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No telling how many folks have cut this one. This old piece of pine shelving from my carport closet worked well with the pattern I think. Another one for the shop wall.

This is my first time using resin on a picture, I cut the tiger from scrap plywood added a plain backer, then sliced coloured crayons and melted them with the heat gun, finally covered it all with clear resin, the pics don't do it justice the colours stand out so much better in real life Cheers Gordon

Yeah, my wife's got a soft spot for these little gnomes. Nabbed two gnome patterns from H.Botas' Etsy shop (and...maybe a couple extras for myself). Stack cut on 1/8 bbply, Pegas #3mg blades. Pretty quick cut, not a lot of pilot holes or fragile spots to watch out for. I'll stain these guys Natural, and the backer/frames with a darker color....once I get the pattern removed and everything sanded.

I made Welcome sign about a half year ago and this pattern is quite popular, I decided to make similar Home sign, I think they looks great together Welcome Home patterns Video of making project (YouTube)

Done on Black Walnut piece 20" x 13"

My neighbor commissioned this piece as an update to an existing piece they had, It's a door topper. The old one was 4 ducks and they wanted the entire family laid out. If I used the ducks, this would have been 78" long. I opted and they approved of standing pelicans instead. Made it more beach oriented and saved lots of space. It's still 48" long though and 10" at its highest (the first pelican) I'm hoping the pelicans will stay on that bar - I used titebond I and had to sand a bit off the bottoms Not the best picture so I'll have to take a Panorama of it when it fully dries Thoughts and critique are welcome Here it is mounted to the top of the door Thanks as always in advance

Boy, people are crazy for these!!! I,m getting mega orders!!!

I have shown these in the past. Both were made several years ago, but these are my favorite Dirk Boelman Christmas projects. First is Santa’s workshop portrait. Cut from 1/8 Baltic birch plywood with a Mahogany ply backer. Handcrafted pine frame. Above Mrs Santa is a wall clock. That clock comes to life as the second project. The clock is cut from solid Cherry and Walnut with Maple for the icicles. Elves and Santa in the windows are also Maple. The roof pillars are compound cut out of pine. The clock movement chimes every hour and every fifteen minutes. It has a swinging pendulum with elves swinging on the pendulum rod.

Hi All. I got an email from someone the other day wondering if SSV has any t-shirts and the like. Back in the olden' days of SSV, we used to have things like t-shirts, mugs and other gifts available. It's a little late in the year, but I put a few things together and brought back the swag shop. Don't know why I didn't think of it earlier. Might be a bit late for Christmas and a bit of a lost opportunity, but I did it all the same. If you just can't get enough of SSV, you can show your pride with some merch! Everything is print-on-demand and fulfilled by TeeSpring. The link is under the Support SSV tab and I'll link it below. Take a peek and let me know what you think. Enjoy! https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/swag/

Hey scrollers, thought I might share some fun 3D layered projects I shrunk and turned into Christmas tree ornaments. My first attempt with the Dream catcher on the top layer was to thin and kept breaking. I had to settle on printing it 65% size. The Patterns can be found here. Dream catcher made out of Walnut and Maple Celtic snowflake made out of Cedar and Maple

When doing a pattern with layers like the Santa from Steve Good yesterday when I cut the backer and then the front and then any errors will shows. I am not perfect. Do get around this when ever possible I stack cut front and back. Match perfectly that way. Step 1. With the Santa pattern I put all the pieces on the backer. I used Inscape but I guess you could do manually. Made backer red. . Step 2. Cover the back piece with painters tape on one side. Add painters tape to both sides of the front piece. Step 3. Put a few drops of CA (medium) to back. Spray the back of the front with accelerator. Step 4. Press together and apply pattern to front. Step 5. Cut out the outside edge of pattern and separate. The painters tape will come off the backer and the back of the front. Step 6. cut all the front pieces like normal. The red is now waste and when you glue the individual pieces to the backer they will fit perfectly. I will show the final product it bragging rights as it is being painted and Steve just posted Mrs Claus which I will do the same way.

Hey Gary, I always apply a top coat. I always use rattle can lacquer. I’ve found that Minwax spray lacquer dries fast. Two coats 30 minutes apart each side works real well. I can package and ship the next day without any smell.

done my way,lol! Very thin wood 1/8" 3 ply craft wood from the dollar store. #3 scroll reverse blade from flying dutchman primed ,painted glitter rattle can paint, and triple coated poly. Magneto font,titebond 2 glue under all the glitter and a thin thin coating on the 2020 and then I use a pencil to clean up the numbers of excess glitter. I dip what ever gets glitterd on to waiting wet glue and it sticks just the right amount of glitter and then tap the ornament to shed the excess on to a piece of copy paper and the back in the bottle. I want to get long smaller covered boxes to have what I need when I need it. This year I have used more glitter than since I joined SSV thanks to RDatelle!

