reached out to her and asked her permission to share the modified pattern on the scroll saw forums I participate in noting that I would of course give credit for the original design to Dirk. She graciously gave me permission to share for free with other scrollers. The pattern is not to be sold. If anyone wants to check out other of Dirk's patterns, please visit The Art Factory website. While I was there, I purchased a couple of other patterns myself. Karen noted that she does not have all of Dirk's patterns on the website, so if you ever run across one of his that you would like, but don't see it on the site, reach out to her on the Contact Us page and she can probably get it for you. They also sell other scroll saw related items besides patterns. Dirk passed I believe before I found scrolling, but from all I have seen and heard, he and Karen gave so much to the scrolling community I hope that you all can help give back by checking out their website for patterns or other supplies sometime. ( am sure Karen would appreciate it. Here are the photos of my project, the ornament and the box front and back and showing how it opens and stores the ornament.

Thanks goes out to Don in brooklin for making the pattern for me. Pallet wood and some 1/8" BB plywood, Early American stain and some white spray paint with a few coats of clear on top.

My Wife's dentist dental assistant just had a baby and wanted to give her a gift. Found a great drawing and added the name and date. Cut on 1/8" BBPW with a 1/4" backer, Shellac and Gloss Lacquer finish. Will drop it off tomorrow.

Ernest Burnie. Don't now how to spell the last name. Lol

Charlie STOP messaging and get cutting lol, am with the rest can't wait to see the finished item.

I think the portait is wonderful. Great cutting. However, I'm going to be blunt,as this just my opinion, so take if for whatever it worth. I know I will get some greif but being perfectly honest, I Do not like the flame torched border. Yep, it easy and takes little effort to do as opposed to makeing a real frame, but again , in my opinion, I think it totaly destroys your work. Sorry if I hurt feelings.

Another papercutting lightbox design I found on Etsy. Five layers, the top layer with all the frilly edging, was the worst part to cut. I have an LED light strip behind it, and used thin strips of 1/2" ply to separate the layers. The rest is 1/4 bbp. Stained Minwax Natural. Frame is some extra 1/2" ply, trimmed down to size. I left the top and bottom longer, I like the overlapped look and the wife is happy as well. The LED strip fades between colors, these are teal/purple/red, but the camera on my phone doesn't really show them well. The pics were taken before I put the LED strips fully in place, they're still wrapped around the spool and leaning up against the back. The light is much more even now.

The framework for this project is made of black walnut. The size is 41" x 16" and features wolf footprints that are filled with a mixture of blue/green gemstone powder embedded in clear acrylic gel. At first glance, it might appear that the wolf plaques are made from vertical slices of wood from a log. However, slices cut like that would be very unstable especially with all the fret holes that were required to be cut with these scrollsaw patterns. The animal plaques were made from 9" diameter circles cut from a curly maple board that was 1 1/2" thick. The edges were carved to simulate a raw bark edge. The wolves eyes were inlaid similar to the paw prints. The faces were stained with a dry brush technique utilizing a mixture of oil paints in polyurethane in multiple light coats. Everything is finished with Wipe-on-Poly.

Thank you for the pattern Mahendra. Wood is 1/8" BB with a laminate finish. #1 PMG.

Thanks for the ideas. The cats have a finish on them. But I didn’t put any finish on the plywood backer. Thinking the plywood would be stable. What I get for thinking

To prevent or minimise this I always try and make sure the whole item is sealed "Lacquered", including the back. This prevents the moisture fluctuations.

Welcome to the Village from the Never White South...the East Coast of Central Florida to be exact. The 21" Pegas scroll saw is very popular with many member in this forum including myself. Great Saw for the price. Contact Dennis Knappen at artcraftersscrollsaw@gmail.com , he is one of our members and is a supplier of the Pegas saw. You can't beat his pricing. Shoud yo purchas a Pegas, do your self a favor and get the Pegas stand. Very sturdy and well worth the price. Tow other important things to get from day one is a Foot Switch and a bright high magnification LED extension arm lamp. You wont be sorry.

I prefer #3 ;match olson's blades IKE

I agree with Dan, FD UR #1's will work well for this. I just finished cutting 1/2" stacks of BB ply for a boat load of ornaments and used the FD UR #1. It's pretty much my go-to blade for fine fretwork in all but the thickest/hardest material. The #3 will work a little better on the letters, as there are a lot more straight lines and the #3 will offer a little better control, but the #1 would work fine for those as well.

I definitely would use FD UR blades. A size 1 for all the fret work and a size 3 for the letters. I use these all the time for this type of work.

I'd use a spiral blade number 2/0 BUT, since you hate the spirals a #1 or #3 Ultra reverse might work too, Just take it easy on the fragile areas.. Not a huge fan of a reverse tooth ( especially UR ) with fine detail fretwork.. Those reverse teeth can get grabby and bust a portion out.. I've used them on work more fragile than this.. and running the EX is smooth so you should be fine with them..

I cut this 11X14 Alex Fox Pattern titled Eagle-Flag from 1/4 inch thick Oak solid core plywood, that I stained with Minwax Weathered Oak stain to enhance the Oak color. The cut panel was affixed it to a 1/4 inch thick Mahogany solid core plywood backer that I darkened with Minwax Mahogany stain to improve the contrast. The panel was finished with multiple coats of spray lacquer. The cut was done exclusively with Pegas #0 spiral blades. Cutting the Oak was slightly more challenging than the Maple or BB Plywood I usually use. Had to cut a little slower and even the cutting sound was different. After the cut was complete the vertical grain alignment produced an interesting look. The panel is loose fit into a solid Red Oak Frame which I made and also darkened with the Minwax Mahogany stain. The Frame was finished with multiple coats of clear Gloss Polyurethane.

