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First time cutting one of these: Pattern from here, 1/8 BB, boiled linseed, FD ur#1

I have shown these in the past. Both were made several years ago, but these are my favorite Dirk Boelman Christmas projects. First is Santa’s workshop portrait. Cut from 1/8 Baltic birch plywood with a Mahogany ply backer. Handcrafted pine frame. Above Mrs Santa is a wall clock. That clock comes to life as the second project. The clock is cut from solid Cherry and Walnut with Maple for the icicles. Elves and Santa in the windows are also Maple. The roof pillars are compound cut out of pine. The clock movement chimes every hour and every fifteen minutes. It has a swinging pendulum with elves swinging on the pendulum rod.

Hey scrollers, thought I might share some fun 3D layered projects I shrunk and turned into Christmas tree ornaments. My first attempt with the Dream catcher on the top layer was to thin and kept breaking. I had to settle on printing it 65% size. The Patterns can be found here. Dream catcher made out of Walnut and Maple Celtic snowflake made out of Cedar and Maple

Done on Black Walnut piece 20" x 13"

Needed to do a quick project. Saw some moulding lying in the corner of he shop and decided to make another box. Easy cutting the sides on the miter saw, dadoed a groove for the bottom. Finish is black lacquer and my wife painted some small elements on the top and sides.

Spoke with our mailman the other day and he said they are assigning him to a new route next year. He has been with us a few years and wanted to give him something in appreciation for going the extra mile with our deliveries. Purchased this pattern a few years ago from Sue Mey and just add his name. 1/8" on 1/4" backer and just shellac finish.

Yeah, my wife's got a soft spot for these little gnomes. Nabbed two gnome patterns from H.Botas' Etsy shop (and...maybe a couple extras for myself). Stack cut on 1/8 bbply, Pegas #3mg blades. Pretty quick cut, not a lot of pilot holes or fragile spots to watch out for. I'll stain these guys Natural, and the backer/frames with a darker color....once I get the pattern removed and everything sanded.

This beautiful mountain inhabitant was cut with a scroll saw using Pegas Spiral Blades #5 and then power carved from a piece of Sapele that was 19" x 15" x1". It was then stained with MinWax Color Wash in Weathered Wood and some light touches of burnt umber oils and blue/green oils for the eyes.. A final finish of Clear Matte Polycrylic was then applied.

No telling how many folks have cut this one. This old piece of pine shelving from my carport closet worked well with the pattern I think. Another one for the shop wall.

This 30" tall giraffe was completed using a resin inlay material called Inlace Liquid Inlay. The fretwork holes of the giraffe were cut on the scrollsaw. A thin plywood backer board was glued to the back of the piece with construction adhesive. The cut holes were filled with Inlace and allowed to dry. The project was sanded and then a polyurethane finish was applied. The finish was also applied to the natural edge of this cherry board. There are multiple colors of this material available and I recommend the darker brown choices. This material is available at Wood Acrylic Supply on Etsy. OPTION 2 Another method to do this project is to just reduce the wood in each spot with a rotary power tool instead of cutting the frets out with a scroll saw. Only about 1/8" deep is necessary. Then fill the spots with the Inlace and proceed in the same fashion with sanding smooth and applying finish.

I made Welcome sign about a half year ago and this pattern is quite popular, I decided to make similar Home sign, I think they looks great together Welcome Home patterns Video of making project (YouTube)

HI everyone I would just like to say after consulting with Rocklers and the help of two great people here on the village site, Octool guy and New2woodwork I have decided against a dust collector and am staying with my hang up shop vac and my dust deputy for scrolling. I have that 12 foot hose with different fittings from Rocklers and that new switch that I posted in the other forum from Menards for my vac setup I am all set and happy. I am keeping it simple as I age. (soon to be 75 on the 27th)> I would like to say I have been on this village for a long time now and everyone is just great at helping and ideas. Bill

The pattern was purchased from Scrooler website and was slightly modified to suit an 11X14 panel. Cut panel is 5/32" Maple Solid Core Plywood affixed to a painted black 1/8" BB Plywood Backer. I used a combination of Pegas #2/0 Spiral and Mgt R Blades. The cutting was relatively easy although the pattern has a number of long, poorly supported, areas that proved to be challenging to prevent accidental breakage until glued to the backer. The panel is finished with multiple coats of spray Lacquer and set lose in a commercial frame. This piece was requested by my daughter as a Christmas gift for special family friend who is a Decon in her Church. It took USPS over a week to get me the pattern from Scrooler located in Michigan so I was under a little time crunch to produce this piece in time to get it to NY via FedEx for Christmas. It was completed in two long Days and will be packaged and shipped today, thus the choice to use a store bought frame.