HI everyone I would just like to say after consulting with Rocklers and the help of two great people here on the village site, Octool guy and New2woodwork I have decided against a dust collector and am staying with my hang up shop vac and my dust deputy for scrolling. I have that 12 foot hose with different fittings from Rocklers and that new switch that I posted in the other forum from Menards for my vac setup I am all set and happy. I am keeping it simple as I age. (soon to be 75 on the 27th)> I would like to say I have been on this village for a long time now and everyone is just great at helping and ideas. Bill

Thanks goes out to Don in brooklin for making the pattern for me. Pallet wood and some 1/8" BB plywood, Early American stain and some white spray paint with a few coats of clear on top.

This combination has been very popular this Christmas. The wreath is a part of a Steve Good pattern and is cut from 3/4 poplar. The Merry Christmas is an Alex Fox design although I cut the back layer out of 1/2 poplar to give it some heft and help it stand up more easily. The other two layers are 1/8 bb ply. Most have sold unpainted as customers wanted to get creative. This set was painted upon request. The combination came about as an idea from my wonderful wife who put them together after I cut sample pieces for her. They are all cut on my Pegas with #3 mgt blades. Be blessed.

I had a gorgeous pattern of a Robin done for me by @Helder Botas for which I am incredibly grateful. Fresh off the saw. Yet to have a finish applied and framed. It's a gift from my daughter to her Mother in Law. I've just sent her this picture, keep your fingers crossed that she likes it.

David said it best.. My lousy experience with dust collecting has been a trade off.. I've never been 100% satisfied with the dust collected.. Yes my big collection for the planer is a great tool to have since I hate shoveling sawdust off the floor.. and the planer makes a lot of that.. so I'm satisfied with it.. noise well as I said before.. I don't even hear the dust collector when the planer is running. For the fine sawdust from our scroll saws.. after experimenting with many different variations of collecting that fine dust and the tradeoff of quiet and noisy.. I'm beginning to think my original system was more effective and quiet.. I spend many long hours behind a scroll saw in my shop.. the sound of vacuums and dust collectors running all day long 5-7 days a week is a lot.. My old method of a box fan and a furnace filter on the side of the saw that the dust blower blows toward at saw table level that seems pretty effective.. quiet and cheaper than any other system.. a broom or better yet.. shop vac to run for 5 minutes to clean the floor around the saw each day seems more effective to me.. If I'm not going to get 90% + of the dust with a saw activated dust collector and have to listen to the noise all day long.. The good old box fan and furnace filter seem to look better and better all the time.. I've really been considering setting up a old squirrel cage blower ( furnace blower fan ) and running it with different inlet locations with filters to filter the whole shop better and more efficient.. and much cheaper than these expensive noisy vacuums.. As Ray said.. that WEN ceiling hanging air filtration system is a nice quiet fine dust collection machine.. the combo of that and a box fan by the saw seems to work nice and on the cheap which is a bonus. I think my seyco system only getting about 70% of the dust and I have to put up with the noise.. That dust at the bottom of the saw really mostly just floats to the floor.. the dust I hate is what gets stirred into the air.. what the scrollsaws dust blower is doing.. and what the box fan takes care of 95% of.. IF you position it correctly.. seems to be the most effective fine dust collection I've used yet.. and just the soft sound of a fan running is nice.. I can still hear my radio..

Earmuffs are your friend. Nice, comfortable noise cancelling earmuffs with bluetooth music capability. I have burned out two Fein shop vacs and currently run a Festool for the spindle sander and scroll saw. They are quieter than the Fein or Shopvac, but they aren't that quiet. And the air flow from the big cyclone dust collector still whistles, even though the cyclone is located in a closet and vents through the wall. I have been through 3-4 dust collection setups and none of them are quiet or collect all the dust. Lots of wasted money. If I wanted a quiet woodworking hobby, I should have learned to use chisels and hand saws.

I like campfires.. didn't camp this year .. I've seen negative reviews on etsy from laser shops complaining about the campfire smell.. It doesn't bother me.. but I try to be conscious about my products to my customers.. I've maintained 5 star ratings on all the sites I sell on for a total of around 4500 reviews.. I try my best to keep it that way, LOL

Danish oil had poly in it.. Poly and lacquer don't mix well with one another... BUT.. There is so little in the Danish oil that people use it without issues.. that they know of anyway.. That is why if I topcoat.. over Danish oil I use the water base poly.. Less smell than Lacquer and still dries fast

Lacquer does work well also.. I just can't stand the smell it leaves in my shop.. I use it quite a lot outside in the warmer weather.. for my CNC projects.. But I can spray the stuff in the loft of my shop with all the windows open and fans in the windows but I can't even go work downstairs in the shop until that stuff has dried and aired out.. that one is a no go for me for spraying inside..