Can you guess who these features belong to yet? I'll post the finished product when I'm done, unless I turn it into firewood. ***Finished James Taylor. Nice guess @Jim c! Didn't turn out exactly like I envisioned, but do they ever. He'll live on my shop wall so he's good enough. I used this as a pattern. It is a pencil sketch I tweaked a little done with a pencil sketch generator on the internet.

As I'm approaching retirement age in a few years (probably never retire), I started to buy a few woodworking tools for basic carpentry needs. As I was exploring bandsaws and realizing that I wont be making kitchen cabinets anytime soon and my need for resawing may be quite limited, I started looking at scroll saws and discovering all the cool little stuff I could be making for the grand kids. I could likely use a scroll saw to shape the contours of furniture armchairs (Adirondack chairs) and create patterns in the seat back or arms. I've been doing some research on scroll saws. I'm set on a flat table and moving arm. And all the brands of moving arms seem to be made by the same manufacturer in Taiwan except the whole confusion about the name and unit built by GI in China - Excalibur / Excelsor. Great article on this community which is what brought me here in the first place and I've discovered a wealth of information. Noteworthy, Pégas scroll saw isn't on your list of scroll saws - and the optional long table (more room in front of the blade is a strong contender.). For me, Seyco is out because they don't have the rack and pinion tilt and I can't see myself fussing around to make angle adjustments or building a rack and pinion like Steve Good has done. Still need to look at Jet, ... and maybe others. Excited at the possibilities and love those 3D scrollsaw designs. Stay safe everyone! J-M

A Very Good Friend taught me about making crafts this way. I Loved his work a lot. There is a lot of small pieces that are cut. Most need that TINY hole, so needs to be Spackled before painting. Anyway I ENJOYED doing this project. More to come. Enjoy and Of course Pros n Cons Welcome...............Danny :+}

if you want to add a backer and cant use something too thick, you could use something like poster board or picture frame matting as a backer.

My husband said Judd Hurch

Great pattern and excellent cutting

Kurt Russel, RJ

Thanks everyone for the comments, suggestion, tips etc. Looks like I'll use a #3 FD UR as my 1st choice for most of it and switch to a #1 for the smaller areas. I should be starting this later this week or early next week. Still finishing a few other projects for now. What a great and friendly forum this is. Glad I joined not long ago. Thanks again Ben

The hat makes me think James Taylor.

good luck on the project

To bad you don't like spiral blades as that is a project that would be prefect for them other than the word welcome. That being said, most any blade you are comfortable with will get the job done. I would probably use a #3

I add backers to most projects with words cut out.

Personally, I'd cut this as a 'fretwork' piece and put a backer on it. I'd use a #3 blade as it's my go to blade and I can cut most things with it.. It looks awfully 'fragile' to have as a 'cut out' piece to me. JMHO

That is a really outststanding cut. Other than the work WELCOME the panel screames use a spiral blade. I'd be using mostly a #1 Pegas spiral to cut it. Probably a #3 Pegas mgt R for the Font. For only three layers of 1/8" BB ply, almost any blade you like will work A #1 and/or #3 is probably you best bet although I would not hesitate to use a #2/0 for some of the smaller detail areas. Just remember, when the panel gets thicker...push slower and let the blade do the work!

@don in brooklin on the Excelsior KXL21/100 is a contender and available within an hour drive. I’m in the Lower Laurentians. I also see it advertised at $999 pedal included and online at Atlas-Machinery located just west of you for the same price. Going to wait it out to see if anyone has a Boxing Day special as I missed the Black Friday deals.

Now let's see the king back in those days that captured a queen like that

#3

Russ Beard created this off a photo for me. I think he did a great likeness.

I usually have standard pricing, I look at it as a hobby, I don't charge for my time. Names on a stand I sell for $20 if it has a clock inserted it's $25. 8x10 portraits I sell for $30 anything larger I add $10 and ornaments I have a standard price of $5. Sometimes I ask my wife what she would pay for an item. I tried putting items online with a higher price and no takers. You may think I am nuts but at my age I just want to make and sell and not hold on to an item, this is only my opinion

Hi all, This idea came from several concepts I saw all over the net. I am terrible at straight or smooth cuts. This is going to my grandaughter who takes music lessons. I hope it gets her past traditional notes. Multi notes are a better than black and white notes. There is many problems with this piece. Terrible matching thickness of lines. etc.

https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/forum/30-pattern-requests/

The horizontal pieces are 14", the vertical are .....8.5"? Something like that. The pattern fit on a regular letter-sized sheet of paper.

Beautiful gift. She will be blown away by it I'm sure. Marg

This piece was started on a white oak board, 23" x 15" x 1" thick, routed on all sides with a frame molding bit to cut an incorporated frame. Scrollsawing and then power carving with a Foredom rotary power tool was completed. Sanding was done, light selective staining and multiple coats of Wipe-on-Poly were applied. A backer with black satin paint was attached.

Sorry I got selfish and said I wasn't going to post here anymore.......meet Snow & Flake......born this morning......designed the pattern myself.....1/2" & 1/4 sanded ply.....comments always welcomed.....