Never mind everyone. I found the problem.....ME. Please disregard the posting.

This is my first time using resin on a picture, I cut the tiger from scrap plywood added a plain backer, then sliced coloured crayons and melted them with the heat gun, finally covered it all with clear resin, the pics don't do it justice the colours stand out so much better in real life Cheers Gordon

I have also got "Fred" cut & glued together. Just need to put a finish on them.

Here are my finished gnomes. Reduced to 70%

I joined this wonderful forum several years ago but haven't been active for the past couple. life happens and somethings must fall by the way side and spending time on a computer took the hit. Any ways I have returned and see this site is as full of good people and wonderful information as before my hiatus. Thank you for not changing.

With covid I finished most of my home projects so I had a little time on my hands and done scrap 1 x 3 pine. So the inner nerd took over and this is what I came up with. I made a block from the pine measuring 8 x 13 and 2¼ thick. Printed off the letters and went to my scroll saw. I might have been able to cut it on my band saw, but I have a ¾" blade on it and didn't want to change, besides, the inside of the "O" would have been a challenge. Some craft paint and glue....done! In the background you can see the clamp, I had just glued it when I took the picture. The combo square is for size reference. Chris

I have cut about 25 of these 2020 Jack-in-the-Box Ornaments and created a storage box for them as I felt they were fragile and didn't want them to break. I stack cut the ornaments on my scroll saw, I then used the CNC to craft and cut the storage box and then used the Laser to burn the design image on the front of the box and my name logo, signature and such on the back of the storage box. This allowed me to use multiple tools in my arsenal to create these to gift to family and friends. My husband, the real woodworker in the family, helped me design the box and how to get it to stay attached. I sent some of these out on another forum in an ornament exchange. Most will be provided to family for this year's ornament gift. I started doing ornaments for family a couple of years ago. My mother always handstitched cross stitch ornaments for all her family for years (at least 30 years). She would do them on her lunch breaks at work and in the evenings after she got home. I am one of 4 children and she did them for us and our spouses, our children and more family). When we lost her 4 years ago, I wanted to continue on her tradition in some way. However, I don't cross stitch so I have crafted wooden ornaments with my saw. I felt the Jack-in-the-Box ornament was rather fitting for this 2020 year and all of its chaos and craziness that has occurred. The original pattern is not my own. It was originally created in 2006 by Dirk Boelman and published in the 2006 Holiday issue of the old and now defunct Creative Woodworks # Crafts magazine (Page 26 - there were 20 Ornaments by Dirk and Karen Boelman provided.) I ran across the original pattern while perusing a copy that someone had gifted to me and thought I would modify it to 2020 from 2006. As many of you know, Dirk Boelman is no longer with us but his wife, Karen, still runs their website www.theartfactory.com, and I reached out to her and asked her permission to share the modified pattern on the scroll saw forums I participate in noting that I would of course give credit for the original design to Dirk. She graciously gave me permission to share for free with other scrollers. The pattern is not to be sold. If anyone wants to check out other of Dirk's patterns, please visit The Art Factory website. While I was there, I purchased a couple of other patterns myself. Karen noted that she does not have all of Dirk's patterns on the website, so if you ever run across one of his that you would like, but don't see it on the site, reach out to her on the Contact Us page and she can probably get it for you. They also sell other scroll saw related items besides patterns. Dirk passed I believe before I found scrolling, but from all I have seen and heard, he and Karen gave so much to the scrolling community I hope that you all can help give back by checking out their website for patterns or other supplies sometime. ( am sure Karen would appreciate it. Here are the photos of my project, the ornament and the box front and back and showing how it opens and stores the ornament.

Thanks goes out to Don in brooklin for making the pattern for me. Pallet wood and some 1/8" BB plywood, Early American stain and some white spray paint with a few coats of clear on top.

My neighbor commissioned this piece as an update to an existing piece they had, It's a door topper. The old one was 4 ducks and they wanted the entire family laid out. If I used the ducks, this would have been 78" long. I opted and they approved of standing pelicans instead. Made it more beach oriented and saved lots of space. It's still 48" long though and 10" at its highest (the first pelican) I'm hoping the pelicans will stay on that bar - I used titebond I and had to sand a bit off the bottoms Not the best picture so I'll have to take a Panorama of it when it fully dries Thoughts and critique are welcome Here it is mounted to the top of the door Thanks as always in advance

I've been on here for a year or so and I've decided to post a few of my projects .The first was the flower for my daughter, then the vase and now I'm working on finishing the racoon. I do find no matter what kind of day its been spending time in my small shop takes all the stress away ! Thanks for looking and for the warm welcome !!