My laser engraver make the ornaments smell like a campfire.. LOL Lasering is new to me this year and I've played around with different finishes to figure out what works to help get rid if the campfire smell.. So far I like the water base polyurethane spray.. stuff dries fast and the smell isn't too bad within just a few hours.. Another thing I've wanted to try since seeing Denny post a puzzle last fall and mentioning that he used shellac and diluted it 50% alcohol.. he just dipped it I believe.. The spay cans of Shellac dry pretty fast so the diluted mix should dry real fast.. Not sure how the smell would be.. but anyway so far the water based poly is what I'm using for the laser stuff to seal the smell in or cover it up, LOL

I have gotten complaints from customers in the past for the strong finish smell that Danish oil leaves when opening up their mail.. I now wait 3 days before mailing them out.. IF I need something to go out in the mail fast.. I use my homemade mix of mineral oil and beeswax.. Repeat customers have specifically asked for my mix as it smells good like.. well.. beeswax, LOL Applying the mix is a pain in the rear.. so I don't use it unless I have to anymore.. but used to be the only finish I used.. Just too time consuming for as busy as I am these days.. As to dipping in Danish oil... I leave them in the oil for 5-10 minutes.. take them out and lay them on several layers of paper towels.. let them sit for about another 10 minutes.. then I wipe the excess oil off of them and hang them to dry for 3 days before shipping them out.. I try to smell them close to my nose as I have a pretty good idea of when they are okay to ship.. I pretty much stock up on ornaments so most times they are drying for several months before the holidays.. and most anything I make that I know I'll be mailing out real soon.. I just use my homemade mixture.. Somewhere in my feed back on etsy a couple years ago I had a few comments about they smell good, LOL Anyway.. don't ship them if they are smelling pretty strong of Danish oil.. The mail carrier might even complain or refuse to ship them.. from my experience.. My mail lady and I are pretty tight and she mentioned to me a few years ago about the smell when I switched from the beeswax to the Danish oil.. Thankfully she was kind enough to just mention it rather than complain.. Some people are real sensitive to smell ( I'm one of those myself ). They don't smell strong in the wide open space.. but seal them up in a box for a few days and then open the box.. you'll get a good enough whiff to get high for a few seconds

Thanks to Steve Good for last weeks patterns. I like to do "dimensional" patterns and last week was right down my alley. Along came Fred, and then Fred Junior and Fred III. I also liked the gnomes.

Finished this this past weekend. Second sign I've made. This one is for my uncle for Christmas.

This 30" tall giraffe was completed using a resin inlay material called Inlace Liquid Inlay. The fretwork holes of the giraffe were cut on the scrollsaw. A thin plywood backer board was glued to the back of the piece with construction adhesive. The cut holes were filled with Inlace and allowed to dry. The project was sanded and then a polyurethane finish was applied. The finish was also applied to the natural edge of this cherry board. There are multiple colors of this material available and I recommend the darker brown choices. This material is available at Wood Acrylic Supply on Etsy. OPTION 2 Another method to do this project is to just reduce the wood in each spot with a rotary power tool instead of cutting the frets out with a scroll saw. Only about 1/8" deep is necessary. Then fill the spots with the Inlace and proceed in the same fashion with sanding smooth and applying finish.

My wife, Ann Marie, volunteers at a local organization that supplies cooked meals to families’ of cancer victims on a weekly basis. Every year she talks me into supplying a handcrafted Christmas ornament for the folks and their families to maybe bring some joy to them. These are the 6 ornaments for 2020, stack cut and hand painted a total of 75 pieces. We had to be careful to not offend anyone with our religious beliefs, which I was willing to do…but I refused to call them holiday ornaments. The ornaments were packaged separately in glassine envelopes, and each family will receive one next Monday with their meal delivery. Thanks for looking. Rick This is what I wanted my originalpost to look like. Thanks again for looking. We hope everyone stays SAFE and enjoy your Christmas. 2020 Sparrow's Nest Ornaments

A last minute cut of the 12 days of Christmas ornaments. I stack cut 4 of each ornament out of bb ply using a #3 Pegas mgt blade. These were pretty fun. Enjoy and be blessed this Christmas season.

Jjust one word: Beautiful!!

Not on your Nellie !!! I have absolutely 'NO' painting skills and putting me in charge of a brush is the quickest way to ruin a project.

Very creative! Looks good.

Those look great. A little CA glue with activator works great. A little dab'll do ya.

very nice job

very nice job

great pattern, wood and workmanship

very nice job, I hope you solve the glue problem

I have seen this pattern cut many, many times but have to say that this is one of the best ... That wood is a brilliant choice for this !