A bunch of horse stall name signs for a customer. Rescued wood for 99% --but, new rope, & new hardware. Even a little rescued oak trim pieces used too. Various woods a few unknown, cedar, oak, pine, & ???1! Cut on King 21"- Designs and fonts by T & E designs again too. Most are lightly torched then have a quick spray of poly. I was given by my request-- "artistic license" on this project. Customer has only seen a couple of them as pictures. States in an email--"waiting anxiously to see the rest! " There is one I do not like as well as the others, guesses welcome, Please comment as to what you do & DO NOT like-- I learn form both. I will be waiting to see her reaction to the hard! Honu has a light pack Hanger. Rescued from a Christmas tree that was in the garbage, Used because I found it in the drawer when looking for something to make a hanger of some kind!

Larry that is going to be a challenge any way you do it. If the wood is light color you might even want to try a very fine point India Ink pen and a small ruler. India Ink does not bleed like many markers do. To be safe you might to test on a piece of the same wood.

The wood is Cherry. Headed to "Gold Miners Camp"

Finnished up a present for the new girlfriend. 1/4 cherry, minwax cherry stain, FD polar #3, Steve Good pattern.

Without question get the Pegas replacement clamps.!!! I have been a Hawk G4 user since 2005 needed a smaller "travel " saw so I bought a used EX 16" that already had the Pegas clamps installed. Since then I rebuilt an old EX 21 for a friend, it had a broken rod. I had her order the Pegas clamps. tore the entire saw down checking every bearing ALL were dry. She loves the saw now with these clamps. My suggestion to anyone that is repairing or replacing clamps on one of the EX styles of saw to Check all of the bearings. I have no idea why her saw even started without blowing a fuse as the main pitman arm bearings were about frozen. Yes that is rust in the bearing. Ignore the allen wrench in the Pegas clamp I was adjusting the blade centering.

Just a couple comments that may or may not be relevant to the original post. First, if one is going to topcoat a project and you want to use an oil first, I would suggest using BLO (full strength or thinned) instead of Danish oil. There is no real advantage of having the slight bit of varnish in the Danish oil, if you intend to top coat anyway. The downside to plain BLO over Danish oil may be a slightly longer cure time. Most recommendations are to let it dry several days to a week before handling or top coating. Your mileage may vary. Also, depending on what you topcoat with, the oil step may also be unnecessary. The attraction of oil is that it darkens the grain, making it pop by imparting a bit of an amber tint. If you are top coating with a similar product, like varnish or poly, they already contain oil, so they will accomplish this step, without the separate oil step. Lacquer and water borne finishes go on more clear and don't have the same grain popping quality as oil, so you still may want to apply the oil first, as a colorant. Just be sure to allow the oil to cure sufficiently before applying anything over top. My preferred finish for scrolled items is sprayed shellac. It imparts a similar amber tone to the wood, accomplishing the same thing that the oil does without the extra step. It also dries very quickly, with no lasting odor. It's easy to spray and I can even get inside most frets without the excess build up that you get with heavier finishes like poly. I've never tried dipping in shellac, but I know that others on the forum have advocated that method.

I have that same problem... quite often too.. Glad you figured it out..

I went to the link you posted and you are on the right track. I am a retired Sheetmetal worker and have installed MILES of metal duct but being as cheap as I am, I made my own wyes. Had I known what little they cost I would have bought the ones you choose in your link. Finding 26 gauge 6" snap lock pipe may be a challenge. I used a brush on sealer instead of tape. Not pretty though. I ran my 6" duct along the wall , on the floor. This eliminates a lot of duct going up to the ceiling and back down to the equipment and to the dust collector. For flexible sections I used the cheap aluminum foil and wire duct. Still holding up well.