I bought this system late last summer.. https://www.seyco.com/dv-10a-cyclonic-action-scroll-saw-dust-collector/ It is much quieter than my shop vac but not as quiet as I'd like.. also not as effective as I'd like.. Good suction for beneath the saw but I don't know that it would be anough to put a T hose and run a top and bottom collection hose... In all honesty I think the best option for a " new system is going to be a Festool or Fein vacuum and some PVC piping to the saw.. as well as a dust separator... I have a big 2HP dust collector from Harbor Freight.. Works great for big equipment ( ie planer, big resaw bandsaw, and CNC router.. This thing isn't something I would recommend to use for fine scroll saw dust..

I completely agree with you Les. I have a Fein vac/DustDeputy that I had plumbed to my first scroll saw. When I sold that saw, I decided to have a dedicated dust collection system for each of my two scroll saws. I am using essentially the same systems as you except I have 2 of the MetroVac500's along with the mini cyclones. I still use the Fein but for other things like cleaning around the shop. I put together a Ridgid 14 gallon vac with a Dustopper from H/D for my table saw and router table when I work outdoors. There are so many ways to go on this subject that I feel that it all depends on your individual needs. I think the best thing I had purchased so far for dust is my Wen air cleaner. I have it mounted up above my primary scroll station and let it run whenever I'm in my shop. It does a great job of cleaning the air that I breathe. I also wear a dust mask with changeable filters. Another great system that works and is very cheap is the 20 inch box fan with a furnace filter attached to it. I found that it caught most of the dust that was being blown off my scroll saw table.

For the pelicans, since it'll be above a door and most folks aren't going to be tall enough to see it, maybe run a nailgun through the pelican's foot/tail into the horizontal piece? Then another nail/tack through the piece into a stud once its on the door? Won't need but maybe one or two to hold it in place...maybe a third in the middle pelican in case the door slams?

All this talk about dust collection. Unless you have a shop equipped with heavy duty tools, table saw, planer, router, jointer, band saw and other, big pieces of equipment, dust collectors are in the way. If all you are doing is scrolling simple things like a Dust Deputy and the like are all you need. I have a HF 13 gallon DC. I got it to use on my mini lathe when I was making pens and other things. I also have a mini router table on which I use it. I have it mounted high on a shelf outside my small shop as it took too much room and was noisy. I used 4 inch PVC and some flex tubing from Woodcraft. I found it useless for my scroll saws. Too big and not very practical necking down to 1 inch for the scroll saw. I use 2 small cyclones with 2 small vacuums, a Filter Queen and an Oreck. Get lots of suction. They suck up all the dust as well lots of the small chips and pieces. Had I a well equipped shop, of course I would love ducted DC to all my tools. The choice is yours but I agree with the Rockler salesperson. He's doing you a favor.

I use 3m spray adhesive on mine - works great To remove, heat with a heat gun or hair dryer and peel off, clean with Mineral Spirits, let dry and tack on another Rinse and repeat ad infinitum

Very nice ornaments.... Hope this helps others see them

Yes I did and I downloaded it. Will cut the "R" for her in next few days.

My father was a dentist and upon his passing I kept his dental cabinets and a belt driven dental drill and the air compressor from one of the dental chairs. The compressor, which I still have, is whisper quiet and was perfect for my air brushes.

Welcome to the Village from East Tennessee. Look forward to hearing more on your saw selection. I am not familiar with Mini ones.

I love Charles Dicken's, A Christmas Carol. Our family's favorite movie version is The Muppet Christmas Carol. I made one of these for each of my 3 kids. The wood is red oak. The stain is Barn Red from Minwax. Comes in handy around Christmas!

Length wise sanding won't solve your problem. Cross wise sanding should help, but it's a lot more difficult to do. You want the sanding scratches for an edge to catch the grip, not make tiny rails for the grip to slide along. Use a sharpening stone and rub the end of the blade across it to make the cross wise scratches. Don't pull the blade lengthwise. The ends of the set screws get worn. A slight turn of the screw will give you fresh edges to bit into the blade. Look closely at the working end of the set screw and you will see a ring shaped ridge. With a magnifying glass, you will likely also see that this ridge is no longer sharp where the blade has worn it off. Turning the screw will give you a fresh sharp ridge again. After you do this repeatedly it will be time to replace the set screw with a new one. Use blue Locktite on the set screw threads to keep it from turning on it's own. Use only the blue Locktite, never another color or you won't ever be able to turn or remove the set screw again. The blue holds it in position, but lets you change the position when you need to. Charley

You can square up the broken hole with your saw. Then put a piece of scrap under it with the grain running the same direction. Take a sharp pencil trace the hole onto the scrap. Cut just to the outside of the line. Should fit in good. You will need to put a piece of tape over the saw hole to keep the small piece from falling thru.