What exactly is the trouble you're having? slippage? breaking? Not getting it tight enough? Or being able to tighten the thumb screws because of the small T handles as doug is talking about.. Pegas makes a nicer blade chuck for the Ex.. I put them on mine and wouldn't ever go back to the cheap made stock blade chucks.. Have you changed the set screw and rotating pin in the end of the thumb screw? I seem to have a lot of issues with my EX-21 both the stock clamps and the Pegas clamps seems like I am always having to sand the tips down as they get worn.. Never had this issue with my DeWalt.. or the Hawks.. I at first played it off to the cheap original set.. but found that the Pegas chucks are also very fussy with wearing the tips down.. I know I saw a lot more than I did back in the DeWalt days.. but I mostly use the Hawk.. and you'd think if it was a normal wear and tare then I'd have the same thing going on with the Hawk..

I used to use spray contact cement, and to get them of, just lever the edge up a little and dribble thinners between the paper and the disk. I have since put velcro on the disk and purchase the cling back disks. Makes using various grits easy and possible.

That is beautiful Melanie. I would love to cut that out but I don't have my scroll saw. By the time I get to cut again it will be 2021.

And they look like crap! I have never let anything leave my shop without a finish on it!

Metal duct is great, although it can get a little pricey. The thin wall sewer and drain pipe (SDR35) is available from plumbing supply houses or large irrigation supply companies. Moore Supply is the one in my area. I have not found it at the big box stores. I have some templates to cut holes in walls for 6" S&D pipe if you need them. You are not that far from me (as Texas distances go).

I used 6" metal pipe for my system, Not spiral, snap lock.

I only use that knob with a newly fitted blade. It's to do with the blade not sitting in the bottom clamp exactly the same position that the previous blade did. The new blade could be 2mm too high or too low so the top arm needs adjusting.

I have also used rubbing alcohol on the set screw and wiped it on an old piece of cloth, that removed any unwanted oil left behind by a blade. Marg

Thanks for all the tips and tricks. it turns out that this issue was to do with the one blade for some reason. This particular blade had not slipped much before [many of my blades slip at first fitting, till I've fined tuned the height of the top arm, which usually takes one or two adjustments only]. Changed it for a different blade yesterday and no more slippage. The circular ridge is still very visible on my end of my set screw, and does not look worn. I will probably just crosswise sand the shank in future, but tightening the set screw works also. Bob

I had this problem on the Dewalt 788 done the sanding, changing position etc each helped for a while but it kept progressively getting worse till I changed out the clamps for new ones. Went to the Pegas clamp as it was only a few dollars more, shipping was cheaper and quicker, so far quite satisfied.

A little trick I do when sharpening tools on a grinder is to use a sharpie and color the end. Then lightly hit the edges and look to see if my grinding is at the right angle. I flatten screws of all sizes on a belt sander.

I drill appropriate sized hole in a piece of scrap 1/4" or 1/8" BBply.. drill the hole just the right size so the screws will actually thread into the wood.. thread both or all four as I do into the wood put a couple strips of wood on each end of the plywood high enough to keep the screws off the table and run my orbital sander with 100 - 150 grit paper and sand all the screws at once.. you only want to dress a minimal amount so screw the screws in the wood just about flat with the wood.. just enough to touch the sander.. Works great for me.. You could use the belt sander too in this manor.. but screwing the screws into the wood helps hold the tiny things and also helps in holding them flat so you do not round over the edges etc..

Very simple Nativity scene but I love it. I think the one I copied was actually done on a bandsaw. I think the simplicity fits well with the event it depicts. Merry Christmas everyone!

Lots of folks may not know this guy. Pretty famous in my circle. * @Paladin correctly identified him as Stan Lee. I'll post again when I finish.

This combination has been very popular this Christmas. The wreath is a part of a Steve Good pattern and is cut from 3/4 poplar. The Merry Christmas is an Alex Fox design although I cut the back layer out of 1/2 poplar to give it some heft and help it stand up more easily. The other two layers are 1/8 bb ply. Most have sold unpainted as customers wanted to get creative. This set was painted upon request. The combination came about as an idea from my wonderful wife who put them together after I cut sample pieces for her. They are all cut on my Pegas with #3 mgt blades. Be blessed.

Looks so good I'd like one!!! Your work is exceptional!!!

I am missing something. All I see is what looks like it could be a Santa hat. Fill me in please.... :+} OK Second look and Yepper.... Do see the Face................Cool Pattern...............Danny :+}

I have a pyrography machine 'Peter Childs' and find something like this that holds very fine tips probably your best bet. I believe one called RazorTip is popular in the USA but here's a page that may be of interest. https://craftandleisure.com/best-wood-burning-tools-pyrography-pens-buyers-guide-1020/

I do it all the time and never had a problem. It is called light touch. If you have a belt sander you can do it on that too. File could round over the bolt just as well.